Zenith, no, please stop it, stop the torture! If I see one more Open ChronoMaster my head will explode. Worse, I am sick of "El Primero" everywhere. Those that know what it is already know it's in there. The ones that don't, just don't give a shit. Really.
I remember back when Zenith was only an obscure to the general public yet highly respected manufacturer. Appreciated by many insiders and collectors alike a decade ago, today it seems to be stuck in the past. It's as if they are going nowhere (except their price, that has been going way north). What once was a great powerhouse is stuck mechanically in the past and has turned rather to glamour-promotion than thechnological feats. It's almost as if "El primero" was a curse instead of an achievement. They seem unable to move on.
... and that term, "Neo-Vintage"... what the hell? Wait! I got one for you, "Neo-Crap". Nice he?
Zenith...
Richemont buys Roger DuBuis...
Yep, that sure sounded as a surprise. Carlos Dias has reportedly sold Roger DuBuis for 600 million Swiss Francs.
Looking at precedents I am confident that Richemont will be able to do something with this purchase. Will Roger DuBuis be a respectable house after all? Let's see a year from now...
Let's see who is next.
Richemont Group...
Roger DuBuis...
Looking at precedents I am confident that Richemont will be able to do something with this purchase. Will Roger DuBuis be a respectable house after all? Let's see a year from now...
Let's see who is next.
Richemont Group...
Roger DuBuis...
UPDATE: Nautilus 30th Anniversary
Ok, we are getting closer. This is what I know for know;
- There will be three models. A Jumbo, a Moon and a Chrono.
- Although the Chrono will be presented on the 11th it will have a delay in delivery of at least 2 months. It seems that the seconds hand of the chrono was too light and "vibrated" when in action. They had to redesign the seconds hand and remanufacture them, a delay is inevitable. I must admit that although I am disappointed at the delay I am very glad Patek did not just look the other way and addressed the issue immediately. A few manufacturer would not have even noticed (I recall flaws like screws falling off a certain model by a certain High-End manufacturer).
- The case of the new Nautilus will have several "slight" changes. The side "wings" will be reduced, the resulting case will harmonious than the older model. The new case will be thicker and in a more soft convex shape (that is unconfirmed though).
- The Chrono will not have an annual calendar complication.
- The Chrono will be automatic and based on the 5960. Which means that it will be modular. What I don't know yet if it is a tricompax, bicompax or like the 5960 has the counters of the chrono in the same axis.
More next week...
- There will be three models. A Jumbo, a Moon and a Chrono.
- Although the Chrono will be presented on the 11th it will have a delay in delivery of at least 2 months. It seems that the seconds hand of the chrono was too light and "vibrated" when in action. They had to redesign the seconds hand and remanufacture them, a delay is inevitable. I must admit that although I am disappointed at the delay I am very glad Patek did not just look the other way and addressed the issue immediately. A few manufacturer would not have even noticed (I recall flaws like screws falling off a certain model by a certain High-End manufacturer).
- The case of the new Nautilus will have several "slight" changes. The side "wings" will be reduced, the resulting case will harmonious than the older model. The new case will be thicker and in a more soft convex shape (that is unconfirmed though).
- The Chrono will not have an annual calendar complication.
- The Chrono will be automatic and based on the 5960. Which means that it will be modular. What I don't know yet if it is a tricompax, bicompax or like the 5960 has the counters of the chrono in the same axis.
More next week...
TIFFANY "Mark T-57 Tri-Retrograde Chrono"
Here it goes, another alternative chorno. Actually, I like this one (will have to see it in the flesh though). I must admit I am impressed at the design and at the price (the steel model for 7,500 $). Tiffany claims that "they conceived and designed the watch themselves"... yeah, right.
Not too shabby Tiffany, not shabby at all...
Tiffany & Co...
Not too shabby Tiffany, not shabby at all...
Tiffany & Co...
WOW!
A few post down I complained that the new Master Tourbillon was not bold enough. Today I have discovered this amazing piece! Why didn't Jaeger give their latest Tourbillon that same look? You can be certain that if they did there would be lines waiting in front of dealers similar to that of teenagers at their favorite bands concerts. (just kidding...)
The Master Repeater in Platinum was already a great piece of work. The Master Repeater in Titanium is the icing on the cake. A brilliant, more modern execution on the previous version. This proves that the Master series can look up to date.
By the way, in a perfect world ALL repeaters, alarms and sonneries should be in titanium cases. The less dense the metal the more sound performance you will get. However, it is difficult to explain to somebody that he/she will have to dish-out about 200k for something that is not gold or platinum. I will post a sound file to demonstrate the difference between the rose gold Compressor Memovox and an AMVOX1. The difference is quite noticeable, to say the least.
PRICE E.U: 119,000 € aprox.
Jaeger leCoultre...
The Master Repeater in Platinum was already a great piece of work. The Master Repeater in Titanium is the icing on the cake. A brilliant, more modern execution on the previous version. This proves that the Master series can look up to date.
By the way, in a perfect world ALL repeaters, alarms and sonneries should be in titanium cases. The less dense the metal the more sound performance you will get. However, it is difficult to explain to somebody that he/she will have to dish-out about 200k for something that is not gold or platinum. I will post a sound file to demonstrate the difference between the rose gold Compressor Memovox and an AMVOX1. The difference is quite noticeable, to say the least.
PRICE E.U: 119,000 € aprox.
Jaeger leCoultre...
Genta goes tantalum as well...
I admit I have a soft spot for Genta Retrogrades and tantalum. These are both. The price would be my only problem... ouch! (Incidentally, if you guys at Genta ever read this, could you PLEASE do something about your crowns? They just don't work too well on the more sporty models. They are OK on smaller women's Mickey Mouse model but these larger more masculine Arenas just don't look the part. Thanks.)
Tantalum is becoming a real option and alternative for those who want the "heft" of gold yet don't like its yellow color. AP was first with the Royal Oak to use this precious metal. Lately Panerai and Hublot have also added this metal to some of their limited series models. The Panerai Tantalum had a full case and the Big-Bang only the bezel. Tantalum has several interesting properties. It is hypoallergenic, almost as heavy as gold (yet much harder) and is as resistant as glass against corrosion and acids. Tantalum is a very dark metal that gets purplish color over time and feels warm to the touch, contrary to steel that feels cold.
Let's hope that the backs are not sapphire. The movement is certainly no beauty, effective but no beauty. I would rather have a solid case back, more depth rating and a nice engraving rather that seeing the back of an ETA or Valjoux 7750.
Gerand Genta...
Tantalum is becoming a real option and alternative for those who want the "heft" of gold yet don't like its yellow color. AP was first with the Royal Oak to use this precious metal. Lately Panerai and Hublot have also added this metal to some of their limited series models. The Panerai Tantalum had a full case and the Big-Bang only the bezel. Tantalum has several interesting properties. It is hypoallergenic, almost as heavy as gold (yet much harder) and is as resistant as glass against corrosion and acids. Tantalum is a very dark metal that gets purplish color over time and feels warm to the touch, contrary to steel that feels cold.
Let's hope that the backs are not sapphire. The movement is certainly no beauty, effective but no beauty. I would rather have a solid case back, more depth rating and a nice engraving rather that seeing the back of an ETA or Valjoux 7750.
Gerand Genta...
PATEK, WHERE IS THAT CHRONO!?!
After much speculation (and at this point probably wishful thinking) that it would be replaced by an in-house Patek movement, the 5070 with the "Nouvelle Lemania" is still around. Honestly guys, isn't it time to do something about this? The 5959p was obviously not the replacement.
Come on Mr. Stern, grant us a NEW manual bicompax chrono born and raised in Patek. Especially knowing that Lemania has ceased supply of their movement to companies outside of the Swatch Group. Fellas, Basel 2007 would be a great opportunity to at least show that you are doing something about it? What about the new 30th anniversary Nautilus that is around the corner? I simply can't believe that it will have a Lemania inside. It just makes no bloody sense! Especially since the 5070 will only be produced until 2008 and Lemania has ceased to supply this movement. The question is; Will the new Nautty have the long awaited Patek chrono?
Personally I believe that there is NO WAY that the new Nautty will have the same movement as the 5070.
Come on Mr. Stern, grant us a NEW manual bicompax chrono born and raised in Patek. Especially knowing that Lemania has ceased supply of their movement to companies outside of the Swatch Group. Fellas, Basel 2007 would be a great opportunity to at least show that you are doing something about it? What about the new 30th anniversary Nautilus that is around the corner? I simply can't believe that it will have a Lemania inside. It just makes no bloody sense! Especially since the 5070 will only be produced until 2008 and Lemania has ceased to supply this movement. The question is; Will the new Nautty have the long awaited Patek chrono?
Personally I believe that there is NO WAY that the new Nautty will have the same movement as the 5070.
REVERSO "Sun Moon"
It is very unfortunate but the Reverso is one of my weaknesses that I will never be able to indulge. Because of a strangely placed bone in my wrist it just sits horribly. Too bad, I am a big Fan of Jaeger's Reverso. Fortunately there is the new "Squadra" and many such as I will be able to have a reversible or two-sided watch!
Anyway, back to this baby. For those with the right kind of wrist (and wallet) you should consider this beauty if you are shopping for a reverso. I admit, I have a soft spot for 8-day power reserves. To me at least they are the most convenient movements. Wind them once a week, no need for winders, awesome. This reverso is a beauty, on both sides.
Enjoy.
PRICE E.U: 13,500 € aprox.
PRICE U.S: 17,000 $ aprox.
Jaeger leCoultre...
Anyway, back to this baby. For those with the right kind of wrist (and wallet) you should consider this beauty if you are shopping for a reverso. I admit, I have a soft spot for 8-day power reserves. To me at least they are the most convenient movements. Wind them once a week, no need for winders, awesome. This reverso is a beauty, on both sides.
Enjoy.
PRICE E.U: 13,500 € aprox.
PRICE U.S: 17,000 $ aprox.
Jaeger leCoultre...
Not for me...
I have noticed lately that many (dealers, publications and others...) are pushing the Millenary very hard. I wonder if this strategy will eventually payoff and not discredit those that are pushing it. Personally I think that the Millenary is one of AP's mistakes. It's just horrible.
I have no other way to describe it, it just does not work for me. There is nothing written about taste but this? Because I try to keep an open mind I have embarked on a quest to find somebody that could explain to me (in case I missed it) why this is a nice looking watch. Needless to say, I am still searching. Maybe my problem is that I do like symmetry and the dial takes me to the side. I might reconsider and who knows, it might grow on me. Maybe it's just that the movement is nothing special and that definitely does not help.
If you like the Millenary please respond and explain this to me. (Subsequently write a 500 word essay titled "My irresistible urge to NOT wear my glasses... ever".)
Audemars Piguet...
I have no other way to describe it, it just does not work for me. There is nothing written about taste but this? Because I try to keep an open mind I have embarked on a quest to find somebody that could explain to me (in case I missed it) why this is a nice looking watch. Needless to say, I am still searching. Maybe my problem is that I do like symmetry and the dial takes me to the side. I might reconsider and who knows, it might grow on me. Maybe it's just that the movement is nothing special and that definitely does not help.
If you like the Millenary please respond and explain this to me. (Subsequently write a 500 word essay titled "My irresistible urge to NOT wear my glasses... ever".)
Audemars Piguet...
UPDATE: Nautilus 30th Anniversary
A little birdie has told me that the Nautilus chrono will have the "Nouvele Lemania" that is already in use in their 5070.
This is unconfirmed for now but I would not be surprised. If this turns out to be true, and they don't add something radically new to it (a power reserve would be a great addition), then I must sat that Patek are as LAME as I feared they would be. I hope that the other Nauties are more "special" than that.
Patek Philippe...
This is unconfirmed for now but I would not be surprised. If this turns out to be true, and they don't add something radically new to it (a power reserve would be a great addition), then I must sat that Patek are as LAME as I feared they would be. I hope that the other Nauties are more "special" than that.
Patek Philippe...
LEICA "M8"
My M6 has been with me for 18 years now. I had many more sophisticated auto-focus cameras but none ever came close to my M6. There is something mystical about this Leica. Its feel, handling and need for the Photographer to control most aspects of the shot make it unrivaled by any other camera. This camera was so good that it took Leica 18 years to make the M7.
These last few years I have left analogue photography a bit aside. Digital photography apart from being cheaper and quicker has been making huge leaps in quality over these years. I also admit that since I don't have a black-room anymore commercial prints are no way near as rewarding. I have not used my M6 for about 3 years now and the other "girls" just don't feel the same.
Leica has not transitioned too well to the Digital era and their financial situation is not too buoyant because of this. It has taken them 3 years to adapt their flagship "M" camera to the new media. In about 3 weeks the very much anticipated M8 will hit the stores at last! After miles of rumors and speculation the first digital M will see the light.
The overall feel I have at this new M is very positive. However, looking at the M8 there are several things that could have been improved. Not being a full-frame sensor is one flaw and that it has a metal electrical shutter is the other (plus, I miss the wind lever). Even if the shutter speed is increased from 1000 to 8000, the shutter sound is not the same. Believe or not, the quietness of the "M" series shutter is one of the main attractive for Leica owners. Here is an awesome audio file; first you will hear the shutter of the cloth curtain and second the new metal curtain. I guess that a cloth shutter would also be a more likely to leave dust on the digital sensor. Other than that, Leica have managed to keep the M8 true to the M philosophy. In any case, with the constant evolution technology don't discard an M9 two years from now.
The M8 is on my x-Mass wish list... can't wait to start shooting again.
Review...
Leica...
These last few years I have left analogue photography a bit aside. Digital photography apart from being cheaper and quicker has been making huge leaps in quality over these years. I also admit that since I don't have a black-room anymore commercial prints are no way near as rewarding. I have not used my M6 for about 3 years now and the other "girls" just don't feel the same.
Leica has not transitioned too well to the Digital era and their financial situation is not too buoyant because of this. It has taken them 3 years to adapt their flagship "M" camera to the new media. In about 3 weeks the very much anticipated M8 will hit the stores at last! After miles of rumors and speculation the first digital M will see the light.
The overall feel I have at this new M is very positive. However, looking at the M8 there are several things that could have been improved. Not being a full-frame sensor is one flaw and that it has a metal electrical shutter is the other (plus, I miss the wind lever). Even if the shutter speed is increased from 1000 to 8000, the shutter sound is not the same. Believe or not, the quietness of the "M" series shutter is one of the main attractive for Leica owners. Here is an awesome audio file; first you will hear the shutter of the cloth curtain and second the new metal curtain. I guess that a cloth shutter would also be a more likely to leave dust on the digital sensor. Other than that, Leica have managed to keep the M8 true to the M philosophy. In any case, with the constant evolution technology don't discard an M9 two years from now.
The M8 is on my x-Mass wish list... can't wait to start shooting again.
Review...
Leica...
Not bold enough...
It's almost as if Jaeger has officially opened "hostilities" with their new Tourbillon. There is nothing special about it except the price and that it's a Jaeger. Usually, in-house tourbillons from high-end manufacturers cost around 150k... this one is around the 35k mark. Quiet a first, if you ask me, and a very polemical move since the Swiss watch industry is very protective about their top of the line movements (yes, I know there are three kinds/levels of Tourbillons...). Incidentally this protectiveness will inevitably be their downfall since those inflated prices are causing "outsiders" to make movements such as these at a fraction of the cost, but that is another story... With developments such as this it becomes more and more difficult to justify the prices of most other Tourbillons out there. Why would you pay that much money for a piece'o crap Channel Tourbillon?.. unless you are a complete idiot of course. Don't be surprised to see more of these Tourbillons at this price range next year at the Geneva/Basel fairs next year. Jaeger could very well be responsible for bringing this wonderful movement a little closer to many that could not even think of owning a tourbillon, ever. For that, hats off to you Jaeger.
Even though I am glad that Jaeger had the guts to come out with this I must admit that I feel as if they did not go all the way. There are many boring looking Tourbillons in the market out there, this one looks like nothing new. A Compressor Tourbillon or even an AMVOX3 would have been a much bolder move. Maybe next year...
Jaeger leCoultre...
Even though I am glad that Jaeger had the guts to come out with this I must admit that I feel as if they did not go all the way. There are many boring looking Tourbillons in the market out there, this one looks like nothing new. A Compressor Tourbillon or even an AMVOX3 would have been a much bolder move. Maybe next year...
Jaeger leCoultre...
Perpetual OffShore
The only watch not to have any brand name or company logo on the face or bezel. Very few of these OffShore Perpetuals (about 15 units) where made and it's likely that AP have not noticed that "flaw" on the face. Until now the Perpetual OffShore has been flying under the radar. It's very unlikely that they would make such a watch and not put their brand on the face on purpose. If you where AP would you make a double complication and not put your logo there? Don't think so?.. me neither.
This OffShore was well before its time. A steel Perpetual weighing half a pound at that price, unthinkable! Back then when watches where still small (hell, Rolexes where BIG watches!) such a behemoth was simply insane. It took AP eight years, a radical increase in the size of watches worn by the general public and many demands from collector and fans to put the Perpetual OffShore back in the production line. The new Perpetual OffShore in Titanium, not everybody's favorite metal unfortunately, this time HAS their logo and name on the face.
Psssst... AP, I you are reading this (unlikely, I know...), titanium watches and white faces just don't work too well.
Audemars Piguet...
This OffShore was well before its time. A steel Perpetual weighing half a pound at that price, unthinkable! Back then when watches where still small (hell, Rolexes where BIG watches!) such a behemoth was simply insane. It took AP eight years, a radical increase in the size of watches worn by the general public and many demands from collector and fans to put the Perpetual OffShore back in the production line. The new Perpetual OffShore in Titanium, not everybody's favorite metal unfortunately, this time HAS their logo and name on the face.
Psssst... AP, I you are reading this (unlikely, I know...), titanium watches and white faces just don't work too well.
Audemars Piguet...
SINN "Flieger 356"
Last week I an received an eMail that asked me to recommend a chrono for around 1,000 $. Well, here is my recommendation.
It's difficult for anybody to offer more for your money than SINN. This Flieger 356 is a classic and at that price there is really nothing to complain about. I would suggest though that its case size could be increase a couple of millimeters, by todays standards it is a bit too small. Otherwise it is a great watch, nothing to object.
SINN...
It's difficult for anybody to offer more for your money than SINN. This Flieger 356 is a classic and at that price there is really nothing to complain about. I would suggest though that its case size could be increase a couple of millimeters, by todays standards it is a bit too small. Otherwise it is a great watch, nothing to object.
SINN...
More horological pornography...
The "Tourbillon Tubulaire Architechtural" by Richard Mille.
No need to comment.
PRICE E.U: 388,000 €
Limited to 30 units.
Richard Mille...
No need to comment.
PRICE E.U: 388,000 €
Limited to 30 units.
Richard Mille...
URWERK "103.07 Targa"
A slight improvement to the already stunning 103.03 Targa the 103.07 takes the relay. It inherits the stripes of the 103.05 Side View in Platinum. The new variant is only a slight improvement, yet an improvement none the less.
The 103 keeps getting better.
PRICE E.U: 49,000 € aprox.
PRICE U.S: 56,000 $ aprox.
URWERK...
The 103 keeps getting better.
PRICE E.U: 49,000 € aprox.
PRICE U.S: 56,000 $ aprox.
URWERK...
Sweet Transition
It seems that the new AP escapement will not be a futile exercise after all. Unlike many other renowned manufacturers AP seems to be going ahead to integrate this new escapement in their entire movement lineup. The plans today is that at least 75% of all the movement that leave their factory have the new escapement by 2010. The transition will be progressive and is being executed as I write this. It is very likely that regular line models with the new escapement will see the light at the Geneva Show next year.
I would love to see the calibre 2121 with that new upgrade. A reissue of the legendary Jumbo would be a great and more affordable way to introduce this new escapement into society.
Audemars Piguet...
I would love to see the calibre 2121 with that new upgrade. A reissue of the legendary Jumbo would be a great and more affordable way to introduce this new escapement into society.
Audemars Piguet...
UPDATE: Nautilus 30th Anniversary
Confirmed. There will be a larger normal Nautilus with a chrono movement inside. The case was "spotted" and described as; "... larger and with two holes for the pushbuttons of the chrono movement."
Whether it is the movement of the 5960 or a completelly new chrono remains to be seen. What it won't be is the movement of the 5070 for sure.
God, I hope it's not a LAME tricompax automatic with a date, probably sourced from somebody else...
Patek Philippe...
Whether it is the movement of the 5960 or a completelly new chrono remains to be seen. What it won't be is the movement of the 5070 for sure.
God, I hope it's not a LAME tricompax automatic with a date, probably sourced from somebody else...
Patek Philippe...
RADIOMIR "Foudroyante"
I must admit that I am very surprised at the latest developments at Panerai. Especially the Radiomir line is growing at an astounding rate. With the introduction of the 8-day power reserve (with a Jaeger movement), the 8-day GMT (in-house) and recently this new 1/8 seconds chrono rattrapante. I don't know if I have gotten used to incredibly inflated prices but considering what is being offered here this Radiomir is almost a bargain. An 1/8 of a second foudroyante chrono rattrapante for that much money? You certainly don't see this everyday. The design is aggressive yet elegant enough to be mistaken for a classic. The rattrapante button at three o'clock, inside the crown, gives it certain touch that makes the whole thing an awesome watch. My only "but", it's an automatic. I would have loved to see this in a manual movement, I shiver at the thought.
The Radiomir is really becoming a force to be reckoned with. It really looks like Panerai are putting all the nice stuff inside the Radiomir first. Personally I am glad, the Radiomir certainly deserves it.
PRICE: 11,400 €
Panerai...
The Radiomir is really becoming a force to be reckoned with. It really looks like Panerai are putting all the nice stuff inside the Radiomir first. Personally I am glad, the Radiomir certainly deserves it.
PRICE: 11,400 €
Panerai...
No 50th Anniversary Memovox?
While the Reverso had its 75th, the Memovox had nothing. There was a project in the works that will finally not see the light, at least not as a 50th Anniversary that is. I guess the Memovox is not such a big money maker for it to deserve a birthday. A true replica of the original Polaris would have been a hit. Many have been waiting for Jaeger to make such a move, yet...
Too bad, they could have made an effort though.
Jaeger leCoultre...
Too bad, they could have made an effort though.
Jaeger leCoultre...
Horological Pornography
Just can't stop staring at it.
This is the rear end of the Lange Dato-Perpetual, few "behinds" look better.
hi-res picture...
This is the rear end of the Lange Dato-Perpetual, few "behinds" look better.
hi-res picture...
SANTOS 100 "Misterioso"
This is really no place for a design watch. Yet since this Santos is mechanical and it has an interesting way to move the hand I will let it slide.
The movement of this Santos is essentially hidden behind the opaque part of the face while the hour and minute hand are attached to transparent disc. The movement is connected to those transparent disk out of your sight to give the impression that the hands are suspended in the air. This effect is quite dramatic. Even though I am not a Cartier fan I must admit I like the fact that it is mechanical and not quartz.
Almost forgot, incidentally it's limited to 120 pieces which for Cartier is very limited.
Cartier...
The movement of this Santos is essentially hidden behind the opaque part of the face while the hour and minute hand are attached to transparent disc. The movement is connected to those transparent disk out of your sight to give the impression that the hands are suspended in the air. This effect is quite dramatic. Even though I am not a Cartier fan I must admit I like the fact that it is mechanical and not quartz.
Almost forgot, incidentally it's limited to 120 pieces which for Cartier is very limited.
Cartier...
DUNHILL "Revolette"
Remember those multicolored BIC pen you and I had in back in school? Well it's back. In a nicer, more expensive version that is.
What does this pen have to do with watches? Nothing. I just have a soft spot for Dunhill.
Dunhill...
What does this pen have to do with watches? Nothing. I just have a soft spot for Dunhill.
Dunhill...
Great Expectations
In little over a month the new Nautilus will be revealed. On October 11th the 30th anniversary Nautilus will be officially presented. This long awaited moment is being eagerly followed by dealers, collectors and opportunists. All are desperate for information on the new Nautilus for different reasons. Dealers because they desperately need interesting products that are in demand. Collectors will feel the urge to have, own or posses whatever Patek makes (regardless if it is an old lady's hat with a coo-coo clock). Opportunists/Speculators will want to make a quick buck on those that are impatient or just too slow to have ordered one.
It has taken Patek 30 years to rediscover the Nautilus. For some obscure reason the Nautilus has always been neglected, you could even say disrespected by Patek. Why else is the Nautilus presented so late into its 30th anniversary and not in the Basel Fair? Since the original Jumbo 3700 to the Moon-Phase 3712 Patek has made nothing but less than smart moves, and October 11th could be no different. You must go and read Velociphile's blog, he nails it. One could almost think that they where doing this on purpose, just not wanting the Nautilus to go further, being uncomfortable about its success. They seem to transmit the impression that; "... we make classic watches and not sporty modern stuff...". Looking back I simply have no other way to explain it. In spite of some of their unfortunate decisions to change, redesign or discontinue several models, the Nautilus grew. Now, after 30 years they just can't ignore it anymore.
Personally I must admit that the Nautilus has grown on me. Unlike the RoyalOak that most people love, few people hate and almost nobody is indifferent to... the Nautilus does not arise much passion at first. Over time you come to cherish its lines, that are much more 70'ish than the Oak. Maybe this is part of its charm, or maybe it's because it's a sporty Patek.
So what will October 11th bring? Apart from speculation I have no clue (but I will post any material I have since I do not have an agreement with Patek of any kind). However, I have a not so good feeling... but I could be wrong. For now rumor has it that there will be three models; a chrono, an annual calendar and a new 3712... others claim that there will be a chrono with the movement of the 5960 and a simple model (...Jumbo?). The strategy, according to Patek's management, is to go head-to-head against the reign of AP's RoyalOak. Will they succeed in denting their sales? Let's see what happens.
Here is my list of hopes and wishes regarding the "new" 30 anniversary Nauty:
I HOPE;
... they don't use the occasion to raise the average price range of the large men's models by 10 to 20 thousand.
... they don't just make Gold and Platinum models. These materials are a contradiction in a sports watch.
... they don't start using "delicate" movements that are complicated but not really suited for a more "active" lifestyle.
... they don't go the OffShore way and give the Nautilus just a shot of steroids.
I WISH ;
... they make the original Jumbo again. An exact unaltered replica of the 1976 Jumbo, in steel of course.
... they make a "World Timer" version in the Nautilus line.
... they make'em waterproof to 100 meters. Sport watches should have that depth rating at least. This would mean that you could go snorkeling with your Nautilus worry free.
... they use metals more adequate to what a sport watch should be. Ceramics, Alacrite, Titanium, Zalium, Liquid Hydrogen hardened steel, etc... These are only a few examples, expensive and cheap, of metals more adequate for a watch that is going to more punishment than your classic gold leather model.
... even if there is a more modern slightly redesigned/modern Nautilus, they maintain the classic Nautilus shape as an option, just in case we don't like the new stuff.
Now, the difference between "I HOPE" and "I WISH" is simple. I hope, is what I have a feeling they WILL do... and I will not like it. I wish, is what I believe they WON'T do... yet would be nice if they did.
In any case you can be certain that whatever Patek do, they will sell no matter what. Until October 11th I will be on the hunt for pictures and info, if I have any I will post them.
Patek Philippe...
It has taken Patek 30 years to rediscover the Nautilus. For some obscure reason the Nautilus has always been neglected, you could even say disrespected by Patek. Why else is the Nautilus presented so late into its 30th anniversary and not in the Basel Fair? Since the original Jumbo 3700 to the Moon-Phase 3712 Patek has made nothing but less than smart moves, and October 11th could be no different. You must go and read Velociphile's blog, he nails it. One could almost think that they where doing this on purpose, just not wanting the Nautilus to go further, being uncomfortable about its success. They seem to transmit the impression that; "... we make classic watches and not sporty modern stuff...". Looking back I simply have no other way to explain it. In spite of some of their unfortunate decisions to change, redesign or discontinue several models, the Nautilus grew. Now, after 30 years they just can't ignore it anymore.
Personally I must admit that the Nautilus has grown on me. Unlike the RoyalOak that most people love, few people hate and almost nobody is indifferent to... the Nautilus does not arise much passion at first. Over time you come to cherish its lines, that are much more 70'ish than the Oak. Maybe this is part of its charm, or maybe it's because it's a sporty Patek.
So what will October 11th bring? Apart from speculation I have no clue (but I will post any material I have since I do not have an agreement with Patek of any kind). However, I have a not so good feeling... but I could be wrong. For now rumor has it that there will be three models; a chrono, an annual calendar and a new 3712... others claim that there will be a chrono with the movement of the 5960 and a simple model (...Jumbo?). The strategy, according to Patek's management, is to go head-to-head against the reign of AP's RoyalOak. Will they succeed in denting their sales? Let's see what happens.
Here is my list of hopes and wishes regarding the "new" 30 anniversary Nauty:
I HOPE;
... they don't use the occasion to raise the average price range of the large men's models by 10 to 20 thousand.
... they don't just make Gold and Platinum models. These materials are a contradiction in a sports watch.
... they don't start using "delicate" movements that are complicated but not really suited for a more "active" lifestyle.
... they don't go the OffShore way and give the Nautilus just a shot of steroids.
I WISH ;
... they make the original Jumbo again. An exact unaltered replica of the 1976 Jumbo, in steel of course.
... they make a "World Timer" version in the Nautilus line.
... they make'em waterproof to 100 meters. Sport watches should have that depth rating at least. This would mean that you could go snorkeling with your Nautilus worry free.
... they use metals more adequate to what a sport watch should be. Ceramics, Alacrite, Titanium, Zalium, Liquid Hydrogen hardened steel, etc... These are only a few examples, expensive and cheap, of metals more adequate for a watch that is going to more punishment than your classic gold leather model.
... even if there is a more modern slightly redesigned/modern Nautilus, they maintain the classic Nautilus shape as an option, just in case we don't like the new stuff.
Now, the difference between "I HOPE" and "I WISH" is simple. I hope, is what I have a feeling they WILL do... and I will not like it. I wish, is what I believe they WON'T do... yet would be nice if they did.
In any case you can be certain that whatever Patek do, they will sell no matter what. Until October 11th I will be on the hunt for pictures and info, if I have any I will post them.
Patek Philippe...
Limited OVERKILL?
I don't know if this is an atempt of AP to lure customers away from regular Jeweler and dealers into the AP Boutiques, but I am not sure if so many LEs are becoming a problem for the brand in general. Here is a sneak peek at the upcoming "Diver" from AP, courtesy of Thomas Mao and ThePuristS.
It was only last week when an official authorized dealer complained that everybody that came through the door for an AP asked about the T3, the Montoya, the Barrichello, the City of Sales, the Polaris, etc... Regular production models are becoming increasingly harder to sell. To be honest, why would you buy a regular watch if there are several "more exclusive" models that will also loose less market value? You are going to go either for the limited edition of the moment or wait for one, at this rate it's likely that one will be made close to what your heart desires. Not too long ago the RoyalOak was a very exclusive watch, today I am not certain this is true anymore.
Unless AP revise their position regarding Limited Editions I would not be surprised they could run into trouble. A solution could be to either reduce the quantities of limited editions (100 units instead of 1,000) or completely stop them, at least for a while. Again, 1,000 units in AP is not limited! With all this LE overkill regular production models are at risk to become banal? Nobody wants to own a banal watch for several thousands of dollars/euros.
p.s. Guys get your act straight, the new Nautilus is close and Patek is out for blood! ... so I am told...
Audemars Piguet...
It was only last week when an official authorized dealer complained that everybody that came through the door for an AP asked about the T3, the Montoya, the Barrichello, the City of Sales, the Polaris, etc... Regular production models are becoming increasingly harder to sell. To be honest, why would you buy a regular watch if there are several "more exclusive" models that will also loose less market value? You are going to go either for the limited edition of the moment or wait for one, at this rate it's likely that one will be made close to what your heart desires. Not too long ago the RoyalOak was a very exclusive watch, today I am not certain this is true anymore.
Unless AP revise their position regarding Limited Editions I would not be surprised they could run into trouble. A solution could be to either reduce the quantities of limited editions (100 units instead of 1,000) or completely stop them, at least for a while. Again, 1,000 units in AP is not limited! With all this LE overkill regular production models are at risk to become banal? Nobody wants to own a banal watch for several thousands of dollars/euros.
p.s. Guys get your act straight, the new Nautilus is close and Patek is out for blood! ... so I am told...
Audemars Piguet...
ABOUT TO LAND; Jaeger leCoultre "AMVOX2"
After a long delay (3 months) the AMVOX2 is finally about to reach the stores. First deliveries are expected in October. I am not certain (especially after predicting that the AMVOX1 R-Alarm would be a hit) but I don't think this one will be on displays for long. Since it is such a "different" watch for a Jaeger I suspect it will be a collector's favorite. The first PVD'ed Jaeger.
It is fitted with a altered calibre (751) that will not be produced in a regular production model. If this is so, this could very well become the "Paul Newman" of all Jaegers. However, the limited production of this movement is only a promise for now. Time will tell if Jaeger don't include this watch in their regular product line.
PRICE E.U: 12,500€ aprox.
PRICE U.S: 15,000$ aprox.
Jaeger leCoultre...
review...
It is fitted with a altered calibre (751) that will not be produced in a regular production model. If this is so, this could very well become the "Paul Newman" of all Jaegers. However, the limited production of this movement is only a promise for now. Time will tell if Jaeger don't include this watch in their regular product line.
PRICE E.U: 12,500€ aprox.
PRICE U.S: 15,000$ aprox.
Jaeger leCoultre...
review...
NOKIA 8800 "Sirocco"
Nokia is about to unleash its 8800. First the VERTU "Constellation", then the 8800 Titanium Special Edition and now the Sirocco.
This improved version of the 8800 has a 2 megapixel camera, a slightly better battery life and something described as a "premium user interface". Premium user interface... hummm, does that mean that all other Nokia phones are less than premium? Interesting, I wonder if the Vertu "Constellation" is worth it at all. It was meant to be a better and improved version of the 8800 a way to fill a gap between the 8800 and the Vertu "Ascent", but since Nokia is already doing that... why bother? For the Concierge service, you say! Well, you don't need to have a Vertu to have Concierge service since it can be contracted by anybody with any kind of phone. Yes the Concierge service is really subcontracted by Nokia, it costs about a thousand bucks a year for something that unless you live in the UK or US is a total waste of your well earned money. The only advantage now over the 8800 is that the Vertu is quadband, but I suspect that there is a 8800i in the works that will have that feature included.
Other than that it's the same'ol 8800.
p.s. I swear I am not going to mention phones again... for the rest of this month.
press release...
This improved version of the 8800 has a 2 megapixel camera, a slightly better battery life and something described as a "premium user interface". Premium user interface... hummm, does that mean that all other Nokia phones are less than premium? Interesting, I wonder if the Vertu "Constellation" is worth it at all. It was meant to be a better and improved version of the 8800 a way to fill a gap between the 8800 and the Vertu "Ascent", but since Nokia is already doing that... why bother? For the Concierge service, you say! Well, you don't need to have a Vertu to have Concierge service since it can be contracted by anybody with any kind of phone. Yes the Concierge service is really subcontracted by Nokia, it costs about a thousand bucks a year for something that unless you live in the UK or US is a total waste of your well earned money. The only advantage now over the 8800 is that the Vertu is quadband, but I suspect that there is a 8800i in the works that will have that feature included.
Other than that it's the same'ol 8800.
p.s. I swear I am not going to mention phones again... for the rest of this month.
press release...
This is what I call limited!
This is one of those watches that unless you know beforehand it will be near impossible to get your hands on it. Limited to 25 pieces this RoyalOak "Montreux Grand Prix 2006" I am afraid will be owned by collectors that wish to complete their collection. Although some will popup here and there I simply have clue yet of its price, I can only guess it will be more expensive than a regular chrono. Since it is limited to 25 pieces I suppose that it will go above the current market price of a "City of Sales". My best guess is that, if you are interested, you ask at your local AP boutique.
Audemars Piguet...
Audemars Piguet...
Special What?
Lately brands are making many limited editions that I would not call limited at all. Most of them end up doing quiet well but to me a 1.000 or so RoyalOaks or 300 Richard Milles is NOT what I would call limited. If these numbers where by Rolex or Omega I would call them Limited since their production numbers are considerably higher. At these numbers I would rather call them "popular models with a finite production run". Hummm... I guess that this definition would not be very commercial, so scratch that idea. I just can't stand things that are called "Special Edition". What does that mean?... we are going to produce an unknown amount of this model, that is incidentally a bit nicer than the regular one, for a little more money and until sales don't do so well anymore...? How stupid is that? I really hope never to see that on a watch. The Nokia 8800 Titanium Special Edition would be an example...
Note: The 8800 has improved a great deal since its first appearance a year ago. If you have one make sure you have the latest firmware version 4.10 on it. the new version makes the 8800 actually work! Except for the limited battery life it is a great phone (finally after proper software). You can check your software version by pressing *#0000# and the display should show your latest software version.
Nokia...
Note: The 8800 has improved a great deal since its first appearance a year ago. If you have one make sure you have the latest firmware version 4.10 on it. the new version makes the 8800 actually work! Except for the limited battery life it is a great phone (finally after proper software). You can check your software version by pressing *#0000# and the display should show your latest software version.
Nokia...
Sick of your TriCompax?
I can't help but notice how more and more alternatives to the classic tricompax chronos are just popping up. If like me you just don't get any kicks out of the classic chrono and still need to time your eggs or tea in the morning, there are number of options for you to be slightly different. Yes, several new choices that are a refreshing way of timing something. It's very typical of the watch industry so prices range from affordable to the absurd, as always I guess.
First the reappearance of the manual bicompax like Lange's Datograph and Double Split or WEMPE's Radiomir Anniversary, then the mono-pushers like the MIH, the spectacular Porsche Indicator with its digital but mechanical display, then the the integration of the minutes and hour hand in Patek's 5960, the appearance of several retrograde chronos like the Genta Cuatro Retro or Kunz Chrono Sport and last but not least the Jaeger AMVOX2 with its alternative start/stop and reset mechanism.
Personally I am glad that this is so since I just can't stand boooring chronos anymore. I would rather welcome a power reserve or GMT complication that I find much more useful. Other than timing the pizza delivery boy I just have no use for a chrono, except for aesthetic reasons that is. Some watches just look great with three buttons instead of one... others just don't. At this point I just welcome any variation of the classic chrono. What strikes me as odd is that most of these re-thought chronos are not that outrageously expensive inspire of the fact that many had to go to the drawing board quiet extensively. That in Switzerland is very, very expensive. Without going into details like modules, ETA-based or Valjoux-based a new movement (or module) takes about 2 years to become reality, plus a huge bag of money.
I guess that there will be more news regarding "alternative" chronographs in the following months. I am especially eager to see the long rumored and awaited RM011 by Richard Mille. Knowing the man I am almost certain that it will not be just another "run of the mill" chrono.
A. Lange & Söhne...
Patek Philippe...
MIH...
WEMPE...
Porsche...
Gerald Genta...
Pierre Kunz...
Jaeger leCoultre...
Richard Mille...
First the reappearance of the manual bicompax like Lange's Datograph and Double Split or WEMPE's Radiomir Anniversary, then the mono-pushers like the MIH, the spectacular Porsche Indicator with its digital but mechanical display, then the the integration of the minutes and hour hand in Patek's 5960, the appearance of several retrograde chronos like the Genta Cuatro Retro or Kunz Chrono Sport and last but not least the Jaeger AMVOX2 with its alternative start/stop and reset mechanism.
Personally I am glad that this is so since I just can't stand boooring chronos anymore. I would rather welcome a power reserve or GMT complication that I find much more useful. Other than timing the pizza delivery boy I just have no use for a chrono, except for aesthetic reasons that is. Some watches just look great with three buttons instead of one... others just don't. At this point I just welcome any variation of the classic chrono. What strikes me as odd is that most of these re-thought chronos are not that outrageously expensive inspire of the fact that many had to go to the drawing board quiet extensively. That in Switzerland is very, very expensive. Without going into details like modules, ETA-based or Valjoux-based a new movement (or module) takes about 2 years to become reality, plus a huge bag of money.
I guess that there will be more news regarding "alternative" chronographs in the following months. I am especially eager to see the long rumored and awaited RM011 by Richard Mille. Knowing the man I am almost certain that it will not be just another "run of the mill" chrono.
A. Lange & Söhne...
Patek Philippe...
MIH...
WEMPE...
Porsche...
Gerald Genta...
Pierre Kunz...
Jaeger leCoultre...
Richard Mille...
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