Jean Dunant "SHABAKA"

Alternative ways to display time are becoming very popular lately. URWERK could be one of the first of this new movement with HD3 following close by. Lately Jean Dunant with their latest creation, the "Shabaka" have joined the party. Quite a "tour de force" if you look at its numbers. A perpetual minute repeater (with 721 parts and 54 jewels) was up until recently only available at one of the Three Geneva Princes (AP, Patek and Vacheron). The buttons on the side are not for a chrono, as many might think, but to set the date.

It is readable at first although I must admit the design reminds me of some sort of "hell-robot-juggernaut" from a bad 70's Sci-Fi flick. The price? I dare not ask.


P.s. The 70's where very prolific in "alternative" watches. If you like this stuff take a look in Watchismo's blog there is some great stuff in there.

Jean Dunand...
press release...

Team ALINGHI

After much speculation an anticipation the new "Team Alinghi" is finally being presented.


By far the most aggressive AP to date. It will be a watch to love or hate. If you feel neither than it is likely you don't like watches to begin with. As with the first Tantalum watch AP is pioneering a new material for a watch case, "forged carbon". Nobody has used anything like this until now. Will it be as good as the materials used up until now? Don't know yet but I sure would love to test-drive this baby. Many will complain about its weight yet some do welcome light and comfortable watches once in a while.

There is no need to go into detail regarding the movement since most of you know the calibre already. It is the same one that is present inside the Polaris, a 10 minute countdown regatta chrono. I must admit that I am tempted to believe that since it is quite extreme and previous extreme models like the EOD and Montoya have done amazingly well in the grey market that this Team Alinghi will do as much.

The will be, like in the past, three versions. A bit silly since the whole thing about this watch is the full forged carbon case.







There is "one" thing that I am not particularly impressed with. Can't get used to the strap connection to the case. Just don't like the way it hooks to the case without the links. It looks sloppy, almost like cutting costs. I would recommend getting the regular rubber strap, four steel links (the ones that make the strap connect to the case) and have them PVD'ed by your local Jeweler. It would look better and you would have a deployant to boot. A kevlar strap on this baby would have been bliss...


Audemars Piguet...

Richard Mille "RM011"

I was not supposed to post these until the embargo was lifted somewhere around the 20th of March. Somebody pooped... again.

The "monster" is a Vaucher base with a Dubois Dépraz module. It is an "annual calendar-flyback-chrono" with an extra 60 minute countdown at nine o'clock. The month indicator is at 4 o'clock. A very impressive piece of kit! The price will range between 50 to 60 thousand euros. Many have been waiting for Richard to fill the huge gap between the RM010 and the RM004 which is around 80 thousand euros!!! This will likely ease the pressure on the RM004v2 order although they are entirely different animals.


It is regrettable that this watch did not see the light one year ago. It would have been a much bigger shock and would have set a higher standard when it comes to mono-compax chronos. Now there are already three mono-compax chronos out there, two of which use the 60 minutes/12 hours disposition.

Richard Mille...

How to shoot an URWERK...


... and make the Luminova sing.

TEN STEPS:

1.- Wait for the .05 to stop. (Yes, it was very hard to refrain from winding it!)
2.- Make sure both, the URWERK and your camera are fixed in a steady position. (I suggest a tripod if you have one.)
3.- Set the watch to manual focus and exposure.
4.- Use a high f-stop value to increase focus and depth of field. (Use f.16 or higher)
5.- Set an exposure time between 10 to 30 seconds. (Don't go above if you use digital, there will be too much static.)
6.- Use a remote trigger. (If you don't have one use the timer.)
7.- Use your flash to manually flash the URWERK and make the Luminova glow.
8.- Pull the trigger!
9.- Enjoy.
10.- Post in your favorite Forum.

This, of course, would work on any other watch as well. So, what are you waiting for?!?

GP "Financial Times Chrono"

We are getting close to the big shows (Geneva/Basel) and the stuff just keeps poring in. Many business school text books say; "If it works, don't fix it". Recently AP has changed that slightly to; "If it works, milk it!" with their very successful Alinghi lineup. Now Girard-Perregaux has taken another step an rephrased the whole thing to; "If it's the only think you sell, think up many different ones to keep selling them". The world chrono has been the only well selling watch in their bag for quite some time. I consider GP a great manufacturer but for some reason they just seem to go nowhere. Great finishes and serious watchmaking have been handicapped by very high discounts and very low second hand market values.

All that said the world timer is a great watch and this "Financial Times" version adds a bit of spice to the original. Who know if they keep making many different versions they might turn into a collectors item.

Girard-Perregaux...

...

You must be kidding me.


No wonder there are people that go berserk, take a shotgun and shoot indiscriminately into the general population... I am at a loss for words.

P.s. Does the model seem a "little" bloated or is it just me? ...babe, told you not to have had that bowl-o-beans before the shoot.

The King is dead... long live the King!

... what in the name...!?! This is the new daVinci? Not sure about the shape... looks like old news to me. Doesn't this look like old news to you? You judge...


I see that somebody has been pecking at their neighbors... Patek will not be happy (this chrono is a bit to close to some of Patek's stuff for my taste), and somebody else I now is going to be right out pissed. That 12 hour 60 minutes chrono on the same axis was meant to see the light last year with another brand, but unfortunately due to some unexpected events and a blatant lack of efficiency it did not. Even though the project was delayed it would have been smarter to present it and claim first place, instead to have somebody rain on your parade. Somebody talked somewhere down the line...


I wonder who has the rights to the old Porsche Design IWC watches. They look much better than any of the stuff that IWC is coming out with lately. The Portuguese is an old geezer, the Pilot's are a remnant of the past, the Ingenieur is nothing new, the Portofino looks like many other watches out there and the Aquatimer is surely nothing that will turn heads. All that said, an IWC is a fantastic watch. I just feel that unless they hire some designing muscle they will soon be added to the list of "prestigious sinking ships". I am certain that with a little "something" IWC have the potential to grow way beyond their current status.


I must admit that I am relieved to see their chrono perpetual movement in the new lineup. You just can't get better value for a perpetual anywhere.

IWC...

AMVOX 4?

Like many that follow, admire and respect Jaeger's work I am tempted to make predictions from time to time. Dreaming of how great it would be to have a ... with a ... I guess many of us do this all the time. Since my previous predictions was right (apart from rather obvious) regarding the AMVOX 3 I am tempted to make a prediction regarding the AMVOX 4. My bet would be the new Memovox movement that has seen the light inside the "GeoVox" but without the Geo. Maybe even modified to have all buttons on the same side... or maybe not. What I am certain would be awesome is the PVD look of the AMVOX 2 with this new Memovox movement, and in a 42 mm case if I might add. A little more sobriety could go a long way here. Any bets anybody?

details...
Jaeger leCoultre...

P.s. Today is Friday the 16th of February, 2007... just wanted to mention this in case somebody "claims" (like with my AMVOX 3 prediction) I got the scoop from inside sources.

Cheeeesy girl...

I just can't help it but sometimes I wonder if the management of big companies take any time at all to look at the publicity they buy. I don't know what the guy that edited this "Viceroy" spot had on his mind, unless he thought that having Shakira pick cheese-balls between her toes was representative of the brand. Word of advice: If you are one of those that think this is sexy, please make an appointment with your shrink, you have a serious cheese fetish! In some cultures, mine included, it is considered DISGUSTING to play with ones foot while talking to somebody.


To be honest, the first time I saw the spot (and ever since) the whole commercial smelled like feet. Maybe they should have pitched a cheese fondu franchise instead. Oh no! (Now I am picturing her rubbing chunks of bread between her toes...) see?.. now I vomited.

Another one bites the dust...

Because of some mysterious misunderstanding (... upsss!) many have had the chance to get a sneak peak at one of the novelties to be introduced at this years Geneva show. Apparently the pictures of the new "GeoVox" where under embargo until the 2nd of April (sources tell me that the date is on the 19th of March now). They have now hastily been removed. They only did not count on Velociphile... jejeje (maliciously rubbing my hands). He was quick to the draw and has fortunately stored and Bloged the picture to make sure that everybody see the "horror" that will soon see the light at Jaeger. Well done V!!!

I have nothing against Valentino Rossi, actually I believe like many that he is most likely the best motorcycle pilot of all times. Now, what I certainly don't share are his looks and fashion sense. Just because I admire the guy's achievements and skill that does not mean that I have to go and fix myself a look like his... or do I? There is little doubt that he has a striking charisma, yes, but every time I see him on TV I get the sense that the "kid" needs a bath and a good shave. At barely 100 pounds I could understand that he is a sex symbol for slightly mentally unbalanced Manga-loving teens but he is definitely no Clooney or Brosnan... or is he? (If I have any female readers... here is where you can correct me if I am wrong). To me it would be like choosing Kate Moss over Gisele Bündchen.


(I know it's unfair, but I couldn't help myself...)

Now, why would I do that?!? They are both international supermodels with very successful careers, but unless I was completely deranged and had a low self esteem problem my pick would be Gisele. Which one would you choose? I don't see too many guys raising their hands for Kate... So why fashion a watch to his look and not just keep his deeds in mind? I guess that Jaeger is trying to fish for customers outside their usual crowd. Logical you might think... but didn't they try that with the AMVOX R-Alarm? As far as I know it was no success, actually far from it. If they keep insisting they are going to go the Zenith route in no time and add "red fluffy hair" to their watches any time soon.

Looking at it again I must admit that this LE is a very nasty surprise. I love Jaeger's Memovox movements and would have eventually fallen for this one in due time (if it where a regular production model). Now, even if there is a non Rossi edition I just have no incentive to get this watch anymore. I guess that just spared me a trip to the money tree, as well as another headache from my future wife.

Jaeger leCoultre...

UPDATE: The pictures are back up again.

URWERK 201 "Blackshark"

Just like the 103 the 201 will have a Platinum PVD'ed version. This "thing" sends shivers down my spine. At this point I don't know if I am just biased or what ever the guys at URWERK come out with I just think is awesome. I wish there is a more "affordable" URWERK in the future. I told Felix many times that a 102 in PVD'ed steel and a price tag under 10K would be a real killer. Unfortunately, Felix's idea is not to mass produce his watches (and I don't blame him). He believes that any manufacture that crosses the 500 pieces per year mark makes looses integrity. At these quantities it makes it impossible to properly control the quality of all the produced watches. To be honest, I think he is right. Many other manufacturers have crossed that line and things do change for the worse. This year URWERK will reach about 250 pieces (of the 103's and 201's altogether) and the 500 mark will not be reached for several years.

The first Blackbird created quiet a stir and despite its very high price tag it was in much higher demand than any other URWERK to date. Things will be no different with this one. There will be only 10 pieces and people are already lining up. This means that by the time it reaches the stores it will already be gone.

There is a great 201 presentation video in Horomundi that illustrates the function of the telescopic hand. Be patient, the demonstration is around the middle of the video, don't miss this!

URWERK...

OffShore "VOLCANO"

In order to quiet some critics regarding the sometimes overrated "in-house dilemma" with the Offshore, AP have just coughedup this new in-house movement. Since this is one of their most popular movements, it was only a mater of time that they eventually make it their own. I guess the "Volcano" is only the beginning of the transition of all OffShores to the new 3126/3840 calibre.

Now, many fanatics are ready to plunge themselves in a metaphysical debate (and keep ballbusting...) about the profound and troubling intricacies regarding the modular vs. the integrated movement construction bla bla bla... Hey, I have an idea! We should all pitch in to make a sort of Mad Max "thunder-dome". We put them in there, two at a time, and then let them beat themselves to death with long soft foam sticks. Whoever gets tired first looses the argument. What do you think?

Ejem... almost forgot. It sure looks like the color combos at AP are running out. Is it just me, or are the later Offshore models stating to get on the "freakish" side? Incredibly, this one compared to some others I have seen is quite conservative (especially some LEs made for Jewelers). Not sure if it is such a good idea to make the OffShore so colorful. It's great to make the OffShore more modern, however... this will also make it an item that will eventually loose its appeal.

The Volcano will be a regular collection model (thanks for that!!!) and is expected to be shipped this month world wide. Only 300 are to be made this year. The price should be the same or in very close vicinity of the current OffShores.

Here is more info on the soon to be retired 2326/2840 calibre. Tapestry of Time...

Audemars Piguet...

BRACE YOURSELVES!!!

... for the "Team Alinghi" Offshore is coming! I have had a peak at the new Offshore to be presented in little over a month from now. All I can guarantee you is that it will NOT leave anybody indifferent. While more extravagant watch lovers will find it breathtaking I am certain that the classical watch crowd will find it absolutely horrifying.

Unfortunately this time I have have been sworn to absolute secrecy and can't divulge or even describe the piece. Darn... What I can tell you is that if you liked the "Montoya" or the "EOD" this is definitely your piece. The Alinghi Team is the most aggressive Oak to date, so aggressive in fact that it makes the Montoya look as classical as a Jumbo. If you want me to be even blunter... then I would say that the Team Alinghi is to the Montoya what Attilah the Hun is to Marie Antoinette. Definitely not a ladies watch.

I suggest you RUN to the nearest Official Dealer and put a down payment on it. Trust me, you want to do this today!

Audemars Piguet...

Apple "iPhone"

It was about time that somebody kick Nokia, Samsung and SonyEricsson where it hurts. For years mobile phone users have endured crummy, ugly and ineffective hybrids called "smartphones". When these smartphones came along it looked like things where finally getting close to what we a power-user really needed. WRONG! These new smartphones where bad palms and even worse mobile phones. They are slow, ugly and skittish to say the least. Symbian and Windows mobile are absolutely horrible to work with, and even after years of being in the market they still don't give the impression of a throughly thought out product. Then came RIM's Blackberry Pearl. The Pearl is the first somewhat successful attempt at a slightly sexy and comfortable smartphone. It's not perfect but it's darn close!

Recently, on the 11th of January, Jobs presented what could be the answer to all our prayers, the iPhone. It looks promising indeed. At least the software does, the outside is another mater. I am not very fond of the outside, it just looks like a piece of hardware that you might get sick off rather sooner than later. Unlike the iPod the iPhone's design does not convey any sense of glamour at all. It just looks like any of the thousands of palms that are out there already. Mind you, the is no such thing as a glamourous Palm in the market today so right now this does not seem to be a concern. The software on the other hand looks mighty strong. Many new options have been added that should have been part of mobile phones quite some time ago. Personally I don't welcome the iPod integration and would have liked a smaller phone with and even larger battery life. One of the biggest problems with smartphones to date is processor power. I am not certain that with this size and expected battery life that the software will run smoothly. All other smartphones are incredibly easy to crash, especially if you add more software. To be honest I doubt that the iPhone will deliver better performance than what is out there today. I have not been able to play with one yet but experience in the past has been that too much software in a relatively limited hardware enclosure will give you problems if you are a "power user" and milk this baby for all its functions. So right now I am just taking down names of all those kissass reporters that claim that the iPhone works flawlessly etc... manly to remove them from my "respectable" list. Like with many things there are many to lineup to praise the new born child, just like there are many to put it down. I would rather wait and decide after several weeks of test driving the item in question.


What I like (so far):

- Somebody finally has taken smartphones seriously.
- Firmware and software updates via the Internet. No need to go begging a nerdy pimply bonehead to update the firmware of your phone right then and there.
- The software looks clean all around. Unlike Symbian and Windows Mobile there are no menus that suddenly look like DOS.
- You can view or hear your Podcasts on the way to work.
- The screen has the resolution and is good enough to really be used for things other than only a phone.


What I don't like (so far):

- The outside look is less than sexy. Quite a disappointment compared to previous Apple products. Weak performance in that respect.
- There are no independent LEDs that can be programed to tell you if your battery is low, you got an sms or have missed calls. Having to turn on the screen every time to check is a pain.
- Does not have a "physical" key lock button. Not sure how practical the virtual unlock button will be.
- I doubt that greasy fingers, especially after a dozen buffalo wings, will be able to make the touch screen perform adequately.


What I HATE:

- Operator locked! I absolutely can't stand that Apple have brought the Operators into the equation. I guess that it was inevitable since the new iPhone has new options like visual voice mail that requires some work on the part of the operator. However, if Cigular update their network for this feature that does not mean that anybody else will. Especially in Europe where new developments are not really adopted, or at least take longer to be implemented. If Apple intends to work with operators to improve the functionality of their iPhone then their are in for a nasty surprise. Nokia and SonyEricsson (definitely power players in mobile phones) have tried many "improvements" such as this in the past... all their attempts fell on deaf ears and most countries around the world have only sms, mms and some gprs as extra features to voice calls. If the much bigger boys like Nokia and SonyEricsson have not managed to do anything it's very unlikely that Apple will. Good luck Steve!

I any case there is still work to be done. I must admit that I am much more exited that Apple has entered the mobile phone market that in the iPhone itself. That to me is the big news. I am glad that somebody addressed the issue and is forcing the other two to really improve. I am excited to se what Symbian and Windows mobile do to counteract Apple's creation.

iPhone...

URWERK 201 "HammerHead"

Surely the year can't start any better than this. The 2.0 version of the OpusV. The new 200 series by URWERK is simply stunning. Many of us expected something spectacular and this really lives up to the expectations. I particularly enjoy the "use indicator" on the back (will try to post these soon). This is an absolute novelty: apart from the 5 year "service indicator" like the OpusV, the 201 actually keeps track of the time you have been wearing/using the watch for up to 90 years (118 if you want to be precise). Not really useful on a daily basis but it's things like that that make you "almost" build a personal relationship with an object.

URWERK is certainly developing into a very respectable watchmaker. With a very serious and cautious approach they are very appreciated by connoisseurs and watch lovers everywhere. Like with other URWERK models, pictures don't do them any justice.

URWERK...

New year, new hope.

There are many interesting things ahead for us in 2007. The RM011, the AMVOX3, URWERK's Hammer Head, Audemars's Team Alinghi, and lately I hear that the boys at Lange might be cooking up something like a 42 mm Dato... Things look particularly interesting with Jaeger's new Diver lineup based upon the ever so revered "Polaris". However I would not expect an exact replica since the AMVOX1 is already very similar to the original Polaris from the 60's.

It is very unfortunate though that I will not be able to go to Basel/Geneva this year (... getting married). However, I will be monitoring developments closely and reporting them once they are available.
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Almost forgot, I have a request for 2007 to "webmasters" of other sites and forums: I have NO problem with anybody using, taking and posting any information that is displayed here, I even have NO problem with "you guys" not mentioning the source... but taking this material and claiming that it is "your" exclusive when the pictures where taken from this Blog... that, I have a problem with. I especially recall the first pictures I posted on the 30 Anniversary Nautilus. I don´t like pointing fingers, but some forums took the pictures, added a watermark with their name and made them their exclusive. How do I know that they came from me? Simple, they did not bother changing the size of the pictures that I posted.

Countdowns...

Merry Christmas!!!

Dear fellow Bloggers and Readers,

I wish all of you a great Christmas and a most fantastic New Year. Let's hope that Santa brings many watches to you all...

P.S. I will be slowing the rate of posts here until the holiday season is over. My family and friends will be getting the most of my attention this holiday season.

Mirror mirror on the wall, who's the RAREST of them all..?

With the speculative bubble around the 3712 many expected that the 5712 would cause this bubble to burst. Well it did... not! It only deflated slightly. lately it seems that its price is rising again. Many hoped that the price of the 3712 would drop, to either get one for themselves or have greedy speculators and gray market merchants bite the dust. Sorry, not this time. I guest that the Moonphase Nautty will not be a bargain just yet. Yes, unbelievably the older 3712 trades at higher prices than the new 5712!

How can this be? It has been several weeks now that I have been dwelling on the answer to this mystery. At first, I attempted to put logic into an otherwise "illogical" equation. The 3712 is the rarest of all Nautilus references, ever (I am dying to find out how many were really made). It was discontinued only 6 months after being presented in Basel, about the same time when it started to reach retailers. The other reason could be the slight modification of the dial. The slightly larger and redesigned date print had a casualty, one of the smaller markers at 7 o'clock. It might not be something significant at first but for those whose focus is on detail (which incidentally are most Patek fans) this is a let down. It almost looks like a sloppy way to cut cost and much less a way to make the date a little bit more readable.


... then a few days ago I might have gotten the answer. Initially when comparing both side by side I could not comprehend why the 3712 is still so highly appreciated. It just made no sense! First I must say that the rounded hinges of the new 5712 are an absolute improvement over the older models. It gives the new Nautty a more "modern" feeling, more in touch with the times. But when examined in detail this is where the improvements end. The dial difference is negligible, if you are not a "psycho" and are not made aware of the removal of the 7 o'clock marker you will not notice that minor change. When I held both in each hand... something did not feel right. The 5712 was thicker, and the back looked... bulky? Although on paper the difference should be negligible the new case construction accentuates the thickness. That's not good. It felt sloppy. What is unforgivable is that the thicker 5712 does not improve the 60 meter water resistance of the 3712, which is one of its weaknesses.

What absolutely killed me is when I decided to put both into the hands of a lady that just happened to be shopping for her husbands Christmas present. I usually like to ask people that are not so much into watches in order to get an honest answer. This also helps me bypass my personal bias as much as possible. Well, back to our subject... she held them and her first reaction was that they where both the same. The 5712 looked better... but wait! It also feels cheaper... ouch! That "remark" really killed me. She thought that the sales person and I where testing her to see if she could make the difference between a real Patek and a really good copy. The 3712 felt thiner and more authentic, when the back of the 5712 felt a bit more... "Seikoish"? I did not necessarily agree with that assessment but it gave me something to think about. Tastes are a personal matter, I love the 3712/5712 and she did not like the Nautties to begin with. I respect her opinion since not long ago I was not a Nautty fan either. Please bear in mind that I am not putting in question the quality or the improvement of the case of the 5712 over the 3712. I am almost certain that the improvement of the new Nautilus cases are way ahead of the older models the 3712 included. Thinking otherwise would just make no sense to me. Please take these remarks only as superficial assessments.

So what will happen now? How much will the price of the 3712 keep rising? Will it reach a maximum soon? Don't know. What I know is that the 3712 is on its way of becoming to Patek what the Daytona "Paul Newman" is to Rolex. Prices will keep rising, because the moment Patek collectors put their hands on the 3712 for their collection it will hardly go anywhere anymore. The 3712 will become harder and harder to come by over the years. Darn!

The market has spoken.

AP buys part of RM?

One of the biggest pending issues for RM customers was the longevity of the brand over an extended period of time. Many people where a bit "twitchy" to spend 30k on a relatively new brand. The concern was that if RM would eventually disappear there would be nobody to service your RM properly. Now, this concern is less than before. Rumor has it that AP has recently purchased a chunk of RM. Depending on the size of the purchase, this not only would ensure the longevity but give RM access to AP's distribution network overnight. Especially interesting are markets where RM was not present, and had no plans to be there anytime soon. What is uncertain is what will happen to the existing importers. I guest that for AP to get them out of the picture they would need a bigger chunk of RM, pry them out of their cold dead hands or come to a sizable monetary agreement with them. Unless AP would buy 51% of RM this would, of course, be impossible.

I am not certain that this is good news for everybody. What I am sure that this is not bad news either. I guess that having a strong partner sets many minds at easy in the RM camp and AP insures a source of imagination that has been very successful in recent years. I am still "digesting" the news so I don't have an opinion yet. To be honest, the size of the share acquired by AP will determine their strength in RM. Anything around or up to 10% will be merely anecdotal.

More details to come soon...

1972...

Back in 1972 many laughed in disbelieve as AP presented their idea of what a new sports watch should be. Gerald Genta's creation was to most critics weird, awkward, way too expensive, way too large, had too many edges, etc... Look at the Oak today. I must admit that while I fall in and out of love with many watches all the time, the Jumbo is something special.

If I were to give specific reasons as to why I revere the Jumbo so much... this would be the list:

- It opened an era. The sport watch "theme" had until then not been addressed by the high-end guys like Patek and Vacheron.
- It is by far the most versatile watch I own. It looks good with a tuxedo, a suit, a casual shirt, a polo shirt and a bathing suit.
- It's only understood by few. If you spot somebody else with a Jumbo you know he knows his watches.
- It's very comfortable and light. Because it is so thin, it is a joy to wear.
- It's inconspicuous. Unless spotted by a connoisseur it will attract very little attention.
- Its proportions are very well balanced. In fact they are so well conceived that they have remained unchanged in now 34 years.
- It's the only thing that I know (car, building, fashion, etc...) designed in the 70's that is beautiful and still made today. Apart from a sapphire back and a more evolved clasp it's the same watch.
- With the 2121 calibre in its guts you own a piece of horological history. Many consider the 2121 calibre the 12 cylinder engine of the industry.
- It DOES NOT have a seconds hand. It has thought, the most essential things on a watch; hours, minutes and the date.

Once its success started to be apparent many have asked Genta to design them an Oak as well. Genta's creations for Patek, Vacheron, IWC and Girard-Perregaux shared some success yet nothing close to the original Royal Oak. Patek's Nautilus could be a contender yet their production limitations don't really make them a threat. In order to really compete you must have items in stock and on display. Right now the Nautilus, especially the larger models, are in much larger demand than their actual production. You can't just go to your round-the-corner Patek dealer and buy one. The other three are just dragging their feet...

p.s. Some time ago AP made this skeletonized Jumbo and it has not really done a lot of "noise" since then. Weird, it is a beautiful piece of equipment. I had the chance to hold the nº1 and believe me, it's a beauty. It is a bit thiner than the Jumbo since it holds the 2120 calibre. The 2120 is the variant of the 2121 calibre but without the date. This makes the case about one millimeter thiner.

Audemars Piguet...