URWERK "UR-CC1"

The "King Cobra" is finally here!


OK... I promise this is the last of the "ULTRA EXPENSIVE" pieces I will be commenting about for some time. This URWERK surely deserves more that just a few lines. Yes, after many months of expectation the latest wonder by URWERK does meet the expectations. As I have posted in the past, URWERK has succeeded with the King Cobra where Patek has failed. How many can say this? Very few...

This alternative means to display time is based on two rotating cylinders was indeed attempted by Patek 50 years ago. Whetter they managed it to work is not really certain since Albert's and Cottier's prototype is locked-up in the Patek museum in Geneva. By the way, what an ugly watch... In any case Patek either thought it was not economically plausible, not too Patek'ish... or just like me, they though it was NOT precisely the most attractive piece they ever made. The principle is inspired from Cadillac Cars from the 60's that had lateral speedometer displays. As the cylinders turn the hours and minutes progress displaying the correct time. It is a bit awkward at fist, as with all other URWERKs I guess, yet once you get the idea the time is quite easily readable. First the turning disks, than the rolling dice and now revolving cylinders. What's next? Quite frankly I have no idea. Every time I think that there are no more ways to display time somebody comes along and proves me wrong.

I was one of the few blessed to actually physically see and touch the functional prototype several months ago. I was smitten. The King Cobra is a big watch, but it wears surprisingly well. In any case I doubt that many will wear these since most are going to be kept in their owner's large vaults because they are going to be such a special piece. That is a pity since all the stuff from URWERK, even the most complicated, is actually meant to be used and enjoyed on a regular basis. Bare in mind that up until few years ago ultra-complicated watches where not really capable of working over extended periods of time. A brief interlude; Did you know that until the mid of las century less than 10% of the about 500 Tourbillon watches made actually worked?... Anyway, back to our mater at hand. The King Cobra is a very usable and wearable item and I sure hope to see it worn at least once, even if the odds to find one of 50 amongst 5 billion people is rather slim. Although, I must admit I have come across rarer watches in the past.


The CC1 will be executed 25 times in white and 25 (for 2010) in black. Knowing URWERK you can be sure this amount will be definitive. If you are amongst the lucky ones to have a healthy enough wallet to go after one of these, don't debate for too long. Rest assured that the King Cobra will be one of those watches that will have a preferential spot in the watch Elysium.

URWERK...

A. Lange & Söhne "ZEITWERK"

I can't disguise that I am very happy to see such a development coming from the house of Lange. Finally something REALLY new from the guys over in Dresden. Not only a way to get your hands on a clientele unknown to them so far but also to re-interest those that already share their philosophy. The new "Zeitwerk" is not just a Lange, it's a great Lange. What is very appreciated is that the Zeitwerk will be joining the catalogue as a regular production item and not a limited model. I can't stress enough the fact that ultra conservative manufacturers need sometimes to go crazy and come up with ideas that are revolutionary to their heritage. I guess the best example would be AP and their Royal Oak. Going "sport-steel" has opened a whole new and before unknown market for them (and others). Developments such as this can result in an interesting and profitable direction. New developments ensure the longevity of the brand. It is those that stay anchored in rancid principles of design and clinging to the past that are likely NOT to survive in more difficult times. The past should be regarded with respect but never as guide to fix one's goals for the future. A vintage edition might work a couple of times yet ultimately you will need to look in the future.

Could this be my first Lange? Quite possibly (however, my accountant (wife) might not entirely agree with the idea). This despite being the white gold version the most attractive to me and I just can't stand rhodium plated white gold... Even though I respect and appreciate practically all of Lange's work I never came across the right Lange for me. The "Datograph" is too thick and the proportions of the case seem just not right to me... The DoubleSplit's face is too boring, especially after somebody at the manufacture decided to remove the red in the power-reserve... The "Lange 1" has the hour and minutes hands on the wrong side of the dial... The "1815" is too small (although the latest one comes closer to being a candidate). The Turbograph is well out of my reach and so is the wonderful Richard Lange "Pour le Merite"... Well, there was always something in the way of adding something as wonderfully executed as a Lange. Until now.

With this DigiGraph... pardon me, Zeitwerk the story changes. It is different in every aspect as a Lange. Considering the complication, the high price seems well in the reasonable range. The Zeitwerk is different while remaining elegant and sporty at the same time. The movement is, as with all Langes, simply sublime. The beauty of the Zeitwerk's movement is probably only second to that of the DoubleSplit. Many might think that the 36 hour power reserve is a bit short. Don't be mistaken, a standard 42 hours power reserve is not much more useful since you still have to wind it every day (because it does not reach the full 48 hours/2 days). Because of the torque requirements needed to move and jump every minute the power reserve had to be shortened to maintain a level of accuracy acceptable to Lange. In any case, the Zeitwerk is equipped with a power-reserve indicator. So that resolves that point. Personally I am a huge fan of long power reserves but NEVER at the expense of accuracy.

On the negative part I still think that the germans get their proportions between thickness and wideness wrong. It is not so bad on the Zeitwerk yet a millimeter wider would have made the case more harmonious. The strap is also a bit thin at the case. The dial could have a bit more color but I guess sobriety was a must in this case like it is in all other Lange Watches.

My only worry is really the jumping minute mechanism. It's just a question of math. Take 60 and multiply by 24, then by 365. You will roughly end up with slightly more than 500,000 jumps a year. Imagine this in ten years? We are talking about close to 5 million jumps if you decide to wear it all the time! I can assure you that if it where any other manufacturer than Lange proposing this I would discard this watch for this reason alone. Yet, it is a Lange, and as far as I know they test their products for quite a long time before officially presenting. It is known in the sector that Lange's former CEO used to wear the prototypes on his wrist for a whole year before releasing it as a product. Fact or fiction, who knows? What I know is that Lange does give a sense of "safety" like a Mercedes. Both are a safe bet in all aspects...

A. Lange & Soehne...

HYBRIS MECHANICA

Jaeger leCoultre is one of those "Houses" that never cease to amaze me. After the last years almost supernatural development of until now unseen horological exploits there is still room for more. Jaeger, as I have mentioned many times in the past, absolutely rules the market in the midrange complication. You will NOT get movements of this variety and complexity at any other manufacturer. The AMVOX2, Scuadra GMT or even the Duometre are simply unthinkable at these prices under more "prestigious" brand names. There is no question in my mind that Jaeger is by a landslide the most honest manufacture out there. It is undoubtedly one of the more prestigious watch manufacturers of our times. Wether one might like them or not, one thing is certain... they are a great piece of machinery. Yet, it does not share the "glamour" or "bling-bling" that houses like Patek or AP have, but adepts are growing at a steady rate. The advantage of not being a fashion item is that in the long run you only depend on yourself and the customers you have convinced. Contrary to fashion victims there are very loyal and are likely to stick with you for a long time.

After the Triptyque and the GyroTourbillon Jaeger sets the bar to an even higher level. The "Hybris Mechanica" is a jaw dropper. Whether it is the MOST complicated watch to date is generally a difficult statement to back. Here, however, it is not difficult at all. At least you could put it up there in the glorious "top ten" of all time. Don't be confused, that top ten is a very difficult place to be. Patek's calibre 89 and Richard's RM008 are two that I dare put in this category together with the Hybris Mechanica. The other seven spots I let you decide...

Essentially the Hybris Mechanica is a Grande Sonnerie including a Westminster Carillon with four hammers that includes a jumping hour regulator and perpetual calendar as its main functions. Upsss... forgot the flying Tourbillon. Just like in the Duometre the power reserves of the "sonnerie" and watch are separate. A new development is the activation of the repeater by pressing the crown instead of pulling a lateral trigger. The whole lot will be delivered in a special safety vault over 2,000 pounds heavy including a Gyro and a Triptyque. There will be only 30 sets of these available. Instead of getting into too much mechanical and technical details, many of which are not too clear yet, I am posting some pictures for your enjoyment. I will try to get a full technical explanation/resume in English for you. Once I have it, I will post it...


Now, back to business. The price will obviously be completely out of this world and considering a purchase is wishful thinking for all but a few. So why should this watch be of any consequence if there are going to be so few of them and so expensive? Easy. Because like with car prototypes there are things developed on products such as this that might one day find themselves into more affordable watches. Here are some things that jump to my mind when I see the Hybris;

- The crown to activate the Sonnerie. Could this be a way to dispose of the lateral trigger and improve on waterproof ratings on repeaters? Despite new material and miracle rubber gaskets these triggers are a nightmare to adequately waterproof.

- The style and philosophy of the Duometre is patent with the Hybris. This hopefully means that the Duometre "project" is alive and will keep evolving. A great development for watch lovers.

- Jumping hours, retrogrades and regulators could be back at Jaeger. For us watch lovers it would be great to see this in the Duometre philosophy.

- The fact that Jaeger had the BALLS to go ahead with this project despite the current economic situation. Many big projects such as this where put on standby by most other big companies. AP was the other exception. I do not want to be mean but, what novelties did Patek present this year in terns of horological development? A no-show like most others...

- The most surprising and what probably will be eclipsed by the Hybris is the new adjustable "Ardillon" buckle. Wonderful! At last the problem has been tackled and from the looks of it resolved!!! Out of all three variants; the deployant buckle, the butterfly buckle (just like the deployant but with two hinges so the buckle remains in the middle) and the classic ardillon... I always liked the ardillon because it was secure, thiner than a deployant and more comfortable. Except for sports watches the classic ardillon is still the best solution to fasten you strap. One of the problems with classic ardillons occurs in summer with swelling wrists. Most people need to their strap to another hole during summer because of the heat making you wrist swell. This meant that you have to remove the watch, at the risk of dropping it, and set it to a different hole. This also takes a tole on the leather strap causing it to wear much more quickly. With this new ardillon the problem has been solved. You get the flexibility to adjust size for heat without removing the watch and keep the comfort or a traditional ardillon.


Believe it or not, out of all the novelties included in this new marvel this is without a doubt the first I would love to see in regular production models. Hell, the second they have matching metals of this new ardillon for my cases I am getting one for all of my Jaegers!

Jaeger leCoultre...

Another Retirement?

The Gondolo annual calendar in white gold has mysteriously disappeared from Patek Catalogues... Even if the reference 5135G is still to be seen on their web site, it smells like yet another unannounced retirement. Patek have been known in the past to surprise us with sudden drops of models from their lineup. What reason could have been behind this? Several come to mind;

- The white gold version was just not popular. Personally it was my favorite but I guess most people want to "show" their investment in a watch usually like it to be yellow or rose gold. Platinum people are above good and evil...
- The white gold version was just too similar in looks to the Platinum. This might have turned some Platinum people away from the Annual Gondolo. If it's too similar, it's just not right. Three small diamonds and a light gray circle are just not enough to make it worth the platinum premium price. Watch brands usually reserve the best looking faces for their most expensive models. The gray face is the best looking (IMO) and should have initially been reserved for the Platinum case. Since the white gold Gondolo was presented first, when they realized it was too late.
- The finally have seen the light and stopped production on al white gold "RODIUM TREATED" models! Well, that sounds more like wishful thinking...

In any case, retirement or not, I like Patek's retirement policy. It's just clean and to the point. Now you see it, now you don't. This sometimes causes the market to go a bit mental and the pieces have an immediate increase in value (like with the Nautilus 3712A).

As with most early retirements with Patek, information is scarce. Dealers give you different stories and the official channels are just too important to even consider talking to you. If anybody can confirm this it would be great if you could comment here.

Patek Philippe...