A. Lange & Söhne "ZEITWERK"

I can't disguise that I am very happy to see such a development coming from the house of Lange. Finally something REALLY new from the guys over in Dresden. Not only a way to get your hands on a clientele unknown to them so far but also to re-interest those that already share their philosophy. The new "Zeitwerk" is not just a Lange, it's a great Lange. What is very appreciated is that the Zeitwerk will be joining the catalogue as a regular production item and not a limited model. I can't stress enough the fact that ultra conservative manufacturers need sometimes to go crazy and come up with ideas that are revolutionary to their heritage. I guess the best example would be AP and their Royal Oak. Going "sport-steel" has opened a whole new and before unknown market for them (and others). Developments such as this can result in an interesting and profitable direction. New developments ensure the longevity of the brand. It is those that stay anchored in rancid principles of design and clinging to the past that are likely NOT to survive in more difficult times. The past should be regarded with respect but never as guide to fix one's goals for the future. A vintage edition might work a couple of times yet ultimately you will need to look in the future.

Could this be my first Lange? Quite possibly (however, my accountant (wife) might not entirely agree with the idea). This despite being the white gold version the most attractive to me and I just can't stand rhodium plated white gold... Even though I respect and appreciate practically all of Lange's work I never came across the right Lange for me. The "Datograph" is too thick and the proportions of the case seem just not right to me... The DoubleSplit's face is too boring, especially after somebody at the manufacture decided to remove the red in the power-reserve... The "Lange 1" has the hour and minutes hands on the wrong side of the dial... The "1815" is too small (although the latest one comes closer to being a candidate). The Turbograph is well out of my reach and so is the wonderful Richard Lange "Pour le Merite"... Well, there was always something in the way of adding something as wonderfully executed as a Lange. Until now.

With this DigiGraph... pardon me, Zeitwerk the story changes. It is different in every aspect as a Lange. Considering the complication, the high price seems well in the reasonable range. The Zeitwerk is different while remaining elegant and sporty at the same time. The movement is, as with all Langes, simply sublime. The beauty of the Zeitwerk's movement is probably only second to that of the DoubleSplit. Many might think that the 36 hour power reserve is a bit short. Don't be mistaken, a standard 42 hours power reserve is not much more useful since you still have to wind it every day (because it does not reach the full 48 hours/2 days). Because of the torque requirements needed to move and jump every minute the power reserve had to be shortened to maintain a level of accuracy acceptable to Lange. In any case, the Zeitwerk is equipped with a power-reserve indicator. So that resolves that point. Personally I am a huge fan of long power reserves but NEVER at the expense of accuracy.

On the negative part I still think that the germans get their proportions between thickness and wideness wrong. It is not so bad on the Zeitwerk yet a millimeter wider would have made the case more harmonious. The strap is also a bit thin at the case. The dial could have a bit more color but I guess sobriety was a must in this case like it is in all other Lange Watches.

My only worry is really the jumping minute mechanism. It's just a question of math. Take 60 and multiply by 24, then by 365. You will roughly end up with slightly more than 500,000 jumps a year. Imagine this in ten years? We are talking about close to 5 million jumps if you decide to wear it all the time! I can assure you that if it where any other manufacturer than Lange proposing this I would discard this watch for this reason alone. Yet, it is a Lange, and as far as I know they test their products for quite a long time before officially presenting. It is known in the sector that Lange's former CEO used to wear the prototypes on his wrist for a whole year before releasing it as a product. Fact or fiction, who knows? What I know is that Lange does give a sense of "safety" like a Mercedes. Both are a safe bet in all aspects...

A. Lange & Soehne...