More horological pornography...

The "Tourbillon Tubulaire Architechtural" by Richard Mille.


No need to comment.

PRICE E.U: 388,000 €
Limited to 30 units.

Richard Mille...

URWERK "103.07 Targa"

A slight improvement to the already stunning 103.03 Targa the 103.07 takes the relay. It inherits the stripes of the 103.05 Side View in Platinum. The new variant is only a slight improvement, yet an improvement none the less.

The 103 keeps getting better.

PRICE E.U: 49,000 € aprox.
PRICE U.S: 56,000 $ aprox.

URWERK...

Sweet Transition

It seems that the new AP escapement will not be a futile exercise after all. Unlike many other renowned manufacturers AP seems to be going ahead to integrate this new escapement in their entire movement lineup. The plans today is that at least 75% of all the movement that leave their factory have the new escapement by 2010. The transition will be progressive and is being executed as I write this. It is very likely that regular line models with the new escapement will see the light at the Geneva Show next year.

I would love to see the calibre 2121 with that new upgrade. A reissue of the legendary Jumbo would be a great and more affordable way to introduce this new escapement into society.

Audemars Piguet...

UPDATE: Nautilus 30th Anniversary

Confirmed. There will be a larger normal Nautilus with a chrono movement inside. The case was "spotted" and described as; "... larger and with two holes for the pushbuttons of the chrono movement."

Whether it is the movement of the 5960 or a completelly new chrono remains to be seen. What it won't be is the movement of the 5070 for sure.

God, I hope it's not a LAME tricompax automatic with a date, probably sourced from somebody else...

Patek Philippe...

RADIOMIR "Foudroyante"

I must admit that I am very surprised at the latest developments at Panerai. Especially the Radiomir line is growing at an astounding rate. With the introduction of the 8-day power reserve (with a Jaeger movement), the 8-day GMT (in-house) and recently this new 1/8 seconds chrono rattrapante. I don't know if I have gotten used to incredibly inflated prices but considering what is being offered here this Radiomir is almost a bargain. An 1/8 of a second foudroyante chrono rattrapante for that much money? You certainly don't see this everyday. The design is aggressive yet elegant enough to be mistaken for a classic. The rattrapante button at three o'clock, inside the crown, gives it certain touch that makes the whole thing an awesome watch. My only "but", it's an automatic. I would have loved to see this in a manual movement, I shiver at the thought.

The Radiomir is really becoming a force to be reckoned with. It really looks like Panerai are putting all the nice stuff inside the Radiomir first. Personally I am glad, the Radiomir certainly deserves it.

PRICE: 11,400 €

Panerai...

No 50th Anniversary Memovox?

While the Reverso had its 75th, the Memovox had nothing. There was a project in the works that will finally not see the light, at least not as a 50th Anniversary that is. I guess the Memovox is not such a big money maker for it to deserve a birthday. A true replica of the original Polaris would have been a hit. Many have been waiting for Jaeger to make such a move, yet...

Too bad, they could have made an effort though.

Jaeger leCoultre...

Horological Pornography

Just can't stop staring at it.


This is the rear end of the Lange Dato-Perpetual, few "behinds" look better.

hi-res picture...

SANTOS 100 "Misterioso"

This is really no place for a design watch. Yet since this Santos is mechanical and it has an interesting way to move the hand I will let it slide.

The movement of this Santos is essentially hidden behind the opaque part of the face while the hour and minute hand are attached to transparent disc. The movement is connected to those transparent disk out of your sight to give the impression that the hands are suspended in the air. This effect is quite dramatic. Even though I am not a Cartier fan I must admit I like the fact that it is mechanical and not quartz.

Almost forgot, incidentally it's limited to 120 pieces which for Cartier is very limited.

Cartier...

DUNHILL "Revolette"

Remember those multicolored BIC pen you and I had in back in school? Well it's back. In a nicer, more expensive version that is.


What does this pen have to do with watches? Nothing. I just have a soft spot for Dunhill.

Dunhill...

Great Expectations

In little over a month the new Nautilus will be revealed. On October 11th the 30th anniversary Nautilus will be officially presented. This long awaited moment is being eagerly followed by dealers, collectors and opportunists. All are desperate for information on the new Nautilus for different reasons. Dealers because they desperately need interesting products that are in demand. Collectors will feel the urge to have, own or posses whatever Patek makes (regardless if it is an old lady's hat with a coo-coo clock). Opportunists/Speculators will want to make a quick buck on those that are impatient or just too slow to have ordered one.

It has taken Patek 30 years to rediscover the Nautilus. For some obscure reason the Nautilus has always been neglected, you could even say disrespected by Patek. Why else is the Nautilus presented so late into its 30th anniversary and not in the Basel Fair? Since the original Jumbo 3700 to the Moon-Phase 3712 Patek has made nothing but less than smart moves, and October 11th could be no different. You must go and read Velociphile's blog, he nails it. One could almost think that they where doing this on purpose, just not wanting the Nautilus to go further, being uncomfortable about its success. They seem to transmit the impression that; "... we make classic watches and not sporty modern stuff...". Looking back I simply have no other way to explain it. In spite of some of their unfortunate decisions to change, redesign or discontinue several models, the Nautilus grew. Now, after 30 years they just can't ignore it anymore.

Personally I must admit that the Nautilus has grown on me. Unlike the RoyalOak that most people love, few people hate and almost nobody is indifferent to... the Nautilus does not arise much passion at first. Over time you come to cherish its lines, that are much more 70'ish than the Oak. Maybe this is part of its charm, or maybe it's because it's a sporty Patek.

So what will October 11th bring? Apart from speculation I have no clue (but I will post any material I have since I do not have an agreement with Patek of any kind). However, I have a not so good feeling... but I could be wrong. For now rumor has it that there will be three models; a chrono, an annual calendar and a new 3712... others claim that there will be a chrono with the movement of the 5960 and a simple model (...Jumbo?). The strategy, according to Patek's management, is to go head-to-head against the reign of AP's RoyalOak. Will they succeed in denting their sales? Let's see what happens.

Here is my list of hopes and wishes regarding the "new" 30 anniversary Nauty:

I HOPE;
... they don't use the occasion to raise the average price range of the large men's models by 10 to 20 thousand.
... they don't just make Gold and Platinum models. These materials are a contradiction in a sports watch.
... they don't start using "delicate" movements that are complicated but not really suited for a more "active" lifestyle.
... they don't go the OffShore way and give the Nautilus just a shot of steroids.

I WISH ;
... they make the original Jumbo again. An exact unaltered replica of the 1976 Jumbo, in steel of course.
... they make a "World Timer" version in the Nautilus line.
... they make'em waterproof to 100 meters. Sport watches should have that depth rating at least. This would mean that you could go snorkeling with your Nautilus worry free.
... they use metals more adequate to what a sport watch should be. Ceramics, Alacrite, Titanium, Zalium, Liquid Hydrogen hardened steel, etc... These are only a few examples, expensive and cheap, of metals more adequate for a watch that is going to more punishment than your classic gold leather model.
... even if there is a more modern slightly redesigned/modern Nautilus, they maintain the classic Nautilus shape as an option, just in case we don't like the new stuff.

Now, the difference between "I HOPE" and "I WISH" is simple. I hope, is what I have a feeling they WILL do... and I will not like it. I wish, is what I believe they WON'T do... yet would be nice if they did.

In any case you can be certain that whatever Patek do, they will sell no matter what. Until October 11th I will be on the hunt for pictures and info, if I have any I will post them.

Patek Philippe...

Limited OVERKILL?

I don't know if this is an atempt of AP to lure customers away from regular Jeweler and dealers into the AP Boutiques, but I am not sure if so many LEs are becoming a problem for the brand in general. Here is a sneak peek at the upcoming "Diver" from AP, courtesy of Thomas Mao and ThePuristS.

It was only last week when an official authorized dealer complained that everybody that came through the door for an AP asked about the T3, the Montoya, the Barrichello, the City of Sales, the Polaris, etc... Regular production models are becoming increasingly harder to sell. To be honest, why would you buy a regular watch if there are several "more exclusive" models that will also loose less market value? You are going to go either for the limited edition of the moment or wait for one, at this rate it's likely that one will be made close to what your heart desires. Not too long ago the RoyalOak was a very exclusive watch, today I am not certain this is true anymore.

Unless AP revise their position regarding Limited Editions I would not be surprised they could run into trouble. A solution could be to either reduce the quantities of limited editions (100 units instead of 1,000) or completely stop them, at least for a while. Again, 1,000 units in AP is not limited! With all this LE overkill regular production models are at risk to become banal? Nobody wants to own a banal watch for several thousands of dollars/euros.

p.s. Guys get your act straight, the new Nautilus is close and Patek is out for blood! ... so I am told...

Audemars Piguet...

ABOUT TO LAND; Jaeger leCoultre "AMVOX2"

After a long delay (3 months) the AMVOX2 is finally about to reach the stores. First deliveries are expected in October. I am not certain (especially after predicting that the AMVOX1 R-Alarm would be a hit) but I don't think this one will be on displays for long. Since it is such a "different" watch for a Jaeger I suspect it will be a collector's favorite. The first PVD'ed Jaeger.

It is fitted with a altered calibre (751) that will not be produced in a regular production model. If this is so, this could very well become the "Paul Newman" of all Jaegers. However, the limited production of this movement is only a promise for now. Time will tell if Jaeger don't include this watch in their regular product line.

PRICE E.U: 12,500€ aprox.
PRICE U.S: 15,000$ aprox.

Jaeger leCoultre...
review...

NOKIA 8800 "Sirocco"

Nokia is about to unleash its 8800. First the VERTU "Constellation", then the 8800 Titanium Special Edition and now the Sirocco.

This improved version of the 8800 has a 2 megapixel camera, a slightly better battery life and something described as a "premium user interface". Premium user interface... hummm, does that mean that all other Nokia phones are less than premium? Interesting, I wonder if the Vertu "Constellation" is worth it at all. It was meant to be a better and improved version of the 8800 a way to fill a gap between the 8800 and the Vertu "Ascent", but since Nokia is already doing that... why bother? For the Concierge service, you say! Well, you don't need to have a Vertu to have Concierge service since it can be contracted by anybody with any kind of phone. Yes the Concierge service is really subcontracted by Nokia, it costs about a thousand bucks a year for something that unless you live in the UK or US is a total waste of your well earned money. The only advantage now over the 8800 is that the Vertu is quadband, but I suspect that there is a 8800i in the works that will have that feature included.

Other than that it's the same'ol 8800.

p.s. I swear I am not going to mention phones again... for the rest of this month.

press release...

This is what I call limited!

This is one of those watches that unless you know beforehand it will be near impossible to get your hands on it. Limited to 25 pieces this RoyalOak "Montreux Grand Prix 2006" I am afraid will be owned by collectors that wish to complete their collection. Although some will popup here and there I simply have clue yet of its price, I can only guess it will be more expensive than a regular chrono. Since it is limited to 25 pieces I suppose that it will go above the current market price of a "City of Sales". My best guess is that, if you are interested, you ask at your local AP boutique.

Audemars Piguet...

Special What?

Lately brands are making many limited editions that I would not call limited at all. Most of them end up doing quiet well but to me a 1.000 or so RoyalOaks or 300 Richard Milles is NOT what I would call limited. If these numbers where by Rolex or Omega I would call them Limited since their production numbers are considerably higher. At these numbers I would rather call them "popular models with a finite production run". Hummm... I guess that this definition would not be very commercial, so scratch that idea. I just can't stand things that are called "Special Edition". What does that mean?... we are going to produce an unknown amount of this model, that is incidentally a bit nicer than the regular one, for a little more money and until sales don't do so well anymore...? How stupid is that? I really hope never to see that on a watch. The Nokia 8800 Titanium Special Edition would be an example...

Note: The 8800 has improved a great deal since its first appearance a year ago. If you have one make sure you have the latest firmware version 4.10 on it. the new version makes the 8800 actually work! Except for the limited battery life it is a great phone (finally after proper software). You can check your software version by pressing *#0000# and the display should show your latest software version.

Nokia...

Sick of your TriCompax?

I can't help but notice how more and more alternatives to the classic tricompax chronos are just popping up. If like me you just don't get any kicks out of the classic chrono and still need to time your eggs or tea in the morning, there are number of options for you to be slightly different. Yes, several new choices that are a refreshing way of timing something. It's very typical of the watch industry so prices range from affordable to the absurd, as always I guess.

First the reappearance of the manual bicompax like Lange's Datograph and Double Split or WEMPE's Radiomir Anniversary, then the mono-pushers like the MIH, the spectacular Porsche Indicator with its digital but mechanical display, then the the integration of the minutes and hour hand in Patek's 5960, the appearance of several retrograde chronos like the Genta Cuatro Retro or Kunz Chrono Sport and last but not least the Jaeger AMVOX2 with its alternative start/stop and reset mechanism.


Personally I am glad that this is so since I just can't stand boooring chronos anymore. I would rather welcome a power reserve or GMT complication that I find much more useful. Other than timing the pizza delivery boy I just have no use for a chrono, except for aesthetic reasons that is. Some watches just look great with three buttons instead of one... others just don't. At this point I just welcome any variation of the classic chrono. What strikes me as odd is that most of these re-thought chronos are not that outrageously expensive inspire of the fact that many had to go to the drawing board quiet extensively. That in Switzerland is very, very expensive. Without going into details like modules, ETA-based or Valjoux-based a new movement (or module) takes about 2 years to become reality, plus a huge bag of money.

I guess that there will be more news regarding "alternative" chronographs in the following months. I am especially eager to see the long rumored and awaited RM011 by Richard Mille. Knowing the man I am almost certain that it will not be just another "run of the mill" chrono.






A. Lange & Söhne...
Patek Philippe...
MIH...
WEMPE...
Porsche...
Gerald Genta...
Pierre Kunz...
Jaeger leCoultre...
Richard Mille...

PIERRE KUNZ "Chrono Sport"

Just could not believe my eyes... a really cool Chrono Sport by Kunz. Although it's on the large side, a bit to big for most, it is a very cool watch to play with. The double chrono retrograde and the shifting hour markers give it a very futuristic feeling. Compared to other "fancy" chronos out there this one is very aggressively priced. Kunz's steel watches are becoming increasingly interesting... and there is something about that carbon fibber mesh that hypnotizes most of us guys. In my case, on motorbikes it just dives me to insanity.

God knows I am not a fan of "WatchLand" (Frank Muller, CVSTOS, European and Pierre Kunz) but this does not mean that they should not be praised when it need to be. I must admit that although it's difficult I can't help but like this PK. The AM/PM or day/night indicator mechanism is simply brilliant. The point of this is to have the hours from 6 PM until 6 AM with luminova on them. Instead of having the typical day/night indicator with your classic modified moon-phase disk that shows a moon and sun, you can simply look at the hours. Is this really useful? No, but the way the hour markers jump into place is simply sublime. The entire look and feel of the watch is very well put together. The view of the retrograde chrono minutes and hour hands is just better that great. The only downside is it's large size. even if it is a 44 mm, it is a very large 44 mm if you ask me. This I am afraid will not be seen in something smaller due to the thickness of the movement. If they would make this smaller the watch would inevitably look "chubby" since the thickness would have to remain the same.

The other surprising aspect is it's price, at least in my opinion. Such a new and relatively complicated watch at 14,000€/17,000$ list is very reasonable. Some give way less for much more money.

PERSONAL VERDICT: Very cool watch. Too large for me but very cool none the less.

Pierre Kunz...

Deja vu...

When is se the RM005-FM I can't help but get that itchy feeling. Yes, that weird feeling that although I am not 100% convinced it is a watch for me it might though be a very interesting watch to own in the future. Inevitably I would regret my decision if I didn't go for it.

It's the same felling I had when I decided NOT to get the OffShore "End of Days", big mistake. Actually, both share many similarities. They are both Limited Editions, although 300 and 500 respectively are not what I would call limited at that price point and total production numbers. Both look more like funky sumer watches and don't really reflect an expensive feeling, back then the EOD looked like a citizen diver and the FM looks like a LEGO watch. Both deviate substantially from the other lineup, the FM with the sandblasted finish and the EOD with the PVD coating. Both have something yellow in them. Both have detractors at first and fans later...

Looking at these similarities I can't help but wonder if the FM will follow the EOD and almost triple in value over time. My only negative point would be that the FM is at a much higher price point than the EOD was, which by todays standards could be considered a bargain. Regular production watches that start at the 30's range usually don't ever go beyond their list price (except for some very rare Pateks or other vintage watches of course) even if they are LEs. Will the FM ever be worth something in the 90's? I sincerely doubt that, but maybe in 30 years... with inflation who knows.



Richard Mille...
Audemars Piguet...

NUBEO "Black JellyFish"

This new comer seems to have its ideas straight. Not just a flashy gimmicky design or another cool summer watch, the Nubeo "Medusse" project seems to be taking shape. The case construction and attention to manufacturing details are unusual at these price points. No mater the size and weight of the Medusse, the curved back of the watch makes it comfortable for anybody. The ladies models are particularly interesting and become a more sensible option to the AP Lady Chronos that cost a fortune. Plus, if you give one to your girlfriend/wife/boyfriend/friend you just won't get heart arrhythmia when he/she takes it to the beach or engages in other activities that are not appropriate for outrageously expensive time pieces.

A great balance between fun, summer, price and durability. Its extravagant design might not be of everybody's taste but you are getting your moneys worth in terms of quality. One thing is certain though, lately manufacturers are more busy copying than creating (CVSTOS for instance), the Jellyfish is not a copy of something else... thanks for that guys.

Nubeo...

VERTU "Constellation"

This new VERTU "Constellation" will be presented next month around the world. I must admit that I am not impressed, and also a bit disappointed. Not impressed because at a first look it seems to be a Nokia 8800 dressed up in drag at four times the price. Disappointed because initially the idea behind VERTU was to have a very well made and durable shell that can be upgraded via the insides once there was better electronics. With the introduction of new models this whole philosophy goes down the drain. The way things look now is that they will be more interested in selling new phones and updates for existing models will cease to be priority.


I will wait to have and surf one for a while before I pass final judgement.

more details...

VERTU