KronosBlog

All good things...

2011-09-18T21:49:00.004+02:00

... come to an end, yet not today! What I will be doing is moving to a bigger place. Over time blogger has given a great service in sharing my rantings regarding horology on the net. As with real life itself there is a time when one outgrows his/her car, his/her home an sometimes even one's job. Today "blogger" has become too small and I feel that it is time to move on and grow beyond what this great service can offer. It has been over 5 years now and it was great, unfortunately the problem with this service is that the very same nature of being a free service limits its use for something more advanced.

There are two reasons why I have decided to move on. First; the new system allows me to post pictures in full size and resolution without compromising picture quality. If you have followed me in the past you know that the accurate representation of the material was one of my main concerns. Not only pictures but video without commercials and the ability to have the video material sent as a Podcast to iTunes, etc... The options are simply worth the trauma. Second; personally I have also decided to join a new venture, "The Watch Enthusiast". This will enable me to diversify my involvement in watches while keeping it fun and independent. The challenge to join a team implicated in something unseen in the industry (open yet fair criticism and lack of censorship) is one that I simply could not resist.

This will be my last post on this blog. From today on I will we posting on the new blog as "DFV". I will also migrate some post, provided I have the material in high-res, to TWE's Blog.

I hope to see you all there soon, and please let yourselves known... Cheers!

D.

RESSENCE "Zero Series"

2011-08-05T12:50:00.025+02:00

INTRODUCTION

These days there are very few times where you can really say that there is something "new" in horology. Whenever there is a new complication or method to display time somebody somewhere has done it before. Either directly mimicking an old invention or simply contributing to an evolution/modification of an existing complication. The reason is simple, being that watch makers are contaminated by the past. It is not only human to look to the past for inspiration but it is also a way to honor the work of countless geniuses behind it. So it is only predictable that when one first becomes seduced by horology and then goes throughout the learning process the past weighs heavily. Knowing that, understand my surprise when at last years Basel fair I came across Ressence. I recon I have made the mistake before in jumping to the haste conclusion that something unusual was indeed something new. As a result, and to cover my back, I researched (within my possibilities) as to how original this idea really was. Guess what... It actually is "really" something new! Now, the mystery remained as to how somebody that I assumed (my mistake) had gone through the classical route of horology came came up with something new and different. My first assumption was flawed since Benoît Mintiens actually did not go through the classic horological route. Instead, Benoît not being "contaminated" had the benefit in this case to open a whole new way to tell time. To display all indications on the same plane while maintaining legibility throughout. Bravo!

Needles to say I was taken by Benoît's "Zero Series" form the start. The flat-face rotating disks, front and back, together with the two enveloping sapphire glass worked an ergonomic wonder. The fixed crown and modular/configurable watch case for left handed owners was only confirmation that it was a very well throughout product. The delay/wait was a long one (although expected…) but certainly worth while. For all those fortunate enough to have one of the original "Zero Series" and have not got it yet, here is a little something for the road...

NOTE: I am having difficulty generating an acceptable video/audio file with the tools at my disposal here. Although the material is properly filmed the computer I am currently working with has little "punch" and therefore has difficulty in creating smooth video and sound. I will wait to upgrade the internal memory in the next few days before posting the video... if that doesn't do the trick I will try to find a computer with enough power to properly render the video and audio. Sorry.

NOTE 2: I have solved technical issues regarding the quality of the video. However, it seems that "YouTube" has been adding commercials on my footage and I simply will NOT stand for that. I will keep trying to find a solution to go around that, in the mean time I am debating if I should cancel my YouTube account...

FIRST IMPRESSION

Metaphysically, the first impression is that of holding the beginning of an adventure. The first chapter of a book that only 50 people around the world will be fortunate enough to own. Being part of the very first watch in the birth of a new brand can only be described as something special. Physically, the front and back sapphire glass that practically wraps around the whole watch gives an incredibly smooth tactile feeling. The first contact is so smooth that you get the feeling of a massage when you slide your fingers across the front and back sapphire glasses. Seriously, you just don't want to let go! That brings me tho the first obvious benefit and I can't help but like the fact that the watch will have very little sign of wear over a long period of time. Due to this case construction there are no exposed metal parts other than the crown or the edges of the strap fasteners that are prone to scratches. Especially those micro-scratches that inevitably appear over a period on metal bezels simply with the use/friction under a shirtsleeve. The full-plate rotor and the six screws on the back complete the design in a stunning manner. Right of the bat I can say that I am not too happy with the strap/ deployment buckle combo. I am not particularly fond of "straight" straps with no or little difference between the width at the watch case and width at the buckle. This more modern way to size straps simply falls short of class… or rather what I mean to say is that while it might look great on a Panerai Luminor I am not to keen in seeing that on more classic watches. The second part I am not to impressed by is the deployment buckle. It is a standard yet banal deployment buckle well beneath this wonderful watch. I don't know about you but this watch SCREAMS for a classic ardillon buckle that can be reversed at any time (I will reason this petition later…) However, all this is something that can easily be fixed.

Day 1: I am holding it in my hand more than on my wrist. The winding of the crown is hard even if the grip is quite acceptable. Since it is an automatic watch the issue is not that problematic should the power reserve be we longer than an overnights rest. The strap and buckle... well, let's see how the feel in a couple of days.

Day 2: Can't stop looking at it and playing with the crown to set the time over and over again. Really cool watch. At night the readout is much better than anticipated even if contrary to classic watches the Super LumiNova is applied everywhere except on the hour indices and five-minute intervals. Hmmm, interesting...

Day 3: The watch turns out to be a real conversation starter. Thank good for the iPhone App that shows how it works since setting the time over and over again to demonstrate is really getting tiresome.

Day 4: I love the back! To bad that the lugs are not immediately reversible, I would be cool to be able to wear this the other way around. Hence the need for an ardillon buckle that would permit such an action...

Day 5: Did I mention that the watch box is really something out of the ordinary? Well, I still wonder how they managed no do this thing. There is a tool supplied for the strap change... will be playing with that tomorrow.

Day 6: I just could not help myself. The strap and deployment buckle needed to go. Did not have many options on hand where I am right now but the result makes a world of difference. With a more classic strap approach there is more focus on the watch than on the strap. That works much better for me. Can't wait for an ardillon by Ressence to harmonize the whole ensemble.

Day 7: Regarding the strap changing I must confess I was not too happy with this method at first. It takes time and very good eyesight to change the strap. However, after completing my first strap change I can only see benefits to this system. You will need patience since it take longer than a standard "strap pin" but the the benefit is that unlike the classic method you are less likely to scratch or damage the watch case. As many of you know, even a skilled watchmaker will scratch the inside of a watch case when changing a strap. It is inevitable. This approach might be more laborious but it not only reduces the risk of damage considerably but also allows for a modification of the angle of the lugs for more comfort if required. There is one thing that I do recommend to Ressence... adding one set (at least) of spare gaskets and pins would be very welcomed. Even if I have managed not too loose any of these they are very small and in risk of getting blown of the table to not bee seen again, ever.

Day 8: The "twilight" effect of "tunnel-drive-through" effect looks like a party. Love it.

Day 9: Wearing the Zero Series is a real treat. Very comfortable although downward angled strap lugs (like the Panerai Radiomir) could and would make it even more comfortable.

Day 10: Sill conformable and pleasant to wear and visibility is quite good in all lighting conditions despite not having anti-glare treatment on the glass

CONCLUSION

Operation:

Seconds-stop function: yes
Date change: n/a
Alignment of hands at 12 o'clock: perfect
Alignment of chronograph hands: n/a

Readability:

Anti-reflective coating: none
Contrast Day: *****
Visibility Night: ****

Comfort

Watch Case: *****
Strap: ****
Deployment Buckle: ****
Crown: *

Finishes

Watch Case: *****
Bracelet/Strap/Buckle: *
Dial & Hands: *****
Crown: *****
Movement: n/a

Price: Aprox. 12,000 €

VERDICT

To see the verdic please click here...

F.P. Journe "Centigraphe Souverain"

2011-06-28T10:37:00.012+02:00

INTRODUCTION

What can I say? To be honest I feel that I should spare you my blabber and jump straight to the video. However, a proper introduction is in order. The "Centigraphe" has been open debate and discussion on many forums regarding its ability to indeed measure or not 1/100 of a second. Obviously for those not foreign to math there is something that does not add up when you have a 21,600 v/h (3hz.) movement that is meant to split 1 second into 100. Now the challenge here is how to explain how this is achieved without going into cryptic technical lingo. First let me explain that in order to rigorously split 1 second into 1/100 of a second you need 360,000 v/h, and that is equivalent to a 50hz. movement. Technologically we are NO-WAY-NEAR those figures. Actually the highest rated RELIABLE movements are and have been for the last 40-something years a solid 5hz. There have been developments lately where speeds have been increased to over 10hz. yet these are very doubtful (at least to me) over the sort-run. One of the main problems of higher speeds is the size of the balance wheel. The faster it goes, the smaller it has to be. The smaller it is, the harder it is to adjust and therefore be precise... So in other words, all that you gain on one side you loose on the other. Personally I very much enjoy "slow" movements with HUGE balance wheels that keep me hypnotized when I look at them from time to time. Personally I see no such emotion in an ultrafast micro balance wheel. To be honest, all that speed is really not necessary and improvements should be made in the longevity of the materials and precision of the manufactured parts instead. There are much more benefits to be gained here pushing quality instead of speed.

Now back to our 100th of a second Chronograph. As you might have guessed (or not if you do the math) a 3hz. movement will be able to split a second into six parts. The "Centigraphe" is a Foudroyante that does just that (like all other Foudroyante chronographs if I might add). The difference here is that the Centigraphe can stop the counter between any of the six 6th of a second transitions. The scale is set to 100 increments that the hand of the Foudroyante can be stopped at any time. So, yes, in a way IT IS and IS NOT a 100th of a second chronograph. The only drawback is that the hand of the Foudroayante remains a bit longer in its six pre-marked positions (as you will be able to see in the video) and the chances are that you will stop the hand on one of these is higher the the rest. If you play long enough you will see indeed that the hand of the Foudroyante CAN actually stop anywhere on the 100 marked spots. Enjoy...

VIDEO

NOTE: I have, and will in the future, deliberately skip any references as to the "chronometrical" aspect of the tested watch/es. The reason being that such test are futile, misleading and either unfair to the brand or the owner. Should a "particular" watch be deficient in its function that does not mean that all are. The same is true the other way around, if one works that does not mean that they ALL work. However, references about known issues with specific movements or a faulty after-sales service will NOT be left out.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

WOW!

The box is beautiful but serves like most others little purpose after the initial "contact"

A very elegant watch despite its quite aggressive dial design

The crown is very easy to grip and handle as it should be for a manual

Movement finish is impeccable and in accord with the level of watch but I am missing at least one inward angle

The ardillon buckle is in platinum matching the case (not always a given in the trade)

The start/stop button is easy to grip and operate but feels a bit "flimsy"

PICTURES

Front:

Back:

Wrist:

CONCLUSION

Operation:
Seconds-stop function: n/a
Date change: n/a
Alignment of hands at 12 o'clock: PERFECT
Alignment of chronograph hands: PERFECT
Readability:
Anti-reflective coating: none
Contrast Day: ***
Visibility Night: none

Comfort

Watch Case: *****
Strap: *****
Ardillon Buckle: ****
Crown: *****

Finishes

Watch Case: *****
Bracelet/Strap/Buckle: *****
Dial & Hands: *****
Crown: *****
Movement: *****

Price: Aprox. 55,110 €

VERDICT

Few watches give the impression of being something special the very first moment you hold them. Wether it is the extraordinary finish or the heft of the platinum case combined with a solid gold movement, the Centigraphe transmits a feeling of superlative right from the start. Much like a dark grey Aston Vantage rolling slowly down Bond Street after short rain shower, it just transmits luxury and more important, taste like only few other items. An F. P. Journe has no need to be oversized or laced with diamonds to make a statement, and nothing makes a bigger statement than something that does not need to shout. Discretion and a strict abidance by it's horological philosophy makes Journe a joy to own. No bells nor whistles, just pure watchmaking.

It has been 3 weeks now with the Centigraphe and despite all the discussion regarding it's capability or not to measure accurately the 100th of a second being only a 3hz. movement, it is a stunning piece of work. In the end, who cares if it accurately measures the 100th of a second? It's not the point. I can't shake the feeling that all this discussion is distracting the general "connoisseurs" from what is a very impressive piece of craftsmanship. Quite frankly, I got this piece for many reasons and it being able to accurately measure the 100th part of a second had not ever crossed my mind... Furthermore, I would find it quite intriguing should there be somebody out there that did. Hell, if anybody thought they had the reflexes to make this complication really count... what a retard. Anybody with the need for such precision would most likely turn to sensor triggers and electronics, but definitely NOT an idiot's index finger. So, to that aspect I consider the matter closed.

One of my first surprises at first contact with the Centigraphe was the rubberized back and sides of the strap. I was not acquainted with this strap version/model and it seemed a bit awkward at first, mainly because I expected a full crocodile front and back strap. Plus, the day that I picked it up it was over 30º Celsius. Rubber is not my favorite choice for the summer except for when you are at the beach. After only one week I can only recommend this version, the reason being: the weight of the watch itself, remember platinum and massive gold movement, make it a bit heavy on a leather strap. Heavy watches on leather straps tend to be uncomfortable. You either wear it tight or it will wear you out over time. Now, having the extra grip of the rubber on the inside of the strap fixes that issue completely. It helps maintain the watch in place without the need to "strangle" your wrist. This is especially welcomed in the summer. Almost forgot; the buckle is in Platinum. Normal you would say, but not all prestige power-houses match ardillon buckles or deployment buckles to the case. It is sometimes so that platinum watches get white gold buckles or titanium watches get steel buckles. For instance, I recall that AP's "Montoya" in titanium was fitted with a steel deployment buckle...

Operating the watch, especially the chronometer takes a bit to get used to since it's not a classic chronograph disposition. Over time you become aware that this alternative to place the pusher is actually better than the classic chronograph pushers placement. This "rocking-lever" has excellent grip and is easy to operate due to the placement, however it feels a bit flimsy or loose. The crown is an absolute treat to use for setting of winding the watch. The grip of the crown is simply perfection. Unfortunately the winding has no slipping differential and could be easily damaged if wound with heft. Winding has to be done in a careful manner, too careful for my taste since the winding resistance is harder than average. There are no references as to power reserve or winding state so that you can stop before you reach critical. The lack of a power reserve is also a negative point in this case, mainly because there is quite a large disparity between the actual power reserve when the chronograph is activated or not. Mind you, it is a Foudroyante and it should not be left running without purpose. Measuring my tea or eggs four times in one winding circle (about 80-hours) will not influence the length much. Rather, it is a matter of "completing" the complication.

I admit I have exceptional eye sight (and I am not bragging here...) so visibility issues are not really a problem for me. When I rate visibility I try to be as picky as I possibly can. Especially after crossing the 40's barrier things tend to go worse in the eyesight department. The reading of the chronograph I found easy but I admit that a regular chronograph is easier to interpret. The detail of the dial is simply breathtaking as you can see from the pictures. The contrast between the hours and minutes is good enough yet the front glass is not anti-glare treated on the outside. This attracts a lot of reflections especially on bright summer days. Mind you, I would not like this watch with anti-glare treatment since it would loose some of its flare.

As a hole I would place the Centigraphe in the section of VERY special superlative chronographs. In that section I count; Lange's "DoubleSplit", Richard Mille's "RM004v2", Jaeger leCoultre's "ExtremeLab 2", Patek Philippe's "5950" and possibly AP's "Carbon Concept 1". A wonderful piece of work by F.P. Journe, yes Sir...

Patek Philippe: Regulator "5235G"

2011-06-27T22:08:00.007+02:00

It has been a while since I posted something from Patek. The reason being that there is a lot of rumors regarding the dismisal of hand finishes in all movements except for the very BIG pieces, the blatant manipulation of auctions and an alleged overlooked poor/irregular finish amongst the same watches further down the line. Well, all these things remain to be proven and until then they are just rumors. What is proof is that Patek know their trade and while the rather steep crisis hit most head-on in the luxury business they have managed to remain on top. Could this be the reason for these latest attacks? Maybe, but leaving all these battles aside I would like to remind everybody that Patek is still the "Ambassador" of the Swiss watch industry to the world. So a bit of caution is advised. Anyway, should any of these rumors be true, nobody will be able to shut me up...

Well, on to the latest addition to their collection, and it is quite an unusual one. Who would have though, a regulator?!? Quite a surprise if you ask me and surely few saw this one coming. This "baby" comes with the latest Gyro and SpiroMaxes not forgetting that it is fitted with their window display annual calendar. The movement has a similar look to the 240 but slightly more attractive. Can't really critisize that at a list price of 36,150€, mostly when considering the garbage offered out there by others, this piece a real steal. Regardless, I have mixed feelings about this watch.

At a first glance, I am somewhat confused with the overall design. Is it just me or does this look like anything else, but NOT a Patek? The angular watch case, slim straight hands, clean aseptic dial... Don't know about you but to me this is closer to NOMOS than to a Patek. On top of that, what is the point of adding the annual calendar when it almost disappears in the dial? Not a good idea is the relatively simple and uneventful dial. So simple that, I really hate to say this but, as I am writhing this right now you can bet your but that there is a counterfeit mogul somewhere in China nailing this sucker on the fly! By the time the first 5235G is delivered there will we about 20,000 cheap copies for sale at your local and favourite counterfeit dealer. Lovely.

In any case, it is an interesting piece of kit if you overlook the somewhat lacking Patek DNA. The proportions are modern at 41mm and with slightly over 10mm in thinness you can bet it is comfortable enough under any shirt. I would have liked to see some more "spunk" in this piece, but taste is personal. No matter, if you like this dial design you should be aware that this should be a difficult piece to source the next few months. Good luck.

10-DAYS: Glashütte Original "Sixties PanoDate"

2011-06-19T17:39:00.032+02:00

INTRODUCTION

Many already are familiar with Glashütte Original and possibly the "Sixties" models. I have always wanted to have something that my grandfather could/would have worn, yet the standard sizes in the 60's ranged from 32mm to 36mm for gentlemen's watches make them just look ridiculous on me. The Sixties by GO has brought that look back and with the PanoDate at 42mm, straight to my wrist. Never expected to ever own a Glashütte but I could not resist. Here is the large date version...

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Perfect and "to-the-point" packaging. No unnecessary extras but a very useful and well thought travel/safe box.

Surprisingly well finished watch case at this price point with two convex sapphire glasses, front and back.

Exceptional leather strap quality and finish.

Very well finished and designed ardillon buckle.

The movement finish is well executed but a bit "coarse" at this level. Could be finer, especially on the edges of the bridges and peripheral bit on the main-plate.

Embodies the "Sixties" spirit to PERFECTION.

10-DAYS...

Day 1: Very well proportioned and comfortable to wear. The dial is very clean and pleasant The large date is well placed and proportioned on the dial. Nice piece!

Day 2: First night with the Sixties and although the Super LumiNova is present it is not especially bright. The hours and minutes are very similar in length and position on the hands. I wonder if designers ever test the placement of the luminous material at all? One thing is to look at it fully charged in the day time when you are lucid... another is to wakeup at 4:00 in the morning and have to concentrate to discern the actual time.

Day 3: As mentioned before the finis of the movement although perfectly executed and completely scratch free could be a bit finer. My eyes tend to go to the edges of the movement were the finish gives the impression to be a bit "raw".

Day 4: The front and back sapphire glasses make this a very smooth and comfortable watch. You can't get caught up in anything since everything about this watch is very well rounded and polished. The "plexi" look of the front sapphire is very well executed and together with the dial really work the "sixties" theme to perfection.

Day 5: The more I look at it the more I think they made a great job on the outside. The rear convex sapphire glass is very pleasant to the touch. To make this watch perfect it should have been manual and with a slightly more advanced movement finish. It is really starting to get hot here... I am thinking of putting it on a NATO strap. Hmmm, let's see what do I have in my strap arsenal...

Day 6: I thought I mention this; It has been a long, I mean LONG, time since I have had a hand assembled watch with hands so well aligned (with the added challenge of the hands being so long and thin). Here I challenge any that read this to check their watches how well aligned they are. The procedure is simple... put on your reading glasses, align the hour hand at exactly 12 o'clock (or preferably another hour not to block the view) to the nearest micron and now check the minute hand. Is it it at 12 o'clock, or several minutes past? Here is a picture to illustrate;

Day 7: Today it is 40º outside my doorstep. Finally equipped the Sixties with some summer clotting... Don't know about you but it looks surprisingly well on a NATO.

Day 8: The night visibility is a bit better than anticipated at first although it could be better. I do not understand why the Super LumiNova was not applied to the whole length of the hands. I don't think it would have influenced in a negative way where the design is concerned.

Day 9: Sourced a 22mm Glashütte Original buckle to fit it to the NATO strap. Looks great. I also removed the excess strap by sniping it away with a pair of scissors and melting the end with a lighter to prevent unraveling. Not difficult but recommend a bit of practice with the discarded piece before you go ahead with the good piece of strap. I do not remember where I got this particular NATO but it should not be too dificoult to source if you google "NATO STARPS".

Nice option but unfortunately the original buckle is not available in 22mm. Too bad, the original 20mm buckle is much nicer aesthetically and finish wise.

Day 10: Ten days are over and although I do not consider this as a "summer" watch (only waterproof to 3 ATM) it was quite a joy to wear. Very comfortable and pleasant to wear.

CONCLUSION

Operation:
Seconds-stop function: yes
Date change: at 00:02
Alignment of hands at 12 o'clock: PERFECT
Readability:
Anti-reflective coating: yes
Contrast Day: ****
Visibility Night: ***

Comfort

Watch Case: ****
Strap: ****
Ardillon Buckle: ****
Crown: ****

Finishes

Watch Case: *****
Bracelet/Strap/Buckle: *****
Dial & Hands: ****
Crown: **
Movement: **

Price: Aprox. 7,050€

VERDICT

I must say that I was quite impressed with the look and feel of the Glashütte Original "Sixties PanoDate". The case construction and dial finish really manage to convey that "sixties" feeling with modern day quality and construction. The added bonus of having it in 42mm enables it to be worn on medium to large size wrists, unseen so far in these genre of watches. The dial and hands are not what I would call complicated to make but they are so well executed that they are beyond reproach. The hands are aligned to perfection (other more prestigious brands seem to have trouble with that...). Very much like the movement, that I would rate as having mediocre finishes but they are executed to perfection without any signs of scratches, dented or damaged screew-heads, no oil stains and very minimal particles of dust. The strap seemed of way over average quality and the ardillon buckle very well finished and designed. The buckle gives the impression of being milled out of a piece of metal and not stamped. That is a very welcomed detail since many watches that are three times the cost have buckles that look like they where made in a Vietnamese "sweat-shop" with a bored looking individual pulling on a leaver while looking bored with a cigarette stump logged in the corner of his mouth... Here you go... 1,000 buckles... next... Get the picture?

The only complaint I can make about this watch is that the crown seems a little awkward. It is a bit too prominent/tall and considering it is an automatic it is not absolutely necessary to have maximum grip on the crown. For some reason the finish of the crown does not look or go well with the watch. I do not know if it is the size, the polished surface or the design but something bothers me about it. If feels a bit like when you get a replacement that is not "quite" the original.

A minor issue would be the 3ATM (20 meters) waterproof rating. It is a bit low for todays standards and could be slightly better yet I do not consider this a summer watch so this is a minor issue as long as it is at least shower proof.

Overall, the Sixties is a very well balanced and finished product on the outside, which in the end is about 99% of your interaction with it. But, I do believe that at slightly over 7,000€ the finishes of the movement deserve either to be more refined or a 10% to 15% price drop would make this a much more competitive product. I found myself yearning for the same version (42mm with the large date) in a manual wound movement. That would have been perfect...

THE WATCH ENTHUSIAST

2011-05-11T10:13:00.007+02:00

At last the application that all watch lovers/aficionados/collectors have been waiting for! The Watch Enthusiast...

A non-commercial version of a watch guide has surely been long awaited by many. Apart from the ratings and opinions (to each their own...) the sheer amount of the watch database supplied here is simply staggering. The initial release has over 600 watch models (dials and metals only count as one watch), over 30 brands and an estimate of over 3,000 high-quality pictures. Every several weeks a dozen brands with their complete collections (provided they are above a score of 50) will be added from here until sumer to roughly end up with well over 1,500 watches and 150 brands. Since only watches that rate over 50 overall score will be featured, what ever is on this guide can be considered as an "over average" product. There will be an estimate of about 10,000 high-quiality pictures in total considering different dial colors and case metals. All these watches can be filtered by aproximate price, complication, ratings, etc... Nothing in the watch world of this magnitude has reached the iPad yet.

Initially "The Watch Enthusiast" was meant to be only a printed hardcover book/guide to be issued annually in the pure "Michelin" guide tradition. The first printed issue will appear next year as "TWE's 888" and will feature only the best 888 watches of the year. The iPad application was created in response to the potentially overwhelming database of watches that would or could not be featured in the printed version.

Ratings are passed by panelists that are "specialized" on several brands. These ratings before being published can be vetoed by other panelists and once published the brands have the possibility themselves to veto these ratings by presenting allegations if they so desire. The criteria are transparent and as objective as possible. The ratings are subject to change if need be, nothing is for ever. For instance if a relatively new movement has "youth" issues in a negative manner or in a positive manner if these issues are resolved over time.

The ratings and database will only be available through the iPap application (iPhone and Android are on its way...) and the printed annual guide.

iTunes store...
The Watch Enthusiast...

10-DAYS: HALDA "Space Discovery"

2011-04-07T09:00:00.042+02:00

INTRODUCTION

UPDATE: As I suspected at the beginning (and subsequently confirmed by Mr. Sandström this morning) the movement is a caliber by A. Shield (originally AS 1920). It has been heavily improved and modified by Mr. Andersen as you will se in pictures that I will post in the coming days. This movement is the "father" for the High Beat movements as GP, Zenith El Primero and then also the one used in the Daytona. It is quite a watch "connoisseur" movement.

10-DAYS

Day 1: Quite impressive feel. I find myself thinking about the production nightmare it must be to make components, in this case the two modules, to fit so perfectly in the watch bracket. The finish of the case and integration of the module "eject" buttons in the bracket is phenomenal. Can't stop pushing the buttons... The space module looks great in the dark.

Day 2: Today is the turn of the mechanical module. My first impression is that it is much heavier on the wrist than the space module. Impeccable finish, built like a tank. The dial is elegant and offers very good visibility under any condition. Clean finish and a lot of depth perception with very large indexes. I am hypnotized by the elegant swaying of the seconds hand. I wish it were just a little bit longer in order to appreciate it even more.

Day 3: I have noticed that the Super LumiNova on the mechanical module shines in a bluish tone and not green. Visibility at night is very good with the LumiNova on hands and indices properly placed.

Day 4: I find myself wearing the mechanical module during the day time and the space module more at night. I am surprised since most of my focus initially was on the space module. The mechanical module turns out to be more attractive than I thought plus I have the confront of NOT having to press any buttons to read the time. Even if it is annoying to have to always press the buttons to see the time on the space module I doubt I would have it any other way. Performance wise, here they key is saving as much power as possible. Also, the full blackened screen does look very appealing...

Day 5: Already encountered the first "conceptual" problem. It is very difficult to alternate often between both modules and wear them on a day to day basis. The reason being that the mechanical module does not get enough winding if you switch often between both modules. The mechanical module stopped at 5:07 this morning. Right now, there is no viable way to wear both at the same time and keep the automatic module wound. Either choose the mechanical module often and the space module on occasions.

Day 6: I have had some time to play with the space module and the different functions. There is no doubt in my mind that this takes the X-33 concept several steps ahead. You can see from the functions that it was developed in close collaboration with somebody that "really" was going to use this for some really serious stuff. The timer function is my most used so far but my favorite is the countdown. A really cool function to set deadlines...

I am very surprised at the mechanical module. Maybe because I did not expect much of it simply because my focus was mainly on the space module. Who would have known...

Day 7: The alarm turns out to be quite loud when off the wrist. On the down side the sound is considerably muffled in contact with the wrist, as with all digital-alarm watches with the exception of the X-33 that has a double back casing. You will most likely not hear it on a busy street but probably under normal conditions. Omega's system allows for a VERY loud chime while having the watch on the wrist but has the disadvantage of accumulating dirt in the lateral openings as well as a quite bad water tightness rating for a sports activity watch.

Day 8: I don't think I have worn a digital watch for such long time since my first in the 80's... Hell, it is going to be hard moving to the next watch in a few days. Unbelievable.

IMPORTANT: If you are planning on wearing the watch primarily or initially on the Kevlar strap I firmly suggest that you have it fitted with the Velcro strap straight from the factory. It is not easy to put on the watch since you have little space between the leather and the watch case. The operation is not terribly difficult but requires some skill, especially if you do not want to scratch the inside or back of the watch case.

Day 9: Back to the mechanical module... Still intrigued about the upgrades and modifications made by Mr. Andersen. That deserves a future post with detailed explanations. Until then, some pictures...

Day 10: My Last day... nothing to report. Except that tomorrow I am ordering a couple more of these Kevlar/Velcro straps. They are fantastic and as with many things I would hate not to have a supply should these run out.

CONCLUSION:

The test has come to an end and my impression has been quite positive. There is some room for improvement in future models yet the "Space Discovery" is very, very impressive. Build quality is outstanding and unusual considering the price. The concept is innovative and fun (little of that in the watch world today under 10k...). The mechanical module reached much beyond my expectations and the space module gives a feeling of "high-end" unknown in a digital watch to date.
On the downside the visibility of the space module needs some tweaking (in broad daylight there are too many reflections) and the mechanical module is a bit heavy when on the Kevlar/Velcro strap. Personally I think that the steel bracelet is redundant and is penalized by an "average" deployment clasp. The bracelet needs to feel "tighter" and would benefit immensely from a micro-adjustable clasp.

The price is the real stunner here, especially after the latest hikes during the last 12 months. At 8,800€ it is much more than just competitive. When you look at the final result and take the price in consideration you can't but help feeling that you are getting a free ride somewhere in here. I guess that cutting two "middle" men has its advantages, not only cutting the final price but also controlling discounts. However, growth with this commercial strategy is immediate at first but limited at best in the long run. For now I can only congratulate HALDA for this first "journey" and can only hope that there will be many more to come.

CHECK LIST (mechanical module):

Seconds-stop function: yes
Date change: at 00:01
Alignment of hands at 12 o'clock: perfect
Readability/Visibility day: *****
Readability/Visibility night: *****

White/Blue Super LumiNova

Dial and hands finish: *****
Visible movement finish: ***
Watch case finish/construction: *****
Bracelet: **
Strap/Velcro: *****
Deployment buckle: n/a
Comfort: ****

Price: *****

I have already reviewed the HALDA "Space Discovery" in a previous post. You can take a look at it further down.

HALDA...

NEW: 10-day test drive

2011-04-07T08:00:00.006+02:00

At last I have decided to go video and start a 10-day test drive/assessment for watches. This new format will begin with a video introduction of the watch followed by a 10-day "test drive" and finished by the conclusions of the tested watch. I am not too keen on video, especially listening to myself. But then again, who does? (In the future there might be no audio comments at all, only subtitles. This will also considerably reduce the length of the video material) I guess that the format will need some tweaking so please bare with me.

This is how the test will develop initially;

Video:
- Introduction
- Packaging
- Functions

10-day test:
- Small, day to day comments on wearability and general use

Conclusion:
- Pictures
- Check list

I will not be checking for precision or mention possible defects. The reason being that, one example does not and should not be used to judge the whole series. For instance if the watch being currently tested has exceptional precision that should NOT mean that all do and vice-versa. This test in only based on a superficial day to day assessment of a product. Things that mater in this test are legibility. comfort, easy of use, visible finishes, proper alignment of the hands, etc...

In order to keep the format interesting I will try to mix the type of watch as much as possible. Some like sport watches while others prefer more classical dress watches. The watches chosen will be either uncommon, or recently introduced. There is no point in conducting such a test on a 10 year old Submariner.

All the watches are either owned by myself, somebody close, have been bought by "The Watch Enthusiast" or have been loaned by the brand to conduct this specific test. No presents are accepted and the critiques will NOT be censured.

Enjoy!

Jaeger leCoultre: SIHH 2011

2011-01-31T23:58:00.012+01:00

As it is by now tradition, Jaeger at the SIHH, presents very interesting novelties in all their price ranges. Pretty much like in previous editions of the fair there was something for everybody this years too. Oddly, the presentation that did not shine as much (rather disappointed) was the somewhat "meager" offering at the Reverso Anniversary lineup. Don't get me wrong, the Tribute piece is a extraordinarily elegant an well balanced piece while the repeater is simply stunning... But what happened in between these two price points? I do not know about you, but I am missing quite a couple of complications in larger and thinner Reverso cases. (At first I thought they where where keeping them for last!) Regardless, let's get on with it.

A long awaited and eagerly anticipated by vintage aficionados was undoubtedly the "Deep Sea". As with the "Tribute to Polaris", the Deep Sea takes the replica motif to the extreme. Actually, you could say that they might have gone too far. As a collectors item it is surely meant to join the cabinet next to the Polaris. As a watch, I must say that considering the materials used, techniques and features I can only state that the price is well beyond what it should be. No date, a fixed painted bezel, polycarbonate glass, a somewhat skimpy 40mm (but true to the original) case construction and a purposely "muffled" sound to remain true to the replica. All that at a price of a whopping 9,500€. The truth is that the times have caught up with Jaeger on this one. They have not gone completely nuts since the price is somewhat coherent with the other Memovox lineup. What happened is that back when the Deep Sea was produced (not forgetting that since then Jaeger has evolved as a brand) the comparative price point at that time is closer to the equivalent of 3,000€ today, and not 9,000€. Hence there is a disparity in quality received for the money. Yet, for a collector the opportunity to have a brand new Deep Sea might/could be well worth the extra 6k. Both are limited; 959 for the world edition and 359 for the U.S./Boutique edition.

There will be two versions, the regular Limited Edition (up on top) and a U.S. version (down here) than can be purchased exclusively in the U.S. or boutiques around the world. Originally the Deep Sea was released in the US under the "leCoultre" brand since because of legal issues they could not use their full name and "Jaeger" had to be left out. Personally I choose the U.S. version. It just looks more "vintage" despite being busier on the dial. Even if the high price could be a deterrent (as well as being a bit small for a sports activity watch with 40mm) this one could be the a piece to consider.

As described before the "Tribute to Reverso" is quite a piece. Perfect size, impeccable proportions, elegant, well balanced, comfortable and above all iconic.

This Tribute will fit medium to large size wrists. The price is going to be just north of 5,000€ a bit steep but probably pre-adjusted for the several upcoming price hikes due to the Swiss Frank going through the roof and ever rising gold prices. That is a problem that those in EU countries will feel in their wallets in no time soon. Anyway, not much more can be said since seeing it in the flesh is well worth a little detour. As with most Reversos there are two versions, steel and rose gold. Rose gold limited to 500 units and mesmerizing enamel version limited to 100 pieces.

The crown jewel of this year is the Reverso repeater "a Rideao". What a stunner! Apart from doing away with that ugly classic repeater trigger this Reverso is actually smaller than the Gyro 2 or the Triptyque. Unfortunately, this Reverso was only to been seen as a prototype and god knows I am not for judging according to prototypes. What I can say is that the system to arm the repetition is quite more pleasant and less "fiddly" than the classic trigger. Finishes, as with all high-end pieces by Jaeger, will be beyond reproach. I will not give more details until I have a production model in my hands. Although I must admit that from a distance the piece looks very promising.

Apart from the stars the Ultra Thin Moon is also a piece to be taken into consideration, like the new Compressor ceramic chrono and the new version of the Navy Seals chrono. Unfortunately these pieces will be presented at a later stage and official pictures will not be released until then. I guess that leaving a little for later will keep the specialized press occupied. I see a strategy to present stuff in the end of March perhaps to steal some of the Basel World's show. The last five years at Jaeger have been at such a competitive push that once the pace has been normalized the presentation seemed a bit gray. However, it is simply impossible to sustain such a level of developments for that many years. Sooner or later that could be the very reason of your downfall. Consolidating and reducing the number of models should be a primary concern in these days especially for manufactures with over 1100 different references in their catalogue.

URWERK "UR-110"

2011-01-23T11:12:00.009+01:00

This is the first departure from the 103 series. The long awaited bridge between the 103 and the 202 not only in price but in concepts as well. A bit awkward and aggressive at first but surprisingly comfortable and well balanced once you get closer to it. The new display orientation makes a whole of sense with a shirt on. Pretty much like MB & F "HM2" or F.P. Journe's philosophy where the time is displayed on the far right of the dial, the piece that usually happens to stick out. A surprisingly confortable and convenient wear.

The depth and three dimensional aspect of the dial is accentuated by the silver finish of this piece. Unlike the black URWERKs the details of the finishes are much more present here. The bottom of the display has the 5 year service meter, a day night indicator and what is (except for the CC1) the fists time a regular production URWERK has a seconds hand. The rear has the two turbines that dampen an excessive speed of the rotor but with no possibility to adjust the speed of rotation. The function of these two turbines is more that one of protecting the movement from damage rather than controlling the winding as it does on the UR-202. The construction of the case is no picnic either. The finishes and details go beyond most watch cases to date. The angles and crevasses are machined to perfection, almost too clinical. The crown with a built in lever is exceptionally easy to operate. As with all URWERKs it is real treat to set the time since the smoothness of the crown is one of Felix's secret emphasis. To tell you the truth I suspect that this is a detail that most watch lovers secretly enjoy.

The way the time is displayed is a hybrid method between the classic satellite of the 103 and the flipping dice of the 200 series. Since a picture is worth a thousand words, I take it that a movie is worth a thousand pictures... so in that spirit I have uploaded this little video for you. Enjoy!

As much as I have mixed feelings, I am certain that in no time this could very well be one of, if not the most popular URWERK to date. I must admit that after wearing the 110 and putting my beloved 103.05 back on felt... a bit "blend". Once most 103 fans get used to the more aggressive, more important, modern lines of the UR-110 it will be a reference for future models. Expect a black version soon and variants. Black will make it more mysterious but you will loose the depth of the the silver finish. Since there will be only 55 of these made I suggest haste when going to your dealer. The price is not fixed yet but it will be positioned at around 85,000$ which is between the 103 and 202. Considering the case, movement, complexity, functions (especially the very appreciated 5-year service indicator) I would consider this one very closely. I put this one amongst the best 3 of this year's Geneva fair.

URWERK...

SIHH-GTE 2011

2011-01-23T10:45:00.005+01:00

This year has been relatively short at the SIHH for me. Hectic and with a cold it was not easy yet the whole visit could be described as; "short but sweet". The general feel was a bit "grayish" in general with much less ostentatious pieces as well as trumpets announcing "the" watch of the century... Things have been much more down to earth than previous years much to the disappointment of news-hungry watch enthusiasts. To be honest, I think it is for the better. Most presented pretty much that which was expected; A larger Offshore from AP (plus a horrendous oversized contraption), another replica by Jaeger, another Zeitwerk by Lange, a couple of potential collectors pieces by Panerai and a very surprising "dee-blinging" by Roger Dubuis. The later was probably the most interesting development.

After the monotony of the SIHH you could say that the GTE was "almost" more interesting than the SIHH this year. Where it not for a few stunningly tasteless contraptions, one could even say that the GTE was a better show. Ressence and Speake-Marin where undoubtedly some of the few worth stopping and taking a look at and there was one that I thought completely through me off... HD3's "Slide" was certainly an unconventional solution amongst what is considered "Haute Horologerie". But guess what? I actually liked it! As a tecy and gadget lover that is...

Anyway, during these next days I will be bloging the most interesting pieces one by one. Stay tuned.

A. Favre & Fils "Phoenix 10.1"

2010-12-04T19:39:00.010+01:00

Here is an interesting development, A. Favre & Fils have just jumped the scene with the "Phoenix 10.1 and the 10.2. What?!? You have never heard of them? Well, neither have I. Despite the need to legitimate a brand by pasting together several generations of completely unknown watchmakers, the product in itself is quite noteworthy. Unlike many, for me the past only counts as a memory. If the present does not cut it the past will not take you very far in my book. A. Lange is a perfect example of a newly founded modern manufacture that are obsessed with reconstructing their past. Surprisingly, while they have all the recognition from watch enthusiasts around the world, the are still going out of their way to dig in a past to find a legitimacy. A legitimacy that everybody agrees they have forged themselves through hard work since their re-birth. What is most ironic is that the "old" A. Lange was not even close to the level that the "new" A. Lange is in the watch industry today. Anyway, back to the product at hand...

While the front/face needs some work, I must confess that I am quite taken by the back. Very impressive. From the pictures presented we have quite a calibre here. The two barrels at 28,800 alternations could deliver a 5-day power reserve yet it has been cut down to slightly over three, to ensure a linear torque delivery over these 80+ hours. The right move I believe. More than average run'o the mill finishes and a very pleasant architecture. The twin barrels in the rear (that remind me of Jaeger's Duometre or some of the latest A. Lange models) make the behind of this piece very, very sexy. As with all watches I have not held in my hand, my valuation is only based upon what I see. What I see here I like. If I have the chance to see the Phoenix 10.1 at the next Geneva show I will be posting a complete report. This one has certainly awoken my interest.

At the first glance, the rear is stunningly exquisite. I must say that I am sold. Especially the rear power reserve that I am particularly fond of, is very well integrated in the rear. The engravings on the edges are properly placed and well balanced. The case and crown are classic but different enough to not resemble anything else and give a sense of identity. The proportions are well balanced at 41mm wide and 11mm thick yet one millimeter less on the thickness and possibly one millimeter wider would have probably give it a more streamlined/elegant impression.

The face here is where I think that there should be more work done. For some reason it just does not work for me. It is just too blend and the open windows for the date are a bit difficult. On top of that, the circular brushed flat face with very simple indices reminds me of a desk clock that belongs in an office of the early 70's. The hour and minute hands I like but the central second seems a bit in the way. I understand that most people like to have large second hands, but on a watch of this magnitude it should be either non-obtrusive, as a small seconds on the side or simply not present.

All that said, the idea of this date display is not completely wrong and as a new way to tell the day it is very welcome. However, I feel that for it to work it should be taken "several" steps further, either much more aggressive or much more classical. Staying in-between will yield a blend result similar to the look of the latest "Maurice Lacroix" lineup. Since I suspect that the price tag will be "slightly" above those, there might be a problem in passing the message of this rather striking piece. The back and front at this moment do not transmit the same message. In a way it has the very same shortcomings as the H. Moser. For those that such as myself love beautiful movements over everything, I would like to remind you that 99.99% of the time what you see is the front. Watchmakers tend to forget that sometimes. If you neglect that... Houston, we have a problem.

What is quite odd is that their site is quite pleasant and well conceived. Very unusual for the industry. Actually, I just had to go through Roger DuBuis' site and I am still feeling sick. Their site feels like taking LSD while sitting in a roller coaster next to a hairy Bulgarian drag queen performing a Brazilian bikini wax. Very unsettling. On the other hand the A. Favre & Fils site is worth a little detour. Enjoy.

A. Favre & Fils...

At last!

2010-11-19T17:42:00.003+01:00

Let me tell you, it was about time. Soooo many years talking about the singularity of the Speedmaster saga (unfortunately more the past and less the future...) and not owning a Speedy has been going on for too long. No more excuses, I have finally remedied that shortcoming and re-inserted a Speedmaster in my collection with an "Apollo XI".

I almost forgot how elegant this watch is. A real classic that thanks to fait is still around (not reeeealy like the original but close enough). I guess a little is better than nothing. A very refreshing watch. No nonsense, no crap, just a classic manual chrono. It feels like being barefoot on the beach. Simple.

I regret having sold several of these in the past to be honest and a version with the sapphire back and front could be a great everyday watch. Looking at the insane escalation in prices for these last months these Speedmasters are almost a bargain together with another classic, the Submariner (no date) by Rolex.

Omega...

10 DAYS!

2010-11-16T16:20:00.001+01:00

Many times I have thought about my dependance on watches and if it is really true that in "theory" we do not need watches on our wrist today. These doubts came about at a friendly dinner when while discussing our favorite subject, horology, one of the gentleman made us aware that most of the times we, watch nuts, looked at the watch yet did not read the time. Hmmm, interesting and probably true. It is true that in current times there are watches everywhere; on your computer, in your car, your mobile, the street, friends... hell, my oven has a clock! On top of that most of these are adjusted to the atomic time. They are readily available everywhere and are likely to be more precise than even the Tourbillon you might have on your wrist. In theory we would not need to wear any watches at all... well, in theory that is. I went on to trying a small experiment. 10 days without a watch. Here is how it went;

Day 1: I am surprised I started this foolish tests at all. I have checked my empty wrist once but no major nuisance in not wearing a watch.

Day 2: I am sort of relieved not to wear a watch since I have been doing some mowing around the house and it is very likely I would have scratched it numerous times. Mind you, it is Sunday and I am not really in need to know the time at all.

Day 3: Out in the real world... No big deal, but I am starting to get annoyed at having to take out my phone all the time to check the time.

Day 4: I am mostly in front of the computer today and the time is in the upper right corner. No problems but I keep glancing at my naked wrist from time to time. I am starting to experience a "light" withdrawal syndrome.

Day 5: Taking out my phone out of my pocket to check the time is really stating to get on my nerves. In my head I am starting to think that 5 days is enough and maybe I could strap my URWERK (man it looks good!) back on again... NO, I am going through with this until the end!

Day 6: I am wondering if just putting the Linde Werdelin instrument counts as a watch. What about just keeping it in the pocket? No, no cheating...

Day 7: The physical urge of wearing a watch on my wrist has been overcome, BUT because I hate to pull out my phone to see the time I find myself asking my wife for the time ALL the time.

Day 8: My wife is really annoyed at me asking for the time ALL the time. Don't blame her, I am annoyed to ask ALL the time but it beats taking out the phone.

Day 9: I have stopped asking my wife for the time. At this point I fear for my physical well being should I ask her once more. I am back to taking out my phone...

Day 10: My god, I can't wait it to be over. Now, who will be first...

It is clear that after this little test I not only look at watches for the sheer pleasure of looking at them. Granted, many times I do, and I guess so do you. The thing that struck me most is that nobody, I mean NOBODY, asked me in 10 days why I was not wearing a watch. This is particularly relevant since most people go out of their way to see what I am wearing on my wrist. Not that I consider myself that important, but rather I have "peculiar" or "unique" watches that on occasions digress from the more "classic" or standard view.

Anyway, I have sacrificed myself so many of you don't have to. If you have doubts or had them, here is my experience and conclusion. Watches are a part of our lives today more than ever. They not only say something about you and set you apart but they are helpful so as not to loose track in a world where every second counts. Enjoy them, they deserve it!

L.U.C. Tech Twist "CronotempVs I"

2010-11-13T18:29:00.009+01:00

A rather mysterious/unknown piece, the "CronotemVs I" has just been delivered to the initial founding members of a private watch collectors club. A sporty interpretation of Chopard's L.U.C. Tech Twist for a private watch collectors club. The first L.U.C. watch with a DLC watch case. The movement is rhodium plated in black with yellow writing to match the indices and yellow Luminova.

Marrying a traditional or classical watch with a more modern sporty look was a bargain but it turns out to work rather well.

CronotempVs is a private watch collectors club that started in Spain yet has since its birth last year several foreign members as well. In order to be accepted you must have a godfather and a board will vote your adherence to the club. Should one not have any access to a member of the club to be introduced there is always the option to prove that you could be a valuable member of this organization either by contributing in knowledge or simply passion for horology. A letter introducing oneself to the organization directly is the first step...

CronotempVs ordered 20 of these to celebrate their first anniversary. Subsequently there will be one watch ordered per year. What will be the next piece is as of now unknown but it will be, like this one, a piece to be remembered.

Chopard...
CronotempVs...

RESSENCE "Zero Series"

2010-06-20T21:06:00.010+02:00

At last! One of the few interesting novelties of this year's Basel World 2010 is really coming to life. I was hoping that the Ressence "Zero Series" by Benoît Mintiens becomes fact and not fiction. I must say that I was very impressed when I first saw the prototypes. A new idea in difficult times is definitely worth some attention.

Physically the watch is very well balanced and all the details look quite stunning, especially for a proto. The top and bottom sapphire glass make it a very, dare I say it... sexy watch. (Don't forget that due to this peculiar use of the sapphire glass covering most of the surface of the watch you will have very little scratches on the case). It is extremely pleasant to the touch with almost an eery feeling of "Feng Shui". Holding it almost feels like entering a Japanese Zen Garden. Despite its initially complex design the Ressence is as harmonious as a classic hour-minute dress watch.

The face is flat with all information on the same level front is a regulator with seconds and day night indicator. The back has the same front sapphire glass but shows a rotating disk instead of the classic rotor. The face that incidentally displays everything on the same plane is composed of a main rotating disk for the minutes and three smaller disks inside for the hours, seconds and day/night indicator. A bit tricky at first but it does not take long to get used to. Here is a demo... The crown has a safety in oder to prevent changing the time inadvertently.

All the details are phenomenal and although I have not been able to have a finished production model what I have seen so far was quite impressive. Compared to the original prototype the Zero Series is almost 1 millimeter thiner and the strap at the case is 22 millimeters. Both changes are extremely welcome since they are the only two things that I would have changed from the prototype. The only drawback is that the crown will be larger according to the specs. Although I hope the crown will be only "wider" but shorter since I found it a bit sticking out on the first test models. Perfection would have been this beauty to be manual wind, bliss would have been a seven day power reserve with indication.

I was very impressed with the first trials. This is generally rarely the case with prototypes that disappoint rather than enamor. As with everything this is only the beginning for Ressence and this new idea to tell time so expect there to be more to come after the "Zero Series". However, expect it to be more complex and probably more expensive. I do not have to remind many of you that URWERK's 101 and 102 was a steal at a similar price to this first Ressence (and never to be seen at this price again...).

Prices are excl. VAT and import duties for non-EU countries
For TYPE1001 & TYPE1004: 9950€
For TYPE1002 & TYPE1003: 11500€

Because the Zero Series is hand made there are some possibilities of customization. As with many things, there will be only 50 lucky owners with one of these in their collection.

RESSENCE...

THE HALDA CONCEPT

2010-04-27T20:29:00.012+02:00

It is rare that I speak of quartz, let alone digital, watches here at all. Now, there are always exceptions and in order for them to be exceptions they would have to be well worth it. Like many of us in my age bracket (40's...) we do remember that our first love of watches where most likely a digital Casio or Seiko. A long time has passed since them and we have all changed quite a bit in our preferences. To the point of not only avoiding digital but rather shunning it altogether. The question is simple; is it our evolution into more refined/exclusive products or the simple lack of evolution of the digital in the luxury watch segment? I guess a bit of both. Myself, the only digital I wear sometimes, and quite enjoy from time to time, is Linde Werdelin's land instrument. However, it is an instrument and meant as addition to a watch. Surprisingly, being an addict to all thinks that have lights and go beep I have gone the mechanical way when it comes to watches.

It is only yesterday that by chance I came across a new project called HALDA . I must admit I was quite impressed. The HALDA looked like it could be the first Luxury Digital watch to date. A very gutsy move since it is difficult to make anybody, especially watch enthusiasts, spend that amount of money on electronics. VERTU has somewhat overcome that prejudice but still, it will be a difficult task considering the times. The idea is to use the strap as a docking mechanism that will accept not only the two current modules but subsequent modules with different functions and complications in the future. This modular concept might be interesting yet on the long run could limit the possibilities of HALDA to evolve inside this form.

I have not been able to see the HALDA in the flesh so my critique is only based on the product itself and the marketing strategy. Construction-vise I have owned a Sjöö Sandström CHRONOLINK since probably the creation of the company (I am not sure but it was back in 1997 when I got mine) And judging from the make and quality of this watch there should be no problems at all with this one either. The main figure behind this is Mikael Sandström. By the way, thanks for not calling this watch something as unpronounceable as ShjjooossSaaandeströööemm. What a nightmare!

The watch looks quite impressive from the renders. The functions are tuned to space missions and remind me of the functionality of Omega's now retired X-33. There is all sorts of features related to mission objectives like mission timers, countdowns, double timezone, alarms and a G-Force counter that will store the different accelerations in a memory bank. Not that many of us will be going into space anytime soon but I would love to sit in a roller coaster and test this. Another option would be as a copilot inside a Formula 1 car. (Although being Swedish I suspect that some will be tempted to test it during the running of the bulls in Pamplona. Swedes have a habit of getting caught by the bulls... alcohol, no sleep and a pissed-off bull result generally in a large amount of pain.) One of the most aesthetically appealing feature is the self adjusting backlight with an exterior sensor (if this sensor is coupled with the actual watch computer it could lead to some very interesting features). The sensor is located at 12 o'clock and will automatically adjust the intensity and even the color wavelength of the display. Very cool! My last surprise is that contrary to the X-33 or the Speedmaster the HALDA goes 100 meters deep. Which according to my scale it is well inside the casual swim or "poolproof" parameter. Which comes quite handy since it is much more likely to end up in a pool than in space.

The mechanical movement seems to be a bit left out compared to the impact of the space module. This module is no joke, a very desirable NOS Andersen tuned to operate at 36,000 bph. The design is clean and straight to the point although on the back the rotor is maybe too classic for this concept. I would also note that the mechanical module is only 50 meter waterproof. This creates a disparity between both modules and could lead to confusion by the owner. For some reason the mechanical module is 2 millimeters thiner than the space module. I am not certain if it would help, but making it the same thickness as the space module to make it waterproof to 100 meters. This would standardize not only the size but also the performance.

On the negative side; The proportions seem to be quite well balanced although the case "sounds" a bit thick at slightly over 17 millimeters for the space module. However, this could change when seen in the flesh. There are some features or indications that I am missing. Adding things such as an equation of time, sunrise and sunset or even a moonphase would greatly appreciated. The (now lost) nerdy hour chime would also make sense in a watch of these characteristics since it does help keep track of time. I was not too happy initially with the two years battery life yet in the end it is for the best since it forces the watch to go through service regularly for firmware updates and gasket changes to ensure the waterproof property of the watch. I am not particularly fond of the bracelet, especially the part of the clasp. Again, I generally dislike all bracelets except for the Submariner's and RoyalOak. From this view of the watch, the clasp does not look very "luxury" to me. Many times it happens that watch designers put so much emphasis on the design of the watch that details like the clasp are often left to chance. I hope there is a kevlar/velcro option that can be worn on the wrists without the space suit.

These first 128 pieces will be sold directly for the time being. The idea is to slowly setup a network of trusted distributors worldwide. The price is set to 8,800€ for the set with the two modules, the two straps, travel box and the instructions. Delivery is around 3 to 4 months from the initial order. I have not yet had the chance to get my hands on the HALDA for a definite critique but from what I see I must say I like the whole idea very much.

HALDA...

RM027 "NADAL"

2010-04-01T22:56:00.005+02:00

Awesome! Pictures at last of this little gem! Believe it or not, the watch weights without the strap just little over 13 grams. I held it in my hands during the Geneva show 2010 and it is just mind blowing. There is an unconfirmed rumor that say that Nadal actually has tested this watch during matches under one of his wristbands. Just like Massa wore his Turbillon during racing.

Great move to sign Nadal. Like Felipe he is a very nice and down to earth professional a real joy to have and work with. I rarely like it when brands put famous people under their banners but these two guys are a very good choice.

Richard Mille...

The last V8... I meant , AMVOX2!

2010-03-29T12:20:00.005+02:00

Apparently the AMVOX2 will ceased to be produced, at least for the time being. Even if officially Jaeger do not discard to do "some" in the future, these will be for specific occasions and by special requests only. Great move if you ask me. It will help raise the appreciation of the AMVOX2 but also put it in a different, more exclusive spotlight. The AMVOX2 has so far always been produced in Limited Editions even if the number is close to a total of around 4,000 watches there are not many of each especially considering that there are about 1,000 Jaeger dealers around the world. Amanico of "thePuristsPro" has actually made a great chronological summary of the AMVOX2 line. Here...

Now, who/what is the last AMVOX2? Well, the code name is "DR5" or the (newly inaugurated) "Madrid Boutique". DR5 are simply the initials of the address (Don Ramon 5). There will be 25 pieces made and for now it looks like these are the final and last 25. Aesthetically it looks like a hybrid between the first PVD AMVOX2 and the DBS version with the seconds on a disk at 6 o'clock. Unlike all previous black AMVOX2 versions the trigger and crown in this version are also black PVD.

Together with this piece comes the exclusivity of the owner to have preferential rights to the next Madrid Boutique limited edition with the matching watch number. This preferential option is for the "owner" and not the "buyer" in order to avoid any type of speculation. Don't miss interpret this by thinking that owners will be penalized or punished for selling these pieces. This simply means that if you are a registered owner of this piece you will receive information and the chance to reserve the next LE before anybody else. This is a way to reward and give preferential treatment to collectors and give them the safety to NOT be always on the lookout.

Needless to say that those registered owners will also receive the Boutique VIP status. What is VIP status? Well, receiving pieces well before everybody, the possibility to reserve number if still available, visits to the manufacture, Jaeger Master Class courses, tickets to events sponsored by Jaeger, etc... I guess buying from a Jaeger leCoultre Boutique has its perks.

The price is 13,500€ and the discount is strictly (and most unfortunately) ZERO. Orders and reservations will be accepted starting April 5th. If you are interested here are the details;

eMail: Boutique.Madrid@jaeger-lecoultre.com
Tel.: +34 91-781-9600 (English spoken)
Address: Don Ramon de la Cruz 5, 28001 MADRID

Jaeger leCoultre...

BASEL WORLD 2010

2010-03-29T11:48:00.004+02:00

Basel was incredibly uneventful this year, the Tourbillon is no longer the star of the show (thank god for that...) and the big boys are making the effort in making cheaper/more affordable watches. sad, because from the looks of it they seem to have forgotten how to do that. One or two "cheaper" models are not going to help any brand out of a slump. It might help set the normalization but ultimately if the eyes are not set on the near future such moves are basically inconsequential.

Surprisingly there is no need for me to make a list of the worst of the Basel Show this year. Since most brands have dropped the fanfare and bull-crap for logical reasons. As with everything there is always one that shits beside the pot. Patek, who else? They deserve a separate and more in-depth analysis.

Things in the watch world are back to normal; competitors hating and bashing each other's products, ultra expensive pieces are having a lot of trouble selling, collector and watch lovers are back in vogue, no more expensive opulent parties, Rolex presents basically nothing new, Omega presents its annual edition of the Speedmaster, ... the watch world is back to its origins.

There are few things that I can really say that where memorable this year. I can sum them up in a few instances; URWERK retires the 103 with two great pieces, Speake-Marin has had a considerable jump in quality (and price) since I last saw his work, The new Tudor Montecarlo remake (not kidding...) is probably my favorite of the show, L.U.C. still amaze me with four completely new movements amongst them a proper Tourbillon for 53,000 Euros... and there is a new kid in watchtown called Benoit (but more on him later).

All in all, with less shown Basel was probably more pleasant than previous years. I only spent two days this year due to other engagements so unlike other years I had no chance see everything. Even if I surely missed something the general feel was of acceptance that the golden age is over and it is time to go back to normality. At last.

Extreme Lab 2

2010-02-22T19:38:00.011+01:00

There is no doubt in mind that these years star of the show is Jaeger's "Extreme Lab 2". Not only for the complications at what I consider to be a more than very competitive price but because it might be the begging of a completely new direction for Jaeger. There has been a lot of critique on this piece, in favor and against. This leeds me to believe that it will indeed be a hot seller. When you have such opposite feelings regarding a product it is generally a sign of success. Indifference would be the worst possible scenario.

For 39,000€ you get a radial power reserve indicator, digital minutes 24-hour chrono, date, GMT, function selector, antimagnetic mechanism, reset to zero seconds, ceramic bezel, TiVan 15 case, fine adjustable buckle and a watch that is made out of over 500 parts! There is no argument with me that 39k is a lot of money, yet considering what you get here is a bargain! I asked several aficionados/collectors to quote me a price after they have been presented the piece at the Jaeger stand and no one was below 200k! I will not want to make too much predictions here but at this price and only 300 pieces in titanium and 200 in rose gold, they might be difficult to source. All really depends if Jaeger is able to breach the "glamour barrier" since a watch at this price point is subject to more superficial valuations rather than complications or performance. AP is the perfect example for a brand that has successfully breached the "glamour barrier" for expensive watches with little complications inside. Needless to say that this could eventually backfire if you expect this to go on for ever. I hope that Jaeger will not increase quantities for this watch despite having three times the demand.

The Extreme Lab 2 is based or rather takes several aesthetic and mechanical details from the first Extreme Lab. At 46mm it is quite an increase in size and most Jaeger customers might feel a bit overwhelmed with its size. Thankfully there are two things that make this actually a very pleasant watch to wear despite the size. One is the strap ball-bearing mechanism inherited from the Extreme Lab 1 and the other is the curvature of the case bottom. Not only that but the ardillon buckle is adjustable to ensure a perfect fit, even if your ideal size is between two holes on the strap (usually ALWAYS the case...). This makes the Extreme LAb 2 one of, if not the most comfortable watch I have ever worn.

The watch has only one handicap. It looks much better on the wrist than off the wrist. Similar to AP's "Survivor" it is a watch that kicks you in the head once on your wrist. There are some minor changes that could, and should, take place before reaching final stage of production. Some change in the Luminova and a more logically color-coded power reserve indicator should be some. Right now the time is unreadable at night despite having quite thick hands and indices. The problem lies with the tip of the minutes that coincides with the indices. At night this tip disappears when in front of any of the indices making the hours and minutes almost indistinguishable. The power reserve in white and red is simply not clear enough. The combination should be white and black or red and black.

Despite some minor logical flaws I can't wait to get the hands on mine. Unfortunately I will have to wait until November according to Jaeger. However, knowing Jaeger's history in being a couple of months behind when it comes to new models, you can be sure that the is NO WAY IN HELL that any of these will be delivered by then. In fact, I am going to bet with my official importer here that if I where to receive mine by... let's say the last day of November, I will shave my head. Trust me, the chances for me to do that a very, very slim...

Jaeger leCoultre...

De Bethune

2010-01-25T20:22:00.008+01:00

A pleasant surprise. My first official contact to see De Bethune in the flesh. As far as I can remember the thing that kept me away from De Bethune was its funky moon-phase. Well, I still cant stand that revolving ball that just does not look right inside the dial of a watch. It might be a great technical feat, yet to me it's just... I don't know, it simply doesn't work for me. It's distracting and even if it is more graphically accurate I just can't seem to get the idea as to why interpret this complication as a 3D object when in fact we see and perceive it a a 2D object due to the distance. Regardless of the fact that this type of moon-phase thickens the watch at least a couple of millimeters.

Technically the whole collection is impeccable. True that most are a bit too big for my taste. Also having too much "extras" on the outside of the case make the whole a bit distracting. A lot of swinging parts to adapt to the wrist and awkward crown placements make it sometimes scary, yet the finishes are simply beyond reproach. Interestingly, and this is a first, I was much more interested in some of the more affordable models that the important pieces. These are smaller, cleaner and with the same finishes as the rest of the collection but with less distracting stuff inside and around the watch. These two pieces have definitely caught my eye.

DB25: Make me think what would happen if a Richard Mille "Perini Navi" and Patek "Calatrava" had a love child. These type of marriages rarely are successful but in this case i think they both would be proud. The DB25 is simply striking in its elegance despite being a modern watch. The power reserve at 12 o'clock is non-intrusive on the dial yet very easy to read. Like with all the rest of the collection the finishes are impeccable and technically right up there with the best. The DB25 is rather expensive yet it is well placed in its price range.

My only regret are the skeletonized strap holders and blue watches generally look better with dark blue straps. Other than that the DB25 is a very well balanced piece. Great watch.

DB24: This is a much more sporty version and also much larger than the DB25 yet thankfully it remains relatively thin. The dial has no paint/enamel since that blue color is achieved through heat and finished by various polishing methods. Like Richard's RM010 you have three positions to adapt the speed of the winding rotor to your lifestyle. However, here you can actually set them yourself at anytime without having to open or send the watch for service.

The setting can be seen from the front of the watch as well as from the back. I would have done without the front display since both indications are redundant. One would have suffused and having it in the back only would make the dial a bit cleaner. The power reserve at 12 o'clock looks hot yet a bit hard to see and the hour hand is easily confused with the minute hand or even dial. It is a possible option for those that want something modern yet just don' like the RM's tonneau shape.

I still think that prices such as these are no longer justifiable through "exclusivity" alone. With De Bethune I get hight prices but also more than others if compared at the same price range. De Bethune is a niche, a complicated one at that but one that has been growing strong especially during this crisis. The question remains if they will manage to get on that boat. Personally, I hope so.

De Bethune...

IWC: SIHH 2010

2010-01-24T22:22:00.007+01:00

I wasn't expecting much from IWC this year. To be honest the las years have been quite boring or simply horrifying with the new interpretation of the DaVinci, the ghastly vintage collection or the "Lego Diver" collection of last year. Nothing really that got me interested at least since the Ingenieur Ceramic. The Portuguese has never really clicked with me. That is until now... I always found it blend, boring and expensive. That and the feeling that IWC could go a bit further with the Portuguese. You know, that feeling that they just came up short in with some details.

Now looking at this years Portuguese collection I must say that I am pleasantly surprised. Everything seems to be where it should be and the collection seems to have been injected with that little extra that makes it worth a second look. Out of all of them one stands out above the rest. I was especially surprised by the Portuguese Manual ref. 5454. Hmmm... nice, very nice.

The proportions are very elegant being 44mm wide and 10mm thick even if it could have been just a tad smaller. The dial looks much more elaborate that the previous equivalents and there is nothing to complain about the finish. What is a hit is the price that will be close to the 6,000 € mark. This one goes definitely on this year's list for candidates to be purchased.

Ahhh, and I forgot the 8-day Automatic. A bit of a contradiction (8-day automatic movements) but a welcome addition to the Portuguese collection.

The DaVinci chrono in ceramic on the other hand, is serious shit gone wrong. It looks like nothing, says nothing and is just as bad as all other DaVinci models. Have a look for your self. No comment.

IWC...

Jaeger leCoultre: SIHH 2010

2010-01-24T11:39:00.006+01:00

There are many very interesting pieces from Jaeger this year. Some where presented at the SIHH and some will be presented at a later date and I can't discus these yet. here are some of the highlights of Jaeger;

Extreme Lab 2: I was going to tell you later about my choice for the star of the 2010 SIHH but I can't hold it anymore. As far as I am concerned the Extreme Lab 2 takes that spot. I had three contenders in that cathegory; Lange's Zeitwerk, Richard Mille's RM027 and the Extreme. I will comment in a separate post later as to my reasons.

Master Grande Tradition:

I could have lived without that Tourbillon but what is really astonishing about this piece is the repeater volume. Simply astounding. I have not herd this decibel level from a pocket repeater ever, let alone from a wrist watch! This beast was very, I mean VERY loud in a padded room crowded with people at a distance of 5 meters!!! For a second I even thought there was a mic in the room. The trebuchet hammer system coupled with the one and a half time revolving gong spring simply blast anything I have ever heard before. Honestly, this beast was so loud I simply did not stop and look at any of the other complications! I would love to see a striped down version with this repeater system at a much lower cost. The first time I would consider a wrist repeater for myself.

Duometre Moon: The second watch in the Duometre collection that confirms that there will be a continued Duometre line. This makes me very happy. This is one of those "smart" products that have sprung out of this year's SIHH (there are surprisingly many this year!). The time display is properly placed on the right side of the dial and the chrono has been replaced by a date and moon-phase. All this drops the list price by 5,000 Euros while it maintains the architecture and so much appreciated finish of the movement. Most of us do not use a chrono anyway so changing that for a more commonly useful complication while dropping the price is nothing but good news.

Navy Seals Automatic: Very clean with a great size and shape for normal wrists. It will be bellow the 6,000 Euro threshold. I like it, but I am not sure why yet.

Memovox International: As discussed in a previous post it is one of the most elegant watches I have seen in a long time. There is something almost mystical about the watch. I have held many Memovoxes yet this one has something special about it. I have had the chance to review this piece before the SIHH and my mind has not changed since then. Here is my previous review...

Extreme World Chrono: The reedition of the Extreme Chrono with a very pleasant hour hand on the chrono. Does not look like a Jaeger but it is a interesting development that I am very curious to see how it does in the stores.

Jaeger leCoultre...

URWERK "203 Razor"

2010-01-24T11:11:00.003+01:00

The odometer and 5 year oil change indicator are back! But only for 20 times. The 203 could be seen as a fusion between the 201 and 202. The automatic turbine movement remains the same while the minute bezel and hour satellite have been skeletonized. This gives a better view of the turning dice mechanism as well as making the turning central satellite lighter. The finish is sandblasted platinum with URWERK's already popular PVD-like coating.

To be honest I was not expecting much from URWERK this year. Developing something like the CC1 for a small company like URWERK is simply a titanic task. After this "feat" a small rest would have been understandable. I regard the 203 as a "bridge" model for the future things to come. The next few years at URWERK will be very interesting if not astonishing.

URWERK...

UPDATE: MB&F "HM2-SV"

2010-01-24T10:29:00.004+01:00

As commented before here are the pictures of MB & F's "Horological Machine Nº2". A hypnotizing piece this HM2-SV. One of those watches that 90% of the time you look at them you do so without the intention to read the time. You just look at it to admire the architecture of the movement. I reckon that this is not everybody's cup of tea yet being different today is almost a complication in itself.

This is the third (actually fourth counting the Alain Silberstein) of the HM2. Very striking although my favorite remains the HM2 Ceramic version.

I know there are already new developments in the oven at MB & F and can't wait to see what will be presented shortly. I have the feeling that the HM2 has already been interpreted in the correct amounts, anymore would be taking the "OffShore" road. If the HM2 is Büsser's hottest product than it deserver a regular production slot. The problem with Limited Editions is explained in their own definition. They LIMIT your success. I still have hope that the industry will learn this, eventually.

MB & F...

Ralph Lauren: SIHH 2010

2010-01-23T19:07:00.000+01:00

I think it better to get the garbage out of the way first. As you can appreciate from the pictures below, RL have given us diamonds on last year's phenomenal effort in imagination horological excellence. I would be vomiting right now but thankfully it has been a while since lunch. Thankfully I prepared myself for this year and they did not manage to cheat me into coming in early in the morning to be presented with this... well, whatever.

Barf...

Barf, barf...

Mega barf...

Here is another prediction; I doubt this will last another season. Looking at last years "appalling" success coupled with this year's additions to the collection I doubt there will be a SIHH 2011 for them. If "Ferrari by Panerai" did not make it past year three this will not go much further.

The countdown is about to begin...

2010-01-23T18:32:00.006+01:00

The general feel of the fair is better than last year but with with an emphasis on caution. The Tourbillon is still present but at least it has been relayed to a second or even third line. That is the next best thing next to complete normalization of this complication. Don't get me wrong, I have nothing against the Tourbillon, I just believe that they belong in pocket watches (where they should have never left) or at least brands that are built around that complication. Brands such as Greubel Forsey, Richard Mille or Breguet since it was the original inventor. I have no interest in Tourbillons inside Panerai, Jaeger, AP, Patek, Omega, BlancPain, IWC or Lange. I just feel that these have much more to offer when they do "other" things. Well, interestingly this year is the first since long where the Tourbillon is not the center of attention in all stands. Finally... Now the only cancer in the industry are the Limited Editions.

As to inovation Jaeger takes first place this time in detriment of AP. Panerai take first place when it comes to products that make sense and will be actually selling well. Very smart lineup from their side and contrary to las year the focus was much more on the Radiomir. Thanks for that. Vacheron seems to get its head out of the sand and is aiming straight at Patek with several interesting Patrimonies. IWC, well, not as awful as last year but nothing to loose sleep about. Lange introduced a very cool variation of the "Zeitwerk" with Luminova. Richard Mille and Greubel Forsey are part of the game. About time. AP plays it safe with the "Grand Prix" and introduces two pieces that are not new as far as movements are concerned but are holes that needed to be filled in the Jules Audemars and Royal Oak collections. Ralph Lauren... they are back again. Still don't know why. Montblanc has still the intention to make nice and expensive watches that feel like merchandising. Where and to whom do they sell this stuff? I wish they stuck to pens and gave back Minerva's corporate identity. Cartier surprised me with one piece I would actually consider. Stop, it must be the long hours in a closed hangar! GP is surprisingly not bankrupt yet and still present. Piaget is attempting to recuperate all the lost credit since they gave up on European markets since the 70s'. It is going to take them a while as well as a lot of money. Word of advice; MIKA is not the best image for getting serious collectors back. I still can't figure out Parmigiani. I have no clue as to why Van Cleef, Dunhill and Baume are doing there. Ahhh... and Ferrari has introduced a super stealth model... wait, forgot they where gone. I think I said this would happen in a post I made last year. (I remember getting slammed for predicting that...)

Well, I will start by focusing on the watches that caught my attention. I will try to be as brief as possible. The last post will be dedicated to the watch that in my opinion has been this years star at the show... Wait and see.

Good god... a year already!

2010-01-17T08:54:00.007+01:00

It almost feels like yesterday since last year's SIHH. I will be off tomorrow to visits the years first show and in a week from know you will have my thoughts (for what they are worth) on this blog.

There is no doubt in my mind that this year's Fair will be interesting, not from a horological point of view, but rather to see how the sector has reacted to these last years of "complicated" sales. From the first view at the pre-Fair news, the Tourbillon as a means of generating hype and fast cash is indeed dead. Thank god for that. All those years lost in developing ultra complicated and expensive tourbillons while not really doing much on the lower end of the watch spectrum has simply resulted in diminishing the worth of the lower-end and mid-range watches on the price list. Many resources spend and time lost making 200k watches and developments that in most cases will never see the light on regular production models despite claims like; "... we will install this revolutionary escapement in over 80% of our watches regardless of their price range by the end of 2011...." Well, the cited escapement is today only available on a watch in the 200K range. Looks like the intention to upgrade all their movements will not be, at least for now.

The second "cancer" that is slowly eating away at the industry are of course senseless Limited Editions. There is nothing wrong with Limited Edition yet all within measure and quantity. By that I mean that very few should be made and very few editions should see the light. If this is not carefully revised the sales or regular production/collection items will be increasingly harder if not impossible. Incidentally several brands are already taking steps towards ending this nonsense, or at least this is what they have been saying for the last six months. We will know next week if this is so.

Well, I hope that this years SIHH and Time Exhibition shows are not as "grim" as last year. In any case I will keep you posted once I return.

MB&F "HM2-SV"

2010-01-06T11:53:00.004+01:00

This is only a sneak preview of what MB&F will present this year.

The HM2-SV will be officially presented on the 12th of January. It is based on the HM2 that I already discuseed in a previous post. It will be limited to 25 pieces to be distributed worldwide. As you can se from the picture the front is saphire glass so I will atach pictures of the regular model.

I will be posting full pictures as soon as they are made available yet for now you just must let your imagination fly...

MB & F...

The "Holly Grail" of Swatches

2009-12-19T08:20:00.009+01:00

Little is it known that the largest a most complete Swatch collection resides in Spain. In this "temple" there is not only the watches themselves but all merchandise remotely related to the brand. From matches to the Smart-Swatch car. Displays, phones, jackets, pencils, condoms, beepers, banners, stands... He simply has it all. From having almost four of each Swatch ever produced he also catalogues all "dummies" and variations of dummies (these are the watches that are used on displays and that are not really functional), prototypes, wall clocks, freakish mistakes and even fakes. I have seen many collections of many things in my life but something this extensive and complete NEVER.

Most astonishing is that amongst practically all that Swatch has ever produced there is one that might be king of them all. The "HAI ECK". Know as an urban legend to most Swatch collectors I have had the chance to hold it and shoot it personally.

Now to the story; Apparently this piece was made by an employee of Mr. Hayek some time ago. The dial was made to represent a shark and a corner as you might see from the picture. Translated into german this means "Hai" for shark and "Eck" for corner. Together they pronounce "HAYEK" which incidentally happens to be the last name of the owner. Once presented with this piece, far from being flattered at this tribute of admiration, he felt offended. Little was the artist aware of Mr. Hayek's laking sense of humor. Needles to say the creator of this unique Swatch got sacked. The watch disappeared for a while and resurfaced only to be acquired by this collector.

You wonder; "What else doe he have?" Well, practically everything. Apart from several "Kiki Picasso" more "Mimmo Paladino" he has prototypes that have and will never seen the light. Here are some samples.

Some Kiki Picassos and prototypes...

Some Mimmos...

The Puffs...

More prototypes...

Anyway, this can go on for ever. A full guided tour of the premises takes about 2 to 3 hours. I must say that I find myself very fortunate to count the owner of this incredible collection as my friend. Having the chance to see this is simply a privilege reserved for a fortunate few. I was never a Swatch collector, yet this collection it simply jaw dropping and could hardly be described in its full magnitude. I can't imagine what impact this collection would provoke to a real Swatch collector.

Love/Hate at first sight

2009-12-08T09:00:00.007+01:00

This is one of those watches that I never considered at first but once discovered... I must admit it is causing me to loose some sleep lately for two different reasons. The first is that I love the back, the second is that I hate the front. Please take time to look at the pictures of the different movements I am including here. Simply breathtaking. Not only the astonishing finish but the whole architecture and design of the movement. Spectacular. The crown is on the back (one of my favorite features) and on top of that the proportions are just close to heaven. These being 41 millimeters wide and 11.3 millimeters thick. It simply fits most wrists from small-medium to large. The case is of classic conception but has some more modern accents. What a beauty. I am speechless.

Now, once I turn the watch and look at the front I just cry in despair. Awful. (Incidentally, I hope nobody at RG is actually reading this... actually if you are, please skip this chapter and go to the next) I just can't get to understand how this can come to be. Is it just me? I know that I am heavily biased against off-centered dials. However, this one is even worse since it is completely off-balance with nothing south on the dial to compensate. Even the design of the dial says absolutely nothing. Blend and boring... only barely elegant. My question to anybody that waste time reading this blog; Do you like the dial? Please be honest. I am trying to convince myself to get one of these works of art, pretty much like I try to convince myself that the Mona Lisa is actually a beautiful woman. After all these years she still looks to me like a flat-chested chubby woman without eyebrows. As far as art is concerned I was always more impressed by Goya's interpretation of "Saturn devouring one of his sons" than with the "Gioconda", connotations aside. Could this be the same here, could I be the "uneducated insensitive to art caveman" that my wife has been telling me for years? Hmmm, possibly...

The finish of the movement is really something to be very impressed about. One of the most difficult things to produce in handmade movements are sharp angles on bridges and baseplates. There are basically two kinds; outward angle and inward angle. The second of these two being the hardest one. When looking at a movement the way to immediately see if it's handmade is to look for these sharp angles. To date these can only be made by hand. No machine, no mater how expensive, can properly execute such angles. Now, until now I have not seen anybody, I mean anybody, make such a deep inward "anglage" like the guys at Romain Gauthier. By that I include any of the big guns like Lange, AP, L.U.C., Vacheron or Patek. These guys are in fact light years away from such finishes. Yes, these finishes are even above those of Voutilainen, Philippe Dufour and could even challenge the ever magnificent reign of Greubel Forsey. Look at this, judge, sit back and enjoy.

The only thing I am certain of is if Romain Gaultier were indeed one day to center its minutes and hours I would be looking for my piggy bank (life savings) like Jack Nicholson was looking, axe in hand, for his wife in the "Shining".

Romain Gauthier...

Memovox "International" UPDATE

2009-12-07T12:58:00.006+01:00

This is the first official picture of the "International".

Details are as follows;

- Limited to 750 units in steel and 250 in rose gold.
- The oficial list price will be 8,250 € for the steel and 16.100 € for the rose gold version.
- The table stand will be sold separately and exclusively at the Boutiques as an accessory. The price will be 1,000 €

I find the price to be even more reasonable than anticipated. I guess that this is due to separating the stand from the piece. Quantities are within normal parameters. I guess that the decision to separate the "tablet stand" from the watch helps bring the price down. It is only logic to assume that some would rather spend 1.000 € less for the watch instead of having to forcefully buy a base they might not even want in the first place. The second benefit is that it will be available as an accessory to all those that have a regular Memovox. I can but applaud this decision. It's simply is a win-win situation for all. The watch is cheaper and anybody that owns a Memovox has the choice to purchase the base separately.

The base will be pretty much like it has been shown in the pictures bellow. It will be rhodium coated like the Atmos and the top will be padded with leather to prevent scratching. Actually the base fits so well it is only to prevent scratching the buckle when inserting the watch in the base.

Jaeger leCoultre...

P.s. I am still intrigued about where this base/stand came from. Once I have the proper data I will post here in that regard...

Memovox "International"

2009-12-05T20:00:00.000+01:00

I am usually not in the game of making reportage bloging. However this time it is different. I have just been given a chance to test-drive the new, to be introduced in January, Memovox "International". At first I thought; "... 40mm, hmmm, too small for me" Being used used to be in the 44 to 46 range lately it did strike me to be a bit small at first . This reminds me that I should wear normal sized watches for a while or at least until I find 40mm normal again. Anyway, once on my wrist I could not help but be astonished at how strikingly elegant this was really is. For a moment I felt teleported to the 60's wearing a dark suit, white shirt, thin dark tie and the classic thick black Ray-ban sunglasses while crossing the TWA bridge at JFK Airport. When traveling had style and glamour, and flight attendants where graceful heavenly creatures. Almost hypnotizing to have something so 60's brand new on your wrist.

Needless to say that this is a first and nobody, I MEAN NOBODY, has published pictures of this piece yet. Yes, you saw it here first. By the way, I would hate to have to put watermarks on any of my pictures. If you want to use them, please go ahead but please have the grace to mention or even link where you got these photos from. Thanks in advance.

The second surprise is the prototype desk-stand. This is actually a replica of one that was sold originally with the Memovox in the past. Apart from being a stand for the Memovox it also amplifies the sound of the alarm. I really was smitten with the idea that they would bring this back. Awesome! Even if you are not the kind to take off your watch when at work or when asleep. This is a very cool accessory none the less.

The brass prototype of this stand/amplifier was clearly unfinished yet incredibly tight and well fitted to the Memovox. It is unclear what the indentation in the front was. Some believe it was possibly a thermometer, others a digital clock. This version will get a plate. This is pure speculation but it could be engraved in case of this being a gift. I still think one or two millimetres would have done this watch some good. And my only "but" is that the opening of the date does not have a steel frame like the previous Memovox. In this case I still have hope since this is not a 100% completed watch.

Since this was a prototype, a very well finished prototype, the details on the back are likely going to be different so there is no point in shoving it just now. The price will most likely be slightly higher than the Polaris. If the stand is part of the whole package I would estimate a 10% to 20% increase over the Polaris. Quantities are most likely going to range in the 1,000 range. Personally I can't but applaud these "vintage" editions. They are what many of us have been dreaming to have a chance to own one of these pieces of history.

Jaeger leCoultre...

P.999 "Starting to make sense again..."

2009-11-22T15:43:00.007+01:00

Last year we where speechless with introduction of two new movements that where just unbelievably thick. The first around the 8 millimeter mark while the second almost reached 1 centimeter in thickness. Most stunning of all, they where (and maybe still are) meant to be used as base calibres to later add modules on top. Now let's add; 10 mm for the base, 5 mm for a 100 meters waterproof case, an extra 2 mm for a nice sapphire convex glass and a GMT or chrono module of another 3 mm. Now add this up. Hilarious...

Interestingly, almost a year later it looks like somebody has finally bashed some sense into Panerai and the P.999 seems to be what should have been introduced not in 2010 but in 2008 instead. The numbers are indeed much more coherent and noteworthy than the previous predecessors. At a thickness of 3.4 millimeters we are talking just the right size to add interesting stuff on top and not really make a burger out of it. The P.999 has also a 60 hour power reserve which is almost 50% more than the UNITAS commonly used in manual low range Panerais. Not enough to reach three days but a welcomed increased autonomy none the less. The architecture is nothing new yet without going into the debate if this is yet another evolution of a movement developed last century, I give them again browny points for the looks of their movements. Despite this being an evolution of something old (practically all modern movements today are evolutions) their looks at least are modern. I can't wait to see the finished product in Geneva at the SIHH if it looks anything like the render here than I must admit I will be impressed. My second concern will be to know if this indeed will replace the Unitas at Panerai completely. I guess that production of the P.999 is limited. By the looks of it they are trying to maximize cash just sticking it into a gold case at first. A production of 500 pieces (possibly across two years or more) is no way near enough to replace the Unitas across all lines. If the P.999 where indeed to be the replacement I can only say; It's about time.

The P.999 certainly looks great. As I said in the past, I like the looks modern and simple but well executed finishes of their movements. I am also a recent fan of the Radiomir yet this first edition (PAM00336) to receive the P.999 is inconsequential at best. A 42 mm rose gold is just not new. This could be a mistake though since looking at the past gold Radiomirs that have been ridiculously expensive have been hard sales, even back when almost everything was getting sold. If you are indeed in the market for a gold Panerai this is undoubtedly the way to go. If you are not, just pray for the P.999 in steel.

Panerai...

Navy Seal "ALDAO"

2009-11-21T09:13:00.014+01:00

First, before you start reading this post I need to inform you of my bias in the matter. I confess that I am one of the "fortunate" few that will have one of these NSA on December 10th and you could even say that I share a friendship with that jeweler. Now that the cards are on the table you can take the next paragraphs as you like.

There has been quite a stir with this Special Edition "Navy Seal Alarm" at the forums lately. The piece is essentially the same as the original one except for one "small" modification. The inscription on the glass instead of on the alarm wheel. Unlike most might think, this is no small difference, in fact this was how the NSA was initially planed. The regular NSA will be made 1,500 times and 30 out of these will be made with the printing on the glass. Understandably some Jaeger Fans feel left out, yet with little reason if you ask me. I fear that if I should post this on any of the forums I might cause more harm than good I have decide to post most of the facts regarding this matter here. Even at the expense of seeming that I am trying to sell watches from a jeweler. Here is the story;

June 4th, a group of Spanish collectors have been invited by the jeweler "ALDAO" to be presented with the new "Navy Seal" collection during dinner. During casual conversation at dinner it was revealed to one of these collectors that in fact, unlike the prototype, the official production version will have the "Jaeger leCoultre" as well as the "300 meters waterproof" printed on the dial. This was certainly a step back, in fact many liked the NSA because of the printing on the glass rather than on the dial. During this revelation, the gentleman in that conversation asked if it could be ordered with the "original" printed glass. At that moment, a second gentleman asked if he too could have this done to his NSA. Shortly thereafter, and needles to say, all the others where quick to get wind of this petition and asked for the same option. As a gesture to these very good customers Jaeger kindly offered 10 Navy Seal Alarms to be discretely and exclusively sold through that jeweler. Obviously they where sold on the spot....Two months later there is word that the 10 will be no longer, instead they now will be 30. The reason being that some members of a well known international forum found out about this small series and felt left out. Understandably, they also asked to have the chance to acquire this piece. So in order not to leave anybody out of this series Jaeger decided to raise that quantities to 30 while keeping their word that ALDAO would keep the exclusive right to these pieces.

For some reason, those that vigorously voiced their desire to have the chance to get this piece have not been sharing this information with all the people they where supposed to (cheeky, cheeky...) and rightfully so some now feel left out. Here I not only include fellow watch addicts but also a certain point of sale that pressed insistently to have some of these 30 NSA. Interestingly, since he is not getting any he has simply decided not to share existence of this piece with any of his customers. Instead of sending these customers and give them the chance to own this particular piece there is just no mention of this anywhere. I am not mentioning names since without proof this is merely "here-say" yet who is involved knows what I am talking about. ;-) I have the feeling that some people have not ben completely honest here.

Now back to the watch; I mentioned in a post back in February that I do think that the printing on the inside of the glass simply completes the watch in a very special way. I hope that it's understandable to anybody that if given the opportunity to have the watch as I saw it (and fell in love with) I would naturally go for it without hesitation. There have been some people voicing their concern regarding the anti-glare coating, or rather lack-off, on the inside of the glass due to the printing. It is true that for some reason you can not have both. Yet, I had both versions in my hand... the one with the printed glass wins hands down, despite the fact that it is not coated. Because the dial has a mat-black finish the lack of anti-glare on the inside is really no factor at all. Actually the only time I have missed a coating such as this on the inside of a glass was on the AMVOX1 LE in Titanium. The grey shiny surface was sometimes a problem but only when walking outside or if you had halogen lamps right above your head. Other than that it was just fine.

Now to the sales pitch; The watch will be delivered to all those that bought the watch at a dinner after a whole-day event hosted by ALDAO and Jaeger leCoultre in Madrid on December 10th. The event in it self is a mystery but according to the people organizing it it will be well worth the afternoon and following dinner. The price is the same as the regular Navy Seal Alarm. I am not certain if the are many left but here is the way (if you are interested) to get in touch with them and if possible still get your hands on one;

ALDAO Joyeros

c/ Gran Via 15
Tel; + 34 91-521-6925 (ask for Jorge)
eMail: aldaojoyeria @ gmail.com

Web: www.aldaojoyeros.com

Good luck to all, may the hunt last for ever!

Jaeger leCoultre...

The ABSURD at its best

2009-11-06T18:59:00.020+01:00

...?!? So let me get this straight, there is a shortage of 5070s and considerable problems to replace it with a non-Lemania manual chrono, and Patek blesses us with a Lady's manual chrono?!? I wonder if they made any research regarding the market's need for something like this. If they indeed made some research, whoever came up with this brilliant moment of infinite clarity deserves to be skinned alive. Here is when you hear from you average run-o-the-mill moron say; " Patek is Patek..." Incidentally, the truly dumbest comment you can make about any brand to date. If you ever hear this moronic statement, turn around and walk away... you are in a conversation with a retard. Anybody that says "Patek is Patek", "Rolex is Rolex" or "AP is AP" simply is an idiot, no doubt. What does this mean anyway? That "whatever is whatever" is always great or always bad? What a stupid thing to say... Anyway, let's leave morons aside and continue discussing this latest strike of "genius" by Patek.

The movement is really something that most of us, manual-chrono addicts, were longing for from Patek. 2010 was (and still might be) the year of the 5070 replacement, yet instead of presenting its successor we get hit with a whole truck full-o-nonsense. Nonsense, why? Simple. What woman would buy a 50k watch (about 75k in US currency) that is completely deprived of sex appeal or glamour what-so-ever, and on top it's a manual? Manual!?! Pssst, psssst... guys at Patek, women that like watches and like to buy things like this have tastes closer to men and generally dislike diamonds on a watch. Women that like diamonds on a watch want a watch that is featured in Glamour magazine and definitely must NOT need to be winded every day. Plus, let's face it, this piece is UGLY. It looks like a Daniel Jean-Richard, a Millenary and Aerowatch had a child in a nightmare-love-trangle. Yuck! What a waste of a perfectly beautiful movement.

I sincerely hope that Patek have something good for those of us that are waiting for the 5070's replacement next year. If they don't, many are going to fall on them like a ton of bricks since most already believe they are a year late. Patek's stand at the Basel fair 2009 was already a disappointment.

Well, now what? Should this movement be replacing the 5070's Lemania... don't you think after "this" it is slightly demeaning?

Patek Philippe...

P.s. Incidentally, I am going over the articles and I am just barely done pissing my pants. Apparently the design team was made up entirely of women "... so as to leave nothing to chance". What a pisser!!! They surely "left no chance" instead of "leaving nothing to chance". To make sure I wasn't biased I showed this to my wife, with my best pokerface (I swear!). Needless to say, she just looked at it in disbelief. At the risk of sounding misogynistic, I can honestly hope this "team" does not bless us with more of their creations. This Lady Chrono will be available only at the new Art-deco Salon in Paris (would love to see it. Did I mention that the one in Geneva looks like a brothel?). Expect this 7071R to be at the nº10 de la Place Vendôme a long, long... very long time.

"Quo impuber pernocta excrementado alborea"...*

2009-09-02T11:20:00.013+02:00

Good riddance! I for once, am very happy Audemars Piguet is no longer sponsoring this event (America's Cup). As they say; "It was fun at the beginning..." but exuberant costs and a notable hike in prices just made this sponsorship inviable. The "Alinghi" theme by AP was indeed beginning to smell rancid. Only the first "City of Sails" was really a Blockbuster, the carbon "Team Alinghi" piece did only barely alright while the "Polaris" and "Alinghi" really struggled to be sold.

Personally I am ecstatic that AP have decided to keep their money and hope (pretty-please...) that there are NO more sponsorships in the future of any mainstream/popular events. As I mentioned before, the Alinghi theme was starting to smell more and more like a fish market rather than an exclusive Yacht-Club. I see no reason why AP would need to sponsor events and spend money in publicity stunts instead of using it for investigation. AP have reached all the recognition possible amongst watch lovers/collectors/aficionados and have no capacity to increase production to become a more "commercial" brand in a short time frame. It should be obvious by now that AP have no need to join forces with anybody to sell their watches. The Barrichello II was a hit NOT because of Rubens' driving skills but rather because the watch is a great piece of kit. Let's face it, AP sells regardless and despite Rubens, Arnold, Jay-Z, Sachin, Alinghi, Maserati or any other matter. The market is, amongst the initiated, very well penetrated and since they are not in the position to manufacture and supply to the rest of the world, such expenditures are frivolous at best, especially in the current economic times. AP should shine through its own merits of excellence and not bet on the success of third parties.

Now, there is a negative side to this change of sponsorship. The obvious degrading of the Alinghi series. As mentioned before, some where not hot sellers and I suspect that the arrival of an Alinghi Hublot (soon I bet...) their value will be going down a couple of notches. Since the official announcement, I have received three mails of fellow collectors wanting to sell their Alinghis. Some even the first and most desirable out of the collection. It is ironic that companies that are so brand conscious as watch manufacturers would invest such amounts of money in other companies or ventures where they have no control over decisions. If they only had a bit of sense they would add a clause that would not allow the sponsored party to be sponsored by any competitor for a period of five (or even ten) years, should the sponsoring agreement in the future not be renewed. You might think that this is extreme but when you initially put 8 million Swiss francs (for hot air) and a commitment/relationship of almost a decade on the table to have your name on a small portion of the sail, I do think you are entitled to cover your butt.

Signing with Hublot seems to be almost a vengeance from Alinghi's leadership for AP not agreeing with the new fees for the next America's Cup. By the way, it appears that AP is not alone and other sponsors have already decided to leave the team. Apart from the cost, there was also a certain "unease" about the arrogance of Alinghi's management. I guess that in a world of ungrateful pricks such things are expected. By no means do I know the whole story, nor do I pretend to. Yet here are the facts: AP sponsored the first boat, the "Be HAPpy", a boat to take part in a competition that no European country had won in a century from the only european country with no access to the sea. It was disqualified for several technical reasons (also known as cheating). After this success they come back with the Alinghi and AP supports them yet again. They win and everything is a big success. So big in fact that suddenly there was hardly a boat without a watch manufacturer somewhere on the sails... Now, all of this seems to be forgotten and despite the economic crisis in the luxury sector there is a considerable hike in price to sponsor Alinghi for the 33rd America's Cup. There is no agreement and the result is that Hublot, known to cannibalize the OffShore not only in looks but in strategy, signs the deal. Well, if you had any doubts that Bertarelli is an asshole, now you know for sure.

The moral of the story; You just can't work with assholes... No mater how big and successful they are, eventually you will get shitted upon.

What happens now? Well I hope that dropping the sponsorship of sail related events does not mean that the "marine" inspired line will be discontinued by AP. A proper and new Carbon Sail watch could still be attractive to many. Hell, let's go nuts and make it a regular production model!

Official announcement...

P.s. I can't wait for the first guy to enter an AP Boutique and ask; "Excuse me, do you have one of those Alinghi Hublot for sale?..." Would love to see the sales staff response after the 12th time...

*Latin for; "Who sleeps with children awakes soiled..." In other words; choose your partners wisely.

URWERK "UR-CC1"

2009-07-12T12:40:00.012+02:00

The "King Cobra" is finally here!

OK... I promise this is the last of the "ULTRA EXPENSIVE" pieces I will be commenting about for some time. This URWERK surely deserves more that just a few lines. Yes, after many months of expectation the latest wonder by URWERK does meet the expectations. As I have posted in the past, URWERK has succeeded with the King Cobra where Patek has failed. How many can say this? Very few...

This alternative means to display time is based on two rotating cylinders was indeed attempted by Patek 50 years ago. Whetter they managed it to work is not really certain since Albert's and Cottier's prototype is locked-up in the Patek museum in Geneva. By the way, what an ugly watch... In any case Patek either thought it was not economically plausible, not too Patek'ish... or just like me, they though it was NOT precisely the most attractive piece they ever made. The principle is inspired from Cadillac Cars from the 60's that had lateral speedometer displays. As the cylinders turn the hours and minutes progress displaying the correct time. It is a bit awkward at fist, as with all other URWERKs I guess, yet once you get the idea the time is quite easily readable. First the turning disks, than the rolling dice and now revolving cylinders. What's next? Quite frankly I have no idea. Every time I think that there are no more ways to display time somebody comes along and proves me wrong.

I was one of the few blessed to actually physically see and touch the functional prototype several months ago. I was smitten. The King Cobra is a big watch, but it wears surprisingly well. In any case I doubt that many will wear these since most are going to be kept in their owner's large vaults because they are going to be such a special piece. That is a pity since all the stuff from URWERK, even the most complicated, is actually meant to be used and enjoyed on a regular basis. Bare in mind that up until few years ago ultra-complicated watches where not really capable of working over extended periods of time. A brief interlude; Did you know that until the mid of las century less than 10% of the about 500 Tourbillon watches made actually worked?... Anyway, back to our mater at hand. The King Cobra is a very usable and wearable item and I sure hope to see it worn at least once, even if the odds to find one of 50 amongst 5 billion people is rather slim. Although, I must admit I have come across rarer watches in the past.

The CC1 will be executed 25 times in white and 25 (for 2010) in black. Knowing URWERK you can be sure this amount will be definitive. If you are amongst the lucky ones to have a healthy enough wallet to go after one of these, don't debate for too long. Rest assured that the King Cobra will be one of those watches that will have a preferential spot in the watch Elysium.

URWERK...

A. Lange & Söhne "ZEITWERK"

2009-07-10T15:14:00.007+02:00

I can't disguise that I am very happy to see such a development coming from the house of Lange. Finally something REALLY new from the guys over in Dresden. Not only a way to get your hands on a clientele unknown to them so far but also to re-interest those that already share their philosophy. The new "Zeitwerk" is not just a Lange, it's a great Lange. What is very appreciated is that the Zeitwerk will be joining the catalogue as a regular production item and not a limited model. I can't stress enough the fact that ultra conservative manufacturers need sometimes to go crazy and come up with ideas that are revolutionary to their heritage. I guess the best example would be AP and their Royal Oak. Going "sport-steel" has opened a whole new and before unknown market for them (and others). Developments such as this can result in an interesting and profitable direction. New developments ensure the longevity of the brand. It is those that stay anchored in rancid principles of design and clinging to the past that are likely NOT to survive in more difficult times. The past should be regarded with respect but never as guide to fix one's goals for the future. A vintage edition might work a couple of times yet ultimately you will need to look in the future.

Could this be my first Lange? Quite possibly (however, my accountant (wife) might not entirely agree with the idea). This despite being the white gold version the most attractive to me and I just can't stand rhodium plated white gold... Even though I respect and appreciate practically all of Lange's work I never came across the right Lange for me. The "Datograph" is too thick and the proportions of the case seem just not right to me... The DoubleSplit's face is too boring, especially after somebody at the manufacture decided to remove the red in the power-reserve... The "Lange 1" has the hour and minutes hands on the wrong side of the dial... The "1815" is too small (although the latest one comes closer to being a candidate). The Turbograph is well out of my reach and so is the wonderful Richard Lange "Pour le Merite"... Well, there was always something in the way of adding something as wonderfully executed as a Lange. Until now.

With this DigiGraph... pardon me, Zeitwerk the story changes. It is different in every aspect as a Lange. Considering the complication, the high price seems well in the reasonable range. The Zeitwerk is different while remaining elegant and sporty at the same time. The movement is, as with all Langes, simply sublime. The beauty of the Zeitwerk's movement is probably only second to that of the DoubleSplit. Many might think that the 36 hour power reserve is a bit short. Don't be mistaken, a standard 42 hours power reserve is not much more useful since you still have to wind it every day (because it does not reach the full 48 hours/2 days). Because of the torque requirements needed to move and jump every minute the power reserve had to be shortened to maintain a level of accuracy acceptable to Lange. In any case, the Zeitwerk is equipped with a power-reserve indicator. So that resolves that point. Personally I am a huge fan of long power reserves but NEVER at the expense of accuracy.

On the negative part I still think that the germans get their proportions between thickness and wideness wrong. It is not so bad on the Zeitwerk yet a millimeter wider would have made the case more harmonious. The strap is also a bit thin at the case. The dial could have a bit more color but I guess sobriety was a must in this case like it is in all other Lange Watches.

My only worry is really the jumping minute mechanism. It's just a question of math. Take 60 and multiply by 24, then by 365. You will roughly end up with slightly more than 500,000 jumps a year. Imagine this in ten years? We are talking about close to 5 million jumps if you decide to wear it all the time! I can assure you that if it where any other manufacturer than Lange proposing this I would discard this watch for this reason alone. Yet, it is a Lange, and as far as I know they test their products for quite a long time before officially presenting. It is known in the sector that Lange's former CEO used to wear the prototypes on his wrist for a whole year before releasing it as a product. Fact or fiction, who knows? What I know is that Lange does give a sense of "safety" like a Mercedes. Both are a safe bet in all aspects...

A. Lange & Soehne...

HYBRIS MECHANICA

2009-07-05T14:06:00.009+02:00

Jaeger leCoultre is one of those "Houses" that never cease to amaze me. After the last years almost supernatural development of until now unseen horological exploits there is still room for more. Jaeger, as I have mentioned many times in the past, absolutely rules the market in the midrange complication. You will NOT get movements of this variety and complexity at any other manufacturer. The AMVOX2, Scuadra GMT or even the Duometre are simply unthinkable at these prices under more "prestigious" brand names. There is no question in my mind that Jaeger is by a landslide the most honest manufacture out there. It is undoubtedly one of the more prestigious watch manufacturers of our times. Wether one might like them or not, one thing is certain... they are a great piece of machinery. Yet, it does not share the "glamour" or "bling-bling" that houses like Patek or AP have, but adepts are growing at a steady rate. The advantage of not being a fashion item is that in the long run you only depend on yourself and the customers you have convinced. Contrary to fashion victims there are very loyal and are likely to stick with you for a long time.

After the Triptyque and the GyroTourbillon Jaeger sets the bar to an even higher level. The "Hybris Mechanica" is a jaw dropper. Whether it is the MOST complicated watch to date is generally a difficult statement to back. Here, however, it is not difficult at all. At least you could put it up there in the glorious "top ten" of all time. Don't be confused, that top ten is a very difficult place to be. Patek's calibre 89 and Richard's RM008 are two that I dare put in this category together with the Hybris Mechanica. The other seven spots I let you decide...

Essentially the Hybris Mechanica is a Grande Sonnerie including a Westminster Carillon with four hammers that includes a jumping hour regulator and perpetual calendar as its main functions. Upsss... forgot the flying Tourbillon. Just like in the Duometre the power reserves of the "sonnerie" and watch are separate. A new development is the activation of the repeater by pressing the crown instead of pulling a lateral trigger. The whole lot will be delivered in a special safety vault over 2,000 pounds heavy including a Gyro and a Triptyque. There will be only 30 sets of these available. Instead of getting into too much mechanical and technical details, many of which are not too clear yet, I am posting some pictures for your enjoyment. I will try to get a full technical explanation/resume in English for you. Once I have it, I will post it...

Now, back to business. The price will obviously be completely out of this world and considering a purchase is wishful thinking for all but a few. So why should this watch be of any consequence if there are going to be so few of them and so expensive? Easy. Because like with car prototypes there are things developed on products such as this that might one day find themselves into more affordable watches. Here are some things that jump to my mind when I see the Hybris;

- The crown to activate the Sonnerie. Could this be a way to dispose of the lateral trigger and improve on waterproof ratings on repeaters? Despite new material and miracle rubber gaskets these triggers are a nightmare to adequately waterproof.

- The style and philosophy of the Duometre is patent with the Hybris. This hopefully means that the Duometre "project" is alive and will keep evolving. A great development for watch lovers.

- Jumping hours, retrogrades and regulators could be back at Jaeger. For us watch lovers it would be great to see this in the Duometre philosophy.

- The fact that Jaeger had the BALLS to go ahead with this project despite the current economic situation. Many big projects such as this where put on standby by most other big companies. AP was the other exception. I do not want to be mean but, what novelties did Patek present this year in terns of horological development? A no-show like most others...

- The most surprising and what probably will be eclipsed by the Hybris is the new adjustable "Ardillon" buckle. Wonderful! At last the problem has been tackled and from the looks of it resolved!!! Out of all three variants; the deployant buckle, the butterfly buckle (just like the deployant but with two hinges so the buckle remains in the middle) and the classic ardillon... I always liked the ardillon because it was secure, thiner than a deployant and more comfortable. Except for sports watches the classic ardillon is still the best solution to fasten you strap. One of the problems with classic ardillons occurs in summer with swelling wrists. Most people need to their strap to another hole during summer because of the heat making you wrist swell. This meant that you have to remove the watch, at the risk of dropping it, and set it to a different hole. This also takes a tole on the leather strap causing it to wear much more quickly. With this new ardillon the problem has been solved. You get the flexibility to adjust size for heat without removing the watch and keep the comfort or a traditional ardillon.

Believe it or not, out of all the novelties included in this new marvel this is without a doubt the first I would love to see in regular production models. Hell, the second they have matching metals of this new ardillon for my cases I am getting one for all of my Jaegers!

Jaeger leCoultre...

Another Retirement?

2009-07-05T11:28:00.005+02:00

The Gondolo annual calendar in white gold has mysteriously disappeared from Patek Catalogues... Even if the reference 5135G is still to be seen on their web site, it smells like yet another unannounced retirement. Patek have been known in the past to surprise us with sudden drops of models from their lineup. What reason could have been behind this? Several come to mind;

- The white gold version was just not popular. Personally it was my favorite but I guess most people want to "show" their investment in a watch usually like it to be yellow or rose gold. Platinum people are above good and evil...
- The white gold version was just too similar in looks to the Platinum. This might have turned some Platinum people away from the Annual Gondolo. If it's too similar, it's just not right. Three small diamonds and a light gray circle are just not enough to make it worth the platinum premium price. Watch brands usually reserve the best looking faces for their most expensive models. The gray face is the best looking (IMO) and should have initially been reserved for the Platinum case. Since the white gold Gondolo was presented first, when they realized it was too late.
- The finally have seen the light and stopped production on al white gold "RODIUM TREATED" models! Well, that sounds more like wishful thinking...

In any case, retirement or not, I like Patek's retirement policy. It's just clean and to the point. Now you see it, now you don't. This sometimes causes the market to go a bit mental and the pieces have an immediate increase in value (like with the Nautilus 3712A).

As with most early retirements with Patek, information is scarce. Dealers give you different stories and the official channels are just too important to even consider talking to you. If anybody can confirm this it would be great if you could comment here.

Patek Philippe...

Old School

2009-05-17T21:52:00.012+02:00

There is a wave of new-old classic watchmakers gaining in respect and acceptance amongst collectors. In the much appreciated classic style of the already highly revered Philippe Dufour or Kari Voutilainen, these "new-old" comers are much cheaper but still just as exclusive. Dornblüth, Mosser, Lang & Heyne, Montres Normandes, etc... are a few in this new classic wave, more concerned about doing the stuff that has been working fine until now, only better. The goal is not to waste any time trying to reinvent new ways to do what has been done for the better part of two centuries (and very successfully if you ask me). Using modern tools to reach unknown quality standards at unseen prices is just another way to interpret what modern watch making should be. The new school revolution is undoubtedly led by Richard Mille. His major contribution was to push the limits by including materials and advances that nobody has until recently dared to include in their watches. Who is right? Why not both? I guess this reminds me of the childish feud between those that swear their allegiance to the "Nouvelle Cuisine" or the classic no frills cooking. The T-bone steak versus the Fillet Mignon... personally, I like both. To me, this is a non-issue. I have no problem owning a Philippe Dufour or a Richard Mille. Both horological approaches are respectable and correct in my view. Just because one is right the other must not be necessarily wrong. Another thing is one's personal taste and choice.

It is more than likely that the current economic situation is somewhat responsible for a resurrection of this philosophy. Don't be mistaken, despite sales being back to figures 10 years ago, watches are still selling. However, buyers are still willing to pay big money for watches but more discreet things are in demand. Gold, diamonds and oversize chunky burgers are shoving the first signs of drops in sales. Even markets that were historically strong in the "bling" are starting to change their consumption habits. To be honest, discretion is not the only reason for this sudden drop in the yellow metal. One of the reasons behind this is that many that have been buying watches these last years have been mostly doing so to be seen with the watch. Completely the opposite of watch lovers, aficionados and collectors. Discretion was always a major concern for these buyers. Plus, if the shit hits the fan like it did... real collector still like watches. Granted, cheaper watches if your personal economy is hurt, but you are still in the market. It's like any other hobby that you are passionate about. If you have less money you are likely to just do it less and not completely stop. If on the other hand your purpose was to bee seen with a big shiny thing on your wrist that springs attention and admiration mostly with the wrong people, then you will have no problem in drastically cutting back on watch expenditures to zero.

The only and very unfortunate problem with small sale manufacturers is their poor or in some cases complete lack of proper pictures of their products. Selling their product becomes a difficult task if they don't even communicate on their strong point, like the movement finish. Quite a big handicap if your idea is to transmit emotion. As you can see from the pictures posted here, it's just not what it should be. Trust me, these are the handful of acceptable pictures. The others are well bellow even amateur photography standards. I understand that communication departments are expensive but there must be an effort made or else it will be very complicated to adequately reach customers. Pictures already have a hard time transmitting the full impact of most watches.

A word of advise; If you are interested in "old school" you should make the effort to see these pieces in the flesh. Believe me, they are worth a detour.

Philippe Dufour...
Kari Voutilainenr...
Dornbüth & Sohn...
H. Mosser...
Land & Heyne...
Montres Normandes...

DON RAMON event on the 20th of May...

2009-05-05T12:20:00.004+02:00

As we are getting closer to the 20th, the official presentation of the "Don Ramon de la Cruz", there are several details that are unknown to most.

Those lucky enough to be "Don Ramon" owners will only need to show up at the airport on the day of the presentation to pickup their watch. This means that everything from thereon is organized by AP. Don Ramon owners will be invited to the limousine service, hotel, lunch, entertainment and dinner. The first wave of Don Ramon watches will all be delivered on the day of the presentation. NOT A SINGLE DON RAMON WILL BE DELIVERED BEFORE THIS DATE. There might be pieces still available because many have chosen special numbers. Many of the requested numbers might be delivered later. Those that chose a special number for their Don Ramon and will be delivered after the 20th are still invited to the presentation and following events. The schedule for the Don Ramon presentation is as follows;

2oth of May Pickup at the Madrid Airport and drop-off at the Villa Magna Hotel (***** GL)

14:00 - 20:30 Delivery of the Don Ramon watches to their owners
14:30 - 16:00 Presentation cocktail of the Don Ramon at the AP Boutique Madrid
16:00 - 17:30 Return to the Hotel to rest or go shopping
17:30 - 18:00 Meeting at the AP Boutique and brief presentation to "Bullfights"
18:00 - 18:30 Transfer from the AP Boutique to the Bullfighting arena "Las Ventas"
19:00 - 21:30 Bullfight (optional)
21:30 - 22:00 Transfer from the Bullfighting arena to the Hotel
22:00 - 01:00 Don Ramon dinner for owners and spouses/partners at the Hotel restaurant "Eneko" (one Michelin star)
01:00 After dinner drinks at the Hotel Bar...

It is impressive that AP would take care of their customers from arrival until departure of their customers. Spouses and partners are also invited even if they have not purchased the "Don Ramon Lady" model. The Bullfight might not be very politically correct yet I recommend that you go and see this if you have not. The Madrid arena of "Las Ventas" is considered the Mecca of bullfighting. This does not mean that the bullfight is going to be memorable, you never know...

There are 100 Offshores Gent and 50 Offshores Lady. Both are numbered and have a price of 36,000 Euros. The Gent and Lady Don Ramon will come with a rubber and hornback strap. Before delivery the owner can decide on the size of strap and if they choose their initials "hot-stamped" on the back of the crocodile hornback strap (pretty cool). The options are; small, medium or large. There are no discounts and they do not ship any watches overseas.

If anybody is interested you can contact the Madrid Boutique at +34 91-781-8060. All employees at the Madrid Boutique speak fluent english. Their opening hours are 10:00 to 14:30 and 17:00 to 20:30, Madrid/Paris time.

Audemars Piguet...

P.s. I should charge BIG bucks for this...

Ulysse Nardin "Chairman"

2009-05-05T10:36:00.007+02:00

You would think it is a symptom when a watch manufacturer's main novelty at a fair is a mobile phone. If it is, then I am certain that it is not a good one. When Ulysse Nardin presented the "Chairman" I was sort of surprised to see then embark on this route. Actually, the last watch manufacturer y expected to see in this battle. The design was interesting initially although after further inspection it turns out that the product is flawed in many, many ways.

The first flaw is what in a way makes it special. The kinetic rotor. For one I do not think that this would be an adequate power source for a mobile phone. There is no way that a mobile phone gets the activity that your wrist does. Inside your pocket or on a table the rotor is completely redundant. Hence, if you wish to charge it by means of the rotor you will end up embarking on a rather "obscene" workout. Quite stupid for a phone that will most likely be priced in the absurd range. So, the result is that you paid a whole lot of money to look like a fool once your battery is down... I wonder how this would look in a bar when you are trying to pickup a girl and she has a friend. You need to call your buddy to team up for the kill... It's 2 o'clock in the morning... your battery is almost dead... will you go to the bathroom to give it a good, jerk? I guess I have no need to go any further.

The second flaw is the software. Support will be highly doubtful. Believe me, if they say otherwise they are lying! Software support was less than satisfactory when Vertu first started and they had Nokia behind them. It is a fact that all smartphone software is still crapy and buggy unless you are an iPhone. Lest face it, if you want a smart phone you would go with and iPhone or a Blackberry. If you want a good looking high-end phone you want a Vertu with a straightforward, clean, not-so-buggy Symbian 40 software.

The third and fatal flaw is its size. It just HUMONGOUS! Way larger than an iPhone, any Blackberry, all HTCs and even Sony-Ericsson's P1. Hell, it's practically the size of a PSP!!! In these days you really have to be a whole new level of retarded to come up with something like this and think it will sell. Believe me, in the mobile phone business the LAST thing you want to do is go Panerai!

The design on the other hand is a matter of personal taste. Personally, the more I look at it, the less I like it.

Ulysse Nardin...

Seamaster "Ploprof 1200M"

2009-05-04T13:43:00.011+02:00

The second surprise from Omega at Base. The Ploprof 1200M. Not a very sexy name but the reborn replica is a very attractive watch indeed. The 70's DNA is unmistakable although I would go with anything except that "Milanese" bracelet that apart from not being very becoming it looks more lake a great way to shave your wrist. Hairy dudes be careful!

Unlike the mythical Ploprof from the begging of the 70's this one has doubled its performance from 600 meters to 1,200 meters. Useful? Not really, but what the hell! Why not? Even if wristwatches are not as important for diving today, because they have been replaced by Suntoo or Aladdin diving computers. The Ploprof 1200M is truly a "real" no bullshit diver. Everything is where it should be. Straight to the point with no time wasted on secondary gimmicks.

Unfortunately there is a "but". The price. At around 5,000 Euros (about 6,500 dollars) it is a bit steep for a simple diver that does nothing but go deep. For much less you get you hands on SINN's U2 and that will do the same (actually a little more...) for almost a third of the money. Granted, it is not as sexy as this re-issued vintage yet right now the SINN U2 is still the top in the diver range.

Omega...

Speedmaster "Apollo 11"

2009-05-03T22:46:00.005+02:00

First, I would like to apologize for the long silence but I have been very busy. I am going to resume posting stuff here and attempt to catchup with all the stuff from Basel this year. I hope to be back on track with everything in the next two weeks.

I have always been a fan of the Speedmaster. Historical, mythical, straight to the point and within a reasonable price range. You just can't go wrong even if lately the Swatch Group have been working on this not being true anymore. The "Apollo 11" I must admit I was impressed with at the Basel show.

I was not able to see it in the flesh and look at the back (no time!) yet I like the logo of the Apollo 11 better than the other that have been part of the series. Actually the other are rather crappy decals. This one looks good, really good. Good enough for me to actually go to Omega and take a closer look.

Omega...

Don Ramon

2009-03-26T10:00:00.002+01:00

The new "Don Ramon" is finally in the last stages of manufacturing and will be delivered end of April. UPDATE: The first batch will be delivered simultaneously to the first customers the same day as the official presentation. The event will take place May 20th at the AP Boutique in Madrid. Perhaps the most attractive feature of this piece is the Black Luminova on the hands and numbers. So that you get an idea of what this would look like, let me demonstrate...

LIGHTS ON:

LIGHTS OFF:

As you can see the effect is quite dramatic to say the least. I, for one, am not really a fan of oversized gold watches but this offshore looks more than just acceptable. Rose gold is better than yellow plus the black screws and dark tones of the face and strap become this piece quite well. Personally, I would like to change the strap for either that of a Barrichello II or even the one of the Survivor. Although the Hornback strap is of a less conspicuous design than a Volcano or Safari I think that it has been overdone a little. Many think that the Safari should be the only watch to have this strap. I think that they are right.

There are 100 available exclusively at the recently opened "Don Ramon de la Cruz" Boutique in Madrid. Other AP Boutiques around the world might have a limited number of these too. Boutiques trade pieces amongst each other to supply their local VIP customers with foreign "exotic" pieces so that there is no need to travel abroad.

It is custom for the AP Boutique in Madrid to arrange private transportation for all those that come for a watch. A car with a driver will be waiting for the customers to be picked up at the Madrid airport. Should the stay require to be overnight, then the hotel is arranged as well as the next day drop-off at the airport. Nice detail, especially if you don't know the place and have difficulty with the language. This "new" way to attend customers is part of this Boutique's new philosophy. The idea is to take the service to a whole new level. This goes further than only selling but first to give adequate service to customers.

P.s. By the way... it is not confirmed but it might be that all current/future owners of a Don Ramon will have the "preferential" right to have first pick at the next Don Ramon (if there should be one in the oven...). By preferential I mean that it will be presented first to all the Don Ramon owners, even before the press, so that they might have the possibility to choose numbers etc... Once the previous Don Ramon owners have decided if they choose to get the next watch the remains will be available for all the interested clients. This might sound harsh but it is a way not only to create a link between the customers and the Boutique but also a way to limit speculation. This is not confirmed though...

Audemars Piguet...

Porsche Design "P'6920"

2009-02-15T12:49:00.003+01:00

I wonder... there is nothing really extraordinary about this Valjoux rattrapante, apart from sharing the only good looking "Porsche Design" design by Eterna. At what price will the P'6920 be presented at? Similar products range at around 5,000 € with the IWCs going close to the 12,000€ mark. What about this one?

This new rattrapante takes after the design of the unique Porsche "Indicator". (If you ask me, they should make them all in this design and drop the other crap.) This rattrapante is a very attractive watch. Unlike the Indicator it is of a more humane size. Its proportions are 45 mm wide and 15 mm thick. These proportions are very similar to an AP OffShore. The original Indicator was practically a burger, not by choice of design but because of the complexity of the movement. The chrono indications for minutes and hours are displayed by two rotating disk unlike the classic hands. Probably less efficient when needing a quick read but looks good to me. On the negative side; I would have killed that crummy date indicator at three o'clock, or at least have a date in a small window.

Commercially it is risky that Porsche Design would go ahead and do this piece disregarding the feelings of people that paid a whole lot for an Indicator. This is probably why I have the feeling it will not be cheap. Hence, in this economy, a total disaster. Piss-off their own customers and gain no new ones. Smart...

I guess that the success of this piece ultimately boils down to price. Most other Valjoux rattrapante sold are more prestigious in name (actually, all are!). Especially IWC. So, I would think that this P'6920 should be no more than 12,000€. Compensating for lack prestige is the design of the watch that makes it somewhat different to similar products. Personally I would think that 9,000€ would be a very competitive price and could actually turn this Porsche design to be a hit. Well, if they pretend to go after AP's OffShore market and place this at 15,000€... than it is obvious that there are some people at Eterna smoking the wrong kind of Ganja! But, If they are going to price this in the 19,000€ range than they are headed for a Zenith Defy Xtreme crash!!! Believe me, people are just not THAT retarded.

Porsche Design...

MB & F "HM2 Ceramic"

2009-02-11T12:35:00.006+01:00

Almost forgot! I was finally face -to-face with the new HM2 in its ceramic variant. As expected, it's a great piece!

I must admit that I am a bit disconcerted. I am not really a big fan of "horizontal" watches yet the HM2 has me sold. Maybe because it is actually thin and perfect for a jacket or simply because it transgresses the classic boundaries of watch case designs. I don't know. The only thing I know is that the more I see it, the more I understand it. This coming from a guy that is more and attracted to boooring classical pieces. Weird.

I really think that the MB&F pieces are not marketed the proper way. There is no real sense of what the watch looks like on the wrist. It is imperative for them to have commercial wrist-shots. Professionally made pictures similar to the ones made by Dunhill when selling cufflinks. This would be the only way to really give an idea of size proportion and how well the pieces really sit on the wrist. I have already described the general feel of the watch on the wrist in a previous post (here...) yet unless people can really see the pieces there is little that can be done to convey the real fit of the pieces.

As I mentioned earlier, ceramic in this piece is definitely the way to go. It reduces the visual impact and adds a very welcomed scratch resistance. Perfect combination. Although it looks easy and straightforward to make, I held the ceramic plate in my hand and my first thought was; " this thing must have been a nightmare to machine..!" When asking Max about this he not only corroborated that but told me that for a short while it was uncertain that they could be made at all. Thank good for his persistence they will be made after all. Ufff... close call.

MB & F...

RM004v2: What legends are made of...

2009-02-10T12:30:00.012+01:00

Regardless of what I think of the RM025 "hockey-puck" (sorry, couldn't help it...) there is one aspect here that I find particularly interesting. The removal of the "rattrapante" function from this variant of the RM008 calibre. Oddly, few have commented about that calibre modification and its commercial consequences. This is a very interesting development as far as I am concerned. Could it be that the RM008v2 and especially the RM004v2 are close to see their end? Will they be substituted by the same movement but without the ratrapante complication?

I am almost certain that the RM004v2 is far from being a profitable watch to Richard Mille. Most of the difficulty in this piece is due to the rattrapante complication. Believe me, despite the price, you are getting much more for your money than you are really paying for. When analyzing quantities that can be produced and difficulty in making, this watch should be up in the price range with a Tourbillon. Fortunately for all those who are lucky enough to have one the price is not in that range. (I guess it would be difficult to explain the Tourbillon price without the Tourbillon...) A while back, not having a RM004 would have meant that there was a substantial gap between the first prices (RM005) and the second prices (RM002). Without the RM004 the gap would have been of almost 200k. Don't get me wrong, the RM004 was never meant to be a "filler". It was in fact one of the first projects by RM. To completely design a new Chronograph from scratch posed an immense challenge. to this day I believe that it only saw the light because of political and not commercial reasons. Demand was brutal for the RM004 with 400 outstanding orders and a production limit of 15 to 25 pieces per year... you do the math. With the arrival of the RM011 it was foreseen that demand for the RM004 would calm down. Many that wanted a Richard Mille Chrono would turn for a RM011 instead. Unfortunately, or I should say fortunately, this was not the case. The RM011 went like hot cakes while the demand for the RM004 did not decrease. In fact it has become, despite criticism, a "grail" watch today more than ever. (Surprising, considering its price.) Although them both being chronos by RM (saving some distance...) they simply appeal to two completely different crowds. Hence, the supply/demand problem for the RM004 still persists. RM004s are, despite the crisis, still hard to come by.

With the new RM025 and the removal of the rattrapante complication this could change. I have always thought that the RM004v2 would not last. Manly because of the complexity of the manufacturing. The removal of the rattrapante complication could mean a way to cheapen the product for the customer, make it easier to manufacture and more viable for RM. Quite frankly, apart from the breathtaking beauty of a rattrapante movement what is it really good for? Could it be that many out there would trade that with a flyback, less complicated to manufacture, sturdier and 30k cheaper RM004 version? Or would you not? Could this mean that there could be a RM021,22 or 23 along that line? Hard to say but it would make sense. I am being a bit hypocritical here since I would go for the rattrapante hands down, yet I understand that others would rather have option "B".

Richard Mille...

Linde Werdelin "SpidoLite"

2009-02-09T11:56:00.007+01:00

There sure is a lot of stuff going on at Linde Werdelin lately. Considered the ultimate gadget watch by many, Linde Werdelin is moving into a hole new league with their latest introductions. To be honest, it is hard to look away. The "Sea Instrument" is a great piece of kit and the new "Land Instrument" could leave electronics like the Suunto bitting the dust. Electronics-wise you could find similarities with B&O. Fantastic design, ease of use and functionality are key here. You will always have detractors saying that it is just too expensive and that you can get the same hardware at a lesser price. Yes, could be true, yet ironically all the stuff I own from B&O looks good still today. My twenty year old B&O music system still sits happily in the bedroom, with the consenting approval of my wife that is. Could you say the same about your twenty year old SONY?

Generally in the electronics segment these factors are often overlooked and users get rather complicated, under-designed and untested tools that are many times supplied with instructions booklets the size of telephone listings. When this happens it's simply because they cut the development and testing expenses. The less work they make at the final stage of the product, the more YOU need to work in order to operate the phone, camera, stereo, television, etc... With their two instruments LW have done much of that work for you already. Operating the instruments becomes child's play. Many people overlook the fact that it is the software and testing that take the longest. In some cases this is more expensive than the development of the hardware.

After the very welcomed "Black-DLC" there is a new LW. The "SpidoLite" is not only a new development but also different direction for LW. The open dial titanium SpidoLite is a show by itself, yet with a movement by Svend Andersen they are tackling a whole new kind of crowd. The selection of Svend Andersen for the movement of the SpydoLite is a bit awkward for most yet a very interesting choice. Probably more interesting than if it where any of the usual suspects like Valjoux, Unitas, Vaucher, GP, etc... This choice could actually work since most of us like contradictions. Like a classic independent watchmaker inside a modern sports watch for instance? The black-DLC SpidoLite with the yellow sapphire looks the part. I hope that on the final version it will be like the Milgauss where the green is only predominant on the edges of the sapphire crystal. Prices will be around the 8,000 € for the Svend Andersen version. I have no info on the others yet but expect them to be lower.

Linde Werdelin was a personal bet of mine and I am very happy with the way the company is facing the future. As a watch nut and electronics addict this certainly was a product made for me. With the latest development I can't but agree. The designs look great and give the LWs a new dimension. There are more news on the way to be presented this year. I can't wait to see these in Basel this year.

Linde Werdelin...

P.s. I would like to now what you guys think of these new pieces and LWs new strategy. Right, wrong? Positive and negative comments are welcomed...

URWERK "Tarantula"

2009-02-04T12:22:00.007+01:00

Apart from the Cobra, the star at URWERK this year was the very anticipated "Tarantula". It was worth the wait. I don't cease to be amazed at the versatility of the 103. The options seem to be endless. The 103 is an incombustible machine. The Tarantula is stainless steel treated with AlTiN (Aluminium, Titanium, Nitride). This renders the Tarantula only second hardest after a diamond. The AlTiN finish gives it a mat shine that is different from their previous "BlackBird" versions that where blackened platinum. Both are unique and very different in feel and touch. The Tarantula is also considerably lighter than gold and platinum (obviously...) making it very comfortable to wear. The black effect makes it also look smaller, dramatically smaller than the precious metal versions. It feels like a sports watch despite it being initially a dress piece. In truth, it is so radically different from the classic 103s that getting a Tarantula, even if you already own a rose or white gold 103, does not pose any conflicts. Despite them being the same watch I would not be surprised if most buyers for this piece are already URWERK owners and have no plans to sell their current URWERKs (if they can afford to keep both that is...).

The new open top displays the function of the hour satellites to a maximum. Unlike the previous models the disks rotate several times before reaching the desired time. The classic 103s rotated the disks outside the field of view. The new frame on top of the satellites helps the owner to concentrate on the actual time. Understandable since with all in the top open it would be spectacular (especially at night) yet very confusing for a quick read. I initially feared that "because" of that frame the Luminova would not charge, yet this is unfounded. The Luminova charges to its fullest amount in 30 minutes with a normal light source and should last for over 48 hours. After one hour the intensity will have settled evenly amongst all Luminova indices. This means that after several hours into the night it will be of no consequence that all Luminova is charged or not at the same time. There is actually an upside to this new design. Luminova is perishable and the more you charge it the sooner it will loose performance and start to age. With this new frame you prevent unnecessary and prolonged exposure to direct sunlight.

Despite the Tarantula being one of my favorites this year I can't help but feel that it is time for the 103 to move on. It might be time to start setting the plans for a 104. Sometimes the best way to preserve the past is to look into the future. If there is interest to maintain the unique character on the 103 at a suitable heir would be needed. Too many versions end up confusing customers and stretching the possibilities of collectors. The Tarantula would be the perfect occasion for a transition to a new 100 series URWERK. There is no telling when and what is in URWERK's pipeline. What ever it is I have the feeling it will be more than just notable.

URWERK...

URWERK "Cobra"

2009-02-04T10:40:00.003+01:00

Going to visit URWERK has become one of the highlights of every SIHH. I am still amazed that such a small watchmaker is capable of developing and presenting new things every year. While giants like Jaeger or AP have a wast amount of resources and brainpower, small manufacturers like URWERK that produce about of 200 units per year rely on the proficiency of their founders alone. It must be an incredible effort to be able to bewitch watch lovers year upon year. The new "Cobra" (that will officially be presented in April) simply bogles the mind. To think that this is based on a Prototype by one of the great Patek watch makers is simply extraordinary. When Luis Cottier (father of Patek's "World Time") made this piece, completely out of his traditional path of design, Patek simply was not up to the task nor had the guts to make these. In fact, it is not really clear if the original Cobra actually works. Cottier's Cobra landed in the Patek Philippe museum as an oddball. It is only now, over 50 later that Felix and Martin resuscitate the Cobra.

The idea is to use a linear indication of time with the means of two cylinders. both are placed in parallel and as the rotate they give a linear display of time. Graphically similar to the Cadillacs from the 60's but completely different in concept and in difficulty.

Even if they say that the Cobra is a titanic feat, I am not sure they are yet conscious of their extraordinary achievement. There is no doubt in my mind that Felix and Martin are going to be part of horological history in the future. With understandable doubts in the minds of collectors as to the longevity of brands during hard times such as these, I am certain that URWERK will not only prevail but grow. Martin is a design "monster" and Felix has his feet well planted on earth like few in this business.

In any case, I have seen the piece, there are two working and fully finished pieces and they are simply mind-boggling. Unfortunately it will be presented in April and until then there will be no more info... darn.

URWERK...

Jaeger leCoultre "Grande Reverso"

2009-02-01T12:31:00.015+01:00

The other pleasant novelty of this years SIHH is the oversize and ultra-slim Reverso. I can't begin to tell you how happy I was when these where first rumored to be in the pipeline. At last I had the chance to see them in the flesh. Finally a Reverso that would fit a large size wrist! It was long overdue if you ask me. The mythical Reverso was shrinking these last years due to everything else around it growing. Despite the latest and larger Reversos, they where still not quite the proper size. Even the previous large 8-Day manuals where a tad too small. The introduced Squadra did not really fill that need either. It is a more sporty version of the Reverso but not really a classic Reverso. Now, these new resized pieces are another story. Simply perfect in size while remaining as thin as posible. Exceptionally elegant and refined despite the increase in size. Unlike others that get bigger and often loose in class, the new Reverso actually gains in that respect.

There are two models presented for now. A simple version with a sapphire back and a duo-face in black and white. Both are very aggressively priced with the base starting at slightly over 4,000 € and the duo-face under 7,000 €.

When I see these I can't help but dream for an 8-Day GMT or a Grande Sport Chrono in this large but slim Reverso case. If these work commercially expect more to come in the future.

Jaeger leCoultre...

Enamel...

2009-01-31T11:19:00.005+01:00

For those with special requests Jaeger is pushing its "Enamel Special Request" division more than ever. The pieces are simply breathtaking, even under a 10x loupe. Having people with these skills it would be a shame not to. Reversos with only one side have been personalized with initials, logos and even artwork for quite some time now. This now extends to other products from Jaeger.

You can either personalize a Reverso, Atmos or even a Master Minute Repeater to what ever your heart desires (within the subtle boundaries of taste, that is...). Most request are from paintings owned by collector that wish to have replicated on the watch. Prices vary quite dramatically on a Reverso or an Atmos. The work should range from 14,000 € and upwards on a Reverso to well over 50,000 € on an Atmos depending of the complexity of the drawing and time spent to execute the artwork.

This is probably one of the few times that you value something other than a mechanism on a watch. I don't see myself as a client for something such as this but I admire the work none the less.

Jaeger leCoultre...

Jaeger leCoultre "Navy Seal Diving Alarm"

2009-01-30T16:33:00.005+01:00

There is no sense hiding that Jaeger leCoultre are amongst my favorites. This year instead of presenting a battery of ultra complicated and expensive pieces Jaeger have decided to go with the lover range and produce an offer that will work quite well in these times.

The "Navy Seal Memovox" is a real beauty, some even venture to call it the next Polaris. I would not be surtprised if they where right, this is a great piece! The only thing I do not understand is why this is not a regular production model. I believe Jaeger are passing on the chance to have a permanent best seller in their catalogue.

Perhaps one of the most surprising aspects about it is the incledibly thin looking face. For some magic optical effect the hands and face seen to be very close to the glass making it look quite shallow. This despite being around 12 mm think, like any diver out there. The proportions of the case are very well balanced and even if it is a large 44 mm diver it is not a huge monster. In fact, this could even be worn with long sleeve shirts. Not ideal, but possible. This "Navy Seal" is proof to 300 meters (1,000 feet) and yet the titanium case transmits the sound of the alarm as if it where an AMVOX1. The ceramic bezel works wonders apart from being a "must have" feature by now for a sports watch. It works also to accentuate the relatively shallow perception of the face. The placement of the brand and logo on the inside of the glass, so as to maintain a clean look on the face, works wonders. The classic solution would have been to place them on the turning alarm disk. This solution works better for me. There will be up to four different straps available; Articulated rubber, cordura fibber leather, titanium, moulded rubber and a diver kevlar strap as present in the box.

The list price for this Navy Seal will be 8,900 € which is surprisingly well priced considering precedents such as the Polaris (that was priced at 10,500 €). It will be limited to 1,500. Egoistically, I would have loved these to be much less, yet I expect these to be in such high demand that they might turn out to be to few. Remember that the Compressor Memovox has been discontinued and there is no diver alarm available in their entire catalogue (apart from the Polaris replica, although that would be more a collectors piece). I base my prediction on the fact that this is a product that, like the Polaris, has been demanded by the public for some time. If you need proof that just take a look here (Link here...). As you can see further down, the piece "thought" by Velociphile dates as far back as February 2005 and looks frighteningly familiar.

Jaeger leCoultre...

FERRARI by Panerai

2009-01-29T23:16:00.010+01:00

Now, this could be just another chapter of the X-Files. Taneenoneenoneee... After THREE, yes THREE previous and unsuccessful attempts (Longines, Cartier, Girard-Perregaux)... somebody decided that they HAD to give it another try. What in the name of good would lead one to believe that now this could work? As I predicted a year ago, the "Ferrari by Panerai" has not been a hot item to say the least. Granted, it was a match made in heaven, in theory. It is obvious by now that there is little chemistry between both. Mixing two good things don't always make a great thing. Mix a 21 year old Scotch with a triple distiled Russian premium Vodka and you get a notoriously horrible experience, a headache the size of Nebraska and a sizable bounty on your head in the entire Scottish highlands. Yet the Ferrari by Panerai are quite a good product. If you ask me, I would even dare say that some are better than the regular Panerai. The flaw of this plan was really woven from the start. The attempted to "bank" on Ferrari owners as a strategy was clearly not the way to go. In business, if you expect a sure sell, then better have a contingency plan ready. Ferrari owners, all I know at least, want an OffShore (preferably in gold). Ferrari owners are "status" buyers and Panerai, although widely recognized... just don't cut it.

Unfortunately, the very same thing that was meant to attract sales, the prancing horse, is the very thing that prevents this watch to be a bestseller. Makes sort of sense; if you don't have the car you look like you settled for the watch... if you got the car plus the watch, then you only need a shirt and cap to look like a complete dork. There is nothing wrong with the product, it's impeccable. Don't like all of them but some are actually quite buyable. If it where not for the Ferrari logo I would have not doubted to bounce on the Minerva chrono or even the new "California". (As expected there where NO pictures of that piece in the press kit). This regular PVD-DLC rattrapante chrono is more than just a good buy considering the quality of the face and general finish. Yet... the horse. Don't be surprised that these would sell much better if they just had "Panerai" on them.

I am not sure how long this venture is going to last. What I am certain is that when it is over all these might actually become quite a collectors item. Panerai have a way of getting very collectible if they are bashed by collectors at first and then loved once retired. The latest example was the ceramic Radiomir with the two divers on top of a torpedo (looked like a massive dildo to me). Once they removed that disturbing picture the ceramic Black Seal has been steadily increasing its value. Same thing happened when GP gave up they Ferrari line. Despite them being downright ghastly! I have heard no rummers yet, but the economic situation the way it is it could happen rather sooner that later. If this happens, be ready to snatch one because I suspect they could be very desirable in a not too distant future.

Ferrari by Panerai...

Panerai

2009-01-29T14:46:00.001+01:00

Some so much and others so little... Panerai, unlike Lange, have got their press kit completely wrong. Two discs, one USB key and a whatever gift (that I gladly passed on to my neighbor). No pictures of their two new calibers and many pictures of stuff that looks all the same. I really wish that brands stop giving presents to the press. The only thing it encourages is to have the wrong people attend your happenings for the wrong reasons. I also feel that it is wrong to constantly get presents for doing ones job. It just sends the wrong message. I wonder if any of these brands aware that if the press go to visit them it is only because they want their publicity money? Save the gifts and give them to "real" customers or aficionados. They will surely welcome the gifts with more gratitude.

The most interesting Panerai product this year are the two in-house "Manifatura" movements and the return to the price range that seemed to be abandoned lately by Panerai. I guess the open complaints from diehard Paneristi have had an effect after all. Thank god they listened! Looking at the current economic situation this can't come at a better time. The first to get this new automatic 72 hour power-reserve movement will be a Luminor 1950. The pricing will be just above the 4,000€ mark. Which considering the piece is more than very reasonable. the new Luminor is also fitted with the new bracelet. A big improvement over the previous version.

The two new calibre presented where an automatic to be used as a base calibre in the future and a rattrapante chrono. The only problem I see with both these movements is that one is 8 millimeters think ant the other just nearly reaches one centimeter. This means that if you wish to use the rattrapante movement and you wish to make it water-resistant to 300 meters (30 ATMs) you will end up with a BURGER that would be around TWO centimeters thick. Now, how about their other entry level in-house movement. If it where to be used as a base and a module to be added on top you can easily add an extra 3 millimeters to the equation. Now, I don't get it. Wasn't the trent regarding size and especially the thickness going down..? If you are developing stuff from scratch why wont you make it versatile enough to fit in any future model? A key factor is to make it as thin as can be so that it may fit as many cases as possible. Can you picture a 45 millimeter Radiomir with a 20 mm case? Need I say that there are no pictures of the burgers... sorry, movements in their press kit?

Upssss... forgot Hulk's watch! At a whopping 60 millimeters we have the The "Egiziano"! Nothing to object to it. In fact I like that replicas are made of mythical watches. In this case it is really just an "item" for collector and not really a wearable watch. At 300 units I am not certain many non-collectors will ever get a chance to buy-for-use. Actually, I wonder how long it takes for the first pictures of this "behemoth" on Beckham's wrist are in the media... Even the fellow presenting it admitted that it was just impossible to wear casually on your wrist. I must admit I would have liked them to make it in steel, like the original one, and not in Titanium. Would have also been useful when going out. Somebody get on your case, just throw him your watch. Hit him in the head, hospital journey guaranteed.

Panerai...

A. Lange & Soehne

2009-01-28T13:12:00.008+01:00

I must say that Lange made first place in the best/smartest/useful/intelligent press gift/kit this year. Unlike the useless garbage and tons of paper that you are given at the end of the product presentations (really convenient if you still have miles to walk and seven hours more to go). This time they gave a simple black paper notebook (the kind Colombo used) with all information in it. When I say all, I mean all. The miniature USB key included inside had not only the presented novelties but ALL, yes ALL the current watch catalogue as well. Including high-res pictures of the movements. Simply spectacular. The whole thing fits in your pocket. I only wish that the rest of brands would do the same.

I already reviewed their star of the show, the Richard Lange "Pour le Merite". There is little more to be said other that it is an extraordinary piece. The more I see it the more I find it sublime. Here are some of the pictures of their little "fusée-and-chain" wonder... By the way, the rose gold will, be priced at around 80,000€ which is pretty much what was expected.

Apart from these beauty there is the new 1815 that is now larger at 40mm. Much better if you ask me since its predecessor is by now almost a women sized piece. Like everything that comes from Lange the finishing is simply poetry. The prices star at 14,000€ for all three gold versions. (Incidentally, I was wondering if I should get this 1815 or the Ralph Lauren? Hmmm... tough call.)

You can also bet that the movement of the RL is very similar in finish and design to this Lange (cough, cough...). It is with utter regret to tell you that RL did not add pictures of their calibre in their press kit...

Now that they gave the 1815 a litle push in size waht about the Datograph? I am certain that sales would sore for a 43mm Dato despite the economic situation. Although I love the piece I still find the proportions between thickness and width completely off. It is way too chubby. If their religion does not permit them make a larger case for an already used movement than just take the movement and add a power reserve or double barrel as an excuse. The result would have me camp outside my jeweler like a nerd for an iPhone.

A. Lange & Soehne...

SIHH 2009

2009-01-28T04:39:00.005+01:00

I was going to wait until the end but it makes sense after a request to have a short summary of the general feel of the situation of this years SIHH.

Here is the final Press Release by the SIHH:

Summed up it says that they went in fearing the worst yet things not being as bad as anticipated. Compared to other years I would put attendance closer to a 40% less and not a 20% as mentioned in the release. There are other reasons apart from the "... tough economic climate in the American and Japanese markets..." (believe me, Europe is not that hot either). Essentially the Richemont Group has significantly lowered the number of invited press (I should say bribed, but I won't...), the invites to collectors and guests have been more strict. There has also been a cutdown on dealers that did not meet payments in due time that where obviously not invited. Many of the freelance press (especially from the far east) have not attended due to cost and distance. Bare in mind that the travel time for many of them is around 20 hours to get to Geneva. A good bunch will have chosen to go Basel 2009 instead. Which makes more sense for freelance reporting due to the variety of products and newcomers that Basel offers.

In general there where few new things this year as products are concerned (mind you, they only had 9 months between fairs this year!). There is a feeling of consolidating for now and "wait and see what happens..." further down the line. I know from almost all country managers that things have gone better than expected, which initially looked very grim. More than one feared for their jobs. Buyers have been cautious and realistic when placing orders as well. Let's hope that there are few order cancelations unlike last year.

As far as horology is concerned the star of the show was AP's "ChronAP". The question on ALL the competitor's lips was "... Have you seen AP's chronometer?". Much the same reaction as Jaeger's "Gyrotourbillon" last year. As far as brands are concerned Jaeger leCoutre would be probably the most coherent strategy. They focused on filling holes and adding much awaited pieces to the collection. Their stuff makes sense This year they decided to focus on the more human stuff leaving limited ultra-expensive pieces for a later date. Smart move.

The general outlook for the luxury and super-luxury segments is that things will get better on the financial crisis stabilizes and gradually pics up. This is expected to slowly happen around summer this year (unless several financial institutions go bust in quick succession). For the mid to low range things look a bit more difficult since they are more dependent on the economic crisis which will take considerably longer to heal.

The Swiss watchmaking industry was remarkably quick to the draw when firing people in order to prevent further problems down the line. There is a general feeling that things have changed and what was easy to sell only one year ago is not worth manufacturing at the moment. Tourbillons at any price are gone (about time) and silly experiments have lost their appeal. Due to this crisis the tables have turned and for the first time in many decades the ones holding the better hand are the customers. Up until now it was as if as a customer you granted the "privilege" to purchase their products. Now this has changed, the customers won't buy unless they like. The equation is simple really; You make something I like, you get money. You make something I don't like, you no get money. You no get money, you close business. Simple.

Ralph Lauren

2009-01-27T19:25:00.017+01:00

It becomes very apparent to me that some people in the business think that we as consumers are just a bunch of brain dead morons. Now, that is understandable since there are things out there that get sold no mater what. This year, Ralph Lauren has raised the bar to a whole new level. This is probably the first time that I remember feeling offended at a presentation. To think that I actually had to get up in the morning to see this!

I was pleasantly surprised at first when seeing the pictures from the outside of their stand. No wonder, I expected something in the line of D & G or Tommy Hilfiger. At a first glance the pieces looked very good, with a distinct Cartier and Piaget DNA, but tasteful none the less. No wonder, since RL has more than just good taste. I attempted several times to get the press kit and skip the presentation but with little success. One needed to sit through about 30 minutes of the presentation to get the kit. Little was I to know the almost unbearable torture they where going to subject me to.

Finally the presentation starts and it becomes apparent quite soon that somebody has clearly not done their homework. With a total disregard for potential customers and a blatantly superficial assessment of what watchmaking really means. I was speechless, but mainly sleepy. Was there any research done at all on any of these? I was still a little asleep for the Women's model (sorry it was early in the morning). After a bunch of pictures of pretty people... finally it was the turn of the one piece that caught my eye, the elegant ultra-slim Gentleman's gold watch. Interesting but flawed since the hour and minute hands are so similar that somebody with bad eyesight might have problems distinguishing them. Now, the absolute stunner... the price. This is when my head popped right out of my butt. 13,100 € (I guess it would be around the 18,000 in the US)! This for a men's watch that carries nothing but a shitty Ladies (small) Piaget movement!!! WTF! Who in their right f..ing mind would get this instead of a Calatrava by Patek or a classic piece by Breguet?!?

What sent me in a new dimension of pissed that I have rarely bee in before (at least at a press conference) was the Sport version. Which, by the way, is uglier than raising a hand to your own father... This one carried the very appreciated F.A. Jones calibre by IWC. The crown they designed for this lovely manual movement was polished to a whole new level of slippery. Very smart and thoughtful for the poor idiot that needs to wind it every other day. Unbelievable. The others have Jaeger movements. I would not be surprised if Jerome Lambert's balls shrunk the size of raisins when he saw where his movements where going! Mine surely would have.

Their idea is to have these three lines available at their Flagship stores world wide and exclusive high-end dealers. Yeah, keep dreaming. Dealers are not stupid. In fact one told me when walking by; "... I have the underwear and the shirt. Why would I want the watch?"

In any case, I doubt this will be around for more than three years. Considering the current economic situation and the price at which this rather poor effort has been placed I doubt it will make many future SIHHs. Expect to see a great upsurge in sales at first when placed in their stores world-wide. The real sell-out figures from the stores would be interesting to see.

Ralph Lauren...

P.s. If you think I am being harsh. Believe me, I had to go over this text several times and censor myself.

Limited OVERKILL II

2009-01-27T17:56:00.008+01:00

I can't shake the feeling that the OffShore is going where I don't want it to go. Limited Editions have been going insane and the way the OffShore is marketed simply does not relate to me. Every year I hear the same ol' story that the indiscriminate LEs will be stopped and every year at the fair the thing gets worse and worse. Even thought the color combinations seem endless I just can't get excited by an OffShore anymore unless it is a piece like the EOD, Survivor, Barrichello II, Alinghi Team, Singapore F1, etc... Regular color-moded OffShores are stating to get tiresome at best. Many of these LEs are for dealers that get complacent when it comes to doing their job and selling the regular collection. This is not the way to go. Right now there are more Limited Editions than regular collections models under production for 2009. Insane. To top this there about 8 LEs expected for this year that have a very similar color combo (Red and black). A real pisser. It's clear now to many that this could sooner or later kill the Goose of the Golden egg. Strange enough, commercially successful brands like Rolex or Patek Philippe that have a close to NO Limited Edition policy, still sell. I get the feeling that the regular pieces are being devalued and easily tagged as regular or less important. A very counterproductive side effect over the long run. I am pretty certain that the same level of sales can be achieved even if Limited Editions are stopped. Listening to customer would be a good start.

Fortunately for many (myself included) there is still the RoyalOak. Its reputation is still untarnished and has not varied much over the years. It almost seems to belong to a different line altogether. The Jumbo, the Dual Time and the Chrono are more and more attractive to me. Oddly enough I have been seeing a transition back to the RoyalOak in the last few months.

There is also something to be said regarding the direction which the Offshore is taking as well as the marketing decisions taken lately. I find the recent choice of "ambassadors" questionable at best. The latest is this "Masato" edition. Don't know the guy and will not discuss his proficiency at what he does yet lately AP have gone from Garry Kasparov to what is in essence a glorified thug. The "Masato" is just another tuned OffShore that brings nothing in terms of horology except a fashion statement. This is very much in tune with the Millenary marketing placement. It seems that they have achieved with the OffShore what they intended to do with the Millenary. What a great excuse to kill the Millenary... Just do the "bling" to the max and keep milking away. This would be a fantastic opportunity to bring the "John Schaeffer" back into a regular production model line.

Now, to the Howard Stern mater. Fortunately for whoever decided to place AP at that show, little is known about and of Howard Stern in Europe. I personally was a listener back when I lived in the US and I have no problem in saying that I respect the guy. He was refreshing although vulgar most of the times. Quite a rare bird in an otherwise restricted and over-controlled media. However, the product placement at the "Howard Stern Show" is the least adequate place for AP. Seriously, would you place your product next to the "star-guest" of the show that was invited for her remarkable ability to stick a 12 inch sausage down her throat and still whistle dixie-doodle while being topless? I think not. I would not be surprised if things where to "hAPpen" once Switzerland get a sample and idea of what the show is like. I have a feeling they will not be hAPpy...

Audemars Piguet...

OffShore

2009-01-26T20:52:00.006+01:00

Like last year's RoyalOak Chrono facelift, the Offshore has just been granted two new faces. Love them, both. Surprising is the black Luminova used. A first at AP. Black luminova is not the greatest performance-vise but it is so beautiful when you drive into the darkens of a tunnel. It just glows in a very special way, almost eerie. So far collection pieces have been almost monochromatic so these new faces are refreshing and welcomed.

I am very glad these did not end up as a LE such as a "Tour Auto" or some obscure third-world dealer somewhere in the limitless boundaries of time and space...

Audemars Piguet...

OffShore "Lady Carbon"

2009-01-26T20:28:00.003+01:00

Finally something for the Ladies. Until now the focus on super sporty pieces was manly focused on the Gents. The movement brings nothing new yet it is a first when it comes to the materials and look. Forged carbon and ceramic make this the option for those women that felt a bit neglected by the OffShore. Could this be the next hottest thing after Patek's Twenty-4? Could be... Mind you, I would have done without the diamonds.

Any Ladies out there? What do you think? Is this for you?

Audemars Piguet...

John Schaeffer "Tradition"

2009-01-26T19:35:00.008+01:00

The "John Schaeffer" is back and I dearly hope it is here to stay. Even if there already was one presented last year, these new three new versions seem to make it a collection again. Unfortunately this is not certain since they are under the "Tradition" banner and they could only be a short term reappearance. Personally it's time to retire the Edward Piguet line or at least put it back on the drawing board (preferably on a treadmill to loose some thickness). Nobody wants a thick dress watch. Apparently this is a message that has been difficult to transmit.

All three are equipped with the finest and more "mystical" movements AP can offer. The finishes are well over what is usually expected or seen at AP. My favorite is the John Schaeffer equipped with the 2120 calibre which is the base for the RoyalOak perpetual and the non-date version of the Jumbo's engine. A rare movement by itself. The last time I saw this it was on a skeletonized version of the Jumbo.

I love the vintage look and Art-Deco hour markers. they are clean, well executed and transmit the "magic" like few watches. This is actually the first time I would choose an AP over a Patek in the vintage segment. Unfortunately I find them to be all too large. The same rules do not apply to cushion cases for some reason. Whille 43 mm is optimal on a round case for me, it is just too big on a cushion. I would have made all the 3 mm smaller. Especially the hour minutes model. On the other two there is the excuse that they are historically pocketwatch movements and are considerably larger than regular movements. so the extra headroom is justified in this case.

Apart from being happy to see these again I am perplexed at the price. 51,000$ or 41,000€ seems to be a bit steep, to put it in a mild way. At this price you should require a bit more than hours and minutes. Maybe a jumping hours regulator, an annual calendar or even a manual 8-day power reserve. At that prize range, even in platinum, I would expect at least that.

Audemars Piguet...

Jules Audemars "Chronometer"

2009-01-25T13:16:00.007+01:00

The star of the show at AP, and you could even say at the SIHH, was undoubtedly the internally baptized "ChronAP". Definitely the small talk on the competitors lips. If I may add, in a tense manner in some cases...

For all others this is called "Jules Audemars Watch with Audemars Piguet Escapement"... because this is a bit long and not commercially wise I will stick to calling it "ChronAP" from here on. Quite frankly, it's not very sexy either.

I usually avoid commenting on watches of this price and limited availability since most of the time the only exclusive factor is price, but in this case there is more to it.
This is a pure racing machine. Conceived for the sole purpose of competing in the new time/accuracy venues up ahead. Yes, the competition is back for probably this year and many are preparing for it with anticipation. APRP prepared this in order to take the trophy back home. At 43,200 v/r, what is equivalent to 6 HZ, it could very well do the trick. You should not regard this as an everyday watch but more at the equivalent of a "Stradale" Ferrari or Porsche "GT3". They are an ultra performance version of what already is a great product.

On the negative side, at least for me, I would have liked this to be a regulator and not a small hours and minutes at 12 o'clock. Added is the general comment that it is very similar, too similar, to the Breguet "La Tradition" pieces. This could be true yet the Breguet in turn could be also a copy of watch designs used for several centuries. Unfortunately the Breguet "La Tradition" is a successful product and is latest in many collector's and aficionado's retinas. I guess that the strength of looking "inwards" as a company has had a negative effect in this case. In any case, the finish and details on this piece are miles apart. So is the 260,000$ price tag...

Well, 25 will be made of these a year. I only hope that the new escapement slowly finds its way into all other movements by AP. That would be an extraordinary achievement.

Audemars Piguet...

New format...

2009-01-25T12:47:00.002+01:00

This year I will be giving my report brand by brand. Again, these are only personal opinions that are subject to any debate and criticism.

Enjoy...

SIHH 2009

2009-01-11T21:59:00.007+01:00

This years SIHH surely presents itself interesting. Not because of the novelties but more on the behavior of buyers and sellers. Rumors that there will be substantially less customers this year are well founded. On one side there are many from far away markets that had to choose between Basel 2009 or the SIHH. On the other the Richemont Group have downscaled the fully-treated to plane and hotel customers/press to a bare essential. Another is that many ADs in trouble think that by not showing up they will not be presented with an order sheet. Wrong... Richemont will make sure that all will go through the order sheet. Proof that there will be less attending the venue than before is that the very busy and overbooked Kempinsky Hotel has still rooms readily available.

Personally I am glad since I will be able to examine and see everything in detail instead of running like possessed. I will be able to give a more in depth critique brand-by-brand this year. I was able to see several to be presented novelties and in some cases I am appalled! I will not say anything until I get to see some of them in the flesh but some brands will have a very difficult 2009 to say the least.

My wish for this year is that the industry reacts fast and kill all "TOURBIBULLSHIT" projects and get down to business. They were fast to the trigger when laying off workers... Let's hope they react just as quickly with useless-overrated-complications and spend some R&D on not fully resolved problems such as shockproof movements, magnetism or an even better performance than a Tourbillon at down to earth prices and over their whole collection. Man, I am ranting again! Sorry... Anyway, I will be there for the whole week and eager to return and comment.

Report coming your way soon...

Refining refinement...

2009-01-11T10:54:00.000+01:00

It is not rare that o good product undergo several updates and minor tweaks. I hide not that I already had a weak spot for the HM2, but adding ceramic to the equation brings nothing but advantages. For those that love black watches ceramic is the way to go. PVD and DLC treatments have taken giant strides as durability are concerned but are no way near the resistance of ceramics. As the production gets perfected and more complex forms can be achieved ceramics will find its way in more and more watches from here on. In the case of the HM2 I could even say that this version is but a logical step. Maybe I would have done something more aggressive with a a greener or yellower tone on the markers. Since I have not seen this piece in the flesh yet I could be wrong. So I will not venture and say more until I hold it in my hands.

The look of MB &F's creations are singular and recognizable from afar. A rare treat our days, since most of the stuff out there looks the same. Most classic watch lovers are still a bit "scared" of this new concept yet they will come around. The best way to get an idea is to see one in the flesh. The contrast of the black and the white and red gold is definitely a winer.

I can't wait to see this piece next monday!

MB & F...

CONCEPT "Thematic"

2008-12-23T18:31:00.001+01:00

I must say that I find myself very lucky to be able to have seen and Photographed one of these in the flesh. This particular "Thematic" is the number 12 out of 16. The engraving on the back is based on the HMS Royal Oak vessel from the British Navy. Yes, the very same one that the RoyalOak was inspired upon. Even if the whole Concept Thematic is a series of 16 all are branded "Piece Unique" since they have been had decorated with different motives each time. The case is just like the predecessor, Alacrite 602. The bezel is in Titanium and curved with a concave glass. Thank god the original Kevlar strap is back!

The variation over the original Concept is the nano-fiber baseplate on these. The same as on the Richard Mille High-End models. If the Concept One was stunning, this one will blow your socks off! Surprising is the price, despite being a Piece Unique, it's the same as a "Carbon Concept Watch".

I sincerely hope that this case of the Concept One will continue be and not be replaced by the flat bezel on the "Carbon Concept Watch". What I really wish for 2009 is to NEVER see that cheap, tacky, unforgiving,tasteless, gaudy and ungraceful crocodile bracelet on the Carbon Concept, ever.

Audemars Piguet...

DON RAMON DE LA CRUZ 6

2008-12-18T12:34:00.017+01:00

Last week AP opened its Madrid Boutique, the "Don Ramon de la Cruz". Larger than most other AP Boutiques and with a philosophy that will set precedents. Part of the new approach to the new Don Ramon Boutique is to invite AP fans as well watch lovers to come in and have a drink to enjoy the atmosphere amongst people that share the same passion. The first drink will make you not be able to buy a watch on that day. The unwritten rule on the first day is to introduce the boutique to a guest and not sell a watch to a customer. If you like something you have to come back the next day. Apart from being able to see the watchmakers at work there is a dinning area downstairs where VIPs and good customers will get dinners hosted by AP. The dinners will be prepared by Star Chefs for a maximum of eight people at a time. The first dinner (test) was prepared by Sergi Arola (two Michelin stars). Spectacular...

The displays will change once a week and will be themed with several and very watch unrelated materials. As you might see from the pictures the first week they had a "vegetable" theme and this week it was automotive. There are few watches on display for two reasons; the first, is to give more emphasis on the watch and the second is when you ask for something you will be able to see the whole collection. The selection is quite impressive, I do not know of many places where you will be able to see the Grande Complicacion in its RoyalOak and Jules Audemars version. I have no idea what the theme will be next week. It is very likely that you will not see the same displays twice ever.

An oddity is that the team headed by Ignacio Piera all speak English. Quite a rarity amongst my fellow Spaniards only several years ago. Furthermore, Ignacio (the director) has watchmaking skills and actually knows what he talks about. A rare bird in the trade...

The most peculiar (and my favorite) aspect of the Don Ramon Boutique is a small library that will accept, now hear this, books and catalogues from other brands! Now, to my knowledge there is NO boutique from any brand that will allow this. I guess they are the first to have the guts to do this. I would really love to see a book on Jaeger, Rolex or SINN inside an Omega store. Actually, I double-dare Patek to do this at their boutiques... I think that to be very difficult to say the least. Probably this might be the "anecdote" that best resumes the character of the boutique.

Audemars Piguet...

Richard Lange "Pour le Merite"

2008-12-17T12:42:00.007+01:00

Wow. What a piece. Thankfully, after last year's Cabaret, Lange & Soehne have decided to redeem themselves. Even if it is limited and most are already allocated, whit this Richard lange they have done quite an impressive work of art. Striping the watch to the bare essential (Hours, minutes and seconds) and concentrate on what is really the achievement. The "fusée-and-chain transmission". The predecessor like the "Turbograph" did not play too much emphasis on the FCT complication once you had the watch in hand. Yes, you got a lot of schematics and pictures but little interaction with the complication since you could not see the chain. Now you can very well see the chain from behind. Observing it while winding is really something... The downside to this little work of art will undoubtedly be the price. Expect it to be close to the 100k mark in Euros and well over that in dollars.

Physically the Richard Lange "Pour le Merite" feels well proportioned. Personally I would have added one millimeter to the case and maybe the traditional German 12 in red, but you can't have it all. When holding this Richard Lange you do get a sense of quality and care that is very present when you hold, a Dufour, Voutilainen or Greubel Forsey. It is almost mystical to hold them. Even if the movement is not as spectacular as the Double-Split (still unparalleled in the industry) this Lange has more magic. An unequivocal sign that this one will hurt your valet big time! Either run far, far away or entrust your wife with the key to your cash safe (not sure if that is too smart either...).

At this point I must thank Lange for not doing yet another senseless Tourbillon. I sincerely hope that one of the casualties of the crisis is the Tourbillon in general. Honestly, 90% of the Tourbillon out there are garbage. If you don't believe me, see the prices you get for them in the second hand market. There are exceptions (RM and the Concepts by AP) but the general rule is that you will loose quiet a bundle if one day you decide to part with it. The dumbest complication to transit from the pocket watch to our wrists has been milked to the max in order to justify prices in the 200 Thousand range. The down side to this behavior is that the industry has complicated their own future. With that greedy strategy they have led people to understand that expensive watches MUST and only CAN be a Tourbillon. The result is that many other more elaborate, interesting and useful complications are a hard sale. Now, when you quote a price somewhere above 100 thousand you get the automatic; "Is it a TOURBILLON?" If the answer is no, then you are looked at as if you where retarded. Can't blame the industry for doing their marketing, yet doing it right is another mater. Every monkey out there knows that such thing as a Tourbillon exists. They know that it's expensive yet they have no clue as to what it does, why it does what it does, why it is so hard to make and why it has come to be in the first place.

A. Lange & Söhne...

Silent Arrival

2008-12-15T10:16:00.008+01:00

In case there are any doubts... yes, this is the first picture of the RBIII on the net. As far as I Know there are no official pictures of this piece yet. So for now this "improvised" shot will have to do to quench your thirst for information.

Nothing has been filtered to the press and few people really knew this was coming. Many rumors but no pictures and even less certainty about price and delivery times. The Barrichello IIIs are hitting stores as we speak.The list in the EU is 48,000 €, I guess that in the US you will be close to the 60's mark.

Once I have better and oficial pictures I will post them as soon as I can.

Audemars Piguet...

Motorola "AURA"

2008-12-11T21:01:00.016+01:00

Since we are close to Christmas this review might be a little off topic regarding watches but in season regarding the holidays. Just received the "Aura" as a present last week (I guess it pays being well connected...).

Let me start at the end of my review... Is it worth 2,000$ or 1,500€? Well, yes and no. On one side it is quite a piece of hardware but it will not make me drop my iPhone for it. The reason being that the iPhone as a tool and everyday companion is simply unrivaled. In a few words the iPhone is "Mobile Phone 2.0" while all the rest, including the Aura, are still 1.0 mobile phoning. While some have dramatically increased the level of hardware (Vertu, Mobiado, Meridiist, Gresso...) the software is the same ol' unhelpful crap that we have been blessed with for the last decade. Remove color, fancy sounds and you just have the same software they "all" made a decade ago. The problem is not so much related to a larger screens and more resolution but much more related to common sense. For now only Apple have managed to get close to what we as users really need.

Now back to the Aura. The first impression is that it's a very sexy piece of kit. Not as sturdy as a Vertu but with a screen that will, dare I say it?.. blow you nuts off. Literally. This thing has a resolution of 300 dpi (dots per inch)! In layman's terms, this resolution is what you get out of a printer. Right now, the resolution that you are using on your monitor (while wasting precious time reading my blog) is approximately 72 dpi. In some cases you will get a whooping 120 dpi. I have never seen this kind of resolution on a commercial screen before. Only commercial and military planes have better quality screens on their flight instruments. This makes anything on this phone look like butter. Seriously, contrast and light is so good that it looks like a fake. Like a prototype where the screen is printed on a transparency and lit with an LCD bulb. Eery feeling...

Now, after a week here are my impressions;

I like:
- The screen. So good it's scary.
- The size makes it a much more pleasant alternative to other "high-end" competitors.
- It is a very atractive phone. The graphics have been somewhat improved compared to previous products of the brand.
- You can update the Firmware yourself. Believe me, you will need to do that in the future...
- Reception is quite strong. Motorola do that quite well.
- The clocks as screensavers. Simply magnificent. Just close it and spend 30 seconds looking at it...
- It is not 3G. Completely useless feature in a "glam-phone". Puts a lot of unnecessary strain on battery life. EDGE and GPRS are more than sufficient for wap, sms, and mms.
- The screen. Again, it's so good it's scary.

I don't like:
- Menus are slow. Obviously. The screen has quite a large resolution at 16 million colors. It would take a very large amount of processing power to drive it properly.
- Icons are jumpy. Again, if you don't have enough CPU power just stop making moving icons! It's better to have them fixed instead of jumping around.
- Bluetooth is less than stable when syncing.
- Sound quality is a bit too crisp.
- Interferences can be heard through the speaker when speaking. A big NO NO at this stage of development. This "might" be resolved with an upcoming firmware update.
- Menus are still too clumsy. You need to touch too many buttons to go where you ultimately want to be.
- The center navigation button should have been a wheel. It is a bit too close to other buttons.
- The mini-USB connector. Complete bullshit! (I hate micro and mini USB ports!) Unless they become a standard everywhere they are but a nuisance.
- The battery life is barely 24 hours under moderate use... about 2 hours talk time. It will hold if you charge it every night though. If it had a regular USB port and not a mini-USB you could emergency charge almost anywhere. But no, they HAD to put that fu...ing mini-USB connector...
- The supplied headset is not worth unwrapping.
- I suspect a black PVD version soon. Yes, they guys over at Motorola are soooo predictable sometimes...
- The battery indicator has only three segments. At least five would be adequate.
- The motorola icons are still on the "crapish" side. They urgently need a good designer to redo them.

I miss:
- More options to personalize themes further.
- The front light, around the logo, can't be modified to light in certain conditions etc...
- It would have been awesome to add a chime, repeater, sonerie, etc... function. Synthesize a the sound of a hammer and repeat away!
- A weather forecast.
- A charging stand. this would make you drop it there when you go to bed and take it back fully charged in the morning.

Like I said, the Aura will not make me drop my iPhone as a day-phone, yet it will make me get a second card and use this when I go out at night. The iPhone is a bit large, clumsy and less than sexy. Leaving it at home while going out for the evening and preventing you from checking your email, weather or the latest news will be very welcomed by your date and friends.

My Aura...

P.s. Does Motorola have one of the slowest loading sites on the net or is it just me?