Blue Chip

A good friend and fellow watch lover has recently brought this podcast to my attention... (Thanks by the way, great find!) Quite an interesting piece even though there are some points that I am not in agreement with, it describes pretty accurately the recent evolution of the relationship between manufacturers and prominent collectors/customers in recent years.

Wall Street Journal...

However, there are several statements that I can not agree with, although his term "Blue Chip Watch" in very interesting indeed. For instance, not "all" Pateks are a good buy, and I would not put "BlancPain" amongst the blue chip description when it is clearly closer to a junk bond. Apart from BlancPain being a "sinking ship" its resale value is among the very worse in the market.

There is also... hmmm I would say a despective tone as to the "recent" love affair between collectors and manufacturers. Describing how collectors now have to mingle (kiss ass...) in order to get certain pieces, how they get invited to the factories and events etc... Not untrue, however the tone this is being told almost sounds like; "I am a journalist and used to be in demand but now they invite "others" to all the cool parties... and it's all Internet's fault!" Hmmm... could it be that watch journalism has become so submissive to the point of obsolescence that people start looking in other places? If one offers lots of praise and little critique you will eventually be replaced by "others" that in the end contribute to improving a product. Could it be that manufacturers are listening to us? I am almost in tears... nah, wake up! The truth is simpler than that. Manufacturers have discovered that it's by far more glamorous/lucrative to network at diners or cocktails with people that can afford to buy their mega-ultra-expensive watches than journalists/reporters that say yes to everything and only care about the amount of publicity they will be able to sell. With journalists being more and more arrogant, brands are shifting funds for promotion to their end clients or customers. As a result of doing this there are more grateful people and more "attentive" journalists next time there is a venue. In order to attract journalists to events, brands have had to go to incredible lengths only to make them appear, and that after having all expenses paid! There are some journalists out there that sure know and love their trade, but there many more out there that report and write on the subject yet don't even like watches. Believe me, I know quite a few.

ROLEX "Yacht Master II"

This thing is sooo horrible in sooo many ways, that I am just going to say nothing...


... just when I thought that they could not do anything more horrific that the GMT-II here they go at it again. Please, no more of this torture I beg you!

Yacht Master II...

Three Kings

Panerai have followed up on last years p.2002 with three new home-backed movements. Three quite impressive movements in their conception although one is particularly interesting, the 10-day Chrono. The design and finishing of the movement is clean, modern and straight to the point. The finishings are attractive even though the classic "boise" finish (the little polished circles on the base plates and bridges) has been left aside. To be honest with you, I not only not miss it but welcome the lack of it. There is a distinctive look to them without being too exotic.

p.2005: The Tourbillon is like all tourbillon in another league. Not a really commercial solution since its price is a to high for a Panerai especially when Jaeger is priced at half that with the "Master Compressor". It is a beautiful 30 sec Tourbillon from behind. What is commendable is that they had the guts not to show the tourbillon cage from the front. That would have made any Panerai look awkward.


p.2003: The 10-day GMT is a great idea... however its concept is deeply flawed. IT MAKES NO SENSE TO HAVE A 10-DAY AUTOMATIC WATCH (Unless it is a perpetual calendar that is). Why? Because making it automatic voids the need of having the power reserve complication. Part of the "magic" of having a power reserve is to see its evolution and wind it when it needs to be wound. It is almost a way to establish a personal "rapport" with an object. Because the watch is automatic the 10-day power reserve will always be fully wound, hence it is useless.


p.2004: The 8-day Chrono is quite a piece of work. A manual monopusher chrono with a linear 8-day power reserve... uffff, I almost ran out of air. This is a watch purist's dream yet what remains to be seen is the price of this piece. I don't think it will reach the 20's yet it will be well above the 10's.


Where as this new strategy of Panerai will be successful remains to bee seen. It's clear that their intention is to raise the level and play in the bigger boys back yard. The new movements are quite interesting even at a price previously unseen in the brand. The markets reaction will be crucial during this year. Still, they are very well aware that their previous price range is what until now fed them.

Panerai...

HD3 "Three Minds"

Things are looking up for "alternative" ways to read time. I see more and more imagination used in the design of such displays. To be honest this system is nothing new since this is a derivative of jumping hours and digital minutes APs and Pateks from the 20's. Less aggressive, of course, but the very same concept nonetheless. The mecanism is a jumping hour (I sincerely hope so) since otherwise it would be unreadable and minutes plus seconds wheel. The "Three Minds" is a great piece of kit for the lovers of Oversize watches. A bit agressive but good enough to be recommended to anybody with a more "modern" taste in fashion. My guess is that it will be around the 50k mark. It sounds a bit excessive yet there will be only 33 pieces made in the different combos (Black Titanium, Rose Gold and Titanium/Rose Gold) which makes it more costly. Economies of scale and the exclusivity factor play an important role here.

Jorg Hysek has really been growing since he left the company bearing his name and founded HD3 with Valerie Ursenbacher and Fabrice Gonet. Looking at precedents like Gerald Genta and Frank Muller it was not what many expected. When BIG names leave the manufactures that they once named generally end up floating into the limbo of forgotten yet once in a while acknowledged. In this case HD3 is probably taking off right there where Hysek (the brand) seems to be stuck. The policy of making only 33 pieces per model seems a bit difficult to enforce in the future. As impossible as it was for Roger DuBuis to keep making only 28 pieces of each watch. Eventually HD3 will have to make 333 units just like DuBuis had to make 888 of some models. The other option is to keep demand at bay by raising prices and so adjusting the demand of their products. That practice, however, has its risks.

HD3...

Grrrrrr... for a good cause.

Journe and Delon have teemed up for a good cause. This "piece unique" was made to raise funds for the IRP foundation that fights paraplegia. The "Le Guépard" is a one of a kind Octa based on the movie by the same name from Luchino Visconti. The face is hand engraved by Bernard Ditzoff.

I can't wait for the 21st of march since I am very curious on the outcome of this auction

IRP...
F.P. Journe...

SUPER SIZE!.. me?

Leaving cheap sexual innuendoes and clichés aside, size matters. But not the way you might think, especially in the watch world. In a society obsessed with sizes, big is not better here. People want bigger penises, bigger breast, bigger burgers, bigger planes, bigger cars... except mobile phones that go smaller. If you are not big then you are nothing. At least that is what they want you to think. Never have people, men and women alike, been so concerned with the size of their genitals. Breast and penis enlargement procedures keep spiraling upwards. The same trend seems to be emerging with watches today. Manufacturers have struck a gold mine with the recent oversize madness and are offering the same'ol stuff just much larger. People spend more money than ever on watches and many unscrupulous manufacturers make them bigger, not only in size but also in price. Even respectable houses like Patek that "swore" never to make larger watches, and claimed that it was only a short lived trend, has succumbed to the call of larger watches and bigger money. Everybody does it. There is nothing wrong with that if the market demands it. However, don't be fooled, there are different ways to make the transition. Many manufacturers fall into the temptation to raise prices by increasing sizes and not making better watches. As far as I know the only manufacturer that has or had a policy regarding that is A. Lange & Söhne. Their idea is that what dictates the size of the case is the size of the movement. In other words... if you want a 44 mm case than you need a movement that will completely fill the case. Although I am not sure this is true anymore.

Historically the point of making pocket watches (and today wrist watches) was to make what was once very large, portable and small. The truth is that the smaller and thiner the better, and thus more exclusive and expensive. It is obvious that it takes much more skill to make a small watch rather than a large clock. Until not so long ago watches have always been small and thin. It is only ten years ago (with the birth of the OffShore and the rediscovery of the Panerai) that oversize watches have started to be fashionable at all. Yes, they have been around forever yet that does not mean that they where popular then. In fact they are very rare and today they get good prices at auctions around the world. There is nothing wrong with large watches, if they have a purpose that is. If you weight 300 pounds and your wrist is the size two-by-four then you are in luck. Never has there been so many 46 mm and larger sizes available. Personally I believe that it looks as silly, if not more, to wear a too large watch than a too small watch. Everybody has a size range, find yours. But beware, it is very difficult to go "smaller" once you get used to "bigger". I have set myself a personal limit, and have had many temptations to go bigger since then. Staying within this boundary allows me to go back and wear smaller watches from time to time. There are some fantastic small watches out there so make sure you don't discard them by going "too big".

Yes, SMALLER IS BETTER. Most of the times smaller is much more expensive. Although there is nothing wrong with big if there is a reason for a larger case. Some have a purpose but unfortunately many don't. Increasing the size of a watch by 2, 4 or 6 mm for aesthetic reasons does not justify an increase of several thousands of dollars/euros for the same movement/watch. A depth rating of 1,000 meters, a large and very complicated movement, antimagnetic protection, etc... is a good reason for it. There are several large watches that I respect for several of the cited reasons. The Porsche "Indicator", Lange "31-days", Jaeger's "Master Grand Reveil"... are some of the large watches that have a good reason to be large. The other side of the coin? Well the Cartier "Santos 100", U-boat, the ever growing "Biretros" by Genta and some I dare not mention in this Blog (to keep it clean).

I suspect that this year's Geneva and Basel shows could be horrifying to that respect. Something tells me that we should prepare for some real juggernauts coming our way this year.

Jaeger leCoultre...

Safari. The return...

Brass (bronze) was never a great idea for watches. In any case the spirit behind the Safari was much more that just the brass. I wonder how this will work with the general public.

The watch looks great at first site, although I would like to see the compass on the buckle like the original Genta Safari in the 80´s, that was part of its charm. More to come soon...

Gerald Genta...

Jean Dunant "SHABAKA"

Alternative ways to display time are becoming very popular lately. URWERK could be one of the first of this new movement with HD3 following close by. Lately Jean Dunant with their latest creation, the "Shabaka" have joined the party. Quite a "tour de force" if you look at its numbers. A perpetual minute repeater (with 721 parts and 54 jewels) was up until recently only available at one of the Three Geneva Princes (AP, Patek and Vacheron). The buttons on the side are not for a chrono, as many might think, but to set the date.

It is readable at first although I must admit the design reminds me of some sort of "hell-robot-juggernaut" from a bad 70's Sci-Fi flick. The price? I dare not ask.


P.s. The 70's where very prolific in "alternative" watches. If you like this stuff take a look in Watchismo's blog there is some great stuff in there.

Jean Dunand...
press release...

Team ALINGHI

After much speculation an anticipation the new "Team Alinghi" is finally being presented.


By far the most aggressive AP to date. It will be a watch to love or hate. If you feel neither than it is likely you don't like watches to begin with. As with the first Tantalum watch AP is pioneering a new material for a watch case, "forged carbon". Nobody has used anything like this until now. Will it be as good as the materials used up until now? Don't know yet but I sure would love to test-drive this baby. Many will complain about its weight yet some do welcome light and comfortable watches once in a while.

There is no need to go into detail regarding the movement since most of you know the calibre already. It is the same one that is present inside the Polaris, a 10 minute countdown regatta chrono. I must admit that I am tempted to believe that since it is quite extreme and previous extreme models like the EOD and Montoya have done amazingly well in the grey market that this Team Alinghi will do as much.

The will be, like in the past, three versions. A bit silly since the whole thing about this watch is the full forged carbon case.







There is "one" thing that I am not particularly impressed with. Can't get used to the strap connection to the case. Just don't like the way it hooks to the case without the links. It looks sloppy, almost like cutting costs. I would recommend getting the regular rubber strap, four steel links (the ones that make the strap connect to the case) and have them PVD'ed by your local Jeweler. It would look better and you would have a deployant to boot. A kevlar strap on this baby would have been bliss...


Audemars Piguet...

Richard Mille "RM011"

I was not supposed to post these until the embargo was lifted somewhere around the 20th of March. Somebody pooped... again.

The "monster" is a Vaucher base with a Dubois Dépraz module. It is an "annual calendar-flyback-chrono" with an extra 60 minute countdown at nine o'clock. The month indicator is at 4 o'clock. A very impressive piece of kit! The price will range between 50 to 60 thousand euros. Many have been waiting for Richard to fill the huge gap between the RM010 and the RM004 which is around 80 thousand euros!!! This will likely ease the pressure on the RM004v2 order although they are entirely different animals.


It is regrettable that this watch did not see the light one year ago. It would have been a much bigger shock and would have set a higher standard when it comes to mono-compax chronos. Now there are already three mono-compax chronos out there, two of which use the 60 minutes/12 hours disposition.

Richard Mille...

How to shoot an URWERK...

... and make the Luminova sing.

TEN STEPS:

1.- Wait for the .05 to stop. (Yes, it was very hard to refrain from winding it!)
2.- Make sure both, the URWERK and your camera are fixed in a steady position. (I suggest a tripod if you have one.)
3.- Set the watch to manual focus and exposure.
4.- Use a high f-stop value to increase focus and depth of field. (Use f.16 or higher)
5.- Set an exposure time between 10 to 30 seconds. (Don't go above if you use digital, there will be too much static.)
6.- Use a remote trigger. (If you don't have one use the timer.)
7.- Use your flash to manually flash the URWERK and make the Luminova glow.
8.- Pull the trigger!
9.- Enjoy.
10.- Post in your favorite Forum.

This, of course, would work on any other watch as well. So, what are you waiting for?!?

GP "Financial Times Chrono"

We are getting close to the big shows (Geneva/Basel) and the stuff just keeps poring in. Many business school text books say; "If it works, don't fix it". Recently AP has changed that slightly to; "If it works, milk it!" with their very successful Alinghi lineup. Now Girard-Perregaux has taken another step an rephrased the whole thing to; "If it's the only think you sell, think up many different ones to keep selling them". The world chrono has been the only well selling watch in their bag for quite some time. I consider GP a great manufacturer but for some reason they just seem to go nowhere. Great finishes and serious watchmaking have been handicapped by very high discounts and very low second hand market values.

All that said the world timer is a great watch and this "Financial Times" version adds a bit of spice to the original. Who know if they keep making many different versions they might turn into a collectors item.

Girard-Perregaux...

...

You must be kidding me.


No wonder there are people that go berserk, take a shotgun and shoot indiscriminately into the general population... I am at a loss for words.

P.s. Does the model seem a "little" bloated or is it just me? ...babe, told you not to have had that bowl-o-beans before the shoot.

The King is dead... long live the King!

... what in the name...!?! This is the new daVinci? Not sure about the shape... looks like old news to me. Doesn't this look like old news to you? You judge...


I see that somebody has been pecking at their neighbors... Patek will not be happy (this chrono is a bit to close to some of Patek's stuff for my taste), and somebody else I now is going to be right out pissed. That 12 hour 60 minutes chrono on the same axis was meant to see the light last year with another brand, but unfortunately due to some unexpected events and a blatant lack of efficiency it did not. Even though the project was delayed it would have been smarter to present it and claim first place, instead to have somebody rain on your parade. Somebody talked somewhere down the line...


I wonder who has the rights to the old Porsche Design IWC watches. They look much better than any of the stuff that IWC is coming out with lately. The Portuguese is an old geezer, the Pilot's are a remnant of the past, the Ingenieur is nothing new, the Portofino looks like many other watches out there and the Aquatimer is surely nothing that will turn heads. All that said, an IWC is a fantastic watch. I just feel that unless they hire some designing muscle they will soon be added to the list of "prestigious sinking ships". I am certain that with a little "something" IWC have the potential to grow way beyond their current status.


I must admit that I am relieved to see their chrono perpetual movement in the new lineup. You just can't get better value for a perpetual anywhere.

IWC...

AMVOX 4?

Like many that follow, admire and respect Jaeger's work I am tempted to make predictions from time to time. Dreaming of how great it would be to have a ... with a ... I guess many of us do this all the time. Since my previous predictions was right (apart from rather obvious) regarding the AMVOX 3 I am tempted to make a prediction regarding the AMVOX 4. My bet would be the new Memovox movement that has seen the light inside the "GeoVox" but without the Geo. Maybe even modified to have all buttons on the same side... or maybe not. What I am certain would be awesome is the PVD look of the AMVOX 2 with this new Memovox movement, and in a 42 mm case if I might add. A little more sobriety could go a long way here. Any bets anybody?

details...
Jaeger leCoultre...

P.s. Today is Friday the 16th of February, 2007... just wanted to mention this in case somebody "claims" (like with my AMVOX 3 prediction) I got the scoop from inside sources.

Cheeeesy girl...

I just can't help it but sometimes I wonder if the management of big companies take any time at all to look at the publicity they buy. I don't know what the guy that edited this "Viceroy" spot had on his mind, unless he thought that having Shakira pick cheese-balls between her toes was representative of the brand. Word of advice: If you are one of those that think this is sexy, please make an appointment with your shrink, you have a serious cheese fetish! In some cultures, mine included, it is considered DISGUSTING to play with ones foot while talking to somebody.

To be honest, the first time I saw the spot (and ever since) the whole commercial smelled like feet. Maybe they should have pitched a cheese fondu franchise instead. Oh no! (Now I am picturing her rubbing chunks of bread between her toes...) see?.. now I vomited.

Another one bites the dust...

Because of some mysterious misunderstanding (... upsss!) many have had the chance to get a sneak peak at one of the novelties to be introduced at this years Geneva show. Apparently the pictures of the new "GeoVox" where under embargo until the 2nd of April (sources tell me that the date is on the 19th of March now). They have now hastily been removed. They only did not count on Velociphile... jejeje (maliciously rubbing my hands). He was quick to the draw and has fortunately stored and Bloged the picture to make sure that everybody see the "horror" that will soon see the light at Jaeger. Well done V!!!

I have nothing against Valentino Rossi, actually I believe like many that he is most likely the best motorcycle pilot of all times. Now, what I certainly don't share are his looks and fashion sense. Just because I admire the guy's achievements and skill that does not mean that I have to go and fix myself a look like his... or do I? There is little doubt that he has a striking charisma, yes, but every time I see him on TV I get the sense that the "kid" needs a bath and a good shave. At barely 100 pounds I could understand that he is a sex symbol for slightly mentally unbalanced Manga-loving teens but he is definitely no Clooney or Brosnan... or is he? (If I have any female readers... here is where you can correct me if I am wrong). To me it would be like choosing Kate Moss over Gisele Bündchen.


(I know it's unfair, but I couldn't help myself...)

Now, why would I do that?!? They are both international supermodels with very successful careers, but unless I was completely deranged and had a low self esteem problem my pick would be Gisele. Which one would you choose? I don't see too many guys raising their hands for Kate... So why fashion a watch to his look and not just keep his deeds in mind? I guess that Jaeger is trying to fish for customers outside their usual crowd. Logical you might think... but didn't they try that with the AMVOX R-Alarm? As far as I know it was no success, actually far from it. If they keep insisting they are going to go the Zenith route in no time and add "red fluffy hair" to their watches any time soon.

Looking at it again I must admit that this LE is a very nasty surprise. I love Jaeger's Memovox movements and would have eventually fallen for this one in due time (if it where a regular production model). Now, even if there is a non Rossi edition I just have no incentive to get this watch anymore. I guess that just spared me a trip to the money tree, as well as another headache from my future wife.

Jaeger leCoultre...

UPDATE: The pictures are back up again.

URWERK 201 "Blackshark"

Just like the 103 the 201 will have a Platinum PVD'ed version. This "thing" sends shivers down my spine. At this point I don't know if I am just biased or what ever the guys at URWERK come out with I just think is awesome. I wish there is a more "affordable" URWERK in the future. I told Felix many times that a 102 in PVD'ed steel and a price tag under 10K would be a real killer. Unfortunately, Felix's idea is not to mass produce his watches (and I don't blame him). He believes that any manufacture that crosses the 500 pieces per year mark makes looses integrity. At these quantities it makes it impossible to properly control the quality of all the produced watches. To be honest, I think he is right. Many other manufacturers have crossed that line and things do change for the worse. This year URWERK will reach about 250 pieces (of the 103's and 201's altogether) and the 500 mark will not be reached for several years.

The first Blackbird created quiet a stir and despite its very high price tag it was in much higher demand than any other URWERK to date. Things will be no different with this one. There will be only 10 pieces and people are already lining up. This means that by the time it reaches the stores it will already be gone.

There is a great 201 presentation video in Horomundi that illustrates the function of the telescopic hand. Be patient, the demonstration is around the middle of the video, don't miss this!

URWERK...

OffShore "VOLCANO"

In order to quiet some critics regarding the sometimes overrated "in-house dilemma" with the Offshore, AP have just coughedup this new in-house movement. Since this is one of their most popular movements, it was only a mater of time that they eventually make it their own. I guess the "Volcano" is only the beginning of the transition of all OffShores to the new 3126/3840 calibre.

Now, many fanatics are ready to plunge themselves in a metaphysical debate (and keep ballbusting...) about the profound and troubling intricacies regarding the modular vs. the integrated movement construction bla bla bla... Hey, I have an idea! We should all pitch in to make a sort of Mad Max "thunder-dome". We put them in there, two at a time, and then let them beat themselves to death with long soft foam sticks. Whoever gets tired first looses the argument. What do you think?

Ejem... almost forgot. It sure looks like the color combos at AP are running out. Is it just me, or are the later Offshore models stating to get on the "freakish" side? Incredibly, this one compared to some others I have seen is quite conservative (especially some LEs made for Jewelers). Not sure if it is such a good idea to make the OffShore so colorful. It's great to make the OffShore more modern, however... this will also make it an item that will eventually loose its appeal.

The Volcano will be a regular collection model (thanks for that!!!) and is expected to be shipped this month world wide. Only 300 are to be made this year. The price should be the same or in very close vicinity of the current OffShores.

Here is more info on the soon to be retired 2326/2840 calibre. Tapestry of Time...

Audemars Piguet...

BRACE YOURSELVES!!!

... for the "Team Alinghi" Offshore is coming! I have had a peak at the new Offshore to be presented in little over a month from now. All I can guarantee you is that it will NOT leave anybody indifferent. While more extravagant watch lovers will find it breathtaking I am certain that the classical watch crowd will find it absolutely horrifying.

Unfortunately this time I have have been sworn to absolute secrecy and can't divulge or even describe the piece. Darn... What I can tell you is that if you liked the "Montoya" or the "EOD" this is definitely your piece. The Alinghi Team is the most aggressive Oak to date, so aggressive in fact that it makes the Montoya look as classical as a Jumbo. If you want me to be even blunter... then I would say that the Team Alinghi is to the Montoya what Attilah the Hun is to Marie Antoinette. Definitely not a ladies watch.

I suggest you RUN to the nearest Official Dealer and put a down payment on it. Trust me, you want to do this today!

Audemars Piguet...