Dear fellow Bloggers and Readers,
With the speculative bubble around the 3712 many expected that the 5712 would cause this bubble to burst. Well it did... not! It only deflated slightly. lately it seems that its price is rising again. Many hoped that the price of the 3712 would drop, to either get one for themselves or have greedy speculators and gray market merchants bite the dust. Sorry, not this time. I guest that the Moonphase Nautty will not be a bargain just yet. Yes, unbelievably the older 3712 trades at higher prices than the new 5712!
One of the biggest pending issues for RM customers was the longevity of the brand over an extended period of time. Many people where a bit "twitchy" to spend 30k on a relatively new brand. The concern was that if RM would eventually disappear there would be nobody to service your RM properly. Now, this concern is less than before. Rumor has it that AP has recently purchased a chunk of RM. Depending on the size of the purchase, this not only would ensure the longevity but give RM access to AP's distribution network overnight. Especially interesting are markets where RM was not present, and had no plans to be there anytime soon. What is uncertain is what will happen to the existing importers. I guest that for AP to get them out of the picture they would need a bigger chunk of RM, pry them out of their cold dead hands or come to a sizable monetary agreement with them. Unless AP would buy 51% of RM this would, of course, be impossible.
Back in 1972 many laughed in disbelieve as AP presented their idea of what a new sports watch should be. Gerald Genta's creation was to most critics weird, awkward, way too expensive, way too large, had too many edges, etc... Look at the Oak today. I must admit that while I fall in and out of love with many watches all the time, the Jumbo is something special.
p.s. Some time ago AP made this skeletonized Jumbo and it has not really done a lot of "noise" since then. Weird, it is a beautiful piece of equipment. I had the chance to hold the nº1 and believe me, it's a beauty. It is a bit thiner than the Jumbo since it holds the 2120 calibre. The 2120 is the variant of the 2121 calibre but without the date. This makes the case about one millimeter thiner.
It has never been so apparent that where are currently in a "golden age" of watch making. Never has there been so many complications at such prices and, what's more important, so many people willing to spend money to buy them. Pieces like the AMVOX2, Squadra, PK Chrono, Panerai Foudroayante, Genta Biretro... where unthinkable only ten years ago at these prices. Back then, only a few manufactures where capable of such developments. Ratrapantes, 8-day power reserves, retrogrades, vertical triggers, jumping hours and large dates are becoming quite common and more affordable than at any time in history. Even the Tourbillon's exclusivity has been challenged by Jaeger's "Master Tourbillon" (about time if you ask me). 
New companies like Richard Mille, URWERK, Hautlence are proposing new radical designs and thrive. That inspire of being priced at what was not long ago considered insane price points. Consider the "infamous" RM004v2, backordered to the end of time at a whopping 130,000 Dollars! Insane. This used to happen with the infamous Rolex "Daytona", yet at a price point one tenth that of the RM. But for a watch that costs 130k?!?
Another factor is the "spending threshold" on watches that has been continuously overrun in the last few years. Never have there been more people willing to spend obnoxious amounts of money for a watch. Almost any brand can make (at least commission) a Tourbillon and sell it! That, in some cases, is a mystery to me. Have we gone mad? Or is it that the choice has become so wast that it has become much more appealing to us all? The survey that Velociphile once took in his blog comes to one surprising conclusion; most of us blatantly lie to our spouses/relations/family about the watches that we own. 
Not only about the number of watches we own but what they really cost. I am certain that most of us can identify with this. When is the last time that you heard from your girlfriend/wife say; "... yes honey, you should really buy this beautifull watch." I would bet my underwear that the last time you told "her" that you where "considering" the purchase of a watch, at any price I might add, the response you got was closer to; "... What!?! Another one??? Are you going to grow extra arms to wear them all?..." And that would be the light version.
Lovely... really lovely. A while back I mentioned that regardless what Patek make, they will sell it. I said that even if they where to make "an old lady's hat with a coo-coo clock" people will flock by the thousands to buy it. Well, grandma's here...
Ahhh... almost forgot. It is waterproof to a "staggering" 30 meters. Wow, in the real world that is barely bathtub proof. Quite a performance for the year 1906. Wait! Forgot we are in 2006... sorry.
Few can give you more for your money than Dornblueth. Still a small watchmaker obsessed with quality and finishing, Dornblueth is getting to be very appreciated by collectors and watch enthusiast around the world. They take order directly and until now there are no shops anywhere. There is one exception though, UHREN in Madrid are the only store where you can go a buy a Dorning. Did I say buy? Sorry, I meant get in line. Backordered to about 6 months, this small manufacture is quite a bargain. Very appreciated amongst the connoisseur, Dornblueth is with F.P. Journe the only watchmaker to make all his movements in 18k rose gold. You can even order the seconds hack option or your initials engraved on the movement. Since they are all hand made special requests are not an obstacle, provided they are within reason of course...
My personal favorite is the 99.2 and judging from the waiting list I am not the only one! If you jump on this baby, ask for the "hack upgrade". As pictured on the right, the hack option makes the seconds hand jump to the closest quarter once you pull the crown to set the time. It's not that much and quite useful if you are a precision nut.
Recently Wempe has just introduced and opened their own "little" watch manufacture. Their first models are quite impressive, in spite of the fact that they have just started. Hell, there many old boys out there that to this day don't get such good results. Particularly interesting is their "Tonneau" shaped model. If you like the shape but could do without the risk of getting a Poljot movement even if the dial says "swiss made" the the new Wempe is the way to go. The finishing is impeccable and the movement is a beauty. What would be interesting is to see their next model with an 8-day power reserve and a slightly larger case.
I wonder if all the other stuff by Bell & Ross is so "aggressively" priced.
Since its initial introduction the Safari has caused quite some watch lovers to turn their heads. It is one of these watches that everybody likes for no real apparent reason apart from the a whole design. Whether it is the cream dial, dark blue numerals of the extraordinary crocodile strap it is difficult to single out one characteristic trait that makes it so attractive to most people. AP have scored a bulls-eye with this piece, and the market has spoken. Depending on the country, this OffShore has a waiting list of between 3 to 9 months. 
Although the price is a bit steep (35,000 €) the finishing is well within the expected. Its design elements are very interesting and will make this watch interesting to you for quite some time. Even thought the shape is not my favorite the HL looks much better ON the wrist that OFF the wrist. The TV shaped case, which I thought was a disadvantage, becomes more understandable once you examine the watch more closely. The movement is the one "forcing" the case shape of the watch, it is not an element of style.
More and more manufacturers are taking care of the backs as much as the front of their watches. like Lange's "Double Split" your reaction is; nice, yawn... Then, you turn it around and your heart goes racing. This Parmigiani's rear is just a hole new ball game.
Particularly interesting is the enlarged Titanium balance wheel. This has been developed and is said to achieve better precision (I will put a hold on that until it has been proven on the street and not in a lab). In any case, it looks cool and adds a touch of modern to what is a classic movement design/finish.
What is unfortunate is the case/face it was put in. It has the sex-appeal of a Camel.
If you don't, the letter addressed to the owner comes to say:
Many, including me, where very surprised at Eterna's beast. The Indicator by Porsche Design is surely a piece of machinery that turned more than a few heads. What is particularly interesting is the digital approach to display information with mechanical means. This could be the only watch that I forgive its excessive size (almost 50 mm!!!). Even though it is way too large for me (and most other humans) I respect it because the movement actually "fils" the case. It is not large because it is fashionable, it is large because it can't be small. 
That, I respect. Large with no purpose and for the sake of being fashionable, I don't.
... until the p.2002 came along. Amongst the diehard Paneristi there are those who will only go for "pre-Vendome" models (those before the Richemont Group bought Panerai). Personally I think that all the pre-Vendome, except for the original Radiomir California and those models fitted with Rolex movements (for collecting purposes that is), are all crap. Yep, a big ol' bunch of horse manure. Embellished by ill-placed nostalgia... "Everything used to be better back when... blabla..." We all remember our grandmothers lecturing us in a similar way. Not that they are wrong, but don't tell me that making trips by carriage beats coach on a 747!
... so, in order to NOT spoil the moment, I will shut my mouth.
Granted, double straps look vulgar. Am not a fan of double-adjacent faces either, but for some reason I like this... thing. It's confusing, weird and awkward... yet I can't stop looking at it. Have I lost my mind? Thank good this "thing" is out of my wallets range (by about a mile!) or else... no! Stop, wake up!
I would have loved to see this design on one dial instead of two, and at a more affordable price. It sure would move away from the same'ol boring stuff.
As expected, the U2 destroys the competition. You got to love the "krauts" for these benchmark test. Here the guys at "UHREN Magazin" test 9 extreme divers (up to 2,000 €) to the last consequence. Personally I believe that the U2 is the best automatic diver out there at any price, putting it in that category is a bit unfair to say the least. It outclasses the competition by a landslide. The only diver superior to the U2 is their own SINN UX, but since it is a quartz many purists would not wear it out on the dry. This makes the U2 more versatile. If you can read German then knock your self out;
If you don't you will obviously see that the SINN U2 is the only one to take full marks. What almost rendered me speechless is that they actually had the balls to tell and show a picture of a Breitling that busted. Could not take the pressure he? Being Breitling a big publicity buyer it is very rare that Uhren Magazine would actually show the picture of the exploded glass (KUDOS to Uhren Magazine for that).
They just could not keep their fingers off it... When it was presented there was ONE Pontos GMT and 500 units where to be produced. Today, there will be TWO Pontos, and 999 of each. For once that Maurice Lacroix do an attractive watch, they come and FUCK-IT-UP with this move. Why could they not leave it be, make another watch based on that style? Was the first Pontos a mistake that they just can't repeat? Their in-house manual chrono movement is a nice and refreshing novelty for ML, it would be great to have the Pontos aesthetics on that. Well, there is always Basel 2007...
The 5980: The chrono. Very disappointed. A lesser version of the 5960. What they have not lessened is the price though. At a whopping 26,300 € this is no bargain. Without the Annual Calendar I don't think that this Nautty is worthy of the "59" in its number like the 5960 and 5970. The date at 3 o'clock brakes the harmony of the dial. The "mono-compax" disposition with a 30 minute hand instead of a 60 minutes makes it difficult and impractical to read. What I do like about this piece are the pushers, they disappear harmoniously in the case of the watch.
