The original Jumbo had a water resistance of 120 meters. I hope that this one goes at least to 100...
Patek Philippe...
NAUTILUS "5711 Jumbo"
Thank you! The original Nautilus is back, and from the looks of it it's here to stay.
The original Jumbo had a water resistance of 120 meters. I hope that this one goes at least to 100...
Patek Philippe...
The original Jumbo had a water resistance of 120 meters. I hope that this one goes at least to 100...
Patek Philippe...
NAUTILUS "5712 Moon"
After the phenomenal success of the 3712 Patek have reissued it as the 5712. The only difference is the side hinges that have been redesigned like the other Nautiluses in the range. If you always wanted one here is your chance. If you planed to upgrade from the older 3712 I suggest you don't, the 3712 is a very rare piece and it will be even more expensive over time.
Patek Philippe...
MING "Full Fluid Drive"
Recently I came across this little beauty.
Take your time to read the whole thing. It sure sounds amazing. However, I think that we would have to wait a couple of decades before something like this could be manufactured.
Article...
Ming Thein...
Take your time to read the whole thing. It sure sounds amazing. However, I think that we would have to wait a couple of decades before something like this could be manufactured.
Article...
Ming Thein...
UPDATE: Nautilus 30th Anniversary
100% confirmed. This will be the presented lineup for the 30th Anniversary Nautilus;- The Jumbo with no power reserve and the same line pattern as the original.
- The 3712 will be called 5712 and will be exactly the same watch except for that minor rounding of the sides.
- The 5712 will be on leather in white and rose gold. The rose gold with a brownish face.
- The chrono (a mono-compax at 6 o'clock) is based on the 5960 but will not have the annual calendar function. It will have the date with a window at 3 o'clock though.
- All will have the classic Patek line pattern on the face (thanks for that!).
- The variation on the case will be minimal. Only the hinges that stick out a little are slightly rounded off. You will not be able to see the difference from three feet away.
Will have pictures on the 11th at 10 a.m. European time...
Patek Philippe...
TIFFANY "Oracle"
Very impressive.However, I would pay good money to have that "T" removed. Truly a masterpiece, yet smudged by that unnecessary and tasteless final touch.
Imagine the Mona Lisa. Now imagine the Mona Lisa holding an ice cream cone. This is the same.
Tiffany & Co...
Denied...
They deny everything. Wonder who started this "rumor"... hmmm.Let's wait and see. I am certaian there is more to this than meets the eye.
Official Press Release...
SINN "UX"
Am not a quartz guy but this is an interesting watch to look into, especially if you are a diver. Unfortunately because it's filled with silicon oil it is impossible to have an automatic movement inside. The resistance of the silicon oil would not allow the weight of the movement to wind the watch properly. A manual could be an idea but I guess that there are several problems with that as well. This monster is rated at a depth over and beyond 12,000 meter. Yes, it goes deeper than any submarine (and most likely any living being on earth). Why need that sort of waterproofness you ask? Well, why do you own a car that goes faster than the legal speed limit? Same thing here. Because I could... if I would (not that I do, of course ;-D).What I particularly like about this UX is that it does not have that annoying air bubble of similar models from other manufacturers. The added benefit of being much easier to read when under water (because of the oil inside the face) adds a certain "eeriness" to the watch, as if it was its natural habitat.
SINN...
Stupid Little Things
Even though many manufacturers go about their daily business as if they float above us mortals, silly mistakes are a common thing. The same annoyances keep appearing over and over again. The problem lays in their inability and lack of communication with the "final customer" of their products. Authorized dealers are not good council, their main concern is making money (understandable). Big collectors are of no use either. Collectors can't wear the watch long enough to give useful feedback. The press is of no help either, they are concerned with publicity.
Here are three of the very annoying things that are continuously repeated:
Automatic 8-day power reserves:
Why add redundant automatic winding? Why make the movement thicker and add more things that could brake or go wrong? Trust me, there is no need for your 8, 7 or 10 day power reserve to be automatic. If winding a watch once a week is too much for you... then you are not worth owning any watch at all.
Manual Perpetual Calendars:
Perpetual Calendars are delicate and are sometimes a nightmare to set properly. They should be on winders (if not worn regularly) all the time so that you don't have to go through setting it over and over again. If it's a manual wind then you will have to be very careful not to forget to wind it almost everyday. A true nightmare (especially if your perpetual doesn't even have a power reserve).
Manual wind with screw-down crown: Screwing and unscrewing a crown on a daly basis will wear the screw of the crown, eventually it will brake. If you have to use the crown often, you DON'T want it to be screw-down. These crowns where initially meant to increase waterproof ratings on automatic diver's watches and have no business in manual wind watches. Over a period of one year you will have to screw and unscrew the crown about 200 times. Eight-day power reserves are more acceptable with a screw-down crown.
These are some of the very annoying things that manufacturers in general keep doing. Unfortunately they keep pooping up.
It would be more productive to talk more to end consumers and less to their usual sources of information. Manufacturers make the mistake of talking to their dealers, their dealer's best customers (sometimes) and the specialized press. What is wrong whit this picture? The dealers and owners of the businesses see only big dollar signs when you talk to them about the big brands. Plus, most of the sales staff is inadequate to handle high-end watches. Their contribution is limited to retransmitting information that can be reinterpreted. The authorized dealer's best customers that get invited to cocktails and visits to the factories have usually a big collection to begin with (or else they would not get invited in the first place). These customers usually don't test-drive the watches sufficiently since they rotate the watches in their collection quite a lot. As a result, asking about the performance of a watch that has had about a week of wrist time per year is futile to say the least. Last but not least, the press. You can't ask somebody about an honest opinion when they are dependent on YOU buying publicity in their magazine. Would you say to a potential buyer that his/her product is terrible and you just don't want to see this in next month's issue? I think not.
I know that having everybody telling you what to do is difficult but listening sometimes could make a great difference.
Here are three of the very annoying things that are continuously repeated:
Automatic 8-day power reserves:
Why add redundant automatic winding? Why make the movement thicker and add more things that could brake or go wrong? Trust me, there is no need for your 8, 7 or 10 day power reserve to be automatic. If winding a watch once a week is too much for you... then you are not worth owning any watch at all.Manual Perpetual Calendars:
Perpetual Calendars are delicate and are sometimes a nightmare to set properly. They should be on winders (if not worn regularly) all the time so that you don't have to go through setting it over and over again. If it's a manual wind then you will have to be very careful not to forget to wind it almost everyday. A true nightmare (especially if your perpetual doesn't even have a power reserve).
Manual wind with screw-down crown: Screwing and unscrewing a crown on a daly basis will wear the screw of the crown, eventually it will brake. If you have to use the crown often, you DON'T want it to be screw-down. These crowns where initially meant to increase waterproof ratings on automatic diver's watches and have no business in manual wind watches. Over a period of one year you will have to screw and unscrew the crown about 200 times. Eight-day power reserves are more acceptable with a screw-down crown.These are some of the very annoying things that manufacturers in general keep doing. Unfortunately they keep pooping up.
It would be more productive to talk more to end consumers and less to their usual sources of information. Manufacturers make the mistake of talking to their dealers, their dealer's best customers (sometimes) and the specialized press. What is wrong whit this picture? The dealers and owners of the businesses see only big dollar signs when you talk to them about the big brands. Plus, most of the sales staff is inadequate to handle high-end watches. Their contribution is limited to retransmitting information that can be reinterpreted. The authorized dealer's best customers that get invited to cocktails and visits to the factories have usually a big collection to begin with (or else they would not get invited in the first place). These customers usually don't test-drive the watches sufficiently since they rotate the watches in their collection quite a lot. As a result, asking about the performance of a watch that has had about a week of wrist time per year is futile to say the least. Last but not least, the press. You can't ask somebody about an honest opinion when they are dependent on YOU buying publicity in their magazine. Would you say to a potential buyer that his/her product is terrible and you just don't want to see this in next month's issue? I think not.
I know that having everybody telling you what to do is difficult but listening sometimes could make a great difference.
ZENITH "ChronoMaster Open Neo-Vintage"
Zenith, no, please stop it, stop the torture! If I see one more Open ChronoMaster my head will explode. Worse, I am sick of "El Primero" everywhere. Those that know what it is already know it's in there. The ones that don't, just don't give a shit. Really.I remember back when Zenith was only an obscure to the general public yet highly respected manufacturer. Appreciated by many insiders and collectors alike a decade ago, today it seems to be stuck in the past. It's as if they are going nowhere (except their price, that has been going way north). What once was a great powerhouse is stuck mechanically in the past and has turned rather to glamour-promotion than thechnological feats. It's almost as if "El primero" was a curse instead of an achievement. They seem unable to move on.
... and that term, "Neo-Vintage"... what the hell? Wait! I got one for you, "Neo-Crap". Nice he?
Zenith...
Richemont buys Roger DuBuis...
Yep, that sure sounded as a surprise. Carlos Dias has reportedly sold Roger DuBuis for 600 million Swiss Francs.Looking at precedents I am confident that Richemont will be able to do something with this purchase. Will Roger DuBuis be a respectable house after all? Let's see a year from now...
Let's see who is next.
Richemont Group...
Roger DuBuis...
UPDATE: Nautilus 30th Anniversary
Ok, we are getting closer. This is what I know for know;- There will be three models. A Jumbo, a Moon and a Chrono.
- Although the Chrono will be presented on the 11th it will have a delay in delivery of at least 2 months. It seems that the seconds hand of the chrono was too light and "vibrated" when in action. They had to redesign the seconds hand and remanufacture them, a delay is inevitable. I must admit that although I am disappointed at the delay I am very glad Patek did not just look the other way and addressed the issue immediately. A few manufacturer would not have even noticed (I recall flaws like screws falling off a certain model by a certain High-End manufacturer).
- The case of the new Nautilus will have several "slight" changes. The side "wings" will be reduced, the resulting case will harmonious than the older model. The new case will be thicker and in a more soft convex shape (that is unconfirmed though).
- The Chrono will not have an annual calendar complication.
- The Chrono will be automatic and based on the 5960. Which means that it will be modular. What I don't know yet if it is a tricompax, bicompax or like the 5960 has the counters of the chrono in the same axis.
More next week...
TIFFANY "Mark T-57 Tri-Retrograde Chrono"
Here it goes, another alternative chorno. Actually, I like this one (will have to see it in the flesh though). I must admit I am impressed at the design and at the price (the steel model for 7,500 $). Tiffany claims that "they conceived and designed the watch themselves"... yeah, right.Not too shabby Tiffany, not shabby at all...
Tiffany & Co...
WOW!
A few post down I complained that the new Master Tourbillon was not bold enough. Today I have discovered this amazing piece! Why didn't Jaeger give their latest Tourbillon that same look? You can be certain that if they did there would be lines waiting in front of dealers similar to that of teenagers at their favorite bands concerts. (just kidding...)
The Master Repeater in Platinum was already a great piece of work. The Master Repeater in Titanium is the icing on the cake. A brilliant, more modern execution on the previous version. This proves that the Master series can look up to date.
By the way, in a perfect world ALL repeaters, alarms and sonneries should be in titanium cases. The less dense the metal the more sound performance you will get. However, it is difficult to explain to somebody that he/she will have to dish-out about 200k for something that is not gold or platinum. I will post a sound file to demonstrate the difference between the rose gold Compressor Memovox and an AMVOX1. The difference is quite noticeable, to say the least.
PRICE E.U: 119,000 € aprox.
Jaeger leCoultre...
The Master Repeater in Platinum was already a great piece of work. The Master Repeater in Titanium is the icing on the cake. A brilliant, more modern execution on the previous version. This proves that the Master series can look up to date.
By the way, in a perfect world ALL repeaters, alarms and sonneries should be in titanium cases. The less dense the metal the more sound performance you will get. However, it is difficult to explain to somebody that he/she will have to dish-out about 200k for something that is not gold or platinum. I will post a sound file to demonstrate the difference between the rose gold Compressor Memovox and an AMVOX1. The difference is quite noticeable, to say the least.
PRICE E.U: 119,000 € aprox.
Jaeger leCoultre...
Genta goes tantalum as well...
I admit I have a soft spot for Genta Retrogrades and tantalum. These are both. The price would be my only problem... ouch! (Incidentally, if you guys at Genta ever read this, could you PLEASE do something about your crowns? They just don't work too well on the more sporty models. They are OK on smaller women's Mickey Mouse model but these larger more masculine Arenas just don't look the part. Thanks.)Tantalum is becoming a real option and alternative for those who want the "heft" of gold yet don't like its yellow color. AP was first with the Royal Oak to use this precious metal. Lately Panerai and Hublot have also added this metal to some of their limited series models. The Panerai Tantalum had a full case and the Big-Bang only the bezel.
Tantalum has several interesting properties. It is hypoallergenic, almost as heavy as gold (yet much harder) and is as resistant as glass against corrosion and acids. Tantalum is a very dark metal that gets purplish color over time and feels warm to the touch, contrary to steel that feels cold.
Let's hope that the backs are not sapphire. The movement is certainly no beauty, effective but no beauty. I would rather have a solid case back, more depth rating and a nice engraving rather that seeing the back of an ETA or Valjoux 7750.Gerand Genta...
PATEK, WHERE IS THAT CHRONO!?!
After much speculation (and at this point probably wishful thinking) that it would be replaced by an in-house Patek movement, the 5070 with the "Nouvelle Lemania" is still around. Honestly guys, isn't it time to do something about this? The 5959p was obviously not the replacement.
Come on Mr. Stern, grant us a NEW manual bicompax chrono born and raised in Patek. Especially knowing that Lemania has ceased supply of their movement to companies outside of the Swatch Group. Fellas, Basel 2007 would be a great opportunity to at least show that you are doing something about it? What about the new 30th anniversary Nautilus that is around the corner? I simply can't believe that it will have a Lemania inside. It just makes no bloody sense! Especially since the 5070 will only be produced until 2008 and Lemania has ceased to supply this movement. The question is; Will the new Nautty have the long awaited Patek chrono?Personally I believe that there is NO WAY that the new Nautty will have the same movement as the 5070.
REVERSO "Sun Moon"
It is very unfortunate but the Reverso is one of my weaknesses that I will never be able to indulge. Because of a strangely placed bone in my wrist it just sits horribly. Too bad, I am a big Fan of Jaeger's Reverso. Fortunately there is the new "Squadra" and many such as I will be able to have a reversible or two-sided watch!Anyway, back to this baby. For those with the right kind of wrist (and wallet) you should consider this beauty if you are shopping for a reverso. I admit, I have a soft spot for 8-day power reserves. To me at least they are the most convenient movements. Wind them once a week, no need for winders, awesome. This reverso is a beauty, on both sides.
Enjoy.
PRICE E.U: 13,500 € aprox.
PRICE U.S: 17,000 $ aprox.
Jaeger leCoultre...
Not for me...
I have noticed lately that many (dealers, publications and others...) are pushing the Millenary very hard. I wonder if this strategy will eventually payoff and not discredit those that are pushing it. Personally I think that the Millenary is one of AP's mistakes. It's just horrible.I have no other way to describe it, it just does not work for me. There is nothing written about taste but this? Because I try to keep an open mind I have embarked on a quest to find somebody that could explain to me (in case I missed it) why this is a nice looking watch. Needless to say, I am still searching. Maybe my problem is that I do like symmetry and the dial takes me to the side. I might reconsider and who knows, it might grow on me. Maybe it's just that the movement is nothing special and that definitely does not help.
If you like the Millenary please respond and explain this to me. (Subsequently write a 500 word essay titled "My irresistible urge to NOT wear my glasses... ever".)
Audemars Piguet...
UPDATE: Nautilus 30th Anniversary
A little birdie has told me that the Nautilus chrono will have the "Nouvele Lemania" that is already in use in their 5070.This is unconfirmed for now but I would not be surprised. If this turns out to be true, and they don't add something radically new to it (a power reserve would be a great addition), then I must sat that Patek are as LAME as I feared they would be. I hope that the other Nauties are more "special" than that.
Patek Philippe...
LEICA "M8"
My M6 has been with me for 18 years now. I had many more sophisticated auto-focus cameras but none ever came close to my M6. There is something mystical about this Leica. Its feel, handling and need for the Photographer to control most aspects of the shot make it unrivaled by any other camera. This camera was so good that it took Leica 18 years to make the M7.
These last few years I have left analogue photography a bit aside. Digital photography apart from being cheaper and quicker has been making huge leaps in quality over these years. I also admit that since I don't have a black-room anymore commercial prints are no way near as rewarding. I have not used my M6 for about 3 years now and the other "girls" just don't feel the same.
Leica has not transitioned too well to the Digital era and their financial situation is not too buoyant because of this. It has taken them 3 years to adapt their flagship "M" camera to the new media. In about 3 weeks the very much anticipated M8 will hit the stores at last! After miles of rumors and speculation the first digital M will see the light.
The overall feel I have at this new M is very positive. However, looking at the M8 there are several things that could have been improved. Not being a full-frame sensor is one flaw and that it has a metal electrical shutter is the other (plus, I miss the wind lever). Even if the shutter speed is increased from 1000 to 8000, the shutter sound is not the same. Believe or not, the quietness of the "M" series shutter is one of the main attractive for Leica owners. Here is an awesome audio file; first you will hear the shutter of the cloth curtain and second the new metal curtain. I guess that a cloth shutter would also be a more likely to leave dust on the digital sensor. Other than that, Leica have managed to keep the M8 true to the M philosophy. In any case, with the constant evolution technology don't discard an M9 two years from now.
The M8 is on my x-Mass wish list... can't wait to start shooting again.
Review...
Leica...
These last few years I have left analogue photography a bit aside. Digital photography apart from being cheaper and quicker has been making huge leaps in quality over these years. I also admit that since I don't have a black-room anymore commercial prints are no way near as rewarding. I have not used my M6 for about 3 years now and the other "girls" just don't feel the same.
Leica has not transitioned too well to the Digital era and their financial situation is not too buoyant because of this. It has taken them 3 years to adapt their flagship "M" camera to the new media. In about 3 weeks the very much anticipated M8 will hit the stores at last! After miles of rumors and speculation the first digital M will see the light.
The overall feel I have at this new M is very positive. However, looking at the M8 there are several things that could have been improved. Not being a full-frame sensor is one flaw and that it has a metal electrical shutter is the other (plus, I miss the wind lever). Even if the shutter speed is increased from 1000 to 8000, the shutter sound is not the same. Believe or not, the quietness of the "M" series shutter is one of the main attractive for Leica owners. Here is an awesome audio file; first you will hear the shutter of the cloth curtain and second the new metal curtain. I guess that a cloth shutter would also be a more likely to leave dust on the digital sensor. Other than that, Leica have managed to keep the M8 true to the M philosophy. In any case, with the constant evolution technology don't discard an M9 two years from now.
The M8 is on my x-Mass wish list... can't wait to start shooting again.
Review...
Leica...
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