Another Retirement?

The Gondolo annual calendar in white gold has mysteriously disappeared from Patek Catalogues... Even if the reference 5135G is still to be seen on their web site, it smells like yet another unannounced retirement. Patek have been known in the past to surprise us with sudden drops of models from their lineup. What reason could have been behind this? Several come to mind;

- The white gold version was just not popular. Personally it was my favorite but I guess most people want to "show" their investment in a watch usually like it to be yellow or rose gold. Platinum people are above good and evil...
- The white gold version was just too similar in looks to the Platinum. This might have turned some Platinum people away from the Annual Gondolo. If it's too similar, it's just not right. Three small diamonds and a light gray circle are just not enough to make it worth the platinum premium price. Watch brands usually reserve the best looking faces for their most expensive models. The gray face is the best looking (IMO) and should have initially been reserved for the Platinum case. Since the white gold Gondolo was presented first, when they realized it was too late.
- The finally have seen the light and stopped production on al white gold "RODIUM TREATED" models! Well, that sounds more like wishful thinking...

In any case, retirement or not, I like Patek's retirement policy. It's just clean and to the point. Now you see it, now you don't. This sometimes causes the market to go a bit mental and the pieces have an immediate increase in value (like with the Nautilus 3712A).

As with most early retirements with Patek, information is scarce. Dealers give you different stories and the official channels are just too important to even consider talking to you. If anybody can confirm this it would be great if you could comment here.

Patek Philippe...

Old School

There is a wave of new-old classic watchmakers gaining in respect and acceptance amongst collectors. In the much appreciated classic style of the already highly revered Philippe Dufour or Kari Voutilainen, these "new-old" comers are much cheaper but still just as exclusive. Dornblüth, Mosser, Lang & Heyne, Montres Normandes, etc... are a few in this new classic wave, more concerned about doing the stuff that has been working fine until now, only better. The goal is not to waste any time trying to reinvent new ways to do what has been done for the better part of two centuries (and very successfully if you ask me). Using modern tools to reach unknown quality standards at unseen prices is just another way to interpret what modern watch making should be. The new school revolution is undoubtedly led by Richard Mille. His major contribution was to push the limits by including materials and advances that nobody has until recently dared to include in their watches. Who is right? Why not both? I guess this reminds me of the childish feud between those that swear their allegiance to the "Nouvelle Cuisine" or the classic no frills cooking. The T-bone steak versus the Fillet Mignon... personally, I like both. To me, this is a non-issue. I have no problem owning a Philippe Dufour or a Richard Mille. Both horological approaches are respectable and correct in my view. Just because one is right the other must not be necessarily wrong. Another thing is one's personal taste and choice.


It is more than likely that the current economic situation is somewhat responsible for a resurrection of this philosophy. Don't be mistaken, despite sales being back to figures 10 years ago, watches are still selling. However, buyers are still willing to pay big money for watches but more discreet things are in demand. Gold, diamonds and oversize chunky burgers are shoving the first signs of drops in sales. Even markets that were historically strong in the "bling" are starting to change their consumption habits. To be honest, discretion is not the only reason for this sudden drop in the yellow metal. One of the reasons behind this is that many that have been buying watches these last years have been mostly doing so to be seen with the watch. Completely the opposite of watch lovers, aficionados and collectors. Discretion was always a major concern for these buyers. Plus, if the shit hits the fan like it did... real collector still like watches. Granted, cheaper watches if your personal economy is hurt, but you are still in the market. It's like any other hobby that you are passionate about. If you have less money you are likely to just do it less and not completely stop. If on the other hand your purpose was to bee seen with a big shiny thing on your wrist that springs attention and admiration mostly with the wrong people, then you will have no problem in drastically cutting back on watch expenditures to zero.

The only and very unfortunate problem with small sale manufacturers is their poor or in some cases complete lack of proper pictures of their products. Selling their product becomes a difficult task if they don't even communicate on their strong point, like the movement finish. Quite a big handicap if your idea is to transmit emotion. As you can see from the pictures posted here, it's just not what it should be. Trust me, these are the handful of acceptable pictures. The others are well bellow even amateur photography standards. I understand that communication departments are expensive but there must be an effort made or else it will be very complicated to adequately reach customers. Pictures already have a hard time transmitting the full impact of most watches.

A word of advise; If you are interested in "old school" you should make the effort to see these pieces in the flesh. Believe me, they are worth a detour.

Philippe Dufour...
Kari Voutilainenr...
Dornbüth & Sohn...
H. Mosser...
Land & Heyne...
Montres Normandes...

DON RAMON event on the 20th of May...

As we are getting closer to the 20th, the official presentation of the "Don Ramon de la Cruz", there are several details that are unknown to most.

Those lucky enough to be "Don Ramon" owners will only need to show up at the airport on the day of the presentation to pickup their watch. This means that everything from thereon is organized by AP. Don Ramon owners will be invited to the limousine service, hotel, lunch, entertainment and dinner. The first wave of Don Ramon watches will all be delivered on the day of the presentation. NOT A SINGLE DON RAMON WILL BE DELIVERED BEFORE THIS DATE. There might be pieces still available because many have chosen special numbers. Many of the requested numbers might be delivered later. Those that chose a special number for their Don Ramon and will be delivered after the 20th are still invited to the presentation and following events. The schedule for the Don Ramon presentation is as follows;

2oth of May Pickup at the Madrid Airport and drop-off at the Villa Magna Hotel (***** GL)

14:00 - 20:30 Delivery of the Don Ramon watches to their owners
14:30 - 16:00 Presentation cocktail of the Don Ramon at the AP Boutique Madrid
16:00 - 17:30 Return to the Hotel to rest or go shopping
17:30 - 18:00 Meeting at the AP Boutique and brief presentation to "Bullfights"
18:00 - 18:30 Transfer from the AP Boutique to the Bullfighting arena "Las Ventas"
19:00 - 21:30 Bullfight (optional)
21:30 - 22:00 Transfer from the Bullfighting arena to the Hotel
22:00 - 01:00 Don Ramon dinner for owners and spouses/partners at the Hotel restaurant "Eneko" (one Michelin star)
01:00 After dinner drinks at the Hotel Bar...

It is impressive that AP would take care of their customers from arrival until departure of their customers. Spouses and partners are also invited even if they have not purchased the "Don Ramon Lady" model. The Bullfight might not be very politically correct yet I recommend that you go and see this if you have not. The Madrid arena of "Las Ventas" is considered the Mecca of bullfighting. This does not mean that the bullfight is going to be memorable, you never know...

There are 100 Offshores Gent and 50 Offshores Lady. Both are numbered and have a price of 36,000 Euros. The Gent and Lady Don Ramon will come with a rubber and hornback strap. Before delivery the owner can decide on the size of strap and if they choose their initials "hot-stamped" on the back of the crocodile hornback strap (pretty cool). The options are; small, medium or large. There are no discounts and they do not ship any watches overseas.

If anybody is interested you can contact the Madrid Boutique at +34 91-781-8060. All employees at the Madrid Boutique speak fluent english. Their opening hours are 10:00 to 14:30 and 17:00 to 20:30, Madrid/Paris time.

Audemars Piguet...

P.s. I should charge BIG bucks for this...

Ulysse Nardin "Chairman"

You would think it is a symptom when a watch manufacturer's main novelty at a fair is a mobile phone. If it is, then I am certain that it is not a good one. When Ulysse Nardin presented the "Chairman" I was sort of surprised to see then embark on this route. Actually, the last watch manufacturer y expected to see in this battle. The design was interesting initially although after further inspection it turns out that the product is flawed in many, many ways.

The first flaw is what in a way makes it special. The kinetic rotor. For one I do not think that this would be an adequate power source for a mobile phone. There is no way that a mobile phone gets the activity that your wrist does. Inside your pocket or on a table the rotor is completely redundant. Hence, if you wish to charge it by means of the rotor you will end up embarking on a rather "obscene" workout. Quite stupid for a phone that will most likely be priced in the absurd range. So, the result is that you paid a whole lot of money to look like a fool once your battery is down... I wonder how this would look in a bar when you are trying to pickup a girl and she has a friend. You need to call your buddy to team up for the kill... It's 2 o'clock in the morning... your battery is almost dead... will you go to the bathroom to give it a good, jerk? I guess I have no need to go any further.


The second flaw is the software. Support will be highly doubtful. Believe me, if they say otherwise they are lying! Software support was less than satisfactory when Vertu first started and they had Nokia behind them. It is a fact that all smartphone software is still crapy and buggy unless you are an iPhone. Lest face it, if you want a smart phone you would go with and iPhone or a Blackberry. If you want a good looking high-end phone you want a Vertu with a straightforward, clean, not-so-buggy Symbian 40 software.

The third and fatal flaw is its size. It just HUMONGOUS! Way larger than an iPhone, any Blackberry, all HTCs and even Sony-Ericsson's P1. Hell, it's practically the size of a PSP!!! In these days you really have to be a whole new level of retarded to come up with something like this and think it will sell. Believe me, in the mobile phone business the LAST thing you want to do is go Panerai!

The design on the other hand is a matter of personal taste. Personally, the more I look at it, the less I like it.

Ulysse Nardin...

Seamaster "Ploprof 1200M"

The second surprise from Omega at Base. The Ploprof 1200M. Not a very sexy name but the reborn replica is a very attractive watch indeed. The 70's DNA is unmistakable although I would go with anything except that "Milanese" bracelet that apart from not being very becoming it looks more lake a great way to shave your wrist. Hairy dudes be careful!

Unlike the mythical Ploprof from the begging of the 70's this one has doubled its performance from 600 meters to 1,200 meters. Useful? Not really, but what the hell! Why not? Even if wristwatches are not as important for diving today, because they have been replaced by Suntoo or Aladdin diving computers. The Ploprof 1200M is truly a "real" no bullshit diver. Everything is where it should be. Straight to the point with no time wasted on secondary gimmicks.

Unfortunately there is a "but". The price. At around 5,000 Euros (about 6,500 dollars) it is a bit steep for a simple diver that does nothing but go deep. For much less you get you hands on SINN's U2 and that will do the same (actually a little more...) for almost a third of the money. Granted, it is not as sexy as this re-issued vintage yet right now the SINN U2 is still the top in the diver range.

Omega...

Speedmaster "Apollo 11"

First, I would like to apologize for the long silence but I have been very busy. I am going to resume posting stuff here and attempt to catchup with all the stuff from Basel this year. I hope to be back on track with everything in the next two weeks.

I have always been a fan of the Speedmaster. Historical, mythical, straight to the point and within a reasonable price range. You just can't go wrong even if lately the Swatch Group have been working on this not being true anymore. The "Apollo 11" I must admit I was impressed with at the Basel show.

I was not able to see it in the flesh and look at the back (no time!) yet I like the logo of the Apollo 11 better than the other that have been part of the series. Actually the other are rather crappy decals. This one looks good, really good. Good enough for me to actually go to Omega and take a closer look.



Omega...

Don Ramon

The new "Don Ramon" is finally in the last stages of manufacturing and will be delivered end of April. UPDATE: The first batch will be delivered simultaneously to the first customers the same day as the official presentation. The event will take place May 20th at the AP Boutique in Madrid. Perhaps the most attractive feature of this piece is the Black Luminova on the hands and numbers. So that you get an idea of what this would look like, let me demonstrate...

LIGHTS ON:

LIGHTS OFF:

As you can see the effect is quite dramatic to say the least. I, for one, am not really a fan of oversized gold watches but this offshore looks more than just acceptable. Rose gold is better than yellow plus the black screws and dark tones of the face and strap become this piece quite well. Personally, I would like to change the strap for either that of a Barrichello II or even the one of the Survivor. Although the Hornback strap is of a less conspicuous design than a Volcano or Safari I think that it has been overdone a little. Many think that the Safari should be the only watch to have this strap. I think that they are right.

There are 100 available exclusively at the recently opened "Don Ramon de la Cruz" Boutique in Madrid. Other AP Boutiques around the world might have a limited number of these too. Boutiques trade pieces amongst each other to supply their local VIP customers with foreign "exotic" pieces so that there is no need to travel abroad.

It is custom for the AP Boutique in Madrid to arrange private transportation for all those that come for a watch. A car with a driver will be waiting for the customers to be picked up at the Madrid airport. Should the stay require to be overnight, then the hotel is arranged as well as the next day drop-off at the airport. Nice detail, especially if you don't know the place and have difficulty with the language. This "new" way to attend customers is part of this Boutique's new philosophy. The idea is to take the service to a whole new level. This goes further than only selling but first to give adequate service to customers.

P.s. By the way... it is not confirmed but it might be that all current/future owners of a Don Ramon will have the "preferential" right to have first pick at the next Don Ramon (if there should be one in the oven...). By preferential I mean that it will be presented first to all the Don Ramon owners, even before the press, so that they might have the possibility to choose numbers etc... Once the previous Don Ramon owners have decided if they choose to get the next watch the remains will be available for all the interested clients. This might sound harsh but it is a way not only to create a link between the customers and the Boutique but also a way to limit speculation. This is not confirmed though...

Audemars Piguet...

Porsche Design "P'6920"

I wonder... there is nothing really extraordinary about this Valjoux rattrapante, apart from sharing the only good looking "Porsche Design" design by Eterna. At what price will the P'6920 be presented at? Similar products range at around 5,000 € with the IWCs going close to the 12,000€ mark. What about this one?

This new rattrapante takes after the design of the unique Porsche "Indicator". (If you ask me, they should make them all in this design and drop the other crap.) This rattrapante is a very attractive watch. Unlike the Indicator it is of a more humane size. Its proportions are 45 mm wide and 15 mm thick. These proportions are very similar to an AP OffShore. The original Indicator was practically a burger, not by choice of design but because of the complexity of the movement. The chrono indications for minutes and hours are displayed by two rotating disk unlike the classic hands. Probably less efficient when needing a quick read but looks good to me. On the negative side; I would have killed that crummy date indicator at three o'clock, or at least have a date in a small window.

Commercially it is risky that Porsche Design would go ahead and do this piece disregarding the feelings of people that paid a whole lot for an Indicator. This is probably why I have the feeling it will not be cheap. Hence, in this economy, a total disaster. Piss-off their own customers and gain no new ones. Smart...

I guess that the success of this piece ultimately boils down to price. Most other Valjoux rattrapante sold are more prestigious in name (actually, all are!). Especially IWC. So, I would think that this P'6920 should be no more than 12,000€. Compensating for lack prestige is the design of the watch that makes it somewhat different to similar products. Personally I would think that 9,000€ would be a very competitive price and could actually turn this Porsche design to be a hit. Well, if they pretend to go after AP's OffShore market and place this at 15,000€... than it is obvious that there are some people at Eterna smoking the wrong kind of Ganja! But, If they are going to price this in the 19,000€ range than they are headed for a Zenith Defy Xtreme crash!!! Believe me, people are just not THAT retarded.

Porsche Design...

MB & F "HM2 Ceramic"

Almost forgot! I was finally face -to-face with the new HM2 in its ceramic variant. As expected, it's a great piece!

I must admit that I am a bit disconcerted. I am not really a big fan of "horizontal" watches yet the HM2 has me sold. Maybe because it is actually thin and perfect for a jacket or simply because it transgresses the classic boundaries of watch case designs. I don't know. The only thing I know is that the more I see it, the more I understand it. This coming from a guy that is more and attracted to boooring classical pieces. Weird.

I really think that the MB&F pieces are not marketed the proper way. There is no real sense of what the watch looks like on the wrist. It is imperative for them to have commercial wrist-shots. Professionally made pictures similar to the ones made by Dunhill when selling cufflinks. This would be the only way to really give an idea of size proportion and how well the pieces really sit on the wrist. I have already described the general feel of the watch on the wrist in a previous post (here...) yet unless people can really see the pieces there is little that can be done to convey the real fit of the pieces.

As I mentioned earlier, ceramic in this piece is definitely the way to go. It reduces the visual impact and adds a very welcomed scratch resistance. Perfect combination. Although it looks easy and straightforward to make, I held the ceramic plate in my hand and my first thought was; " this thing must have been a nightmare to machine..!" When asking Max about this he not only corroborated that but told me that for a short while it was uncertain that they could be made at all. Thank good for his persistence they will be made after all. Ufff... close call.

MB & F...

RM004v2: What legends are made of...

Regardless of what I think of the RM025 "hockey-puck" (sorry, couldn't help it...) there is one aspect here that I find particularly interesting. The removal of the "rattrapante" function from this variant of the RM008 calibre. Oddly, few have commented about that calibre modification and its commercial consequences. This is a very interesting development as far as I am concerned. Could it be that the RM008v2 and especially the RM004v2 are close to see their end? Will they be substituted by the same movement but without the ratrapante complication?

I am almost certain that the RM004v2 is far from being a profitable watch to Richard Mille. Most of the difficulty in this piece is due to the rattrapante complication. Believe me, despite the price, you are getting much more for your money than you are really paying for. When analyzing quantities that can be produced and difficulty in making, this watch should be up in the price range with a Tourbillon. Fortunately for all those who are lucky enough to have one the price is not in that range. (I guess it would be difficult to explain the Tourbillon price without the Tourbillon...) A while back, not having a RM004 would have meant that there was a substantial gap between the first prices (RM005) and the second prices (RM002). Without the RM004 the gap would have been of almost 200k. Don't get me wrong, the RM004 was never meant to be a "filler". It was in fact one of the first projects by RM. To completely design a new Chronograph from scratch posed an immense challenge. to this day I believe that it only saw the light because of political and not commercial reasons. Demand was brutal for the RM004 with 400 outstanding orders and a production limit of 15 to 25 pieces per year... you do the math. With the arrival of the RM011 it was foreseen that demand for the RM004 would calm down. Many that wanted a Richard Mille Chrono would turn for a RM011 instead. Unfortunately, or I should say fortunately, this was not the case. The RM011 went like hot cakes while the demand for the RM004 did not decrease. In fact it has become, despite criticism, a "grail" watch today more than ever. (Surprising, considering its price.) Although them both being chronos by RM (saving some distance...) they simply appeal to two completely different crowds. Hence, the supply/demand problem for the RM004 still persists. RM004s are, despite the crisis, still hard to come by.

With the new RM025 and the removal of the rattrapante complication this could change. I have always thought that the RM004v2 would not last. Manly because of the complexity of the manufacturing. The removal of the rattrapante complication could mean a way to cheapen the product for the customer, make it easier to manufacture and more viable for RM. Quite frankly, apart from the breathtaking beauty of a rattrapante movement what is it really good for? Could it be that many out there would trade that with a flyback, less complicated to manufacture, sturdier and 30k cheaper RM004 version? Or would you not? Could this mean that there could be a RM021,22 or 23 along that line? Hard to say but it would make sense. I am being a bit hypocritical here since I would go for the rattrapante hands down, yet I understand that others would rather have option "B".

Richard Mille...

Linde Werdelin "SpidoLite"

There sure is a lot of stuff going on at Linde Werdelin lately. Considered the ultimate gadget watch by many, Linde Werdelin is moving into a hole new league with their latest introductions. To be honest, it is hard to look away. The "Sea Instrument" is a great piece of kit and the new "Land Instrument" could leave electronics like the Suunto bitting the dust. Electronics-wise you could find similarities with B&O. Fantastic design, ease of use and functionality are key here. You will always have detractors saying that it is just too expensive and that you can get the same hardware at a lesser price. Yes, could be true, yet ironically all the stuff I own from B&O looks good still today. My twenty year old B&O music system still sits happily in the bedroom, with the consenting approval of my wife that is. Could you say the same about your twenty year old SONY?

Generally in the electronics segment these factors are often overlooked and users get rather complicated, under-designed and untested tools that are many times supplied with instructions booklets the size of telephone listings. When this happens it's simply because they cut the development and testing expenses. The less work they make at the final stage of the product, the more YOU need to work in order to operate the phone, camera, stereo, television, etc... With their two instruments LW have done much of that work for you already. Operating the instruments becomes child's play. Many people overlook the fact that it is the software and testing that take the longest. In some cases this is more expensive than the development of the hardware.

After the very welcomed "Black-DLC" there is a new LW. The "SpidoLite" is not only a new development but also different direction for LW. The open dial titanium SpidoLite is a show by itself, yet with a movement by Svend Andersen they are tackling a whole new kind of crowd. The selection of Svend Andersen for the movement of the SpydoLite is a bit awkward for most yet a very interesting choice. Probably more interesting than if it where any of the usual suspects like Valjoux, Unitas, Vaucher, GP, etc... This choice could actually work since most of us like contradictions. Like a classic independent watchmaker inside a modern sports watch for instance? The black-DLC SpidoLite with the yellow sapphire looks the part. I hope that on the final version it will be like the Milgauss where the green is only predominant on the edges of the sapphire crystal. Prices will be around the 8,000 € for the Svend Andersen version. I have no info on the others yet but expect them to be lower.

Linde Werdelin was a personal bet of mine and I am very happy with the way the company is facing the future. As a watch nut and electronics addict this certainly was a product made for me. With the latest development I can't but agree. The designs look great and give the LWs a new dimension. There are more news on the way to be presented this year. I can't wait to see these in Basel this year.

Linde Werdelin...

P.s. I would like to now what you guys think of these new pieces and LWs new strategy. Right, wrong? Positive and negative comments are welcomed...

URWERK "Tarantula"

Apart from the Cobra, the star at URWERK this year was the very anticipated "Tarantula". It was worth the wait. I don't cease to be amazed at the versatility of the 103. The options seem to be endless. The 103 is an incombustible machine. The Tarantula is stainless steel treated with AlTiN (Aluminium, Titanium, Nitride). This renders the Tarantula only second hardest after a diamond. The AlTiN finish gives it a mat shine that is different from their previous "BlackBird" versions that where blackened platinum. Both are unique and very different in feel and touch. The Tarantula is also considerably lighter than gold and platinum (obviously...) making it very comfortable to wear. The black effect makes it also look smaller, dramatically smaller than the precious metal versions. It feels like a sports watch despite it being initially a dress piece. In truth, it is so radically different from the classic 103s that getting a Tarantula, even if you already own a rose or white gold 103, does not pose any conflicts. Despite them being the same watch I would not be surprised if most buyers for this piece are already URWERK owners and have no plans to sell their current URWERKs (if they can afford to keep both that is...).

The new open top displays the function of the hour satellites to a maximum. Unlike the previous models the disks rotate several times before reaching the desired time. The classic 103s rotated the disks outside the field of view. The new frame on top of the satellites helps the owner to concentrate on the actual time. Understandable since with all in the top open it would be spectacular (especially at night) yet very confusing for a quick read. I initially feared that "because" of that frame the Luminova would not charge, yet this is unfounded. The Luminova charges to its fullest amount in 30 minutes with a normal light source and should last for over 48 hours. After one hour the intensity will have settled evenly amongst all Luminova indices. This means that after several hours into the night it will be of no consequence that all Luminova is charged or not at the same time. There is actually an upside to this new design. Luminova is perishable and the more you charge it the sooner it will loose performance and start to age. With this new frame you prevent unnecessary and prolonged exposure to direct sunlight.

Despite the Tarantula being one of my favorites this year I can't help but feel that it is time for the 103 to move on. It might be time to start setting the plans for a 104. Sometimes the best way to preserve the past is to look into the future. If there is interest to maintain the unique character on the 103 at a suitable heir would be needed. Too many versions end up confusing customers and stretching the possibilities of collectors. The Tarantula would be the perfect occasion for a transition to a new 100 series URWERK. There is no telling when and what is in URWERK's pipeline. What ever it is I have the feeling it will be more than just notable.

URWERK...

URWERK "Cobra"

Going to visit URWERK has become one of the highlights of every SIHH. I am still amazed that such a small watchmaker is capable of developing and presenting new things every year. While giants like Jaeger or AP have a wast amount of resources and brainpower, small manufacturers like URWERK that produce about of 200 units per year rely on the proficiency of their founders alone. It must be an incredible effort to be able to bewitch watch lovers year upon year. The new "Cobra" (that will officially be presented in April) simply bogles the mind. To think that this is based on a Prototype by one of the great Patek watch makers is simply extraordinary. When Luis Cottier (father of Patek's "World Time") made this piece, completely out of his traditional path of design, Patek simply was not up to the task nor had the guts to make these. In fact, it is not really clear if the original Cobra actually works. Cottier's Cobra landed in the Patek Philippe museum as an oddball. It is only now, over 50 later that Felix and Martin resuscitate the Cobra.

The idea is to use a linear indication of time with the means of two cylinders. both are placed in parallel and as the rotate they give a linear display of time. Graphically similar to the Cadillacs from the 60's but completely different in concept and in difficulty.

Even if they say that the Cobra is a titanic feat, I am not sure they are yet conscious of their extraordinary achievement. There is no doubt in my mind that Felix and Martin are going to be part of horological history in the future. With understandable doubts in the minds of collectors as to the longevity of brands during hard times such as these, I am certain that URWERK will not only prevail but grow. Martin is a design "monster" and Felix has his feet well planted on earth like few in this business.

In any case, I have seen the piece, there are two working and fully finished pieces and they are simply mind-boggling. Unfortunately it will be presented in April and until then there will be no more info... darn.

URWERK...

Jaeger leCoultre "Grande Reverso"

The other pleasant novelty of this years SIHH is the oversize and ultra-slim Reverso. I can't begin to tell you how happy I was when these where first rumored to be in the pipeline. At last I had the chance to see them in the flesh. Finally a Reverso that would fit a large size wrist! It was long overdue if you ask me. The mythical Reverso was shrinking these last years due to everything else around it growing. Despite the latest and larger Reversos, they where still not quite the proper size. Even the previous large 8-Day manuals where a tad too small. The introduced Squadra did not really fill that need either. It is a more sporty version of the Reverso but not really a classic Reverso. Now, these new resized pieces are another story. Simply perfect in size while remaining as thin as posible. Exceptionally elegant and refined despite the increase in size. Unlike others that get bigger and often loose in class, the new Reverso actually gains in that respect.

There are two models presented for now. A simple version with a sapphire back and a duo-face in black and white. Both are very aggressively priced with the base starting at slightly over 4,000 € and the duo-face under 7,000 €.

When I see these I can't help but dream for an 8-Day GMT or a Grande Sport Chrono in this large but slim Reverso case. If these work commercially expect more to come in the future.

Jaeger leCoultre...

Enamel...

For those with special requests Jaeger is pushing its "Enamel Special Request" division more than ever. The pieces are simply breathtaking, even under a 10x loupe. Having people with these skills it would be a shame not to. Reversos with only one side have been personalized with initials, logos and even artwork for quite some time now. This now extends to other products from Jaeger.

You can either personalize a Reverso, Atmos or even a Master Minute Repeater to what ever your heart desires (within the subtle boundaries of taste, that is...). Most request are from paintings owned by collector that wish to have replicated on the watch. Prices vary quite dramatically on a Reverso or an Atmos. The work should range from 14,000 € and upwards on a Reverso to well over 50,000 € on an Atmos depending of the complexity of the drawing and time spent to execute the artwork.




This is probably one of the few times that you value something other than a mechanism on a watch. I don't see myself as a client for something such as this but I admire the work none the less.

Jaeger leCoultre...

Jaeger leCoultre "Navy Seal Diving Alarm"

There is no sense hiding that Jaeger leCoultre are amongst my favorites. This year instead of presenting a battery of ultra complicated and expensive pieces Jaeger have decided to go with the lover range and produce an offer that will work quite well in these times.

The "Navy Seal Memovox" is a real beauty, some even venture to call it the next Polaris. I would not be surtprised if they where right, this is a great piece! The only thing I do not understand is why this is not a regular production model. I believe Jaeger are passing on the chance to have a permanent best seller in their catalogue.

Perhaps one of the most surprising aspects about it is the incledibly thin looking face. For some magic optical effect the hands and face seen to be very close to the glass making it look quite shallow. This despite being around 12 mm think, like any diver out there. The proportions of the case are very well balanced and even if it is a large 44 mm diver it is not a huge monster. In fact, this could even be worn with long sleeve shirts. Not ideal, but possible. This "Navy Seal" is proof to 300 meters (1,000 feet) and yet the titanium case transmits the sound of the alarm as if it where an AMVOX1. The ceramic bezel works wonders apart from being a "must have" feature by now for a sports watch. It works also to accentuate the relatively shallow perception of the face. The placement of the brand and logo on the inside of the glass, so as to maintain a clean look on the face, works wonders. The classic solution would have been to place them on the turning alarm disk. This solution works better for me. There will be up to four different straps available; Articulated rubber, cordura fibber leather, titanium, moulded rubber and a diver kevlar strap as present in the box.

The list price for this Navy Seal will be 8,900 € which is surprisingly well priced considering precedents such as the Polaris (that was priced at 10,500 €). It will be limited to 1,500. Egoistically, I would have loved these to be much less, yet I expect these to be in such high demand that they might turn out to be to few. Remember that the Compressor Memovox has been discontinued and there is no diver alarm available in their entire catalogue (apart from the Polaris replica, although that would be more a collectors piece). I base my prediction on the fact that this is a product that, like the Polaris, has been demanded by the public for some time. If you need proof that just take a look here (Link here...). As you can see further down, the piece "thought" by Velociphile dates as far back as February 2005 and looks frighteningly familiar.

Jaeger leCoultre...

FERRARI by Panerai

Now, this could be just another chapter of the X-Files. Taneenoneenoneee... After THREE, yes THREE previous and unsuccessful attempts (Longines, Cartier, Girard-Perregaux)... somebody decided that they HAD to give it another try. What in the name of good would lead one to believe that now this could work? As I predicted a year ago, the "Ferrari by Panerai" has not been a hot item to say the least. Granted, it was a match made in heaven, in theory. It is obvious by now that there is little chemistry between both. Mixing two good things don't always make a great thing. Mix a 21 year old Scotch with a triple distiled Russian premium Vodka and you get a notoriously horrible experience, a headache the size of Nebraska and a sizable bounty on your head in the entire Scottish highlands. Yet the Ferrari by Panerai are quite a good product. If you ask me, I would even dare say that some are better than the regular Panerai. The flaw of this plan was really woven from the start. The attempted to "bank" on Ferrari owners as a strategy was clearly not the way to go. In business, if you expect a sure sell, then better have a contingency plan ready. Ferrari owners, all I know at least, want an OffShore (preferably in gold). Ferrari owners are "status" buyers and Panerai, although widely recognized... just don't cut it.

Unfortunately, the very same thing that was meant to attract sales, the prancing horse, is the very thing that prevents this watch to be a bestseller. Makes sort of sense; if you don't have the car you look like you settled for the watch... if you got the car plus the watch, then you only need a shirt and cap to look like a complete dork. There is nothing wrong with the product, it's impeccable. Don't like all of them but some are actually quite buyable. If it where not for the Ferrari logo I would have not doubted to bounce on the Minerva chrono or even the new "California". (As expected there where NO pictures of that piece in the press kit). This regular PVD-DLC rattrapante chrono is more than just a good buy considering the quality of the face and general finish. Yet... the horse. Don't be surprised that these would sell much better if they just had "Panerai" on them.

I am not sure how long this venture is going to last. What I am certain is that when it is over all these might actually become quite a collectors item. Panerai have a way of getting very collectible if they are bashed by collectors at first and then loved once retired. The latest example was the ceramic Radiomir with the two divers on top of a torpedo (looked like a massive dildo to me). Once they removed that disturbing picture the ceramic Black Seal has been steadily increasing its value. Same thing happened when GP gave up they Ferrari line. Despite them being downright ghastly! I have heard no rummers yet, but the economic situation the way it is it could happen rather sooner that later. If this happens, be ready to snatch one because I suspect they could be very desirable in a not too distant future.

Ferrari by Panerai...

Panerai

Some so much and others so little... Panerai, unlike Lange, have got their press kit completely wrong. Two discs, one USB key and a whatever gift (that I gladly passed on to my neighbor). No pictures of their two new calibers and many pictures of stuff that looks all the same. I really wish that brands stop giving presents to the press. The only thing it encourages is to have the wrong people attend your happenings for the wrong reasons. I also feel that it is wrong to constantly get presents for doing ones job. It just sends the wrong message. I wonder if any of these brands aware that if the press go to visit them it is only because they want their publicity money? Save the gifts and give them to "real" customers or aficionados. They will surely welcome the gifts with more gratitude.

The most interesting Panerai product this year are the two in-house "Manifatura" movements and the return to the price range that seemed to be abandoned lately by Panerai. I guess the open complaints from diehard Paneristi have had an effect after all. Thank god they listened! Looking at the current economic situation this can't come at a better time. The first to get this new automatic 72 hour power-reserve movement will be a Luminor 1950. The pricing will be just above the 4,000€ mark. Which considering the piece is more than very reasonable. the new Luminor is also fitted with the new bracelet. A big improvement over the previous version.

The two new calibre presented where an automatic to be used as a base calibre in the future and a rattrapante chrono. The only problem I see with both these movements is that one is 8 millimeters think ant the other just nearly reaches one centimeter. This means that if you wish to use the rattrapante movement and you wish to make it water-resistant to 300 meters (30 ATMs) you will end up with a BURGER that would be around TWO centimeters thick. Now, how about their other entry level in-house movement. If it where to be used as a base and a module to be added on top you can easily add an extra 3 millimeters to the equation. Now, I don't get it. Wasn't the trent regarding size and especially the thickness going down..? If you are developing stuff from scratch why wont you make it versatile enough to fit in any future model? A key factor is to make it as thin as can be so that it may fit as many cases as possible. Can you picture a 45 millimeter Radiomir with a 20 mm case? Need I say that there are no pictures of the burgers... sorry, movements in their press kit?

Upssss... forgot Hulk's watch! At a whopping 60 millimeters we have the The "Egiziano"! Nothing to object to it. In fact I like that replicas are made of mythical watches. In this case it is really just an "item" for collector and not really a wearable watch. At 300 units I am not certain many non-collectors will ever get a chance to buy-for-use. Actually, I wonder how long it takes for the first pictures of this "behemoth" on Beckham's wrist are in the media... Even the fellow presenting it admitted that it was just impossible to wear casually on your wrist. I must admit I would have liked them to make it in steel, like the original one, and not in Titanium. Would have also been useful when going out. Somebody get on your case, just throw him your watch. Hit him in the head, hospital journey guaranteed.

Panerai...

A. Lange & Soehne

I must say that Lange made first place in the best/smartest/useful/intelligent press gift/kit this year. Unlike the useless garbage and tons of paper that you are given at the end of the product presentations (really convenient if you still have miles to walk and seven hours more to go). This time they gave a simple black paper notebook (the kind Colombo used) with all information in it. When I say all, I mean all. The miniature USB key included inside had not only the presented novelties but ALL, yes ALL the current watch catalogue as well. Including high-res pictures of the movements. Simply spectacular. The whole thing fits in your pocket. I only wish that the rest of brands would do the same.

I already reviewed their star of the show, the Richard Lange "Pour le Merite". There is little more to be said other that it is an extraordinary piece. The more I see it the more I find it sublime. Here are some of the pictures of their little "fusée-and-chain" wonder... By the way, the rose gold will, be priced at around 80,000€ which is pretty much what was expected.


Apart from these beauty there is the new 1815 that is now larger at 40mm. Much better if you ask me since its predecessor is by now almost a women sized piece. Like everything that comes from Lange the finishing is simply poetry. The prices star at 14,000€ for all three gold versions. (Incidentally, I was wondering if I should get this 1815 or the Ralph Lauren? Hmmm... tough call.)

You can also bet that the movement of the RL is very similar in finish and design to this Lange (cough, cough...). It is with utter regret to tell you that RL did not add pictures of their calibre in their press kit...

Now that they gave the 1815 a litle push in size waht about the Datograph? I am certain that sales would sore for a 43mm Dato despite the economic situation. Although I love the piece I still find the proportions between thickness and width completely off. It is way too chubby. If their religion does not permit them make a larger case for an already used movement than just take the movement and add a power reserve or double barrel as an excuse. The result would have me camp outside my jeweler like a nerd for an iPhone.

A. Lange & Soehne...