ZENITH "ChronoMaster Open Neo-Vintage"

Zenith, no, please stop it, stop the torture! If I see one more Open ChronoMaster my head will explode. Worse, I am sick of "El Primero" everywhere. Those that know what it is already know it's in there. The ones that don't, just don't give a shit. Really.

I remember back when Zenith was only an obscure to the general public yet highly respected manufacturer. Appreciated by many insiders and collectors alike a decade ago, today it seems to be stuck in the past. It's as if they are going nowhere (except their price, that has been going way north). What once was a great powerhouse is stuck mechanically in the past and has turned rather to glamour-promotion than thechnological feats. It's almost as if "El primero" was a curse instead of an achievement. They seem unable to move on.

... and that term, "Neo-Vintage"... what the hell? Wait! I got one for you, "Neo-Crap". Nice he?

Zenith...

Richemont buys Roger DuBuis...

Yep, that sure sounded as a surprise. Carlos Dias has reportedly sold Roger DuBuis for 600 million Swiss Francs.

Looking at precedents I am confident that Richemont will be able to do something with this purchase. Will Roger DuBuis be a respectable house after all? Let's see a year from now...

Let's see who is next.

Richemont Group...
Roger DuBuis...

UPDATE: Nautilus 30th Anniversary

Ok, we are getting closer. This is what I know for know;

- There will be three models. A Jumbo, a Moon and a Chrono.

- Although the Chrono will be presented on the 11th it will have a delay in delivery of at least 2 months. It seems that the seconds hand of the chrono was too light and "vibrated" when in action. They had to redesign the seconds hand and remanufacture them, a delay is inevitable. I must admit that although I am disappointed at the delay I am very glad Patek did not just look the other way and addressed the issue immediately. A few manufacturer would not have even noticed (I recall flaws like screws falling off a certain model by a certain High-End manufacturer).

- The case of the new Nautilus will have several "slight" changes. The side "wings" will be reduced, the resulting case will harmonious than the older model. The new case will be thicker and in a more soft convex shape (that is unconfirmed though).

- The Chrono will not have an annual calendar complication.

- The Chrono will be automatic and based on the 5960. Which means that it will be modular. What I don't know yet if it is a tricompax, bicompax or like the 5960 has the counters of the chrono in the same axis.

More next week...

TIFFANY "Mark T-57 Tri-Retrograde Chrono"

Here it goes, another alternative chorno. Actually, I like this one (will have to see it in the flesh though). I must admit I am impressed at the design and at the price (the steel model for 7,500 $). Tiffany claims that "they conceived and designed the watch themselves"... yeah, right.

Not too shabby Tiffany, not shabby at all...

Tiffany & Co...

WOW!

A few post down I complained that the new Master Tourbillon was not bold enough. Today I have discovered this amazing piece! Why didn't Jaeger give their latest Tourbillon that same look? You can be certain that if they did there would be lines waiting in front of dealers similar to that of teenagers at their favorite bands concerts. (just kidding...)


The Master Repeater in Platinum was already a great piece of work. The Master Repeater in Titanium is the icing on the cake. A brilliant, more modern execution on the previous version. This proves that the Master series can look up to date.

By the way, in a perfect world ALL repeaters, alarms and sonneries should be in titanium cases. The less dense the metal the more sound performance you will get. However, it is difficult to explain to somebody that he/she will have to dish-out about 200k for something that is not gold or platinum. I will post a sound file to demonstrate the difference between the rose gold Compressor Memovox and an AMVOX1. The difference is quite noticeable, to say the least.

PRICE E.U: 119,000 € aprox.

Jaeger leCoultre...

Genta goes tantalum as well...

I admit I have a soft spot for Genta Retrogrades and tantalum. These are both. The price would be my only problem... ouch! (Incidentally, if you guys at Genta ever read this, could you PLEASE do something about your crowns? They just don't work too well on the more sporty models. They are OK on smaller women's Mickey Mouse model but these larger more masculine Arenas just don't look the part. Thanks.)

Tantalum is becoming a real option and alternative for those who want the "heft" of gold yet don't like its yellow color. AP was first with the Royal Oak to use this precious metal. Lately Panerai and Hublot have also added this metal to some of their limited series models. The Panerai Tantalum had a full case and the Big-Bang only the bezel. Tantalum has several interesting properties. It is hypoallergenic, almost as heavy as gold (yet much harder) and is as resistant as glass against corrosion and acids. Tantalum is a very dark metal that gets purplish color over time and feels warm to the touch, contrary to steel that feels cold.

Let's hope that the backs are not sapphire. The movement is certainly no beauty, effective but no beauty. I would rather have a solid case back, more depth rating and a nice engraving rather that seeing the back of an ETA or Valjoux 7750.


Gerand Genta...

PATEK, WHERE IS THAT CHRONO!?!

After much speculation (and at this point probably wishful thinking) that it would be replaced by an in-house Patek movement, the 5070 with the "Nouvelle Lemania" is still around. Honestly guys, isn't it time to do something about this? The 5959p was obviously not the replacement.
Come on Mr. Stern, grant us a NEW manual bicompax chrono born and raised in Patek. Especially knowing that Lemania has ceased supply of their movement to companies outside of the Swatch Group. Fellas, Basel 2007 would be a great opportunity to at least show that you are doing something about it? What about the new 30th anniversary Nautilus that is around the corner? I simply can't believe that it will have a Lemania inside. It just makes no bloody sense! Especially since the 5070 will only be produced until 2008 and Lemania has ceased to supply this movement. The question is; Will the new Nautty have the long awaited Patek chrono?

Personally I believe that there is NO WAY that the new Nautty will have the same movement as the 5070.

OVERSEAS "Dual Time"

YAWN... been there, done that.


Looks familiar? Take a look at this Royal Oak.

Vacheron Costantin...

REVERSO "Sun Moon"

It is very unfortunate but the Reverso is one of my weaknesses that I will never be able to indulge. Because of a strangely placed bone in my wrist it just sits horribly. Too bad, I am a big Fan of Jaeger's Reverso. Fortunately there is the new "Squadra" and many such as I will be able to have a reversible or two-sided watch!

Anyway, back to this baby. For those with the right kind of wrist (and wallet) you should consider this beauty if you are shopping for a reverso. I admit, I have a soft spot for 8-day power reserves. To me at least they are the most convenient movements. Wind them once a week, no need for winders, awesome. This reverso is a beauty, on both sides.


Enjoy.

PRICE E.U: 13,500 € aprox.
PRICE U.S: 17,000 $ aprox.

Jaeger leCoultre...

Not for me...

I have noticed lately that many (dealers, publications and others...) are pushing the Millenary very hard. I wonder if this strategy will eventually payoff and not discredit those that are pushing it. Personally I think that the Millenary is one of AP's mistakes. It's just horrible.

I have no other way to describe it, it just does not work for me. There is nothing written about taste but this? Because I try to keep an open mind I have embarked on a quest to find somebody that could explain to me (in case I missed it) why this is a nice looking watch. Needless to say, I am still searching. Maybe my problem is that I do like symmetry and the dial takes me to the side. I might reconsider and who knows, it might grow on me. Maybe it's just that the movement is nothing special and that definitely does not help.

If you like the Millenary please respond and explain this to me. (Subsequently write a 500 word essay titled "My irresistible urge to NOT wear my glasses... ever".)

Audemars Piguet...

UPDATE: Nautilus 30th Anniversary

A little birdie has told me that the Nautilus chrono will have the "Nouvele Lemania" that is already in use in their 5070.

This is unconfirmed for now but I would not be surprised. If this turns out to be true, and they don't add something radically new to it (a power reserve would be a great addition), then I must sat that Patek are as LAME as I feared they would be. I hope that the other Nauties are more "special" than that.

Patek Philippe...

LEICA "M8"

My M6 has been with me for 18 years now. I had many more sophisticated auto-focus cameras but none ever came close to my M6. There is something mystical about this Leica. Its feel, handling and need for the Photographer to control most aspects of the shot make it unrivaled by any other camera. This camera was so good that it took Leica 18 years to make the M7.

These last few years I have left analogue photography a bit aside. Digital photography apart from being cheaper and quicker has been making huge leaps in quality over these years. I also admit that since I don't have a black-room anymore commercial prints are no way near as rewarding. I have not used my M6 for about 3 years now and the other "girls" just don't feel the same.

Leica has not transitioned too well to the Digital era and their financial situation is not too buoyant because of this. It has taken them 3 years to adapt their flagship "M" camera to the new media. In about 3 weeks the very much anticipated M8 will hit the stores at last! After miles of rumors and speculation the first digital M will see the light.


The overall feel I have at this new M is very positive. However, looking at the M8 there are several things that could have been improved. Not being a full-frame sensor is one flaw and that it has a metal electrical shutter is the other (plus, I miss the wind lever). Even if the shutter speed is increased from 1000 to 8000, the shutter sound is not the same. Believe or not, the quietness of the "M" series shutter is one of the main attractive for Leica owners. Here is an awesome audio file; first you will hear the shutter of the cloth curtain and second the new metal curtain. I guess that a cloth shutter would also be a more likely to leave dust on the digital sensor. Other than that, Leica have managed to keep the M8 true to the M philosophy. In any case, with the constant evolution technology don't discard an M9 two years from now.

The M8 is on my x-Mass wish list... can't wait to start shooting again.

Review...
Leica...

Not bold enough...

It's almost as if Jaeger has officially opened "hostilities" with their new Tourbillon. There is nothing special about it except the price and that it's a Jaeger. Usually, in-house tourbillons from high-end manufacturers cost around 150k... this one is around the 35k mark. Quiet a first, if you ask me, and a very polemical move since the Swiss watch industry is very protective about their top of the line movements (yes, I know there are three kinds/levels of Tourbillons...). Incidentally this protectiveness will inevitably be their downfall since those inflated prices are causing "outsiders" to make movements such as these at a fraction of the cost, but that is another story... With developments such as this it becomes more and more difficult to justify the prices of most other Tourbillons out there. Why would you pay that much money for a piece'o crap Channel Tourbillon?.. unless you are a complete idiot of course. Don't be surprised to see more of these Tourbillons at this price range next year at the Geneva/Basel fairs next year. Jaeger could very well be responsible for bringing this wonderful movement a little closer to many that could not even think of owning a tourbillon, ever. For that, hats off to you Jaeger.

Even though I am glad that Jaeger had the guts to come out with this I must admit that I feel as if they did not go all the way. There are many boring looking Tourbillons in the market out there, this one looks like nothing new. A Compressor Tourbillon or even an AMVOX3 would have been a much bolder move. Maybe next year...

Jaeger leCoultre...

Perpetual OffShore

The only watch not to have any brand name or company logo on the face or bezel. Very few of these OffShore Perpetuals (about 15 units) where made and it's likely that AP have not noticed that "flaw" on the face. Until now the Perpetual OffShore has been flying under the radar. It's very unlikely that they would make such a watch and not put their brand on the face on purpose. If you where AP would you make a double complication and not put your logo there? Don't think so?.. me neither.

This OffShore was well before its time. A steel Perpetual weighing half a pound at that price, unthinkable! Back then when watches where still small (hell, Rolexes where BIG watches!) such a behemoth was simply insane. It took AP eight years, a radical increase in the size of watches worn by the general public and many demands from collector and fans to put the Perpetual OffShore back in the production line. The new Perpetual OffShore in Titanium, not everybody's favorite metal unfortunately, this time HAS their logo and name on the face.

Psssst... AP, I you are reading this (unlikely, I know...), titanium watches and white faces just don't work too well.

Audemars Piguet...

SINN "Flieger 356"

Last week I an received an eMail that asked me to recommend a chrono for around 1,000 $. Well, here is my recommendation.

It's difficult for anybody to offer more for your money than SINN. This Flieger 356 is a classic and at that price there is really nothing to complain about. I would suggest though that its case size could be increase a couple of millimeters, by todays standards it is a bit too small. Otherwise it is a great watch, nothing to object.

SINN...

Screen Saver

Guys... here is a free, yes free, screen saver.

download here...

Let me know what you think.

More horological pornography...

The "Tourbillon Tubulaire Architechtural" by Richard Mille.


No need to comment.

PRICE E.U: 388,000 €
Limited to 30 units.

Richard Mille...

URWERK "103.07 Targa"

A slight improvement to the already stunning 103.03 Targa the 103.07 takes the relay. It inherits the stripes of the 103.05 Side View in Platinum. The new variant is only a slight improvement, yet an improvement none the less.

The 103 keeps getting better.

PRICE E.U: 49,000 € aprox.
PRICE U.S: 56,000 $ aprox.

URWERK...

Sweet Transition

It seems that the new AP escapement will not be a futile exercise after all. Unlike many other renowned manufacturers AP seems to be going ahead to integrate this new escapement in their entire movement lineup. The plans today is that at least 75% of all the movement that leave their factory have the new escapement by 2010. The transition will be progressive and is being executed as I write this. It is very likely that regular line models with the new escapement will see the light at the Geneva Show next year.

I would love to see the calibre 2121 with that new upgrade. A reissue of the legendary Jumbo would be a great and more affordable way to introduce this new escapement into society.

Audemars Piguet...

UPDATE: Nautilus 30th Anniversary

Confirmed. There will be a larger normal Nautilus with a chrono movement inside. The case was "spotted" and described as; "... larger and with two holes for the pushbuttons of the chrono movement."

Whether it is the movement of the 5960 or a completelly new chrono remains to be seen. What it won't be is the movement of the 5070 for sure.

God, I hope it's not a LAME tricompax automatic with a date, probably sourced from somebody else...

Patek Philippe...