Platinum

For all of those that can't understant the "steep" increase in price of Platinum watches/cases here is a great explanation from URWERK.

PDF...



If this is still not enough and your German is more than acceptable I recommend some of these documentaries on DVD. It's worth seeing what kind of work goes into doing the cases.

ZZL...

Ding Dong....

Word of caution to Switzerland, the Japanese are back! ... or at least they are trying, but with a different approach this time. While the Chinese are busy developing low cost movements that not long ago were Monopolies of the Swiss, the Japanese are attempting to enter the high-end finishing market. I must admit that Credor was amongst the interesting stands at the Basel Fair (wait, I forgot to add them to my BEST list, will correct that right now...) and really think that their effort will eventually show sooner or later. It will take time though before people will accept that the Japanese are capable of making serious watches and it will take even longer before people would be willing to pay close-to European prices. I won't be sorry about that since it was their fault in the first place. That's what you get guys for flooding the market (and almost destroying the Swiss Watch Industry in the process) with cheap crap. Serves you well guys, now fix it.

At this point what I find unrealistic is a Seiko priced at over 100,000 €, even if it is a repeater. What becomes ludicrous are statements like;

"The very first production timepiece for the international market will be available at the SEIKO Center in Paris in November for private viewing by appointment."

So now, you need to take an appointment to see a Seiko? What will be next, background checks and recommendations to have the honor to own one? Pride would be a big reason why I would never ask for an appointment to see a Seiko. Especially since most really big names (Patek, AP, Jaeger...) will INVITE you personally to see even more extraordinary pieces than this. Some people should definitely be checked for drugs on a regular basis. A good clue is when they come up with ideas such as this. Lange tried something like that with their Tourbograph, but was discarded because the dealers refused to enforce and tell the client that first he had to be accepted, allowed and qualify to spend over 400,000 € on a watch. I dare not say what I would tell my dealer if he came with such demands (in the unlikely case I would ever consider something like that, let alone even afford it!). "Stick it where the Sun don't shine" ...would be the first thing that comes to my mind.

I will not be surprised when the first pieces of this Credor start to hit the secondary market at 60% to 70% discounts rather sooner than later.

Nice "exercise" though...

Press release...

Credor...

A. Lange & Soehne "Hommage to Richard Lange"

This is one of those watches that jump at you when seen in the flesh. Pictures just don't do it any justice. Definitely going after Patek's Calatrava, will they succeed? Difficult, but then who would have thought 10 years ago that Germans where capable of such finishes...

A. Lange & Soehne...

My WORST of the 2006 Shows...

PATEK vs. VACHERON "slugfest": PP and VC have entered a contest with the theme; "who's got the ugliest". Both are very close, yet the Patek in this instance takes the title. These two atrocities come straight out of what could be the imagination worthy of a 12 year old youngster trying to design his perfect watch. Since a picture is wort a thousand words I will let you be the Judge...


















LIGHTING: Although they look great, LEDs are not the ideal way to showcase watches. The accentuate minor scratches, misguide you in color and make the watch look dim. Many have opted this year to go with this type of lighting. Big mistake!

ROLEX: Another blank year... No, wait!!! Some "classy" diamond Daytonas anyone?



ZENITH: Sorry, but their stuff just looks cheap. It's vulgar, gaudy and keeps getting worse. Creating a marketing campain with models (giving the impression of an IQ barely over 60) and trying to bank on the excelence of their movements is not the best way to sell this product. Looking at their publicity it becomes apparent that most people that are targeted by Zenith don't know the difference between an Automatic and a Quartz movement. At this level, people that know so little about watches will spend their money on any other options...

HARRY WINSTON & deGRISOGONO: Simply pathetic that manufacturers like Harry Winston and deGrisogono showcase they jewelry lines leaving their watches on a second level. Jewelry belongs in the other building! Winston didn't even have their Z1, Z2 or Opus V. Instead what they had plenty of were diamonds and girls, that had no idea what they where talking about (jewelry included). This should be addressed by the organizers so that people that take advantage of the watch "magnet" should not be allowed to showcase jewelry instead. This was only confirmation that watches from "these" brands should not be bought... especially considering the importance that their timepieces have in their book.

"UHREN-Chronos" Magazine: Several publications make sure they are in the Newspaper Stands for the Basel and Geneva shows. If you have to take a train or plane you will most likely buy most of yesterdays news to make long hours seem shorter. However, what I did not intend to buy was last years news... Incredibly; according to this publication the Rolex GMT II is this years news, they even benchmark it as an absolute novelty. Rolex, if you wish to be in the news please do something worth mentioning and don't just buy first pages in watch magazines.





OVERDONE STANDS: Expensive and reminiscent of a Greek mausoleum, they could invest more money in training future watchmakers, spend it in developing new better movements or reducing the cost of their "after-sales services" instead. Many look to me like it's more about their egos than making an impression. Simply obnoxious...

SWISS HOTELS: Small, expensive and taking advantage of the situation.

FISH TANK: What's up with that?!?

My BEST of the 2006 Shows...

PATEK: They finally got the message. They presented a 39 mm version of their World Time, the 5130. Not only have they increased it in size so larger wrists don't look awkward but they have added the original hour hand. There is no doubt in my mind, this one will be a hit.





CHRONOSWISS: One of the nicest stands in he show. Friendly to look at and relaxing to observe... Very much in sync with their brand image.







CORUM: They had the best lighting and presentation. Considering the other poor performances I had to mention this.

SIHH: An absolutely flawless organization. Very impressive

MAURICE LACROIX: I must admit that I was surprised by LaCroix's two Limited Editions. The new in-house Chrono, although a bit pricey, is a joy to look at. The GMT is also and interesting design that has not bee seen in that brand before, and it's nod bad... not bad at all.

U-BOAT: Interesting design and finish. Unfortunately the size makes it completely unwearable. It's actually worth looking into, if you weigh 150 kg. (about 300 pounds) or simply like HUGE watches.

URWERK: They keep getting better. When you think they just can't, they show up with two models that are simply breathtaking.

SWISS PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION: It is a real blessing to be able to completely do without renting a vehicle. No mater in what city you are and if you have to go to Geneva or Basel... a train, a bus, a tramway, or a plane will leave you practically at the entrance of the fair. Always spot-on, on time and very clean.

CERAMIC: Several manufacturers are retaking "Ceramic" as an option. Panerai, AP, IWC and Hublot are proposing either full or part ceramic cases. About time!

CREDOR: An interesting development is the increase of Japanese watch makers going into the high-end finishing segment. Credor is still Seiko's baby but showing some promise, I am very curious as to how things will develop in the future. Time will tell...

HUBLOT STAND: First price for the coolest display! It consist in a column that will sense if somebody gets too close to the watch, zap!!! The showcased item is instantly retracted inside the safety of the column. The advantage of this is that you are able to have an unobstructed view and see the watch without having a glass between you and the product. What is being displayed is another story...

JAEGER LECOULTRE: It has been several years now that Jaeger are the most innovative brand. They keep introducing new models and not just Limited Editions with different color dials. The difference between Jaeger and the others is that they do develop new movements at more humane prices, not just 200 pieces at insane costs with loads of hot air. They 75 anniversary Squadra is really something.

GERALD GENTA: Their BiRetros keep getting better and finally they decided to make the better looking QuattroRetro.

Bang & Olufsen "SERENE"

The Serene is one of the coolest phones, it opens and closes by itself with the help of a small motor! The effect is quite dramatic, especially when on its charger and you receive a call. The software is limited, plain and unhelpful just like most Samsung phones, actually the graphics have been improved and simplified (a bit too much for my taste). Dialing is a nightmare and SMS'ing takes all of your attention and the whole afternoon... but it opens by-itself! The rubber surface (B &O claims it regenerates itself over time) is a bit unsettling and does not offer many guarantees as to durability... but it opens when you receive a call! The software is limited and you can't change or upload ring tones... did I mention that it opens by-itself? Another concern would be servicing, in most countries they would have to be sent via many places to have this done. This means one to three months, at least, to have the phone back...

look, it's opening!!!



Serene...

Something wrong...

I just can't put my finger on it, but there is something terribly wrong in that new Lange creation. Finally a large Datograph and a Perpetual as-well... but there is just something wrong. Got it! That moon-phase, it's just not in harmony with the rest of the face in this piece. Too small, it just looks like a "last minute" addition to that otherwise wonderful piece. I wonder how it would look without that "thing" in the middle? Let me place my thumb on the picture... much better. Wait, I got Photoshop! There you go...

What do you think?

Glashuette "SENATOR NAVIGATOR"

If you are into the old 1st WW look and want something better than a Zeno... here's you boy.

Glashuette...

REVERSO "Grande Complication"

Truly an extraordinary feat. To be able to pack that many complications into a Reverso is something that I would have never though possible. The most interesting development is the third face that has the Perpetual Calendar. Once a day at 12 o'clock the main case drives out a small pin that changes the day on the third face... ingenious. I sure hope that we will be able to see this new feature in future reverso models, and let's hope they are more affordable.




Jaeger LeCoultre...

Maurice Lacroix "PONTOS"

One of the few interesting things at Basel this year... what is surprising is that this is signed by Maurice Lacroix. I am not a fan of their stuff so far but with the "Pontos" and their latest in-house chrono I must admit I was pleasantly surprised. I like the multi-layer dials and the smart use of Luminova. Here the iridescent material contributes to the design instead of merely being informative.






Maurice Lacroix...

SILIcium Wars

Silicium seems to be the next big thing in mechanical watch making. Patek has opened fire first, and with other minor manufacturers theirs seemed to be the most talked about development this year at the fairs. Reporters and enthusiasts cheer the new silicium parts as the answer to many age-old problems. I, for one, will remain skeptical. Having been one of the victims of the Compact Disc hype in the 80's I will be cautious this time. Remember "Cold Fission" and the prospect of having a pocket-size/no-cost power plant in your home? Yes, I was one of those that thoroughly believed that CDs where the best possible audio quality and the good old vinyl was simply inferior and doomed (true about the second statement but not the first, far from it actually). I then went off to discard and give away my precious yet antiquated collection of Vinyl LPs and plunged into the CD. Big mistake, a mistake I regret to this day since the CD is to the Vinyl record what MP3 is to the CD. It is only recently that the CD is starting to sound like a vinyl (it has taken the industry almost 20 years to make CDs sound like vinyl), at a tremendous cost though. I certainly missed my vinyl collection for many years.

Undoubtedly these first watches will have an enormous collectors value, yet this whole new hype is just too familiar. In any case, until these new developments are introduced in the manufacturing of regular production models they are simply inconsequential. Limited Editions are not something that can be regarded as a major change. Now, if you tell me that "FROM NOW ON" silicium (provided it works) will be added as standard in all movements, that means more accessible models at moderate prices, than I would join the cheer and spread the hype. Until them, please don't waist my time.

No words...

Here is a perfect example of "Horological Terrorism". This is one of those horrors that many of us will be subjected to at the Fairs...

as?@&% ue74 4i2x1 2 "·&!!!

... sorry, just vomited on my keyboard.

URWERK "Blackbird"

Only 10 units of this URWERK will make this a goner. Even though black finishes are not everybody’s cup of tea, I don’t think that many will be available after they are presented at Basel this year…
The bottom picture is the "Blackbird" at night. The luminous material shines in a blue tone.

URWERK...

SQUADRA "World Chrono"

The Reverso 2.0 version for it's 75th Birthday. It was certainly time to do something about it. Without upsetting the other lineup this new evolution to a timeless classic is a great addition in Jaeger's portfolio. This larger case will be appealing to larger wrists that have been yearning for a Reverso. The Squadra might turn out to be to the Reverso what the OffShore is to the Royal Oak. The rear is simply superb!

Jaeger LeCoultre...



















UPDATE: I just noticed (read) that this thing is equipped with an automatic movement! I just had to call Jaeger because I believed it was a typo... it's not. Jaeger is really turning out to be a real "Power-House" when it comes to developing new ideas.

PATEK "5130"

YES!!! The "World Timer" re-edited in a 39 mm case, and with the classic hour hand. Not too large, not too small... just perfect. Our prayers (of the large wristed people) have been heard!

Patek Philippe...

LANGE "Datograph Perpetual"

Thank you! Things seem to get interesting at last.

A marriage between the wonderful (yet small) Datograph and the exquisite (but boooring) Perpetual. A match made in heaven. It's got the looks, the size, but I shiver at the price tag. I dare not ask.

A. Lange & Söhne...

AP "Cabinet Piece nº5"

Just like those flaming prototypes presented at International Car Shows AP presents this new creation. It is unfortunate that all of these (Watches and Cars) are beyond the reach of most mortals, yet they are marketed and publicized as a reasonably priced item. What a waste of time. Instead I wish they would include all these extraordinary new developments in their regular production watches to come...

By the way, can't stand the millenary shape although this one seems to be a little bit more harmonious. I have difficulty with non-centered dials and layouts, maybe that is why I have not jumped on a Lange yet. The dial is completely unreadable and utterly confusing, you have to squint to actually recognize that it is a Perpetual Calendar. What is really peculiar is that most of the people that will be purchasing one of these are older men that simply do not have the eyesight to use this at all. Why do they call it "Cabinet Piece nº5"? Is it because they expect "it" to stay in a cabinet?

AP...

HUBLOT "Mag-Bang"

Still not a fan of Hublot but at least they are really doing interesting stuff with alternative materials. Magnesium is not generally preferred by watch manufacturer yet with the peculiar case construction of the Bang this is easy and not excessively expensive. It is refreshing to see that more and more manufacturers are moving away from traditional/conservative materials. Especially since the standard answer in the trade is; "No, it can't be done". Too bad others don't take note. The total weight will be 72 grams. There will be 250 units, not many considering how popular the regular production model is.

In this case I like the PVD movement finish (a bit too similar to the Richard Mille RM005 though...).

VERTU "Ascent"

The Vertu "Ascent" is in a class of its own... "yes, but it's four times the price of any other high-end phone!", you might say. And you are right, but contrary to the others this one feels in your hand like a million bucks!!! Why is the Vertu better than the others? Simple, it works. The software does nothing fancy. What it does, it does very well. Actually the insides is nothing else than a two year old Nokia, but a Nokia that they had the time to properly progam, contrary to all others. The Bluetooth is impeccable, actually the only Bluetooth that I have ever owned that actually works! (I recommend you use the SonyEricsson headsets, they work with all Phones and are much more reliable than any others out there). The outsides are symply built to last, and last. Ceramic, leather, sapphire crystal and liquid metal make it much more durable than anything in the market today. The buttons have rubies under them to reduce wear, and it works! The touch on the buttons is simply magic and smooth. I have been test-driving the Vertu for 8 months now (actually I test-drive many phones) and it looks and feels like the first day. Furthermore, it is extremely stable, the software has not "bugged" once in all this time! This is not so with the other Nokia, Samsung and SonyEricsson phones that I have tested.

POSITIVE: It's built like a Tank! The software is properly written, finished and tested. First time Bluetooth works on a phone, ever. The sound quality inside and outside is great. Should there be a new Ascent next year with more options and features (maybe 3G, quad-band or Bluetooth 2.0) you can send it in and they will overhaul and upgrade the insides. At your cost of course, but your Vertu will be up to date. After having one of these, looking for phones is a thing of the past. Ah, and the absolute best thing... it does NOT have a camera! Yes, this means that you will not need to leave your phone at the desk in Government Buildings and paranoid Multinationals. Hurray, you have a phone that will not be the wet dream of adolescent MMS pros'...!

NEGATIVE: The weight. A bit too heavy for most, and way too heavy for the Ladies. Personally I love the weigh but I understand that most people prefer something light. The "Concierge Button" is completely useless if you don't live in the UK or US. If you are not a big traveler don't bother. Chances are that if you can afford a Vertu you will have a personal secretary and better connections than the Concierge Service to begin with. Conclusion; the Concierge Service is redundant. Truly disappointing are the accessories; There is no deskstand, and at that price point it should be expected. The charger and headset are substandard, even for a midrange priced phone.

VERTU...

Here we go...

Yuppie!!! Change the dial, make only a few, call it something special and voila! A brand new product to be presented to the Press. The trick actually works since you have to publish something right? It must be a real endurance race sometimes to keep smiling at manufacturers when they present such "novelties". Just imagine spending 10 days going from stand to stand, interview to interview only to report on last years news.

This is what I was talking about; the Basel and Geneva shows at their best.