PIERRE KUNZ "Chrono Sport"

Just could not believe my eyes... a really cool Chrono Sport by Kunz. Although it's on the large side, a bit to big for most, it is a very cool watch to play with. The double chrono retrograde and the shifting hour markers give it a very futuristic feeling. Compared to other "fancy" chronos out there this one is very aggressively priced. Kunz's steel watches are becoming increasingly interesting... and there is something about that carbon fibber mesh that hypnotizes most of us guys. In my case, on motorbikes it just dives me to insanity.

God knows I am not a fan of "WatchLand" (Frank Muller, CVSTOS, European and Pierre Kunz) but this does not mean that they should not be praised when it need to be. I must admit that although it's difficult I can't help but like this PK. The AM/PM or day/night indicator mechanism is simply brilliant. The point of this is to have the hours from 6 PM until 6 AM with luminova on them. Instead of having the typical day/night indicator with your classic modified moon-phase disk that shows a moon and sun, you can simply look at the hours. Is this really useful? No, but the way the hour markers jump into place is simply sublime. The entire look and feel of the watch is very well put together. The view of the retrograde chrono minutes and hour hands is just better that great. The only downside is it's large size. even if it is a 44 mm, it is a very large 44 mm if you ask me. This I am afraid will not be seen in something smaller due to the thickness of the movement. If they would make this smaller the watch would inevitably look "chubby" since the thickness would have to remain the same.

The other surprising aspect is it's price, at least in my opinion. Such a new and relatively complicated watch at 14,000€/17,000$ list is very reasonable. Some give way less for much more money.

PERSONAL VERDICT: Very cool watch. Too large for me but very cool none the less.

Pierre Kunz...

Deja vu...

When is se the RM005-FM I can't help but get that itchy feeling. Yes, that weird feeling that although I am not 100% convinced it is a watch for me it might though be a very interesting watch to own in the future. Inevitably I would regret my decision if I didn't go for it.

It's the same felling I had when I decided NOT to get the OffShore "End of Days", big mistake. Actually, both share many similarities. They are both Limited Editions, although 300 and 500 respectively are not what I would call limited at that price point and total production numbers. Both look more like funky sumer watches and don't really reflect an expensive feeling, back then the EOD looked like a citizen diver and the FM looks like a LEGO watch. Both deviate substantially from the other lineup, the FM with the sandblasted finish and the EOD with the PVD coating. Both have something yellow in them. Both have detractors at first and fans later...

Looking at these similarities I can't help but wonder if the FM will follow the EOD and almost triple in value over time. My only negative point would be that the FM is at a much higher price point than the EOD was, which by todays standards could be considered a bargain. Regular production watches that start at the 30's range usually don't ever go beyond their list price (except for some very rare Pateks or other vintage watches of course) even if they are LEs. Will the FM ever be worth something in the 90's? I sincerely doubt that, but maybe in 30 years... with inflation who knows.



Richard Mille...
Audemars Piguet...

NUBEO "Black JellyFish"

This new comer seems to have its ideas straight. Not just a flashy gimmicky design or another cool summer watch, the Nubeo "Medusse" project seems to be taking shape. The case construction and attention to manufacturing details are unusual at these price points. No mater the size and weight of the Medusse, the curved back of the watch makes it comfortable for anybody. The ladies models are particularly interesting and become a more sensible option to the AP Lady Chronos that cost a fortune. Plus, if you give one to your girlfriend/wife/boyfriend/friend you just won't get heart arrhythmia when he/she takes it to the beach or engages in other activities that are not appropriate for outrageously expensive time pieces.

A great balance between fun, summer, price and durability. Its extravagant design might not be of everybody's taste but you are getting your moneys worth in terms of quality. One thing is certain though, lately manufacturers are more busy copying than creating (CVSTOS for instance), the Jellyfish is not a copy of something else... thanks for that guys.

Nubeo...

VERTU "Constellation"

This new VERTU "Constellation" will be presented next month around the world. I must admit that I am not impressed, and also a bit disappointed. Not impressed because at a first look it seems to be a Nokia 8800 dressed up in drag at four times the price. Disappointed because initially the idea behind VERTU was to have a very well made and durable shell that can be upgraded via the insides once there was better electronics. With the introduction of new models this whole philosophy goes down the drain. The way things look now is that they will be more interested in selling new phones and updates for existing models will cease to be priority.


I will wait to have and surf one for a while before I pass final judgement.

more details...

VERTU

Farewell to the RM005...

It has not be so long since the introduction of the RM005. The 005 is/was RM's hottest seller. The RM005 opened the possibility for more people to have access to own a Richard Mille. Now the RM005 is gone... but it has been replaced by the RM010. The upgrade is essentially a larger case and a skeletonized movement for only a 10% price increase. Quiet sensible since it also opens the possibility for those with larger wrist to be comfortable with one. Both are the same movement and are hardly recognizable when seen at a distance. Even though the RM010 is larger the proportions are similar to its smaller brother making them look bigger or smaller depending on the actual owner. It is only then when they are turned around that the difference between both is quiet apparent. The RM010's skeletonized movement takes the spotlight.

Many comments and debates have flared up regarding the discontinuation of the RM005. Personally I welcome its disappearance and don't see it as a "death" but more as a way for the company to evolve. It's good to leave emblematic models behind, it creates a sense of history that is sometimes crucial to marketing. Some speculate that the price of the RM005 will be negatively affected in the second hand market. I am not to certain about that, there is one "little" detail that nobody has observed. The RM005 is waterproof to 100 meters, versus the 50 meters of the RM010. Yes, the RM005 is the RM with the highest waterproof value. That alone could be a reason for prices to actually rise.

Richard Mille...

Summer time...

Many have already started they vacations. Most of us will choose some beach along the Mediterranean and a few will rather go for cooler mountain air. For those that will have chosen the beach beware. After going through perils like traveling, thieves, carelessness and customs agents you will face one of your watche's worst enemies, the beach. Since for many not wearing a watch to the beach would fell like you are going naked, choose your companion well.

My choice; The SINN U2. Apart from looking like it's built like a tank, it actually is! The bezel has been rendered virtually scratch-proof by treating it with liquid hydrogen. This process called "Tegiment" will cause steel to harden to levels of ceramics. The case is made out of German submarine steel that is guaranteed to be corrosion-proof, as well as impervious to salt water. It is waterproof to way beyond what you might dive to. It is a GMT, very convenient if your beach of choice is not in your home time zone. Despite its size and weigh it is very comfortable due to the rubber strap and fantastic clasp.

If you are thinking about one, forget it, you are to late. The are back ordered in most markets for and average of 6 months.

SINN...

Deals, Discounts & Old Stock...

Here is a very honest first contact critique from Velociphile on two of AP's boys, the Jumbo and the more recent 15300. I must admit that I agree with both critiques and conclusions, but there is one thing I would like to point out to buyers... he comments;

"Additionally, the winding rotor of this piece exhibited quite a lot of stick, very different from the free running item of the brand spanker. Maybe it had just been stored a while, but disappointing all the same. You wouldn't want to leave the showroom feeling like it needs a service or with "let's see how it goes" ringing in your ears."

With this I would like to point out that watches that have been sitting in stores for some time will/might have problems. Like described in the Watch Maintenance Guidelines not moving the watch (keeping it in a safe) and heat (direct sunlight, display halogens, hot shop windows...) will most likely render the lubrication ineffective or non existent. If you can, order the watch as factory fresh as possible. What you save on a good deal at the store you will eventually loose in servicing, plus the aggravation... Remember that 90% of the stores that sell watches have no idea what they sell. Regardless of what the seller says, ALL good watches need service. Whether it's cleaning, lubricating or changing rubber gaskets you will inevitably need to go through the hoop (...and sometimes it's on fire!). Make sure you count the possible cost of having the watch serviced to the total cost of the watch, then decide if it is a deal or not.

Girard-Perergaux "Laureato EVO3"

The Laureato was always the "Cinderella" of the bunch, hidden away and unnoticed. Born in the Seventies, like the Royal Oak from AP or the Nautilus from Patek. While the other two seemed to thrive and evolve the GP simply went nowhere. With the new Laureato EVO3 it now looks like they are tailgating. Suspiciously familiar to the 3712 it looks like an attempt to ride its success. By today's standards this has become normal in the industry, ask Hublot...


All this said I must admit I like the Laureato EVO3. I gives a chance for those that liked the functionality of the 3712 to have it at half the price, about 8,000€ list price. It really is a great deal and an alternative to the Oak and the Nautilus. Except for the glamour aspect it really has nothing to envy from the other two.

Girard-Perregaux...

Revivals

Revivals of classics is becoming more than just a trend. Like Jaeger's AMVOX1 that is a re-edition of the "Polaris" from the 60's or Patek's "World Timer" that was recently upgraded to look even more like the original. If they where popular watches in their time and the style is back in fashion, why not add todays manufacturing and finishing to yesterdays designs?

This re-edition of the "California" will be highly sought after. The approximate 5,000$ price is well within reason although the 47 mm Radiomir case might be a bit too large. Unlike the Jaeger this one does not vary and is as close to the first and original Panerai as possible. In this day and age where everybody has to have their brand in big heavy letters everywhere, Panerai (Richemont Group) have decided to be true to the original and have no brand on the dial, kudos to you guys... This could very well be the most authentic replica ever made. Many Panerai collectors "must" have this Radiomir in their collection.

New materials for base-plates

It has been several years now that watchmakers exploring nonconventional materials for watch cases. Ceramic, ALUSIC, Zalium, Alacrite 602, Tantalum, etc... amongst others are some of the different options that can be found in more and more brands. The trend seems to be growing, and has been very successful in some cases, yet now it's time to turn to the base-plates. Renaud & Papi seem to be at the forefront of this. First with the high-end Richard Milles in "carbon nano-fiber" and recently this Jules Audemars from AP in "agate".

Wether the results are positive or negative time will tell. What is obvious is that the look of these little gems is really spectacular. Unfortunately at the moment the cost of machining such plates makes it exclusive to very expensive watches.

PITA "Oceana"

Still only a prototype, this PITA "Oceana" shows some promise. What is revolutionary here is the construction of the case. It has no crown and no back plate making it waterproof to surreal depths. It is not filled with silicon-oil and measures 42 mm wide and only 17 mm think. The concept is based upon pressure itself to ensure its waterproofness. The more pressure is exercised on the case, the more it becomes airtight. The glass is a special 8 mm thick poli-blablabla-acrylic... (just can't remember) that will, unlike sapphire or mineral glass, withstand maximum pressures without fading or braking. Quiet a logic and simple conclusion if you ask me, but like many things somebody else could have thought of that but didn't. Maybe this is where genius truly lies.


I can't wait to see the final or more advanced versions.

PITA...

Patek underpriced?

After the 3712's stratospheric price increase, going from 18,000$ (list price) to, in some cases, above 36,000$ (pre-owned but unworn). Was it really because it was retired before all where manufactured and delivered to the stores? For the most part this is probably true, yet looking around at new or resurrected brands it seems that Patek is very reasonably priced. Hell, they look like a bargain! There are several "fellows" out there that are asking real fortunes for a lot of show and very, very little history. I don't question their excellence, but it is inevitable that I compare their price-tag to Patek or Rolex. I am not a big fan of either but I do consider them good points of comparison when it comes to pricing. In my book a Patek 5970 goes way before a Lange Datograph Perpetual (the Lange is around 60k more, and even if the finishing of the Lange goes beyond that of the Patek...).


Comparing them with these "benchmarks" gives me a good idea of their value for money relationship. However, this "meter" of mine seems to be way off lately, because I just can't agree with some of the prices out there. I am really making an effort not to mention some ridiculous examples out there. Look around for yourself and compare, you will be surprised.

Guidelines & Recommendations

I have setup a page with what I think are the most important "guidelines" to ensure the longevity of a watch. Without going into "psycho-care" these are a good start, especially for novel watch lovers. Most of you will have these in your mind already. Even though they might be common sense to you they are definitely not to everybody. This list is very useful if you just gave you wife/girlfriend/husband/boyfriend a Patek and he/she is NOT from "Watch-Planet".

Guidelines & Recommendations...

The fist ten are general guidelines, now it's time to work on the "Recommendations". A good recommendation could be; "Putting your watches in a suitcase and checking it in is not a good idea. Luggage gets lost and broken into all the time. Try to travel with one watch, in the worst case make sure the other watches are in your pockets. Tourist bags are always at danger and make a great target."

If you have any recommendations please post them here or email me. I will add the ten best.

Sometimes it makes no sense...

How can certain prices be justified? How can a Seiko Spring Drive Moon Phase be more expensive than a Rolex Submariner or a Zenith Defy Xtreme Open more expensive than an OffShore Polaris? Regardless of technical excellence, that I am sure marketing directors in any of the manufactures can dispute and argument the final prices of their products. Flicking through watch magazines lately I can help but wonder if the world has gone mad.



The market has no heart and understands no mercy. It is very human to attach yourself to material objects (unless you are a communist) and value them well above what they really are worth. How nasty was your surprise last time you had your beloved car valued at a dealer when you where about to purchase a new vehicle? Ouch! Truth hurts, especially once you get sick of that Zenith Defy Open (yes, the one that cost you around 20k after discount). Bad move in the first place...

Jacob & Co. "QUENTTIN"

This looked like the first serious Jacob & Co. the Quenttin. At the factory where they are supposed to manufacture the movements they have 130 orders. Now with recent developments they are not certain as to what the outcome will be. What will happen, who knows?

To be honest I was very surprised (and stunned that it was proposed by Jacob) to see this in Basel and would be very disappointed if it where not to see the light. If things should go bust, and it does look bad for Jacob Arabo, let's hope somebody will pickup the project.

JACOB in Jail...

...no wonder. Looking at the "clientele" he caters to (pimps, whores, sleaze-balls, home video starlets, metrosexuals, tax evaders, gangsters...) it was only a mater of time. Like my mother always said; Tell me who you are with and I will tell you who you are".
There are two stories around, one on drugs the other on money laundering, you choose. Pathetic is how little this story has been reflected amongst watch industry internet publications and forums. Guys, buy your selves some balls...

drugs...
money...
court documets...

P.s. Looking at the allegations I am not certain of Jacob and Co.'s future, maybe it will be a collectible and it's time to buy... nahhh.

LANG & HEYNE "Prince Albert of Saxony"

Probably one of the nicest "high-end" mono-pusher chronos in the market today. The aesthetics of the movement is remind you to a certain Breguet, but at a much lesser cost of course...





Lang & Heyne...

Betting on the wrong horse

It is understandable that ALL in the watch industry copy each other (except for only a few). The truth is that since Luis Abraham Breguet's developments (over 200 years ago) and the designs of the first half of the 1900's the watch world has been pleasantly rolling along. Believe it or not, but 90% (... I might be exaggerating here...) of all that is manufactured, conceived and sold today is or can be traced back to those origins in one way or another.

Lately competition has become more an more fierce and some manufacturers just can't keep their eyes off the competition. Here is an example; Hublot with the Big Bang did not only grossly copy AP's Montoya and the idea behind the OffShore but now this...

At least AP had the decency to pick a wining team like the "Alinghi", but the Swiss soccer team? Hate to burst their bubble but if they make first round... now that would be nothing short of a miracle!

UPDATE: Switzerland made it to the next round...

Platinum

For all of those that can't understant the "steep" increase in price of Platinum watches/cases here is a great explanation from URWERK.

PDF...



If this is still not enough and your German is more than acceptable I recommend some of these documentaries on DVD. It's worth seeing what kind of work goes into doing the cases.

ZZL...

Ding Dong....

Word of caution to Switzerland, the Japanese are back! ... or at least they are trying, but with a different approach this time. While the Chinese are busy developing low cost movements that not long ago were Monopolies of the Swiss, the Japanese are attempting to enter the high-end finishing market. I must admit that Credor was amongst the interesting stands at the Basel Fair (wait, I forgot to add them to my BEST list, will correct that right now...) and really think that their effort will eventually show sooner or later. It will take time though before people will accept that the Japanese are capable of making serious watches and it will take even longer before people would be willing to pay close-to European prices. I won't be sorry about that since it was their fault in the first place. That's what you get guys for flooding the market (and almost destroying the Swiss Watch Industry in the process) with cheap crap. Serves you well guys, now fix it.

At this point what I find unrealistic is a Seiko priced at over 100,000 €, even if it is a repeater. What becomes ludicrous are statements like;

"The very first production timepiece for the international market will be available at the SEIKO Center in Paris in November for private viewing by appointment."

So now, you need to take an appointment to see a Seiko? What will be next, background checks and recommendations to have the honor to own one? Pride would be a big reason why I would never ask for an appointment to see a Seiko. Especially since most really big names (Patek, AP, Jaeger...) will INVITE you personally to see even more extraordinary pieces than this. Some people should definitely be checked for drugs on a regular basis. A good clue is when they come up with ideas such as this. Lange tried something like that with their Tourbograph, but was discarded because the dealers refused to enforce and tell the client that first he had to be accepted, allowed and qualify to spend over 400,000 € on a watch. I dare not say what I would tell my dealer if he came with such demands (in the unlikely case I would ever consider something like that, let alone even afford it!). "Stick it where the Sun don't shine" ...would be the first thing that comes to my mind.

I will not be surprised when the first pieces of this Credor start to hit the secondary market at 60% to 70% discounts rather sooner than later.

Nice "exercise" though...

Press release...

Credor...