"Quo impuber pernocta excrementado alborea"...*

Good riddance! I for once, am very happy Audemars Piguet is no longer sponsoring this event (America's Cup). As they say; "It was fun at the beginning..." but exuberant costs and a notable hike in prices just made this sponsorship inviable. The "Alinghi" theme by AP was indeed beginning to smell rancid. Only the first "City of Sails" was really a Blockbuster, the carbon "Team Alinghi" piece did only barely alright while the "Polaris" and "Alinghi" really struggled to be sold.

Personally I am ecstatic that AP have decided to keep their money and hope (pretty-please...) that there are NO more sponsorships in the future of any mainstream/popular events. As I mentioned before, the Alinghi theme was starting to smell more and more like a fish market rather than an exclusive Yacht-Club. I see no reason why AP would need to sponsor events and spend money in publicity stunts instead of using it for investigation. AP have reached all the recognition possible amongst watch lovers/collectors/aficionados and have no capacity to increase production to become a more "commercial" brand in a short time frame. It should be obvious by now that AP have no need to join forces with anybody to sell their watches. The Barrichello II was a hit NOT because of Rubens' driving skills but rather because the watch is a great piece of kit. Let's face it, AP sells regardless and despite Rubens, Arnold, Jay-Z, Sachin, Alinghi, Maserati or any other matter. The market is, amongst the initiated, very well penetrated and since they are not in the position to manufacture and supply to the rest of the world, such expenditures are frivolous at best, especially in the current economic times. AP should shine through its own merits of excellence and not bet on the success of third parties.

Now, there is a negative side to this change of sponsorship. The obvious degrading of the Alinghi series. As mentioned before, some where not hot sellers and I suspect that the arrival of an Alinghi Hublot (soon I bet...) their value will be going down a couple of notches. Since the official announcement, I have received three mails of fellow collectors wanting to sell their Alinghis. Some even the first and most desirable out of the collection. It is ironic that companies that are so brand conscious as watch manufacturers would invest such amounts of money in other companies or ventures where they have no control over decisions. If they only had a bit of sense they would add a clause that would not allow the sponsored party to be sponsored by any competitor for a period of five (or even ten) years, should the sponsoring agreement in the future not be renewed. You might think that this is extreme but when you initially put 8 million Swiss francs (for hot air) and a commitment/relationship of almost a decade on the table to have your name on a small portion of the sail, I do think you are entitled to cover your butt.

Signing with Hublot seems to be almost a vengeance from Alinghi's leadership for AP not agreeing with the new fees for the next America's Cup. By the way, it appears that AP is not alone and other sponsors have already decided to leave the team. Apart from the cost, there was also a certain "unease" about the arrogance of Alinghi's management. I guess that in a world of ungrateful pricks such things are expected. By no means do I know the whole story, nor do I pretend to. Yet here are the facts: AP sponsored the first boat, the "Be HAPpy", a boat to take part in a competition that no European country had won in a century from the only european country with no access to the sea. It was disqualified for several technical reasons (also known as cheating). After this success they come back with the Alinghi and AP supports them yet again. They win and everything is a big success. So big in fact that suddenly there was hardly a boat without a watch manufacturer somewhere on the sails... Now, all of this seems to be forgotten and despite the economic crisis in the luxury sector there is a considerable hike in price to sponsor Alinghi for the 33rd America's Cup. There is no agreement and the result is that Hublot, known to cannibalize the OffShore not only in looks but in strategy, signs the deal. Well, if you had any doubts that Bertarelli is an asshole, now you know for sure.

The moral of the story; You just can't work with assholes... No mater how big and successful they are, eventually you will get shitted upon.

What happens now? Well I hope that dropping the sponsorship of sail related events does not mean that the "marine" inspired line will be discontinued by AP. A proper and new Carbon Sail watch could still be attractive to many. Hell, let's go nuts and make it a regular production model!

Official announcement...

P.s. I can't wait for the first guy to enter an AP Boutique and ask; "Excuse me, do you have one of those Alinghi Hublot for sale?..." Would love to see the sales staff response after the 12th time...

*Latin for; "Who sleeps with children awakes soiled..." In other words; choose your partners wisely.

URWERK "UR-CC1"

The "King Cobra" is finally here!


OK... I promise this is the last of the "ULTRA EXPENSIVE" pieces I will be commenting about for some time. This URWERK surely deserves more that just a few lines. Yes, after many months of expectation the latest wonder by URWERK does meet the expectations. As I have posted in the past, URWERK has succeeded with the King Cobra where Patek has failed. How many can say this? Very few...

This alternative means to display time is based on two rotating cylinders was indeed attempted by Patek 50 years ago. Whetter they managed it to work is not really certain since Albert's and Cottier's prototype is locked-up in the Patek museum in Geneva. By the way, what an ugly watch... In any case Patek either thought it was not economically plausible, not too Patek'ish... or just like me, they though it was NOT precisely the most attractive piece they ever made. The principle is inspired from Cadillac Cars from the 60's that had lateral speedometer displays. As the cylinders turn the hours and minutes progress displaying the correct time. It is a bit awkward at fist, as with all other URWERKs I guess, yet once you get the idea the time is quite easily readable. First the turning disks, than the rolling dice and now revolving cylinders. What's next? Quite frankly I have no idea. Every time I think that there are no more ways to display time somebody comes along and proves me wrong.

I was one of the few blessed to actually physically see and touch the functional prototype several months ago. I was smitten. The King Cobra is a big watch, but it wears surprisingly well. In any case I doubt that many will wear these since most are going to be kept in their owner's large vaults because they are going to be such a special piece. That is a pity since all the stuff from URWERK, even the most complicated, is actually meant to be used and enjoyed on a regular basis. Bare in mind that up until few years ago ultra-complicated watches where not really capable of working over extended periods of time. A brief interlude; Did you know that until the mid of las century less than 10% of the about 500 Tourbillon watches made actually worked?... Anyway, back to our mater at hand. The King Cobra is a very usable and wearable item and I sure hope to see it worn at least once, even if the odds to find one of 50 amongst 5 billion people is rather slim. Although, I must admit I have come across rarer watches in the past.


The CC1 will be executed 25 times in white and 25 (for 2010) in black. Knowing URWERK you can be sure this amount will be definitive. If you are amongst the lucky ones to have a healthy enough wallet to go after one of these, don't debate for too long. Rest assured that the King Cobra will be one of those watches that will have a preferential spot in the watch Elysium.

URWERK...

A. Lange & Söhne "ZEITWERK"

I can't disguise that I am very happy to see such a development coming from the house of Lange. Finally something REALLY new from the guys over in Dresden. Not only a way to get your hands on a clientele unknown to them so far but also to re-interest those that already share their philosophy. The new "Zeitwerk" is not just a Lange, it's a great Lange. What is very appreciated is that the Zeitwerk will be joining the catalogue as a regular production item and not a limited model. I can't stress enough the fact that ultra conservative manufacturers need sometimes to go crazy and come up with ideas that are revolutionary to their heritage. I guess the best example would be AP and their Royal Oak. Going "sport-steel" has opened a whole new and before unknown market for them (and others). Developments such as this can result in an interesting and profitable direction. New developments ensure the longevity of the brand. It is those that stay anchored in rancid principles of design and clinging to the past that are likely NOT to survive in more difficult times. The past should be regarded with respect but never as guide to fix one's goals for the future. A vintage edition might work a couple of times yet ultimately you will need to look in the future.

Could this be my first Lange? Quite possibly (however, my accountant (wife) might not entirely agree with the idea). This despite being the white gold version the most attractive to me and I just can't stand rhodium plated white gold... Even though I respect and appreciate practically all of Lange's work I never came across the right Lange for me. The "Datograph" is too thick and the proportions of the case seem just not right to me... The DoubleSplit's face is too boring, especially after somebody at the manufacture decided to remove the red in the power-reserve... The "Lange 1" has the hour and minutes hands on the wrong side of the dial... The "1815" is too small (although the latest one comes closer to being a candidate). The Turbograph is well out of my reach and so is the wonderful Richard Lange "Pour le Merite"... Well, there was always something in the way of adding something as wonderfully executed as a Lange. Until now.

With this DigiGraph... pardon me, Zeitwerk the story changes. It is different in every aspect as a Lange. Considering the complication, the high price seems well in the reasonable range. The Zeitwerk is different while remaining elegant and sporty at the same time. The movement is, as with all Langes, simply sublime. The beauty of the Zeitwerk's movement is probably only second to that of the DoubleSplit. Many might think that the 36 hour power reserve is a bit short. Don't be mistaken, a standard 42 hours power reserve is not much more useful since you still have to wind it every day (because it does not reach the full 48 hours/2 days). Because of the torque requirements needed to move and jump every minute the power reserve had to be shortened to maintain a level of accuracy acceptable to Lange. In any case, the Zeitwerk is equipped with a power-reserve indicator. So that resolves that point. Personally I am a huge fan of long power reserves but NEVER at the expense of accuracy.

On the negative part I still think that the germans get their proportions between thickness and wideness wrong. It is not so bad on the Zeitwerk yet a millimeter wider would have made the case more harmonious. The strap is also a bit thin at the case. The dial could have a bit more color but I guess sobriety was a must in this case like it is in all other Lange Watches.

My only worry is really the jumping minute mechanism. It's just a question of math. Take 60 and multiply by 24, then by 365. You will roughly end up with slightly more than 500,000 jumps a year. Imagine this in ten years? We are talking about close to 5 million jumps if you decide to wear it all the time! I can assure you that if it where any other manufacturer than Lange proposing this I would discard this watch for this reason alone. Yet, it is a Lange, and as far as I know they test their products for quite a long time before officially presenting. It is known in the sector that Lange's former CEO used to wear the prototypes on his wrist for a whole year before releasing it as a product. Fact or fiction, who knows? What I know is that Lange does give a sense of "safety" like a Mercedes. Both are a safe bet in all aspects...

A. Lange & Soehne...

HYBRIS MECHANICA

Jaeger leCoultre is one of those "Houses" that never cease to amaze me. After the last years almost supernatural development of until now unseen horological exploits there is still room for more. Jaeger, as I have mentioned many times in the past, absolutely rules the market in the midrange complication. You will NOT get movements of this variety and complexity at any other manufacturer. The AMVOX2, Scuadra GMT or even the Duometre are simply unthinkable at these prices under more "prestigious" brand names. There is no question in my mind that Jaeger is by a landslide the most honest manufacture out there. It is undoubtedly one of the more prestigious watch manufacturers of our times. Wether one might like them or not, one thing is certain... they are a great piece of machinery. Yet, it does not share the "glamour" or "bling-bling" that houses like Patek or AP have, but adepts are growing at a steady rate. The advantage of not being a fashion item is that in the long run you only depend on yourself and the customers you have convinced. Contrary to fashion victims there are very loyal and are likely to stick with you for a long time.

After the Triptyque and the GyroTourbillon Jaeger sets the bar to an even higher level. The "Hybris Mechanica" is a jaw dropper. Whether it is the MOST complicated watch to date is generally a difficult statement to back. Here, however, it is not difficult at all. At least you could put it up there in the glorious "top ten" of all time. Don't be confused, that top ten is a very difficult place to be. Patek's calibre 89 and Richard's RM008 are two that I dare put in this category together with the Hybris Mechanica. The other seven spots I let you decide...

Essentially the Hybris Mechanica is a Grande Sonnerie including a Westminster Carillon with four hammers that includes a jumping hour regulator and perpetual calendar as its main functions. Upsss... forgot the flying Tourbillon. Just like in the Duometre the power reserves of the "sonnerie" and watch are separate. A new development is the activation of the repeater by pressing the crown instead of pulling a lateral trigger. The whole lot will be delivered in a special safety vault over 2,000 pounds heavy including a Gyro and a Triptyque. There will be only 30 sets of these available. Instead of getting into too much mechanical and technical details, many of which are not too clear yet, I am posting some pictures for your enjoyment. I will try to get a full technical explanation/resume in English for you. Once I have it, I will post it...


Now, back to business. The price will obviously be completely out of this world and considering a purchase is wishful thinking for all but a few. So why should this watch be of any consequence if there are going to be so few of them and so expensive? Easy. Because like with car prototypes there are things developed on products such as this that might one day find themselves into more affordable watches. Here are some things that jump to my mind when I see the Hybris;

- The crown to activate the Sonnerie. Could this be a way to dispose of the lateral trigger and improve on waterproof ratings on repeaters? Despite new material and miracle rubber gaskets these triggers are a nightmare to adequately waterproof.

- The style and philosophy of the Duometre is patent with the Hybris. This hopefully means that the Duometre "project" is alive and will keep evolving. A great development for watch lovers.

- Jumping hours, retrogrades and regulators could be back at Jaeger. For us watch lovers it would be great to see this in the Duometre philosophy.

- The fact that Jaeger had the BALLS to go ahead with this project despite the current economic situation. Many big projects such as this where put on standby by most other big companies. AP was the other exception. I do not want to be mean but, what novelties did Patek present this year in terns of horological development? A no-show like most others...

- The most surprising and what probably will be eclipsed by the Hybris is the new adjustable "Ardillon" buckle. Wonderful! At last the problem has been tackled and from the looks of it resolved!!! Out of all three variants; the deployant buckle, the butterfly buckle (just like the deployant but with two hinges so the buckle remains in the middle) and the classic ardillon... I always liked the ardillon because it was secure, thiner than a deployant and more comfortable. Except for sports watches the classic ardillon is still the best solution to fasten you strap. One of the problems with classic ardillons occurs in summer with swelling wrists. Most people need to their strap to another hole during summer because of the heat making you wrist swell. This meant that you have to remove the watch, at the risk of dropping it, and set it to a different hole. This also takes a tole on the leather strap causing it to wear much more quickly. With this new ardillon the problem has been solved. You get the flexibility to adjust size for heat without removing the watch and keep the comfort or a traditional ardillon.


Believe it or not, out of all the novelties included in this new marvel this is without a doubt the first I would love to see in regular production models. Hell, the second they have matching metals of this new ardillon for my cases I am getting one for all of my Jaegers!

Jaeger leCoultre...

Another Retirement?

The Gondolo annual calendar in white gold has mysteriously disappeared from Patek Catalogues... Even if the reference 5135G is still to be seen on their web site, it smells like yet another unannounced retirement. Patek have been known in the past to surprise us with sudden drops of models from their lineup. What reason could have been behind this? Several come to mind;

- The white gold version was just not popular. Personally it was my favorite but I guess most people want to "show" their investment in a watch usually like it to be yellow or rose gold. Platinum people are above good and evil...
- The white gold version was just too similar in looks to the Platinum. This might have turned some Platinum people away from the Annual Gondolo. If it's too similar, it's just not right. Three small diamonds and a light gray circle are just not enough to make it worth the platinum premium price. Watch brands usually reserve the best looking faces for their most expensive models. The gray face is the best looking (IMO) and should have initially been reserved for the Platinum case. Since the white gold Gondolo was presented first, when they realized it was too late.
- The finally have seen the light and stopped production on al white gold "RODIUM TREATED" models! Well, that sounds more like wishful thinking...

In any case, retirement or not, I like Patek's retirement policy. It's just clean and to the point. Now you see it, now you don't. This sometimes causes the market to go a bit mental and the pieces have an immediate increase in value (like with the Nautilus 3712A).

As with most early retirements with Patek, information is scarce. Dealers give you different stories and the official channels are just too important to even consider talking to you. If anybody can confirm this it would be great if you could comment here.

Patek Philippe...

Old School

There is a wave of new-old classic watchmakers gaining in respect and acceptance amongst collectors. In the much appreciated classic style of the already highly revered Philippe Dufour or Kari Voutilainen, these "new-old" comers are much cheaper but still just as exclusive. Dornblüth, Mosser, Lang & Heyne, Montres Normandes, etc... are a few in this new classic wave, more concerned about doing the stuff that has been working fine until now, only better. The goal is not to waste any time trying to reinvent new ways to do what has been done for the better part of two centuries (and very successfully if you ask me). Using modern tools to reach unknown quality standards at unseen prices is just another way to interpret what modern watch making should be. The new school revolution is undoubtedly led by Richard Mille. His major contribution was to push the limits by including materials and advances that nobody has until recently dared to include in their watches. Who is right? Why not both? I guess this reminds me of the childish feud between those that swear their allegiance to the "Nouvelle Cuisine" or the classic no frills cooking. The T-bone steak versus the Fillet Mignon... personally, I like both. To me, this is a non-issue. I have no problem owning a Philippe Dufour or a Richard Mille. Both horological approaches are respectable and correct in my view. Just because one is right the other must not be necessarily wrong. Another thing is one's personal taste and choice.


It is more than likely that the current economic situation is somewhat responsible for a resurrection of this philosophy. Don't be mistaken, despite sales being back to figures 10 years ago, watches are still selling. However, buyers are still willing to pay big money for watches but more discreet things are in demand. Gold, diamonds and oversize chunky burgers are shoving the first signs of drops in sales. Even markets that were historically strong in the "bling" are starting to change their consumption habits. To be honest, discretion is not the only reason for this sudden drop in the yellow metal. One of the reasons behind this is that many that have been buying watches these last years have been mostly doing so to be seen with the watch. Completely the opposite of watch lovers, aficionados and collectors. Discretion was always a major concern for these buyers. Plus, if the shit hits the fan like it did... real collector still like watches. Granted, cheaper watches if your personal economy is hurt, but you are still in the market. It's like any other hobby that you are passionate about. If you have less money you are likely to just do it less and not completely stop. If on the other hand your purpose was to bee seen with a big shiny thing on your wrist that springs attention and admiration mostly with the wrong people, then you will have no problem in drastically cutting back on watch expenditures to zero.

The only and very unfortunate problem with small sale manufacturers is their poor or in some cases complete lack of proper pictures of their products. Selling their product becomes a difficult task if they don't even communicate on their strong point, like the movement finish. Quite a big handicap if your idea is to transmit emotion. As you can see from the pictures posted here, it's just not what it should be. Trust me, these are the handful of acceptable pictures. The others are well bellow even amateur photography standards. I understand that communication departments are expensive but there must be an effort made or else it will be very complicated to adequately reach customers. Pictures already have a hard time transmitting the full impact of most watches.

A word of advise; If you are interested in "old school" you should make the effort to see these pieces in the flesh. Believe me, they are worth a detour.

Philippe Dufour...
Kari Voutilainenr...
Dornbüth & Sohn...
H. Mosser...
Land & Heyne...
Montres Normandes...

DON RAMON event on the 20th of May...

As we are getting closer to the 20th, the official presentation of the "Don Ramon de la Cruz", there are several details that are unknown to most.

Those lucky enough to be "Don Ramon" owners will only need to show up at the airport on the day of the presentation to pickup their watch. This means that everything from thereon is organized by AP. Don Ramon owners will be invited to the limousine service, hotel, lunch, entertainment and dinner. The first wave of Don Ramon watches will all be delivered on the day of the presentation. NOT A SINGLE DON RAMON WILL BE DELIVERED BEFORE THIS DATE. There might be pieces still available because many have chosen special numbers. Many of the requested numbers might be delivered later. Those that chose a special number for their Don Ramon and will be delivered after the 20th are still invited to the presentation and following events. The schedule for the Don Ramon presentation is as follows;

2oth of May Pickup at the Madrid Airport and drop-off at the Villa Magna Hotel (***** GL)

14:00 - 20:30 Delivery of the Don Ramon watches to their owners
14:30 - 16:00 Presentation cocktail of the Don Ramon at the AP Boutique Madrid
16:00 - 17:30 Return to the Hotel to rest or go shopping
17:30 - 18:00 Meeting at the AP Boutique and brief presentation to "Bullfights"
18:00 - 18:30 Transfer from the AP Boutique to the Bullfighting arena "Las Ventas"
19:00 - 21:30 Bullfight (optional)
21:30 - 22:00 Transfer from the Bullfighting arena to the Hotel
22:00 - 01:00 Don Ramon dinner for owners and spouses/partners at the Hotel restaurant "Eneko" (one Michelin star)
01:00 After dinner drinks at the Hotel Bar...

It is impressive that AP would take care of their customers from arrival until departure of their customers. Spouses and partners are also invited even if they have not purchased the "Don Ramon Lady" model. The Bullfight might not be very politically correct yet I recommend that you go and see this if you have not. The Madrid arena of "Las Ventas" is considered the Mecca of bullfighting. This does not mean that the bullfight is going to be memorable, you never know...

There are 100 Offshores Gent and 50 Offshores Lady. Both are numbered and have a price of 36,000 Euros. The Gent and Lady Don Ramon will come with a rubber and hornback strap. Before delivery the owner can decide on the size of strap and if they choose their initials "hot-stamped" on the back of the crocodile hornback strap (pretty cool). The options are; small, medium or large. There are no discounts and they do not ship any watches overseas.

If anybody is interested you can contact the Madrid Boutique at +34 91-781-8060. All employees at the Madrid Boutique speak fluent english. Their opening hours are 10:00 to 14:30 and 17:00 to 20:30, Madrid/Paris time.

Audemars Piguet...

P.s. I should charge BIG bucks for this...

Ulysse Nardin "Chairman"

You would think it is a symptom when a watch manufacturer's main novelty at a fair is a mobile phone. If it is, then I am certain that it is not a good one. When Ulysse Nardin presented the "Chairman" I was sort of surprised to see then embark on this route. Actually, the last watch manufacturer y expected to see in this battle. The design was interesting initially although after further inspection it turns out that the product is flawed in many, many ways.

The first flaw is what in a way makes it special. The kinetic rotor. For one I do not think that this would be an adequate power source for a mobile phone. There is no way that a mobile phone gets the activity that your wrist does. Inside your pocket or on a table the rotor is completely redundant. Hence, if you wish to charge it by means of the rotor you will end up embarking on a rather "obscene" workout. Quite stupid for a phone that will most likely be priced in the absurd range. So, the result is that you paid a whole lot of money to look like a fool once your battery is down... I wonder how this would look in a bar when you are trying to pickup a girl and she has a friend. You need to call your buddy to team up for the kill... It's 2 o'clock in the morning... your battery is almost dead... will you go to the bathroom to give it a good, jerk? I guess I have no need to go any further.


The second flaw is the software. Support will be highly doubtful. Believe me, if they say otherwise they are lying! Software support was less than satisfactory when Vertu first started and they had Nokia behind them. It is a fact that all smartphone software is still crapy and buggy unless you are an iPhone. Lest face it, if you want a smart phone you would go with and iPhone or a Blackberry. If you want a good looking high-end phone you want a Vertu with a straightforward, clean, not-so-buggy Symbian 40 software.

The third and fatal flaw is its size. It just HUMONGOUS! Way larger than an iPhone, any Blackberry, all HTCs and even Sony-Ericsson's P1. Hell, it's practically the size of a PSP!!! In these days you really have to be a whole new level of retarded to come up with something like this and think it will sell. Believe me, in the mobile phone business the LAST thing you want to do is go Panerai!

The design on the other hand is a matter of personal taste. Personally, the more I look at it, the less I like it.

Ulysse Nardin...

Seamaster "Ploprof 1200M"

The second surprise from Omega at Base. The Ploprof 1200M. Not a very sexy name but the reborn replica is a very attractive watch indeed. The 70's DNA is unmistakable although I would go with anything except that "Milanese" bracelet that apart from not being very becoming it looks more lake a great way to shave your wrist. Hairy dudes be careful!

Unlike the mythical Ploprof from the begging of the 70's this one has doubled its performance from 600 meters to 1,200 meters. Useful? Not really, but what the hell! Why not? Even if wristwatches are not as important for diving today, because they have been replaced by Suntoo or Aladdin diving computers. The Ploprof 1200M is truly a "real" no bullshit diver. Everything is where it should be. Straight to the point with no time wasted on secondary gimmicks.

Unfortunately there is a "but". The price. At around 5,000 Euros (about 6,500 dollars) it is a bit steep for a simple diver that does nothing but go deep. For much less you get you hands on SINN's U2 and that will do the same (actually a little more...) for almost a third of the money. Granted, it is not as sexy as this re-issued vintage yet right now the SINN U2 is still the top in the diver range.

Omega...

Speedmaster "Apollo 11"

First, I would like to apologize for the long silence but I have been very busy. I am going to resume posting stuff here and attempt to catchup with all the stuff from Basel this year. I hope to be back on track with everything in the next two weeks.

I have always been a fan of the Speedmaster. Historical, mythical, straight to the point and within a reasonable price range. You just can't go wrong even if lately the Swatch Group have been working on this not being true anymore. The "Apollo 11" I must admit I was impressed with at the Basel show.

I was not able to see it in the flesh and look at the back (no time!) yet I like the logo of the Apollo 11 better than the other that have been part of the series. Actually the other are rather crappy decals. This one looks good, really good. Good enough for me to actually go to Omega and take a closer look.



Omega...

Don Ramon

The new "Don Ramon" is finally in the last stages of manufacturing and will be delivered end of April. UPDATE: The first batch will be delivered simultaneously to the first customers the same day as the official presentation. The event will take place May 20th at the AP Boutique in Madrid. Perhaps the most attractive feature of this piece is the Black Luminova on the hands and numbers. So that you get an idea of what this would look like, let me demonstrate...

LIGHTS ON:

LIGHTS OFF:

As you can see the effect is quite dramatic to say the least. I, for one, am not really a fan of oversized gold watches but this offshore looks more than just acceptable. Rose gold is better than yellow plus the black screws and dark tones of the face and strap become this piece quite well. Personally, I would like to change the strap for either that of a Barrichello II or even the one of the Survivor. Although the Hornback strap is of a less conspicuous design than a Volcano or Safari I think that it has been overdone a little. Many think that the Safari should be the only watch to have this strap. I think that they are right.

There are 100 available exclusively at the recently opened "Don Ramon de la Cruz" Boutique in Madrid. Other AP Boutiques around the world might have a limited number of these too. Boutiques trade pieces amongst each other to supply their local VIP customers with foreign "exotic" pieces so that there is no need to travel abroad.

It is custom for the AP Boutique in Madrid to arrange private transportation for all those that come for a watch. A car with a driver will be waiting for the customers to be picked up at the Madrid airport. Should the stay require to be overnight, then the hotel is arranged as well as the next day drop-off at the airport. Nice detail, especially if you don't know the place and have difficulty with the language. This "new" way to attend customers is part of this Boutique's new philosophy. The idea is to take the service to a whole new level. This goes further than only selling but first to give adequate service to customers.

P.s. By the way... it is not confirmed but it might be that all current/future owners of a Don Ramon will have the "preferential" right to have first pick at the next Don Ramon (if there should be one in the oven...). By preferential I mean that it will be presented first to all the Don Ramon owners, even before the press, so that they might have the possibility to choose numbers etc... Once the previous Don Ramon owners have decided if they choose to get the next watch the remains will be available for all the interested clients. This might sound harsh but it is a way not only to create a link between the customers and the Boutique but also a way to limit speculation. This is not confirmed though...

Audemars Piguet...

Porsche Design "P'6920"

I wonder... there is nothing really extraordinary about this Valjoux rattrapante, apart from sharing the only good looking "Porsche Design" design by Eterna. At what price will the P'6920 be presented at? Similar products range at around 5,000 € with the IWCs going close to the 12,000€ mark. What about this one?

This new rattrapante takes after the design of the unique Porsche "Indicator". (If you ask me, they should make them all in this design and drop the other crap.) This rattrapante is a very attractive watch. Unlike the Indicator it is of a more humane size. Its proportions are 45 mm wide and 15 mm thick. These proportions are very similar to an AP OffShore. The original Indicator was practically a burger, not by choice of design but because of the complexity of the movement. The chrono indications for minutes and hours are displayed by two rotating disk unlike the classic hands. Probably less efficient when needing a quick read but looks good to me. On the negative side; I would have killed that crummy date indicator at three o'clock, or at least have a date in a small window.

Commercially it is risky that Porsche Design would go ahead and do this piece disregarding the feelings of people that paid a whole lot for an Indicator. This is probably why I have the feeling it will not be cheap. Hence, in this economy, a total disaster. Piss-off their own customers and gain no new ones. Smart...

I guess that the success of this piece ultimately boils down to price. Most other Valjoux rattrapante sold are more prestigious in name (actually, all are!). Especially IWC. So, I would think that this P'6920 should be no more than 12,000€. Compensating for lack prestige is the design of the watch that makes it somewhat different to similar products. Personally I would think that 9,000€ would be a very competitive price and could actually turn this Porsche design to be a hit. Well, if they pretend to go after AP's OffShore market and place this at 15,000€... than it is obvious that there are some people at Eterna smoking the wrong kind of Ganja! But, If they are going to price this in the 19,000€ range than they are headed for a Zenith Defy Xtreme crash!!! Believe me, people are just not THAT retarded.

Porsche Design...

MB & F "HM2 Ceramic"

Almost forgot! I was finally face -to-face with the new HM2 in its ceramic variant. As expected, it's a great piece!

I must admit that I am a bit disconcerted. I am not really a big fan of "horizontal" watches yet the HM2 has me sold. Maybe because it is actually thin and perfect for a jacket or simply because it transgresses the classic boundaries of watch case designs. I don't know. The only thing I know is that the more I see it, the more I understand it. This coming from a guy that is more and attracted to boooring classical pieces. Weird.

I really think that the MB&F pieces are not marketed the proper way. There is no real sense of what the watch looks like on the wrist. It is imperative for them to have commercial wrist-shots. Professionally made pictures similar to the ones made by Dunhill when selling cufflinks. This would be the only way to really give an idea of size proportion and how well the pieces really sit on the wrist. I have already described the general feel of the watch on the wrist in a previous post (here...) yet unless people can really see the pieces there is little that can be done to convey the real fit of the pieces.

As I mentioned earlier, ceramic in this piece is definitely the way to go. It reduces the visual impact and adds a very welcomed scratch resistance. Perfect combination. Although it looks easy and straightforward to make, I held the ceramic plate in my hand and my first thought was; " this thing must have been a nightmare to machine..!" When asking Max about this he not only corroborated that but told me that for a short while it was uncertain that they could be made at all. Thank good for his persistence they will be made after all. Ufff... close call.

MB & F...

RM004v2: What legends are made of...

Regardless of what I think of the RM025 "hockey-puck" (sorry, couldn't help it...) there is one aspect here that I find particularly interesting. The removal of the "rattrapante" function from this variant of the RM008 calibre. Oddly, few have commented about that calibre modification and its commercial consequences. This is a very interesting development as far as I am concerned. Could it be that the RM008v2 and especially the RM004v2 are close to see their end? Will they be substituted by the same movement but without the ratrapante complication?

I am almost certain that the RM004v2 is far from being a profitable watch to Richard Mille. Most of the difficulty in this piece is due to the rattrapante complication. Believe me, despite the price, you are getting much more for your money than you are really paying for. When analyzing quantities that can be produced and difficulty in making, this watch should be up in the price range with a Tourbillon. Fortunately for all those who are lucky enough to have one the price is not in that range. (I guess it would be difficult to explain the Tourbillon price without the Tourbillon...) A while back, not having a RM004 would have meant that there was a substantial gap between the first prices (RM005) and the second prices (RM002). Without the RM004 the gap would have been of almost 200k. Don't get me wrong, the RM004 was never meant to be a "filler". It was in fact one of the first projects by RM. To completely design a new Chronograph from scratch posed an immense challenge. to this day I believe that it only saw the light because of political and not commercial reasons. Demand was brutal for the RM004 with 400 outstanding orders and a production limit of 15 to 25 pieces per year... you do the math. With the arrival of the RM011 it was foreseen that demand for the RM004 would calm down. Many that wanted a Richard Mille Chrono would turn for a RM011 instead. Unfortunately, or I should say fortunately, this was not the case. The RM011 went like hot cakes while the demand for the RM004 did not decrease. In fact it has become, despite criticism, a "grail" watch today more than ever. (Surprising, considering its price.) Although them both being chronos by RM (saving some distance...) they simply appeal to two completely different crowds. Hence, the supply/demand problem for the RM004 still persists. RM004s are, despite the crisis, still hard to come by.

With the new RM025 and the removal of the rattrapante complication this could change. I have always thought that the RM004v2 would not last. Manly because of the complexity of the manufacturing. The removal of the rattrapante complication could mean a way to cheapen the product for the customer, make it easier to manufacture and more viable for RM. Quite frankly, apart from the breathtaking beauty of a rattrapante movement what is it really good for? Could it be that many out there would trade that with a flyback, less complicated to manufacture, sturdier and 30k cheaper RM004 version? Or would you not? Could this mean that there could be a RM021,22 or 23 along that line? Hard to say but it would make sense. I am being a bit hypocritical here since I would go for the rattrapante hands down, yet I understand that others would rather have option "B".

Richard Mille...

Linde Werdelin "SpidoLite"

There sure is a lot of stuff going on at Linde Werdelin lately. Considered the ultimate gadget watch by many, Linde Werdelin is moving into a hole new league with their latest introductions. To be honest, it is hard to look away. The "Sea Instrument" is a great piece of kit and the new "Land Instrument" could leave electronics like the Suunto bitting the dust. Electronics-wise you could find similarities with B&O. Fantastic design, ease of use and functionality are key here. You will always have detractors saying that it is just too expensive and that you can get the same hardware at a lesser price. Yes, could be true, yet ironically all the stuff I own from B&O looks good still today. My twenty year old B&O music system still sits happily in the bedroom, with the consenting approval of my wife that is. Could you say the same about your twenty year old SONY?

Generally in the electronics segment these factors are often overlooked and users get rather complicated, under-designed and untested tools that are many times supplied with instructions booklets the size of telephone listings. When this happens it's simply because they cut the development and testing expenses. The less work they make at the final stage of the product, the more YOU need to work in order to operate the phone, camera, stereo, television, etc... With their two instruments LW have done much of that work for you already. Operating the instruments becomes child's play. Many people overlook the fact that it is the software and testing that take the longest. In some cases this is more expensive than the development of the hardware.

After the very welcomed "Black-DLC" there is a new LW. The "SpidoLite" is not only a new development but also different direction for LW. The open dial titanium SpidoLite is a show by itself, yet with a movement by Svend Andersen they are tackling a whole new kind of crowd. The selection of Svend Andersen for the movement of the SpydoLite is a bit awkward for most yet a very interesting choice. Probably more interesting than if it where any of the usual suspects like Valjoux, Unitas, Vaucher, GP, etc... This choice could actually work since most of us like contradictions. Like a classic independent watchmaker inside a modern sports watch for instance? The black-DLC SpidoLite with the yellow sapphire looks the part. I hope that on the final version it will be like the Milgauss where the green is only predominant on the edges of the sapphire crystal. Prices will be around the 8,000 € for the Svend Andersen version. I have no info on the others yet but expect them to be lower.

Linde Werdelin was a personal bet of mine and I am very happy with the way the company is facing the future. As a watch nut and electronics addict this certainly was a product made for me. With the latest development I can't but agree. The designs look great and give the LWs a new dimension. There are more news on the way to be presented this year. I can't wait to see these in Basel this year.

Linde Werdelin...

P.s. I would like to now what you guys think of these new pieces and LWs new strategy. Right, wrong? Positive and negative comments are welcomed...

URWERK "Tarantula"

Apart from the Cobra, the star at URWERK this year was the very anticipated "Tarantula". It was worth the wait. I don't cease to be amazed at the versatility of the 103. The options seem to be endless. The 103 is an incombustible machine. The Tarantula is stainless steel treated with AlTiN (Aluminium, Titanium, Nitride). This renders the Tarantula only second hardest after a diamond. The AlTiN finish gives it a mat shine that is different from their previous "BlackBird" versions that where blackened platinum. Both are unique and very different in feel and touch. The Tarantula is also considerably lighter than gold and platinum (obviously...) making it very comfortable to wear. The black effect makes it also look smaller, dramatically smaller than the precious metal versions. It feels like a sports watch despite it being initially a dress piece. In truth, it is so radically different from the classic 103s that getting a Tarantula, even if you already own a rose or white gold 103, does not pose any conflicts. Despite them being the same watch I would not be surprised if most buyers for this piece are already URWERK owners and have no plans to sell their current URWERKs (if they can afford to keep both that is...).

The new open top displays the function of the hour satellites to a maximum. Unlike the previous models the disks rotate several times before reaching the desired time. The classic 103s rotated the disks outside the field of view. The new frame on top of the satellites helps the owner to concentrate on the actual time. Understandable since with all in the top open it would be spectacular (especially at night) yet very confusing for a quick read. I initially feared that "because" of that frame the Luminova would not charge, yet this is unfounded. The Luminova charges to its fullest amount in 30 minutes with a normal light source and should last for over 48 hours. After one hour the intensity will have settled evenly amongst all Luminova indices. This means that after several hours into the night it will be of no consequence that all Luminova is charged or not at the same time. There is actually an upside to this new design. Luminova is perishable and the more you charge it the sooner it will loose performance and start to age. With this new frame you prevent unnecessary and prolonged exposure to direct sunlight.

Despite the Tarantula being one of my favorites this year I can't help but feel that it is time for the 103 to move on. It might be time to start setting the plans for a 104. Sometimes the best way to preserve the past is to look into the future. If there is interest to maintain the unique character on the 103 at a suitable heir would be needed. Too many versions end up confusing customers and stretching the possibilities of collectors. The Tarantula would be the perfect occasion for a transition to a new 100 series URWERK. There is no telling when and what is in URWERK's pipeline. What ever it is I have the feeling it will be more than just notable.

URWERK...

URWERK "Cobra"

Going to visit URWERK has become one of the highlights of every SIHH. I am still amazed that such a small watchmaker is capable of developing and presenting new things every year. While giants like Jaeger or AP have a wast amount of resources and brainpower, small manufacturers like URWERK that produce about of 200 units per year rely on the proficiency of their founders alone. It must be an incredible effort to be able to bewitch watch lovers year upon year. The new "Cobra" (that will officially be presented in April) simply bogles the mind. To think that this is based on a Prototype by one of the great Patek watch makers is simply extraordinary. When Luis Cottier (father of Patek's "World Time") made this piece, completely out of his traditional path of design, Patek simply was not up to the task nor had the guts to make these. In fact, it is not really clear if the original Cobra actually works. Cottier's Cobra landed in the Patek Philippe museum as an oddball. It is only now, over 50 later that Felix and Martin resuscitate the Cobra.

The idea is to use a linear indication of time with the means of two cylinders. both are placed in parallel and as the rotate they give a linear display of time. Graphically similar to the Cadillacs from the 60's but completely different in concept and in difficulty.

Even if they say that the Cobra is a titanic feat, I am not sure they are yet conscious of their extraordinary achievement. There is no doubt in my mind that Felix and Martin are going to be part of horological history in the future. With understandable doubts in the minds of collectors as to the longevity of brands during hard times such as these, I am certain that URWERK will not only prevail but grow. Martin is a design "monster" and Felix has his feet well planted on earth like few in this business.

In any case, I have seen the piece, there are two working and fully finished pieces and they are simply mind-boggling. Unfortunately it will be presented in April and until then there will be no more info... darn.

URWERK...

Jaeger leCoultre "Grande Reverso"

The other pleasant novelty of this years SIHH is the oversize and ultra-slim Reverso. I can't begin to tell you how happy I was when these where first rumored to be in the pipeline. At last I had the chance to see them in the flesh. Finally a Reverso that would fit a large size wrist! It was long overdue if you ask me. The mythical Reverso was shrinking these last years due to everything else around it growing. Despite the latest and larger Reversos, they where still not quite the proper size. Even the previous large 8-Day manuals where a tad too small. The introduced Squadra did not really fill that need either. It is a more sporty version of the Reverso but not really a classic Reverso. Now, these new resized pieces are another story. Simply perfect in size while remaining as thin as posible. Exceptionally elegant and refined despite the increase in size. Unlike others that get bigger and often loose in class, the new Reverso actually gains in that respect.

There are two models presented for now. A simple version with a sapphire back and a duo-face in black and white. Both are very aggressively priced with the base starting at slightly over 4,000 € and the duo-face under 7,000 €.

When I see these I can't help but dream for an 8-Day GMT or a Grande Sport Chrono in this large but slim Reverso case. If these work commercially expect more to come in the future.

Jaeger leCoultre...