AMVOX 4?

Like many that follow, admire and respect Jaeger's work I am tempted to make predictions from time to time. Dreaming of how great it would be to have a ... with a ... I guess many of us do this all the time. Since my previous predictions was right (apart from rather obvious) regarding the AMVOX 3 I am tempted to make a prediction regarding the AMVOX 4. My bet would be the new Memovox movement that has seen the light inside the "GeoVox" but without the Geo. Maybe even modified to have all buttons on the same side... or maybe not. What I am certain would be awesome is the PVD look of the AMVOX 2 with this new Memovox movement, and in a 42 mm case if I might add. A little more sobriety could go a long way here. Any bets anybody?

details...
Jaeger leCoultre...

P.s. Today is Friday the 16th of February, 2007... just wanted to mention this in case somebody "claims" (like with my AMVOX 3 prediction) I got the scoop from inside sources.

Cheeeesy girl...

I just can't help it but sometimes I wonder if the management of big companies take any time at all to look at the publicity they buy. I don't know what the guy that edited this "Viceroy" spot had on his mind, unless he thought that having Shakira pick cheese-balls between her toes was representative of the brand. Word of advice: If you are one of those that think this is sexy, please make an appointment with your shrink, you have a serious cheese fetish! In some cultures, mine included, it is considered DISGUSTING to play with ones foot while talking to somebody.

To be honest, the first time I saw the spot (and ever since) the whole commercial smelled like feet. Maybe they should have pitched a cheese fondu franchise instead. Oh no! (Now I am picturing her rubbing chunks of bread between her toes...) see?.. now I vomited.

Another one bites the dust...

Because of some mysterious misunderstanding (... upsss!) many have had the chance to get a sneak peak at one of the novelties to be introduced at this years Geneva show. Apparently the pictures of the new "GeoVox" where under embargo until the 2nd of April (sources tell me that the date is on the 19th of March now). They have now hastily been removed. They only did not count on Velociphile... jejeje (maliciously rubbing my hands). He was quick to the draw and has fortunately stored and Bloged the picture to make sure that everybody see the "horror" that will soon see the light at Jaeger. Well done V!!!

I have nothing against Valentino Rossi, actually I believe like many that he is most likely the best motorcycle pilot of all times. Now, what I certainly don't share are his looks and fashion sense. Just because I admire the guy's achievements and skill that does not mean that I have to go and fix myself a look like his... or do I? There is little doubt that he has a striking charisma, yes, but every time I see him on TV I get the sense that the "kid" needs a bath and a good shave. At barely 100 pounds I could understand that he is a sex symbol for slightly mentally unbalanced Manga-loving teens but he is definitely no Clooney or Brosnan... or is he? (If I have any female readers... here is where you can correct me if I am wrong). To me it would be like choosing Kate Moss over Gisele Bündchen.


(I know it's unfair, but I couldn't help myself...)

Now, why would I do that?!? They are both international supermodels with very successful careers, but unless I was completely deranged and had a low self esteem problem my pick would be Gisele. Which one would you choose? I don't see too many guys raising their hands for Kate... So why fashion a watch to his look and not just keep his deeds in mind? I guess that Jaeger is trying to fish for customers outside their usual crowd. Logical you might think... but didn't they try that with the AMVOX R-Alarm? As far as I know it was no success, actually far from it. If they keep insisting they are going to go the Zenith route in no time and add "red fluffy hair" to their watches any time soon.

Looking at it again I must admit that this LE is a very nasty surprise. I love Jaeger's Memovox movements and would have eventually fallen for this one in due time (if it where a regular production model). Now, even if there is a non Rossi edition I just have no incentive to get this watch anymore. I guess that just spared me a trip to the money tree, as well as another headache from my future wife.

Jaeger leCoultre...

UPDATE: The pictures are back up again.

URWERK 201 "Blackshark"

Just like the 103 the 201 will have a Platinum PVD'ed version. This "thing" sends shivers down my spine. At this point I don't know if I am just biased or what ever the guys at URWERK come out with I just think is awesome. I wish there is a more "affordable" URWERK in the future. I told Felix many times that a 102 in PVD'ed steel and a price tag under 10K would be a real killer. Unfortunately, Felix's idea is not to mass produce his watches (and I don't blame him). He believes that any manufacture that crosses the 500 pieces per year mark makes looses integrity. At these quantities it makes it impossible to properly control the quality of all the produced watches. To be honest, I think he is right. Many other manufacturers have crossed that line and things do change for the worse. This year URWERK will reach about 250 pieces (of the 103's and 201's altogether) and the 500 mark will not be reached for several years.

The first Blackbird created quiet a stir and despite its very high price tag it was in much higher demand than any other URWERK to date. Things will be no different with this one. There will be only 10 pieces and people are already lining up. This means that by the time it reaches the stores it will already be gone.

There is a great 201 presentation video in Horomundi that illustrates the function of the telescopic hand. Be patient, the demonstration is around the middle of the video, don't miss this!

URWERK...

OffShore "VOLCANO"

In order to quiet some critics regarding the sometimes overrated "in-house dilemma" with the Offshore, AP have just coughedup this new in-house movement. Since this is one of their most popular movements, it was only a mater of time that they eventually make it their own. I guess the "Volcano" is only the beginning of the transition of all OffShores to the new 3126/3840 calibre.

Now, many fanatics are ready to plunge themselves in a metaphysical debate (and keep ballbusting...) about the profound and troubling intricacies regarding the modular vs. the integrated movement construction bla bla bla... Hey, I have an idea! We should all pitch in to make a sort of Mad Max "thunder-dome". We put them in there, two at a time, and then let them beat themselves to death with long soft foam sticks. Whoever gets tired first looses the argument. What do you think?

Ejem... almost forgot. It sure looks like the color combos at AP are running out. Is it just me, or are the later Offshore models stating to get on the "freakish" side? Incredibly, this one compared to some others I have seen is quite conservative (especially some LEs made for Jewelers). Not sure if it is such a good idea to make the OffShore so colorful. It's great to make the OffShore more modern, however... this will also make it an item that will eventually loose its appeal.

The Volcano will be a regular collection model (thanks for that!!!) and is expected to be shipped this month world wide. Only 300 are to be made this year. The price should be the same or in very close vicinity of the current OffShores.

Here is more info on the soon to be retired 2326/2840 calibre. Tapestry of Time...

Audemars Piguet...

BRACE YOURSELVES!!!

... for the "Team Alinghi" Offshore is coming! I have had a peak at the new Offshore to be presented in little over a month from now. All I can guarantee you is that it will NOT leave anybody indifferent. While more extravagant watch lovers will find it breathtaking I am certain that the classical watch crowd will find it absolutely horrifying.

Unfortunately this time I have have been sworn to absolute secrecy and can't divulge or even describe the piece. Darn... What I can tell you is that if you liked the "Montoya" or the "EOD" this is definitely your piece. The Alinghi Team is the most aggressive Oak to date, so aggressive in fact that it makes the Montoya look as classical as a Jumbo. If you want me to be even blunter... then I would say that the Team Alinghi is to the Montoya what Attilah the Hun is to Marie Antoinette. Definitely not a ladies watch.

I suggest you RUN to the nearest Official Dealer and put a down payment on it. Trust me, you want to do this today!

Audemars Piguet...

Apple "iPhone"

It was about time that somebody kick Nokia, Samsung and SonyEricsson where it hurts. For years mobile phone users have endured crummy, ugly and ineffective hybrids called "smartphones". When these smartphones came along it looked like things where finally getting close to what we a power-user really needed. WRONG! These new smartphones where bad palms and even worse mobile phones. They are slow, ugly and skittish to say the least. Symbian and Windows mobile are absolutely horrible to work with, and even after years of being in the market they still don't give the impression of a throughly thought out product. Then came RIM's Blackberry Pearl. The Pearl is the first somewhat successful attempt at a slightly sexy and comfortable smartphone. It's not perfect but it's darn close!

Recently, on the 11th of January, Jobs presented what could be the answer to all our prayers, the iPhone. It looks promising indeed. At least the software does, the outside is another mater. I am not very fond of the outside, it just looks like a piece of hardware that you might get sick off rather sooner than later. Unlike the iPod the iPhone's design does not convey any sense of glamour at all. It just looks like any of the thousands of palms that are out there already. Mind you, the is no such thing as a glamourous Palm in the market today so right now this does not seem to be a concern. The software on the other hand looks mighty strong. Many new options have been added that should have been part of mobile phones quite some time ago. Personally I don't welcome the iPod integration and would have liked a smaller phone with and even larger battery life. One of the biggest problems with smartphones to date is processor power. I am not certain that with this size and expected battery life that the software will run smoothly. All other smartphones are incredibly easy to crash, especially if you add more software. To be honest I doubt that the iPhone will deliver better performance than what is out there today. I have not been able to play with one yet but experience in the past has been that too much software in a relatively limited hardware enclosure will give you problems if you are a "power user" and milk this baby for all its functions. So right now I am just taking down names of all those kissass reporters that claim that the iPhone works flawlessly etc... manly to remove them from my "respectable" list. Like with many things there are many to lineup to praise the new born child, just like there are many to put it down. I would rather wait and decide after several weeks of test driving the item in question.


What I like (so far):

- Somebody finally has taken smartphones seriously.
- Firmware and software updates via the Internet. No need to go begging a nerdy pimply bonehead to update the firmware of your phone right then and there.
- The software looks clean all around. Unlike Symbian and Windows Mobile there are no menus that suddenly look like DOS.
- You can view or hear your Podcasts on the way to work.
- The screen has the resolution and is good enough to really be used for things other than only a phone.


What I don't like (so far):

- The outside look is less than sexy. Quite a disappointment compared to previous Apple products. Weak performance in that respect.
- There are no independent LEDs that can be programed to tell you if your battery is low, you got an sms or have missed calls. Having to turn on the screen every time to check is a pain.
- Does not have a "physical" key lock button. Not sure how practical the virtual unlock button will be.
- I doubt that greasy fingers, especially after a dozen buffalo wings, will be able to make the touch screen perform adequately.


What I HATE:

- Operator locked! I absolutely can't stand that Apple have brought the Operators into the equation. I guess that it was inevitable since the new iPhone has new options like visual voice mail that requires some work on the part of the operator. However, if Cigular update their network for this feature that does not mean that anybody else will. Especially in Europe where new developments are not really adopted, or at least take longer to be implemented. If Apple intends to work with operators to improve the functionality of their iPhone then their are in for a nasty surprise. Nokia and SonyEricsson (definitely power players in mobile phones) have tried many "improvements" such as this in the past... all their attempts fell on deaf ears and most countries around the world have only sms, mms and some gprs as extra features to voice calls. If the much bigger boys like Nokia and SonyEricsson have not managed to do anything it's very unlikely that Apple will. Good luck Steve!

I any case there is still work to be done. I must admit that I am much more exited that Apple has entered the mobile phone market that in the iPhone itself. That to me is the big news. I am glad that somebody addressed the issue and is forcing the other two to really improve. I am excited to se what Symbian and Windows mobile do to counteract Apple's creation.

iPhone...

URWERK 201 "HammerHead"

Surely the year can't start any better than this. The 2.0 version of the OpusV. The new 200 series by URWERK is simply stunning. Many of us expected something spectacular and this really lives up to the expectations. I particularly enjoy the "use indicator" on the back (will try to post these soon). This is an absolute novelty: apart from the 5 year "service indicator" like the OpusV, the 201 actually keeps track of the time you have been wearing/using the watch for up to 90 years (118 if you want to be precise). Not really useful on a daily basis but it's things like that that make you "almost" build a personal relationship with an object.

URWERK is certainly developing into a very respectable watchmaker. With a very serious and cautious approach they are very appreciated by connoisseurs and watch lovers everywhere. Like with other URWERK models, pictures don't do them any justice.

URWERK...

New year, new hope.

There are many interesting things ahead for us in 2007. The RM011, the AMVOX3, URWERK's Hammer Head, Audemars's Team Alinghi, and lately I hear that the boys at Lange might be cooking up something like a 42 mm Dato... Things look particularly interesting with Jaeger's new Diver lineup based upon the ever so revered "Polaris". However I would not expect an exact replica since the AMVOX1 is already very similar to the original Polaris from the 60's.

It is very unfortunate though that I will not be able to go to Basel/Geneva this year (... getting married). However, I will be monitoring developments closely and reporting them once they are available.
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Almost forgot, I have a request for 2007 to "webmasters" of other sites and forums: I have NO problem with anybody using, taking and posting any information that is displayed here, I even have NO problem with "you guys" not mentioning the source... but taking this material and claiming that it is "your" exclusive when the pictures where taken from this Blog... that, I have a problem with. I especially recall the first pictures I posted on the 30 Anniversary Nautilus. I don´t like pointing fingers, but some forums took the pictures, added a watermark with their name and made them their exclusive. How do I know that they came from me? Simple, they did not bother changing the size of the pictures that I posted.

Countdowns...

Merry Christmas!!!

Dear fellow Bloggers and Readers,

I wish all of you a great Christmas and a most fantastic New Year. Let's hope that Santa brings many watches to you all...

P.S. I will be slowing the rate of posts here until the holiday season is over. My family and friends will be getting the most of my attention this holiday season.

Mirror mirror on the wall, who's the RAREST of them all..?

With the speculative bubble around the 3712 many expected that the 5712 would cause this bubble to burst. Well it did... not! It only deflated slightly. lately it seems that its price is rising again. Many hoped that the price of the 3712 would drop, to either get one for themselves or have greedy speculators and gray market merchants bite the dust. Sorry, not this time. I guest that the Moonphase Nautty will not be a bargain just yet. Yes, unbelievably the older 3712 trades at higher prices than the new 5712!

How can this be? It has been several weeks now that I have been dwelling on the answer to this mystery. At first, I attempted to put logic into an otherwise "illogical" equation. The 3712 is the rarest of all Nautilus references, ever (I am dying to find out how many were really made). It was discontinued only 6 months after being presented in Basel, about the same time when it started to reach retailers. The other reason could be the slight modification of the dial. The slightly larger and redesigned date print had a casualty, one of the smaller markers at 7 o'clock. It might not be something significant at first but for those whose focus is on detail (which incidentally are most Patek fans) this is a let down. It almost looks like a sloppy way to cut cost and much less a way to make the date a little bit more readable.


... then a few days ago I might have gotten the answer. Initially when comparing both side by side I could not comprehend why the 3712 is still so highly appreciated. It just made no sense! First I must say that the rounded hinges of the new 5712 are an absolute improvement over the older models. It gives the new Nautty a more "modern" feeling, more in touch with the times. But when examined in detail this is where the improvements end. The dial difference is negligible, if you are not a "psycho" and are not made aware of the removal of the 7 o'clock marker you will not notice that minor change. When I held both in each hand... something did not feel right. The 5712 was thicker, and the back looked... bulky? Although on paper the difference should be negligible the new case construction accentuates the thickness. That's not good. It felt sloppy. What is unforgivable is that the thicker 5712 does not improve the 60 meter water resistance of the 3712, which is one of its weaknesses.

What absolutely killed me is when I decided to put both into the hands of a lady that just happened to be shopping for her husbands Christmas present. I usually like to ask people that are not so much into watches in order to get an honest answer. This also helps me bypass my personal bias as much as possible. Well, back to our subject... she held them and her first reaction was that they where both the same. The 5712 looked better... but wait! It also feels cheaper... ouch! That "remark" really killed me. She thought that the sales person and I where testing her to see if she could make the difference between a real Patek and a really good copy. The 3712 felt thiner and more authentic, when the back of the 5712 felt a bit more... "Seikoish"? I did not necessarily agree with that assessment but it gave me something to think about. Tastes are a personal matter, I love the 3712/5712 and she did not like the Nautties to begin with. I respect her opinion since not long ago I was not a Nautty fan either. Please bear in mind that I am not putting in question the quality or the improvement of the case of the 5712 over the 3712. I am almost certain that the improvement of the new Nautilus cases are way ahead of the older models the 3712 included. Thinking otherwise would just make no sense to me. Please take these remarks only as superficial assessments.

So what will happen now? How much will the price of the 3712 keep rising? Will it reach a maximum soon? Don't know. What I know is that the 3712 is on its way of becoming to Patek what the Daytona "Paul Newman" is to Rolex. Prices will keep rising, because the moment Patek collectors put their hands on the 3712 for their collection it will hardly go anywhere anymore. The 3712 will become harder and harder to come by over the years. Darn!

The market has spoken.

AP buys part of RM?

One of the biggest pending issues for RM customers was the longevity of the brand over an extended period of time. Many people where a bit "twitchy" to spend 30k on a relatively new brand. The concern was that if RM would eventually disappear there would be nobody to service your RM properly. Now, this concern is less than before. Rumor has it that AP has recently purchased a chunk of RM. Depending on the size of the purchase, this not only would ensure the longevity but give RM access to AP's distribution network overnight. Especially interesting are markets where RM was not present, and had no plans to be there anytime soon. What is uncertain is what will happen to the existing importers. I guest that for AP to get them out of the picture they would need a bigger chunk of RM, pry them out of their cold dead hands or come to a sizable monetary agreement with them. Unless AP would buy 51% of RM this would, of course, be impossible.

I am not certain that this is good news for everybody. What I am sure that this is not bad news either. I guess that having a strong partner sets many minds at easy in the RM camp and AP insures a source of imagination that has been very successful in recent years. I am still "digesting" the news so I don't have an opinion yet. To be honest, the size of the share acquired by AP will determine their strength in RM. Anything around or up to 10% will be merely anecdotal.

More details to come soon...

1972...

Back in 1972 many laughed in disbelieve as AP presented their idea of what a new sports watch should be. Gerald Genta's creation was to most critics weird, awkward, way too expensive, way too large, had too many edges, etc... Look at the Oak today. I must admit that while I fall in and out of love with many watches all the time, the Jumbo is something special.

If I were to give specific reasons as to why I revere the Jumbo so much... this would be the list:

- It opened an era. The sport watch "theme" had until then not been addressed by the high-end guys like Patek and Vacheron.
- It is by far the most versatile watch I own. It looks good with a tuxedo, a suit, a casual shirt, a polo shirt and a bathing suit.
- It's only understood by few. If you spot somebody else with a Jumbo you know he knows his watches.
- It's very comfortable and light. Because it is so thin, it is a joy to wear.
- It's inconspicuous. Unless spotted by a connoisseur it will attract very little attention.
- Its proportions are very well balanced. In fact they are so well conceived that they have remained unchanged in now 34 years.
- It's the only thing that I know (car, building, fashion, etc...) designed in the 70's that is beautiful and still made today. Apart from a sapphire back and a more evolved clasp it's the same watch.
- With the 2121 calibre in its guts you own a piece of horological history. Many consider the 2121 calibre the 12 cylinder engine of the industry.
- It DOES NOT have a seconds hand. It has thought, the most essential things on a watch; hours, minutes and the date.

Once its success started to be apparent many have asked Genta to design them an Oak as well. Genta's creations for Patek, Vacheron, IWC and Girard-Perregaux shared some success yet nothing close to the original Royal Oak. Patek's Nautilus could be a contender yet their production limitations don't really make them a threat. In order to really compete you must have items in stock and on display. Right now the Nautilus, especially the larger models, are in much larger demand than their actual production. You can't just go to your round-the-corner Patek dealer and buy one. The other three are just dragging their feet...

p.s. Some time ago AP made this skeletonized Jumbo and it has not really done a lot of "noise" since then. Weird, it is a beautiful piece of equipment. I had the chance to hold the nº1 and believe me, it's a beauty. It is a bit thiner than the Jumbo since it holds the 2120 calibre. The 2120 is the variant of the 2121 calibre but without the date. This makes the case about one millimeter thiner.

Audemars Piguet...

Golden Age?

It has never been so apparent that where are currently in a "golden age" of watch making. Never has there been so many complications at such prices and, what's more important, so many people willing to spend money to buy them. Pieces like the AMVOX2, Squadra, PK Chrono, Panerai Foudroayante, Genta Biretro... where unthinkable only ten years ago at these prices. Back then, only a few manufactures where capable of such developments. Ratrapantes, 8-day power reserves, retrogrades, vertical triggers, jumping hours and large dates are becoming quite common and more affordable than at any time in history. Even the Tourbillon's exclusivity has been challenged by Jaeger's "Master Tourbillon" (about time if you ask me). New companies like Richard Mille, URWERK, Hautlence are proposing new radical designs and thrive. That inspire of being priced at what was not long ago considered insane price points. Consider the "infamous" RM004v2, backordered to the end of time at a whopping 130,000 Dollars! Insane. This used to happen with the infamous Rolex "Daytona", yet at a price point one tenth that of the RM. But for a watch that costs 130k?!?

Another factor is the "spending threshold" on watches that has been continuously overrun in the last few years. Never have there been more people willing to spend obnoxious amounts of money for a watch. Almost any brand can make (at least commission) a Tourbillon and sell it! That, in some cases, is a mystery to me. Have we gone mad? Or is it that the choice has become so wast that it has become much more appealing to us all? The survey that Velociphile once took in his blog comes to one surprising conclusion; most of us blatantly lie to our spouses/relations/family about the watches that we own. Not only about the number of watches we own but what they really cost. I am certain that most of us can identify with this. When is the last time that you heard from your girlfriend/wife say; "... yes honey, you should really buy this beautifull watch." I would bet my underwear that the last time you told "her" that you where "considering" the purchase of a watch, at any price I might add, the response you got was closer to; "... What!?! Another one??? Are you going to grow extra arms to wear them all?..." And that would be the light version.

Disregarding your income evolution over the last ten years, would you ever have considered buying... sorry, spending that much money for your last watch? I sure as hell though that anybody spending that much money had something seriously wrong with him. Since then I have surpassed that line, tenfold. What about you?

COO-COO...

Lovely... really lovely. A while back I mentioned that regardless what Patek make, they will sell it. I said that even if they where to make "an old lady's hat with a coo-coo clock" people will flock by the thousands to buy it. Well, grandma's here...

Personally I own several Pateks and love many others that I will never own or be able to own. I say this not to brag, but to illustrate that I would not want to give the impression that I am one of those that criticize just because they can't get the chance to own one. I also must admit that I am much harsher on the watches I own and the brands I like. You would not see me comment on watches like Jacob & CO for instance, its just is a waste of time.

Now, back to this piece: Recently, the boys at Patek have just graced us with the first Patek whose box is nicer than its actual content. Limited to 300 units (I hate to repeat myself, but calling 300 Pateks Limited is a big leap of faith), here goes a boooring Calatrava in steel and with a size of 36 mm. I suspect it will not be a big head turner. Honestly, this thing looks like one of those Chinese counterfeit models. You know, one of these "own" creations that isn't really in Patek's catalogue yet they slap "Patek" on the face. This thing looks closer to a Limes or Davosa for less than 1,000 bucks (and there is nothing wrong with them, they charge a more than honest price for their watches). Special would have been 42 mm, the crown on the left side and a kevlar strap. A bit extravagant for a Patek... granted, but definitely more interesting than this... yawn... thing. I guess the day they conceived this watch, imagination was not in the menu.

Ahhh... almost forgot. It is waterproof to a "staggering" 30 meters. Wow, in the real world that is barely bathtub proof. Quite a performance for the year 1906. Wait! Forgot we are in 2006... sorry.

... and two more things;

ONE. If you are one of those idiots that when told the waterproof rating of a watch say; "... I don't plan to go that deep, har har har...". Stop reading this Blog, and don't come back... ever!
TWO. If you by chance you are one of the above, and own a watch that is waterproof to 30 meters, please go snorkeling with it. In am sure you are more than safe, har har har...

Sometimes I wonder how objective I am about the Pateks I like when I see that many other models are simply do not live up to their name. Lately I have the felling that the brand "Patek Philippe" is what constitutes a large part of the attractive of their products. If I where a true "purist", which I am not, I doubt I would accept a Lemania movement in my Patek. Several of their "flagship" watches (ironically the ones in biggest demand) are not "purebred" Pateks. Personally, I don't mind. I still think that many of these are great watches. However, the price point of these specific watches is a bit excessive considering what they really are. I can't help but feel that in some cases they are taking a free ride on their prestige. Nothing wrong with that, but nobody should take their customers for granted.

P.S. I know that I am going to get a lot of heat on this piece... but bring it on, this is what this blog is all about. If you respond please add your name or screen name to avoid confusion. Last time there was some debate and everybody was called "anonymous"... maybe it was just the same guy. ;-D

Dornblueth "99.2"

Few can give you more for your money than Dornblueth. Still a small watchmaker obsessed with quality and finishing, Dornblueth is getting to be very appreciated by collectors and watch enthusiast around the world. They take order directly and until now there are no shops anywhere. There is one exception though, UHREN in Madrid are the only store where you can go a buy a Dorning. Did I say buy? Sorry, I meant get in line. Backordered to about 6 months, this small manufacture is quite a bargain. Very appreciated amongst the connoisseur, Dornblueth is with F.P. Journe the only watchmaker to make all his movements in 18k rose gold. You can even order the seconds hack option or your initials engraved on the movement. Since they are all hand made special requests are not an obstacle, provided they are within reason of course...


My personal favorite is the 99.2 and judging from the waiting list I am not the only one! If you jump on this baby, ask for the "hack upgrade". As pictured on the right, the hack option makes the seconds hand jump to the closest quarter once you pull the crown to set the time. It's not that much and quite useful if you are a precision nut.

PRICE E.U: 4,900 € aprox.
PRICE U.S: 6,000 $ aprox.

Dornblueth & Sohn...

WEMPE "Chronometerwerke"

Usually when a watch has the name and logo of the Jeweler I look away. It was very common once for Jewelers to commission important pieces to Patek or Audemars with their brand on them. That was a long time ago. Then came the dark ages... and they commissioned crap generally put together in the far east. That was until now. The first to retake the idea and commission high-end stuff and brand it personally (not forgetting who did the piece) was Harry Winston. Particularly interesting where pieces like the Opus V by URWERK. However the damage made during decades of selling cheap branded products is done. It will take prestigious Jewelers the same years that they have spent selling these horrors to recuperate the image of their watch section.

Same is true about Cartier's "Private Collection". They are quite some extraordinary pieces yet the brand is not very appealing to the general proficient watch lover. Their "special" pieces are not to be taken lightly. Unfortunately, they will need many years to put this "spacial branch" back to where if used to be a long, long time ago. Even though I like several of these pieces I just can't bring myself to buy a Cartier.

Recently Wempe has just introduced and opened their own "little" watch manufacture. Their first models are quite impressive, in spite of the fact that they have just started. Hell, there many old boys out there that to this day don't get such good results. Particularly interesting is their "Tonneau" shaped model. If you like the shape but could do without the risk of getting a Poljot movement even if the dial says "swiss made" the the new Wempe is the way to go. The finishing is impeccable and the movement is a beauty. What would be interesting is to see their next model with an 8-day power reserve and a slightly larger case.


Whether Wempe will become an appealing brand, that remains to be seen. What is certain is that they have a lot of work ahead of them. Let's wait and see...

WEMPE Manufacture...

A sucker born every minute...

You must be kidding!?! The boys at B&R just graced us with this limited edition for a mere 2,300 €. This wannabe vintage manual bicompax is an ETA based, acrylic glass, automatic ROBERY. There should be a law against this.


You like this? Then take a look a the SINN 103. It gives you much more stuff for merely 700... yes 700 Euros. Ah, and for an extra 300 bucks you can upgrade it with a safire crystal. the same upgrade in the B&R is 700€. Pathetic...

I wonder if all the other stuff by Bell & Ross is so "aggressively" priced.

OffShore "Safari"

Since its initial introduction the Safari has caused quite some watch lovers to turn their heads. It is one of these watches that everybody likes for no real apparent reason apart from the a whole design. Whether it is the cream dial, dark blue numerals of the extraordinary crocodile strap it is difficult to single out one characteristic trait that makes it so attractive to most people. AP have scored a bulls-eye with this piece, and the market has spoken. Depending on the country, this OffShore has a waiting list of between 3 to 9 months.

Undoubtedly one of the most beautiful OffShores ever to leave the factory at LeBrassus.

Audemars Piguet...

Hautlence "HL"

Just had the first contact with real a production Hautlence. Must admit I am quiet impressed, with the watch and with the future of the brand. Guillaume Tetu was so kind as to explain the philosophy and more important, their project. As to where they want to take Hautlence I am certain that if they stick to the plan they will take their venture quite far. There are few occasions when I agree more as to watch making strategy. The HL for instance will be produced only 88 times in each version. The next project will not be with that "TV shape" case. The idea is that Hautlence do not want to be identified with a particular shape. Good move if you ask me.


Although the price is a bit steep (35,000 €) the finishing is well within the expected. Its design elements are very interesting and will make this watch interesting to you for quite some time. Even thought the shape is not my favorite the HL looks much better ON the wrist that OFF the wrist. The TV shaped case, which I thought was a disadvantage, becomes more understandable once you examine the watch more closely. The movement is the one "forcing" the case shape of the watch, it is not an element of style.


Like many watches and especially with this one you have to see it in the flesh to properly make your self an opinion. If you get the chance take a look, even if you are not in the market for something like that it is an interesting piece nonetheless.

Hautlence...