A good reason NOT to buy a Rolex

A while ago somebody made me aware of a "little" problem they had with Rolex. He came to tell me that Rolex did not feel obliged to service his Rolex. Why? Because it was more than 25 years old... Could not believe my ears. I Asked him for proof and got it. (If you read Spanish then take a look.)

If you don't, the letter addressed to the owner comes to say:

- That by law, Rolex is only required to have and guarantee supplies for watches that are up to 25 years old.
- His Rolex was 36 years old and even if it where to be serviced they would not give it an International Warranty.
- Even though they serviced the watch this time, they would not be able to service it any further due to a lack of parts.
- In the future they would gladly refer him to some "other" repair service that would repair the watch.

In other words; If your dad's Rolex is over 25 years and needs service, you are screwed brother! Rolex don't give a dam...

Don't think that the Rolex in question is something special. It's a very common Oyster date, nothing fancy. Mind you, Rolex has been going without something fancy for over half a century.

Can't believe that I have been praising the Rolex after sales service.


Many, including me, where very surprised at Eterna's beast. The Indicator by Porsche Design is surely a piece of machinery that turned more than a few heads. What is particularly interesting is the digital approach to display information with mechanical means. This could be the only watch that I forgive its excessive size (almost 50 mm!!!). Even though it is way too large for me (and most other humans) I respect it because the movement actually "fils" the case. It is not large because it is fashionable, it is large because it can't be small. That, I respect. Large with no purpose and for the sake of being fashionable, I don't.

It has been several years since this piece by Porsche Design (Eterna) and the design components have not trickled down to cheaper more affordable models. Very unfortunate, since I consider the other watches of Porsche Design to be very cheesy. Except for the P011 which is a replica of the first PVD'ed watch in history, there is no other watch in their current lineup that remotely says "buy me". When IWC made the PDs I remember the Ocean 2000 diver model or the Ocean with a compass, probably their most appealing watch. It would be nice to see exact replicas of these as well.

Porsche Design...

Panerai p.2002

I was never a big fan of Panerai...

... until the p.2002 came along. Amongst the diehard Paneristi there are those who will only go for "pre-Vendome" models (those before the Richemont Group bought Panerai). Personally I think that all the pre-Vendome, except for the original Radiomir California and those models fitted with Rolex movements (for collecting purposes that is), are all crap. Yep, a big ol' bunch of horse manure. Embellished by ill-placed nostalgia... "Everything used to be better back when... blabla..." We all remember our grandmothers lecturing us in a similar way. Not that they are wrong, but don't tell me that making trips by carriage beats coach on a 747!

Today, with the resources that the guys at Panerai have at their disposal (Jaeger, Lange,etc...) they are on their way to becoming not only a fashion statement but quiet nice pieces to own for a serious watchnut. What is interesting is Panerai's evolution from fashion item to a connoisseur watch. Will it succeed? Don't know yet, but with their new p.2002 calibre the road is set to achieve quiet interesting things.

The Radiomir GMT 8-days was the first to have this movement and from the looks of it it will not be the last. If you never owned a manual wind watch, 8-day power reserves are awesome watches.

Here are some computer renderings of the insides. Enjoy.

GMT function:

Zero reset device:

Spring Barrels:


Horological Pornography

I guess this need little comment...

... so, in order to NOT spoil the moment, I will shut my mouth.


Jack's Watch

For all "24" fans out there... the watch that Jack Bauer wears in season 5 is a "Special Ops". Here is the link to their watches.

Special Ops...

Initially the watch he used in the series (at least season 1) was a standard Submariner. The quality of the pictures is so appalling that I refuse to post them here (guys, do something about it!). In spite of being quartz they are cool watches none the less.

p.s. Thanks Park!

HD3 Idalgo "XT-2"

Granted, double straps look vulgar. Am not a fan of double-adjacent faces either, but for some reason I like this... thing. It's confusing, weird and awkward... yet I can't stop looking at it. Have I lost my mind? Thank good this "thing" is out of my wallets range (by about a mile!) or else... no! Stop, wake up!

This is one of those "projects" that have been in the works for some time. Personally I did not think it would ever see the light. Soon 33 people will hold one of these Idalgos (in four different metals), most of them already have an owner. It's not a Tourbillon (thanks for that!) and it is ETA based. So, why is it so outrageously expensive? Well, there is about 2,000 hours of work behind the Idalgo's XT-2 movement. You don't want to ask what Swiss engineers charge per hour... believe me, you don't.

I would have loved to see this design on one dial instead of two, and at a more affordable price. It sure would move away from the same'ol boring stuff.

PRICE Switzerland: 120,000 CHF.


SINNful whippin...

As expected, the U2 destroys the competition. You got to love the "krauts" for these benchmark test. Here the guys at "UHREN Magazin" test 9 extreme divers (up to 2,000 €) to the last consequence. Personally I believe that the U2 is the best automatic diver out there at any price, putting it in that category is a bit unfair to say the least. It outclasses the competition by a landslide. The only diver superior to the U2 is their own SINN UX, but since it is a quartz many purists would not wear it out on the dry. This makes the U2 more versatile. If you can read German then knock your self out;

UHREN Diver Test...

If you don't you will obviously see that the SINN U2 is the only one to take full marks. What almost rendered me speechless is that they actually had the balls to tell and show a picture of a Breitling that busted. Could not take the pressure he? Being Breitling a big publicity buyer it is very rare that Uhren Magazine would actually show the picture of the exploded glass (KUDOS to Uhren Magazine for that).

UHREN Magazine...


They just could not keep their fingers off it... When it was presented there was ONE Pontos GMT and 500 units where to be produced. Today, there will be TWO Pontos, and 999 of each. For once that Maurice Lacroix do an attractive watch, they come and FUCK-IT-UP with this move. Why could they not leave it be, make another watch based on that style? Was the first Pontos a mistake that they just can't repeat? Their in-house manual chrono movement is a nice and refreshing novelty for ML, it would be great to have the Pontos aesthetics on that. Well, there is always Basel 2007...

I still believe that the Pontos is the first interesting thing out of the Maurice Lacroix house. The design certainly showed some promise.

Question: If the rest of the watches you make are horrible and dealers demand more of the Pontos (such demand that they make you quadruple the original production)... Why not stop making the other shit, fire the previous design team and make the Pontos designer redesign ALL your watches? Wouldn't that be common sense? Ohhh... wait, forgot this is the watch industry.

Maurice Lacroix...

20.000 Leagues Under the Sea

Yes, they are here. At last the veil has been lifted. After much speculation Patek's Nautilus is being presented to the press this morning. Four major pieces; a small, a Jumbo, a Moon-phase and a Chrono. A little for everybody. The main changes to the case are minimal and impossible to discern at a distance. Personally I believe that they are an improvement. Subtle enough not to offend the passionate classic Nautilus loves and interesting enough for those that sunned the Nautilus because of its protruding hinges. Classicists will still be drawn to the new and slightly revised Nautilus while other might actually consider it as a probable future purchase.

Here are my very personal thoughts about each Nautty (for what it's worth...);

The 5711: The Jumbo. I am ecstatic that the original Nautty is back, and in steel! The only but here is the price. Once, the older 3710 model with a power reserve used to be about a third cheaper than a Royal Oak Jumbo (hence its success and long waiting list). The new 5711 is about the same price as its Royal Oak counterpart. This just smells like the price has been set for marketing reasons rather than cost of production. In other words, you are not getting what you are paying for. Will it be as successful? Not sure yet... could be... quite possibly. The 5070 is a similar story, with a "Nouvelle Lemania" at around 30K... is that good value for money? Evidently not, yet there is a much higher demand for this product than there is supply. Almost forgot. Yes, it is waterproof to 120 meters. Love you for that!

The 5712: The 3712 being a phenomenon it would have been a terrible mistake to NOT do a 5712. Probably my favorite of the new lineup. Again, why is this model 2K more expensive than the 3712? The only difference with the previous model are the rounded sides. Does that make the watch 2k more expensive? You tell me. The other two versions, white and red gold, should have been fitted with a rubber band and not leather. Guys, the Nautty is a sports watch remember?!?

The 5800: The small model. Completely inconsequential, like all previous mid and small Nautiluses they will be the only ones that are stuck in the windows at your local jeweler. Plus it is almost the same price as the Jumbo. Yeah, like that is going to sell...

The 5980: The chrono. Very disappointed. A lesser version of the 5960. What they have not lessened is the price though. At a whopping 26,300 € this is no bargain. Without the Annual Calendar I don't think that this Nautty is worthy of the "59" in its number like the 5960 and 5970. The date at 3 o'clock brakes the harmony of the dial. The "mono-compax" disposition with a 30 minute hand instead of a 60 minutes makes it difficult and impractical to read. What I do like about this piece are the pushers, they disappear harmoniously in the case of the watch.

As a whole I believe that the change has been positive. Now, if it's Patek's goal to put the Nautilus in the limelight than there must be plenty of these available for Jewelers to offer to the public. Although, at these prices the Nautilus has lost some of its competitiveness if compared to its first rival, AP's Royal Oak. The 15202, 26120 and 25860. offer all similar functions yet are under Patek's prices. Up until now this was not the case.

Patek Philippe...

NAUTILUS "5980 Chrono"

Very disappointing. Nothing really new, expensive and not very pretty. This chrono is essentially a 5960 without the Annual Calendar. However, it's a Patek and it will sell. If it does not, then deliveries will be slowed in order to keep demand high (you know the drill). Desire is the name of the game.

For 26,300 € I would expect a little more. Like the Annual Calendar maybe?

Patek Philippe...

NAUTILUS "5711 Jumbo"

Thank you! The original Nautilus is back, and from the looks of it it's here to stay.

The original Jumbo had a water resistance of 120 meters. I hope that this one goes at least to 100...

Patek Philippe...

NAUTILUS "5712 Moon"

After the phenomenal success of the 3712 Patek have reissued it as the 5712. The only difference is the side hinges that have been redesigned like the other Nautiluses in the range. If you always wanted one here is your chance. If you planed to upgrade from the older 3712 I suggest you don't, the 3712 is a very rare piece and it will be even more expensive over time.

Patek Philippe...

MING "Full Fluid Drive"

Recently I came across this little beauty.

Take your time to read the whole thing. It sure sounds amazing. However, I think that we would have to wait a couple of decades before something like this could be manufactured.

Ming Thein...

UPDATE: Nautilus 30th Anniversary

100% confirmed. This will be the presented lineup for the 30th Anniversary Nautilus;

- The Jumbo with no power reserve and the same line pattern as the original.

- The 3712 will be called 5712 and will be exactly the same watch except for that minor rounding of the sides.

- The 5712 will be on leather in white and rose gold. The rose gold with a brownish face.

- The chrono (a mono-compax at 6 o'clock) is based on the 5960 but will not have the annual calendar function. It will have the date with a window at 3 o'clock though.

- All will have the classic Patek line pattern on the face (thanks for that!).

- The variation on the case will be minimal. Only the hinges that stick out a little are slightly rounded off. You will not be able to see the difference from three feet away.

Will have pictures on the 11th at 10 a.m. European time...

Patek Philippe...

TIFFANY "Oracle"

Very impressive.

However, I would pay good money to have that "T" removed. Truly a masterpiece, yet smudged by that unnecessary and tasteless final touch.

Imagine the Mona Lisa. Now imagine the Mona Lisa holding an ice cream cone. This is the same.

Tiffany & Co...


They deny everything. Wonder who started this "rumor"... hmmm.

Let's wait and see. I am certaian there is more to this than meets the eye.

Official Press Release...


Am not a quartz guy but this is an interesting watch to look into, especially if you are a diver. Unfortunately because it's filled with silicon oil it is impossible to have an automatic movement inside. The resistance of the silicon oil would not allow the weight of the movement to wind the watch properly. A manual could be an idea but I guess that there are several problems with that as well. This monster is rated at a depth over and beyond 12,000 meter. Yes, it goes deeper than any submarine (and most likely any living being on earth). Why need that sort of waterproofness you ask? Well, why do you own a car that goes faster than the legal speed limit? Same thing here. Because I could... if I would (not that I do, of course ;-D).

What I particularly like about this UX is that it does not have that annoying air bubble of similar models from other manufacturers. The added benefit of being much easier to read when under water (because of the oil inside the face) adds a certain "eeriness" to the watch, as if it was its natural habitat.


Stupid Little Things

Even though many manufacturers go about their daily business as if they float above us mortals, silly mistakes are a common thing. The same annoyances keep appearing over and over again. The problem lays in their inability and lack of communication with the "final customer" of their products. Authorized dealers are not good council, their main concern is making money (understandable). Big collectors are of no use either. Collectors can't wear the watch long enough to give useful feedback. The press is of no help either, they are concerned with publicity.

Here are three of the very annoying things that are continuously repeated:

Automatic 8-day power reserves: Why add redundant automatic winding? Why make the movement thicker and add more things that could brake or go wrong? Trust me, there is no need for your 8, 7 or 10 day power reserve to be automatic. If winding a watch once a week is too much for you... then you are not worth owning any watch at all.

Manual Perpetual Calendars: Perpetual Calendars are delicate and are sometimes a nightmare to set properly. They should be on winders (if not worn regularly) all the time so that you don't have to go through setting it over and over again. If it's a manual wind then you will have to be very careful not to forget to wind it almost everyday. A true nightmare (especially if your perpetual doesn't even have a power reserve).

Manual wind with screw-down crown: Screwing and unscrewing a crown on a daly basis will wear the screw of the crown, eventually it will brake. If you have to use the crown often, you DON'T want it to be screw-down. These crowns where initially meant to increase waterproof ratings on automatic diver's watches and have no business in manual wind watches. Over a period of one year you will have to screw and unscrew the crown about 200 times. Eight-day power reserves are more acceptable with a screw-down crown.

These are some of the very annoying things that manufacturers in general keep doing. Unfortunately they keep pooping up.

It would be more productive to talk more to end consumers and less to their usual sources of information. Manufacturers make the mistake of talking to their dealers, their dealer's best customers (sometimes) and the specialized press. What is wrong whit this picture? The dealers and owners of the businesses see only big dollar signs when you talk to them about the big brands. Plus, most of the sales staff is inadequate to handle high-end watches. Their contribution is limited to retransmitting information that can be reinterpreted. The authorized dealer's best customers that get invited to cocktails and visits to the factories have usually a big collection to begin with (or else they would not get invited in the first place). These customers usually don't test-drive the watches sufficiently since they rotate the watches in their collection quite a lot. As a result, asking about the performance of a watch that has had about a week of wrist time per year is futile to say the least. Last but not least, the press. You can't ask somebody about an honest opinion when they are dependent on YOU buying publicity in their magazine. Would you say to a potential buyer that his/her product is terrible and you just don't want to see this in next month's issue? I think not.

I know that having everybody telling you what to do is difficult but listening sometimes could make a great difference.