New look?

More news than the watch itself is the sort of modern aggressive look of the case on this Patek. I usually do not like to comment on such expensive and limited production pieces, unless they have something special about it, but this is actually worth a look. The 5207 in it self is just another run-o-the mill "mega super complication" that we are used from Patek. Nothing short of extraordinary, but like always out of the reach of most mortals. believe me, I have not asked but you do not what to know the price.

I must admit I like the case an would hate to see it go lost and not be used in more common or popular models down the line. Nice Job...

Patek Philippe...

Richard Mille "RM020"

Here is Richard Mille's vision of a pocket watch.

RM surely makes one of the few bearable Tourbillons out there. It's almost ironic that Richard would place the Tourbillon back to where it was initially conceived for, the pocket watch. It should have never left it in the first place. Not very commercial in our days but a gutsy move none the less. This movement actually looks good enough to eventually land on a wrist. Who knows, they might decide to make it in a classic wristwatch case somewhere down the line. Long power reserves on manual winding watches are a blessing. believe me, winding them only once a week is a real joy! The chain, that is connected to the crown and winds the mechanism, reminds of the tail of a Scorpion. Nice touch.

I don't see myself getting my three-piece suits out of storage to enjoy this baby but I like the boldness none the less.

Richard Mille...

Been there, done that...

Here we go. The "fu..ing" same ol' Tourbillon theme all over again. Pardon my French, but I just am sick of having manufacturers come up with Tourbillons when fresh ideas are at an all time low.

It would be sooo much smarter to promote the excellence of the stuff you already have instead of feeling that you "have" to present something just because it's April. I guess that the media is partly responsible for this. They come in April, invited, and expect to see and report on new stuff from everybody. In many cases forcing to reveal/present watches that start to get delivered to the dealers over a year later. It could be a good time to sit and reevaluate the purpose of the Basel/Geneva fairs. Expect more bullshit on the way.

P.s. Apart from boring (nothing new in my book) it also looks like crap. What in the name of god makes them think anybody would spent 200 k on this instead of an AP or Patek (idiots aside )? Sorry Lange, but if this is what you had to come up with this year... than I rather you come up empty.

First big leak of the season!

I guess it was predictable that the first leaks regarding future Basel/Geneva releases started to hit the net. Like it has happened before, Richard Mille is first to open hostilities. The RM018 also known as the "Homage to Boucheron" has just today brought to my attention by one of the Kronosclub's readers, together with this lovely picture. Since I was not given it in advance with the promise of not posting it until the official presentation date. I try to avoid that so that I have the freedom to post them when they are leaked. In the end this is what this site/blog is all about. Here you go...

My source also pointed me to the forum in question and I hate when people take credit for something that I did not post first, I have no choice but to name the source.

Time Tech Talk...

"Smorrebrod smorrebrod, rum pom pom pom..."

Magnetic fields are not a god friend of watches. If not careful these could make you go to your local service center more often than you wish and have your precious watch demagnetized. This is not the worst thing that could happen yet it could drastically alter the precision of your watch. Definitely a pain to go and have that done all the time. Because most people are so "mesmerized" by looking at the back of their movement, manufacturers make sapphire backs more than ever. (Really don't understand why. Most are equipped with the same'ol movements, and they look like shit anyway!) Sapphire backs add to the momentary delight of most gullible newbies out here... but does not help when protecting your watch against magnetism. Nothing wrong with ugly movements, the Lemania 5100 is amongst the most unpleasant ever designed, yet it's one of my all time favorite movements. ETAs, Valjoux, Unitas, etc... are indeed good, proven and reliable movements, yes. Nevertheless, they still look like crap. Needless to say that most of these are so poorly decorated that they are a torture to look at. If I had the choice between looking at these or extra protection against magnetism I would choose the latter. Hell, given the choice I would simply ask not to see them at all! Incidentally, here is a browny point to Rolex, they never budged. God knows I give them little love but credit is due where credit is due.

People with jobs near highly magnetic sources such as Doctors in Hospitals or Lawyers and Pilots that continuously cross metal detectors should consider watches such as AP's OffShore, the Ingenieur by IWC, The Pilot series by SINN, the Milgauss by Rolex etc... Except for a few exceptions all of these have movements encased inside a special antimagnetic case. This is located between the movement and the actual watch case making it impossible for you to see the back of the movement, obviously. If you have a boring life and enjoy good health, by that I mean; no travel, no court visits and no trips to hospitals close to magnetic scanners, then you should be alright, unless you have a music system that consist of a set of monstruous Wilson Watt/Puppy powered by two gigantic monophonic KRELL amplifiers (each with the power requirement of a third world county). Yes, the kind that causes your belt buckle to lounge towards your speakers every time you turn up the volume. Yep, at the same time your local Power Plant Manager is perplexed at the sudden drain of a "gazilion" watts, for no explainable reason. Then it is likely that you are dead anyway since the speakers probably removed all the iron in your body by now.

But wait! There is one source that is often overlooked. Do you cook? Are you one of the new wave of self made master Chefs? By any chance, do you happen to own one of these super modern INDUCTION kitchens? Yes? Then you are in trouble. The main principle behind induction is magnetism. If you have a compass at home you could try and bring it close to your induction plate and see if North is still where it's supposed to be. Needless to say that I cook without my watch on my wrist, recommend you do the same.

"Et tu, Brute?..."

Words can't simply express the disappointment at this news. Never in a million years could I have even dreamed of something like this happening. What a sellout. If it where April I would without a doubt consider this nothing but a cruel hoax. It is not. At this point I pray for this to me a "one shot deal", and a very extremely Limited Edition on top of it.

Putting an AP inside this... "thing" is like putting the engine of a Ferrari inside a Chevy Camaro. Disgusting. I am not certain that Chanel will benefit from this upgrade in the quest to legitimize their product to a more knowledgeable crowd. What I am certain is that Audemars Piguet will have lost much of its credibility with many of their diehard followers. Outrageous is the fact that it is a constant to hear people at AP "whine" about the lack of movements; "we can't make enough of them... can't meet the demand... we are backed-up for years..." Yeah, right. This latest move surely gives that impression.


At this point I will stop writing, I better...

IWC "Ingenieur Ceramic"

At last! An Ingenieur that turns heads. The future looked good with the new INGENIEUR series, yet the misfortune of making it an AMG Limited Edition was a bit too much "tuning" for my taste. A shame, since in the new series the AMGs where the best looking of the bunch. Putting something like that diminishes a product and makes it worthy of a display at a car dealer. A place you don't want to go buy a watch. Let's hope they stopped that nonsense by now.

It is only recently that I have seen in the flesh. I have been confronted with pictures many times, but I guess this Ingenieur is like some watches that just don't shine in pictures. This one in real life jumps at you and hits you in the eye! I looks great on medium to large sized wrists and is comfortable beyond your highest expectations. A really awesome addition to the collection.

What is especially comfortable is the Ceramic bezel that takes away the worry of scratching it. That in it self is reason enough for purchase. For those that love the Barrichello II because of its scratch proof bezel but can't afford it... this Ingenieur might just be the one for you. Granted, both have nothing to do with each other but it is a interesting non-chrono alternative. The face is incredibly detailed and well finished, right now I have only seen L.U.C. from Chopard with faces that have such depth. In spite of its size the whole shape of the case wraps around your wrist like a glove. It's so comfortable it just disappears. Plus, there is the "stop function" that sets the seconds hand at 12 o'clock for precise tine setting. That is one little option that most watch lovers like to see.

My only "but" is the sapphire back. Purists would probably like more antimagnetic properties than the view of the movement. I guess that it was put there for commercial reasons. In spite of this it is still waterproof to 120 meters which is a very acceptable ratting. The price is around the 7,000 Euros. Not cheap, but honest.

Nice work guys!

IWC...

Big Bang "Ayrton Senna"

I am not a Hublot fan, plus I find Limited Editions "banking" on famous dead people not so becoming... but it is signed by Senna. I have a soft-spot for Senna.

This BB also looks the part if you ask me and there is no doubt that it might be one of the few Hublots to fetch a better price than list. The key is the price of course. Since there will be 500 of these I would expect them to be in the very low 20's, or even below that. Bare in mind that a gold Big-Bang is in the 18 hundreds... If this should be the case than they will be in high demand. Should they tag this in the 30's or above than you might see them around for a while.

From the picture it looks like a two pusher Rattrapante. Interesting... although I think I have seen this before. I am pretty certain Hublot will claim a 100% in-house movement built and engineered from scratch in this beauty. Who knows, it might be so, why not? What is certain is that very few things are engineered from scratch these days. Even the big boys cheat once in a while. In any case I would love to read Velociphile's take on this. If anybody can debunk them that would be him. he has done so in the past and in numerous occasions.

If you are a Hublot fan and don't frown at the price (for a Hublot), you should consider making a stop at your closest Authorized Dealer. If the price for this baby is indeed close to the 20's than there will be not a single one left for you by the time they are presented at basel this April.

Hublot...

Rolex "Milgauss"

Have just been confronted with the "Milgauss", and I like it. I was not very keen on the seconds hand designed by "the Flash" and the greenish sapphire glass. Surprisingly the result is quite interesting. The whole design just works. It is not understated but it does not scream like a Daytona.

Like the entire "new" Rolex lineup, the Milgauss has a more than just good enough finishing compared with Rolexes from only five years ago. The bracelets and clasps feel much more robust and are more in tune with a watch considered to be a luxury leader. This was certainly not the case several years ago.

Looking around I must say that the price is competitive enough to make this a backordered product like a Yacht-Master or Submariner. Although I don't think it will be a coveted item like a Daytona, that is for now at least.


Rolex...

MB & F "Horological Machine No.2"

I must admit that as time goes by my taste in watches grows stranger and stranger. Loving classics like a simple Patek "Calatrava" or a Lange "Richard Lange" to exotic birds like an URWERK "Hammerhead" or Maximilian Büsser's creations. Although, like the "Idalgo" I know that I am not ready to wear these pieces... just yet. I must admit that I enjoy looking at all the design details of the "No 2". I guess that the reason for this is that designs like Büsser's are ahead of its time. This is what makes the object interesting more than awkward. These are the same feelings I have when I see Halter's or Hysek's creations. Can't stop looking at them yet I am not ready for them just yet.


What is refreshing is the new "wave" of alternative watch designers and makers that are making them selves known. Richard Mille, URWERK, Hautlence, Vianney Halter and now MB & F are a small revolution in watch designs. Combining absolute traditional watchmaking excellence with a modern aggressive design. Some of you will like one or more from this list, few will like none. Times are changing and sine in essence the watch technology is a still based on principles that were discovered hundreds of years ago and are still very much true today. Whit these new boys the rules of engagement are beginning to change. Quite a difficult task in an industry that is well known for its lethargic evolution and unwillingness to change. Because of these new designers and their commercial success many more traditional manufactures are reassessing their positions. Hence, traditional houses like Jaeger or AP that are only now daring to experiment with bolder designs. Thanks for that guys!


Actually the more y look at it I realize I would love to se this watch in a single face variant. I have a soft-spot for jumping hours and retrogrades, plus I do like the look of the Nº 2's design elements. Maybe a more serialized production and a cheaper list of something like that could do the trick? There is no doubt that these 125 units are all gone yet I would welcome a more "popular" mainstream Busser. Something like what the RM005 was for Richard Mille.

All this said, MB & F seems to know where it's going and more, it looks like it is getting there. There is already a HM3 in the oven for 2008.

MB & F...

And the winner is...

This year Patek takes the lead. The Titanium Nautilus has fetched a staggering 525,000 Euros. Not bad for what probably cost Patek lest than 5 grand to make. Is it worth that? I a purely horological standpoint, No. Is it a good investment? No doubt, Yes. You can be sure than when ever this thing resurfaces it will fetch over a million. If collectors are paying millions for old world timers and steel chronos from the 40's, you can be certain that this "Piece Unique" will do as much in several years to come.

Second (third...) was the RM011 "by S+arck" that went for 320,000 Euros. Sorry guys, can't be number one every year (although I have my doubts as to who pushed for the Patek...). There is no doubt that the RM011 is technically much more interesting than the Nautty 5712Ti. Fortunately it is better looking than last year's S+arck and far more interesting.

Now, the guys that pooped big time... Pierre Kunz. The "Chrono Sport Monaco" fetched an ASTOUNDING 12 grand. Under list. Hahaha... what a pisser!

results...

P.s. Sorry, second was the deWitt "Incognito 2008" for 400,000€. Since there is no picture of the watch it is "incognito" indeed. In any case it is a bit astounding that somebody would buy a watch they have not seen, let alone a deWitt. I really would be interested is knowing who buys and their relationship with the brands. Bidding "incognito" has its advantages. If the ties are too close for comfort with the brand (like being the general manager or owner) there should be a law against this. Inflating prices at auctions is a relatively easy and almost cheap means of promotion. Some are doing a great job at this. Off course, I am not pointing fingers... I just wonder after Pierre Kunz's poop the next watch they auction (maybe next year) will do substantially better due to a "mysterious" bider.

RM016 "Ultra Plat"

If there are any analogies in the watch world you could say that no other watch manufacturer resembles Ferrari like Richard Mille. A myth since its beginning, exclusive, very different, aggressive performance, spottable a mile away, masculine, unique, modern, sexy... I suppose that those that revere Ferrari could go on for ever. Richard has in a way achieved the same in its relatively short life which is quite impressive. What isn't surprising are the close ties with RM and many of the people in Ferrari especially in the F1 section. It suffices to say that many of the improvement and inspirations to RM watches come from the great Scuderia.

If I had to pair both, Ferrari models with RM models, then I would have to pair the RM016 with the Ferrari Mondial. Why? Because the Mondial is by far the ugliest Ferrari ever made (if it isn't the ONLY ugly Ferrari ever made). So is this Richard. The RM016 is a far leap from the other RMs, it's just FUGLY. Incidentally this reminds me of another try by AP to "reinvent" the RoyalOak by making a "rectangular-quartz-freak-show". Yes, even they make mistakes.

I am curious as to the sales of this model but I would not be surprised that it is not going to be in production for a long time. At least I hope.

Richard Mille...
Ferrari...

Who's next?

After the recent and official purchase of Richemont Group of Roger DuBuis there are bets to who will be next it line. My personal bet is that Swatch Group will make the next move. I have the feeling that Watchland (Frank Muller, Pierre Kunz, European Watch, CVSTOS) is the next one to join one of the major boys.

Now what is out there that is still interesting? Maybe any of these:

- Audemars Piguet (there is a rumor of a preferential buying option with Richemont.)
- Patek Philippe (They are all waiting for this one. Like vultures they hope for Stern to leave soon and negotiate with the "heir" to buy them out.)
- Rolex (... they can't be bought. Plus, "cash-cows" are very expensive!)
- Watchland (My bet it tat they are next in line.)
- BVLGARY (a bit too big for any of them to handle. Plus they are out shopping when ever they can as well.)
- Richard Mille (AP already got 10% and is first in line to get the rest if it ever becomes available.)
- URWERK (not interested in selling at the moment.)
- Ulysse Nardin (I wonder how come they are still on the loose?)
- F.P. Journe (not being mentioned in any possible purchases by anybody.)
- Hublot (Increasingly attractive since the Big-Bang.)
- Parmiginany (Not an attractive product but their installations and resources can be cannibalized and be put to good use doing something else.)


It is quite interesting how these purchases often don't come alone. Any bets anybody?

Where there's smoke...

Yep, so it was true in the end.

Only this piece, for now. The rest might be coming soon. The news of the sale of Roger DuBuis Movements to Richemont first hit the streets end of September only to be denied a week later. Turns out I was NOT so full of it...

Scoop...
Denial...

P.s. Keeping Carlos Dias dependant upon momements is an accident waiting to happen. Being the independent soul that he is it is difficult to picture him blending in a corporate atmosphere. Playing nice dog and rollover to the flute of a boss over you in a multinational is no easy task. Especially if you have always been your own man. I guess we will know soon enough.

How hard can it be?

With the introduction of new technologies in the watch world many are boasting and throwing adjectives that could lead to misinterpreting the actual functionality. First, there is NOTHING scratch proof in the world. Yep, not even diamonds! Anybody with children could attest to the fact that nothing is indestructible. Leave anything with them for a while, you'll see. Second, even if the case is built like a tank and it is or has been hardened to levels unknown to the industry until now, that does not mean that you can treat the watch in a much rougher manner. The movement inside the watch is still subject to the same basic laws of Physics, even if the case has been revised to fit our modern times.

What the new technologies such as AluSiC, TiAIN, Alacrite 602, Tegiment and Ceramic bring is a more "resilient" attitude towards regular wear. What it will protect you from is the constant wear of the shirt rubbing against you watch, the unfortunate "ding" against a door, the occasional rubbing against other watches... Believe me, a regular nail file will cause a maximum amount of damage with minimum force on any of these metals or metal treatments.


So, whose fault is it? Them, that explain only what they like to explain or us that like to hear only what we want to hear? Maybe the industry is partly responsible for not only involuntarily misleading customers but in failing to educate them. It is very easy for the uninitiated to assume that just because the outside is tough so is the inside. Big mistake! Casio G-Shocks are pretty tough yet even they have a limit. Things should be explained differently. Maybe giving information on the properties of the case and outlining that the insides are subject to the same "laws of destruction" as any other mechanical watch. It is quiet common that people perceive a product as a whole. If it's tough outside, than it is tough inside... The fact is that cases have evolved these last 50 years more than the movements in the past 500 years. Little has been done recently to address the issue, except Richard Mille witch has addressed the issue of shock resistance on high-end watches including silent blocks to their movements. Granted, they are all getting better but no way near the metallurgical advances.

AMVOX2 "DBS"

The tuned-up version of the AMVOX 2. Same case and movement but with more openings on the front face to see more sections of the movement.

This one will, I hope, be available sooner than the AMVOX2 "Black". There will be 999 pieces making it less collectible yet its face is a bit more interesting than the AMVOX2. What is surprising is that the price tag has not increased in comparison to the "black" one. Good move guys! Many where expecting that Jaeger would take advantage of the AMVOX2 popularity to cash-in on this one.







Jaeger leCoultre...

P.s. There is an overlooked detail, at least one that I have just noticed. The DBS has a seconds hand/disk at 6 o'clock! What strikes me as odd is why it is not present on the regular AMVOX2. Strange...

Royal Oak " George H.W. Bush"

For the 75th Anniversary of the "SAVE THE CHILDREN" foundation there will be an auction held on September 6th. Amongst the items to bid there will be this Royal Oak Chrono engraved with President George H.W. Bush’s signature.

I must admit that I am more than tempted but unfortunately I suspect that the bids for this piece could spin out off hand. These one-of-a-kind watches are very sought after pieces by collectors. Plus there is an added difficulty in getting them since the people that buy them generally do so for charity and not speculation. So it's pretty much an "end-of-the-line" for many of these pieces, since whe will most likely never see them again... ever!

If anybody is interested in biding here is the link for more details: auction...

Good luck!

P.s. To those that use the pictures from this Blog: If you are going to take them, please do so. However, please refrain from calling it a "Scoop" or putting your own website's water mark across the picture. Not mentioning the source is OK with me but using it as if it where you own that is another. Thanks.

RM013 "Planetarium Tellurium"

A picture is worth a thousand words...

Quite a pice. I dare not ask its price, and you shouldn't either! Trust me, you don't want to know.
I guess this gem is destined for somebody with a wallet as big as a whale.

Richard Mille...
details...

URWERK "103 TiAIN"

The new 103 shows promise. This revolutionary TiAIN coating sure makes this URWERK standout. This procedure hardens the 103.08 to an astonishing 3,500 vickers! Unseen until now in the industry.

It will be slightly cheaper than the gold models but only 40 will be produced per year, for now. This 103 could be the "hardest" and most sought after URWERK to date.

URWERK...

OffShore "Shaquille O'Neal"

Sure to make the delight of quite a many "gang'sta rapers" and "drive-by shooters", the Shaquile O'Neal is without a doubt one of the most "misfortuned" Limited Editions of the las decade by AP. This little, sorry, large horror is in close rivalry with Arnold's "All Stars"... another poor soul by AP. With diamonds this horrid sight gets to be one of the tackiest, tasteless and gaudy watches of the year. I would have liked a warning sign before putting my eyes upon thee. Something like; "Beware, extreme ugliness! Ingest your lunch before seeing", or "Please wear sunglasses when viewing at all times!"... would have been welcomed.

Yet another contender to this years most horrible watch award.

Audemars Piguet...