THE WATCH ENTHUSIAST

At last the application that all watch lovers/aficionados/collectors have been waiting for! The Watch Enthusiast...


A non-commercial version of a watch guide has surely been long awaited by many. Apart from the ratings and opinions (to each their own...) the sheer amount of the watch database supplied here is simply staggering. The initial release has over 600 watch models (dials and metals only count as one watch), over 30 brands and an estimate of over 3,000 high-quality pictures. Every several weeks a dozen brands with their complete collections (provided they are above a score of 50) will be added from here until sumer to roughly end up with well over 1,500 watches and 150 brands. Since only watches that rate over 50 overall score will be featured, what ever is on this guide can be considered as an "over average" product. There will be an estimate of about 10,000 high-quiality pictures in total considering different dial colors and case metals. All these watches can be filtered by aproximate price, complication, ratings, etc... Nothing in the watch world of this magnitude has reached the iPad yet.


Initially "The Watch Enthusiast" was meant to be only a printed hardcover book/guide to be issued annually in the pure "Michelin" guide tradition. The first printed issue will appear next year as "TWE's 888" and will feature only the best 888 watches of the year. The iPad application was created in response to the potentially overwhelming database of watches that would or could not be featured in the printed version.


Ratings are passed by panelists that are "specialized" on several brands. These ratings before being published can be vetoed by other panelists and once published the brands have the possibility themselves to veto these ratings by presenting allegations if they so desire. The criteria are transparent and as objective as possible. The ratings are subject to change if need be, nothing is for ever. For instance if a relatively new movement has "youth" issues in a negative manner or in a positive manner if these issues are resolved over time.


The ratings and database will only be available through the iPap application (iPhone and Android are on its way...) and the printed annual guide.

iTunes store...
The Watch Enthusiast...

10-DAYS: HALDA "Space Discovery"

INTRODUCTION

UPDATE: As I suspected at the beginning (and subsequently confirmed by Mr. Sandström this morning) the movement is a caliber by A. Shield (originally AS 1920). It has been heavily improved and modified by Mr. Andersen as you will se in pictures that I will post in the coming days. This movement is the "father" for the High Beat movements as GP, Zenith El Primero and then also the one used in the Daytona. It is quite a watch "connoisseur" movement.

10-DAYS

Day 1: Quite impressive feel. I find myself thinking about the production nightmare it must be to make components, in this case the two modules, to fit so perfectly in the watch bracket. The finish of the case and integration of the module "eject" buttons in the bracket is phenomenal. Can't stop pushing the buttons... The space module looks great in the dark.


Day 2: Today is the turn of the mechanical module. My first impression is that it is much heavier on the wrist than the space module. Impeccable finish, built like a tank. The dial is elegant and offers very good visibility under any condition. Clean finish and a lot of depth perception with very large indexes. I am hypnotized by the elegant swaying of the seconds hand. I wish it were just a little bit longer in order to appreciate it even more.


Day 3: I have noticed that the Super LumiNova on the mechanical module shines in a bluish tone and not green. Visibility at night is very good with the LumiNova on hands and indices properly placed.


Day 4: I find myself wearing the mechanical module during the day time and the space module more at night. I am surprised since most of my focus initially was on the space module. The mechanical module turns out to be more attractive than I thought plus I have the confront of NOT having to press any buttons to read the time. Even if it is annoying to have to always press the buttons to see the time on the space module I doubt I would have it any other way. Performance wise, here they key is saving as much power as possible. Also, the full blackened screen does look very appealing...


Day 5: Already encountered the first "conceptual" problem. It is very difficult to alternate often between both modules and wear them on a day to day basis. The reason being that the mechanical module does not get enough winding if you switch often between both modules. The mechanical module stopped at 5:07 this morning. Right now, there is no viable way to wear both at the same time and keep the automatic module wound. Either choose the mechanical module often and the space module on occasions.



Day 6: I have had some time to play with the space module and the different functions. There is no doubt in my mind that this takes the X-33 concept several steps ahead. You can see from the functions that it was developed in close collaboration with somebody that "really" was going to use this for some really serious stuff. The timer function is my most used so far but my favorite is the countdown. A really cool function to set deadlines...


I am very surprised at the mechanical module. Maybe because I did not expect much of it simply because my focus was mainly on the space module. Who would have known...

Day 7: The alarm turns out to be quite loud when off the wrist. On the down side the sound is considerably muffled in contact with the wrist, as with all digital-alarm watches with the exception of the X-33 that has a double back casing. You will most likely not hear it on a busy street but probably under normal conditions. Omega's system allows for a VERY loud chime while having the watch on the wrist but has the disadvantage of accumulating dirt in the lateral openings as well as a quite bad water tightness rating for a sports activity watch.


Day 8: I don't think I have worn a digital watch for such long time since my first in the 80's... Hell, it is going to be hard moving to the next watch in a few days. Unbelievable.


IMPORTANT: If you are planning on wearing the watch primarily or initially on the Kevlar strap I firmly suggest that you have it fitted with the Velcro strap straight from the factory. It is not easy to put on the watch since you have little space between the leather and the watch case. The operation is not terribly difficult but requires some skill, especially if you do not want to scratch the inside or back of the watch case.

Day 9: Back to the mechanical module... Still intrigued about the upgrades and modifications made by Mr. Andersen. That deserves a future post with detailed explanations. Until then, some pictures...





Day 10: My Last day... nothing to report. Except that tomorrow I am ordering a couple more of these Kevlar/Velcro straps. They are fantastic and as with many things I would hate not to have a supply should these run out.



CONCLUSION:

The test has come to an end and my impression has been quite positive. There is some room for improvement in future models yet the "Space Discovery" is very, very impressive. Build quality is outstanding and unusual considering the price. The concept is innovative and fun (little of that in the watch world today under 10k...). The mechanical module reached much beyond my expectations and the space module gives a feeling of "high-end" unknown in a digital watch to date.
On the downside the visibility of the space module needs some tweaking (in broad daylight there are too many reflections) and the mechanical module is a bit heavy when on the Kevlar/Velcro strap. Personally I think that the steel bracelet is redundant and is penalized by an "average" deployment clasp. The bracelet needs to feel "tighter" and would benefit immensely from a micro-adjustable clasp.

The price is the real stunner here, especially after the latest hikes during the last 12 months. At 8,800€ it is much more than just competitive. When you look at the final result and take the price in consideration you can't but help feeling that you are getting a free ride somewhere in here. I guess that cutting two "middle" men has its advantages, not only cutting the final price but also controlling discounts. However, growth with this commercial strategy is immediate at first but limited at best in the long run. For now I can only congratulate HALDA for this first "journey" and can only hope that there will be many more to come.

CHECK LIST (mechanical module):

• Seconds-stop function: yes
• Date change: at 00:01
• Alignment of hands at 12 o'clock: perfect
• Readability/Visibility day: *****
• Readability/Visibility night: *****

White/Blue Super LumiNova

• Dial and hands finish: *****
• Visible movement finish: ***
• Watch case finish/construction: *****
• Bracelet: **
• Strap/Velcro: *****
• Deployment buckle: n/a
• Comfort: ****

• Price: *****

I have already reviewed the HALDA "Space Discovery" in a previous post. You can take a look at it further down.

HALDA...

NEW: 10-day test drive

At last I have decided to go video and start a 10-day test drive/assessment for watches. This new format will begin with a video introduction of the watch followed by a 10-day "test drive" and finished by the conclusions of the tested watch. I am not too keen on video, especially listening to myself. But then again, who does? (In the future there might be no audio comments at all, only subtitles. This will also considerably reduce the length of the video material) I guess that the format will need some tweaking so please bare with me.



This is how the test will develop initially;

Video:
- Introduction
- Packaging
- Functions

10-day test:
- Small, day to day comments on wearability and general use

Conclusion:
- Pictures
- Check list

I will not be checking for precision or mention possible defects. The reason being that, one example does not and should not be used to judge the whole series. For instance if the watch being currently tested has exceptional precision that should NOT mean that all do and vice-versa. This test in only based on a superficial day to day assessment of a product. Things that mater in this test are legibility. comfort, easy of use, visible finishes, proper alignment of the hands, etc...

In order to keep the format interesting I will try to mix the type of watch as much as possible. Some like sport watches while others prefer more classical dress watches. The watches chosen will be either uncommon, or recently introduced. There is no point in conducting such a test on a 10 year old Submariner.

All the watches are either owned by myself, somebody close, have been bought by "The Watch Enthusiast" or have been loaned by the brand to conduct this specific test. No presents are accepted and the critiques will NOT be censured.

Enjoy!

Jaeger leCoultre: SIHH 2011

As it is by now tradition, Jaeger at the SIHH, presents very interesting novelties in all their price ranges. Pretty much like in previous editions of the fair there was something for everybody this years too. Oddly, the presentation that did not shine as much (rather disappointed) was the somewhat "meager" offering at the Reverso Anniversary lineup. Don't get me wrong, the Tribute piece is a extraordinarily elegant an well balanced piece while the repeater is simply stunning... But what happened in between these two price points? I do not know about you, but I am missing quite a couple of complications in larger and thinner Reverso cases. (At first I thought they where where keeping them for last!) Regardless, let's get on with it.

A long awaited and eagerly anticipated by vintage aficionados was undoubtedly the "Deep Sea". As with the "Tribute to Polaris", the Deep Sea takes the replica motif to the extreme. Actually, you could say that they might have gone too far. As a collectors item it is surely meant to join the cabinet next to the Polaris. As a watch, I must say that considering the materials used, techniques and features I can only state that the price is well beyond what it should be. No date, a fixed painted bezel, polycarbonate glass, a somewhat skimpy 40mm (but true to the original) case construction and a purposely "muffled" sound to remain true to the replica. All that at a price of a whopping 9,500€. The truth is that the times have caught up with Jaeger on this one. They have not gone completely nuts since the price is somewhat coherent with the other Memovox lineup. What happened is that back when the Deep Sea was produced (not forgetting that since then Jaeger has evolved as a brand) the comparative price point at that time is closer to the equivalent of 3,000€ today, and not 9,000€. Hence there is a disparity in quality received for the money. Yet, for a collector the opportunity to have a brand new Deep Sea might/could be well worth the extra 6k. Both are limited; 959 for the world edition and 359 for the U.S./Boutique edition.

There will be two versions, the regular Limited Edition (up on top) and a U.S. version (down here) than can be purchased exclusively in the U.S. or boutiques around the world. Originally the Deep Sea was released in the US under the "leCoultre" brand since because of legal issues they could not use their full name and "Jaeger" had to be left out. Personally I choose the U.S. version. It just looks more "vintage" despite being busier on the dial. Even if the high price could be a deterrent (as well as being a bit small for a sports activity watch with 40mm) this one could be the a piece to consider.

As described before the "Tribute to Reverso" is quite a piece. Perfect size, impeccable proportions, elegant, well balanced, comfortable and above all iconic.

This Tribute will fit medium to large size wrists. The price is going to be just north of 5,000€ a bit steep but probably pre-adjusted for the several upcoming price hikes due to the Swiss Frank going through the roof and ever rising gold prices. That is a problem that those in EU countries will feel in their wallets in no time soon. Anyway, not much more can be said since seeing it in the flesh is well worth a little detour. As with most Reversos there are two versions, steel and rose gold. Rose gold limited to 500 units and mesmerizing enamel version limited to 100 pieces.

The crown jewel of this year is the Reverso repeater "a Rideao". What a stunner! Apart from doing away with that ugly classic repeater trigger this Reverso is actually smaller than the Gyro 2 or the Triptyque. Unfortunately, this Reverso was only to been seen as a prototype and god knows I am not for judging according to prototypes. What I can say is that the system to arm the repetition is quite more pleasant and less "fiddly" than the classic trigger. Finishes, as with all high-end pieces by Jaeger, will be beyond reproach. I will not give more details until I have a production model in my hands. Although I must admit that from a distance the piece looks very promising.


Apart from the stars the Ultra Thin Moon is also a piece to be taken into consideration, like the new Compressor ceramic chrono and the new version of the Navy Seals chrono. Unfortunately these pieces will be presented at a later stage and official pictures will not be released until then. I guess that leaving a little for later will keep the specialized press occupied. I see a strategy to present stuff in the end of March perhaps to steal some of the Basel World's show. The last five years at Jaeger have been at such a competitive push that once the pace has been normalized the presentation seemed a bit gray. However, it is simply impossible to sustain such a level of developments for that many years. Sooner or later that could be the very reason of your downfall. Consolidating and reducing the number of models should be a primary concern in these days especially for manufactures with over 1100 different references in their catalogue.

URWERK "UR-110"

This is the first departure from the 103 series. The long awaited bridge between the 103 and the 202 not only in price but in concepts as well. A bit awkward and aggressive at first but surprisingly comfortable and well balanced once you get closer to it. The new display orientation makes a whole of sense with a shirt on. Pretty much like MB & F "HM2" or F.P. Journe's philosophy where the time is displayed on the far right of the dial, the piece that usually happens to stick out. A surprisingly confortable and convenient wear.


The depth and three dimensional aspect of the dial is accentuated by the silver finish of this piece. Unlike the black URWERKs the details of the finishes are much more present here. The bottom of the display has the 5 year service meter, a day night indicator and what is (except for the CC1) the fists time a regular production URWERK has a seconds hand. The rear has the two turbines that dampen an excessive speed of the rotor but with no possibility to adjust the speed of rotation. The function of these two turbines is more that one of protecting the movement from damage rather than controlling the winding as it does on the UR-202. The construction of the case is no picnic either. The finishes and details go beyond most watch cases to date. The angles and crevasses are machined to perfection, almost too clinical. The crown with a built in lever is exceptionally easy to operate. As with all URWERKs it is real treat to set the time since the smoothness of the crown is one of Felix's secret emphasis. To tell you the truth I suspect that this is a detail that most watch lovers secretly enjoy.



The way the time is displayed is a hybrid method between the classic satellite of the 103 and the flipping dice of the 200 series. Since a picture is worth a thousand words, I take it that a movie is worth a thousand pictures... so in that spirit I have uploaded this little video for you. Enjoy!



As much as I have mixed feelings, I am certain that in no time this could very well be one of, if not the most popular URWERK to date. I must admit that after wearing the 110 and putting my beloved 103.05 back on felt... a bit "blend". Once most 103 fans get used to the more aggressive, more important, modern lines of the UR-110 it will be a reference for future models. Expect a black version soon and variants. Black will make it more mysterious but you will loose the depth of the the silver finish. Since there will be only 55 of these made I suggest haste when going to your dealer. The price is not fixed yet but it will be positioned at around 85,000$ which is between the 103 and 202. Considering the case, movement, complexity, functions (especially the very appreciated 5-year service indicator) I would consider this one very closely. I put this one amongst the best 3 of this year's Geneva fair.

URWERK...

SIHH-GTE 2011

This year has been relatively short at the SIHH for me. Hectic and with a cold it was not easy yet the whole visit could be described as; "short but sweet". The general feel was a bit "grayish" in general with much less ostentatious pieces as well as trumpets announcing "the" watch of the century... Things have been much more down to earth than previous years much to the disappointment of news-hungry watch enthusiasts. To be honest, I think it is for the better. Most presented pretty much that which was expected; A larger Offshore from AP (plus a horrendous oversized contraption), another replica by Jaeger, another Zeitwerk by Lange, a couple of potential collectors pieces by Panerai and a very surprising "dee-blinging" by Roger Dubuis. The later was probably the most interesting development.

After the monotony of the SIHH you could say that the GTE was "almost" more interesting than the SIHH this year. Where it not for a few stunningly tasteless contraptions, one could even say that the GTE was a better show. Ressence and Speake-Marin where undoubtedly some of the few worth stopping and taking a look at and there was one that I thought completely through me off... HD3's "Slide" was certainly an unconventional solution amongst what is considered "Haute Horologerie". But guess what? I actually liked it! As a tecy and gadget lover that is...

Anyway, during these next days I will be bloging the most interesting pieces one by one. Stay tuned.

A. Favre & Fils "Phoenix 10.1"

Here is an interesting development, A. Favre & Fils have just jumped the scene with the "Phoenix 10.1 and the 10.2. What?!? You have never heard of them? Well, neither have I. Despite the need to legitimate a brand by pasting together several generations of completely unknown watchmakers, the product in itself is quite noteworthy. Unlike many, for me the past only counts as a memory. If the present does not cut it the past will not take you very far in my book. A. Lange is a perfect example of a newly founded modern manufacture that are obsessed with reconstructing their past. Surprisingly, while they have all the recognition from watch enthusiasts around the world, the are still going out of their way to dig in a past to find a legitimacy. A legitimacy that everybody agrees they have forged themselves through hard work since their re-birth. What is most ironic is that the "old" A. Lange was not even close to the level that the "new" A. Lange is in the watch industry today. Anyway, back to the product at hand...

While the front/face needs some work, I must confess that I am quite taken by the back. Very impressive. From the pictures presented we have quite a calibre here. The two barrels at 28,800 alternations could deliver a 5-day power reserve yet it has been cut down to slightly over three, to ensure a linear torque delivery over these 80+ hours. The right move I believe. More than average run'o the mill finishes and a very pleasant architecture. The twin barrels in the rear (that remind me of Jaeger's Duometre or some of the latest A. Lange models) make the behind of this piece very, very sexy. As with all watches I have not held in my hand, my valuation is only based upon what I see. What I see here I like. If I have the chance to see the Phoenix 10.1 at the next Geneva show I will be posting a complete report. This one has certainly awoken my interest.

At the first glance, the rear is stunningly exquisite. I must say that I am sold. Especially the rear power reserve that I am particularly fond of, is very well integrated in the rear. The engravings on the edges are properly placed and well balanced. The case and crown are classic but different enough to not resemble anything else and give a sense of identity. The proportions are well balanced at 41mm wide and 11mm thick yet one millimeter less on the thickness and possibly one millimeter wider would have probably give it a more streamlined/elegant impression.

The face here is where I think that there should be more work done. For some reason it just does not work for me. It is just too blend and the open windows for the date are a bit difficult. On top of that, the circular brushed flat face with very simple indices reminds me of a desk clock that belongs in an office of the early 70's. The hour and minute hands I like but the central second seems a bit in the way. I understand that most people like to have large second hands, but on a watch of this magnitude it should be either non-obtrusive, as a small seconds on the side or simply not present.

All that said, the idea of this date display is not completely wrong and as a new way to tell the day it is very welcome. However, I feel that for it to work it should be taken "several" steps further, either much more aggressive or much more classical. Staying in-between will yield a blend result similar to the look of the latest "Maurice Lacroix" lineup. Since I suspect that the price tag will be "slightly" above those, there might be a problem in passing the message of this rather striking piece. The back and front at this moment do not transmit the same message. In a way it has the very same shortcomings as the H. Moser. For those that such as myself love beautiful movements over everything, I would like to remind you that 99.99% of the time what you see is the front. Watchmakers tend to forget that sometimes. If you neglect that... Houston, we have a problem.

What is quite odd is that their site is quite pleasant and well conceived. Very unusual for the industry. Actually, I just had to go through Roger DuBuis' site and I am still feeling sick. Their site feels like taking LSD while sitting in a roller coaster next to a hairy Bulgarian drag queen performing a Brazilian bikini wax. Very unsettling. On the other hand the A. Favre & Fils site is worth a little detour. Enjoy.


A. Favre & Fils...

At last!

Let me tell you, it was about time. Soooo many years talking about the singularity of the Speedmaster saga (unfortunately more the past and less the future...) and not owning a Speedy has been going on for too long. No more excuses, I have finally remedied that shortcoming and re-inserted a Speedmaster in my collection with an "Apollo XI".


I almost forgot how elegant this watch is. A real classic that thanks to fait is still around (not reeeealy like the original but close enough). I guess a little is better than nothing. A very refreshing watch. No nonsense, no crap, just a classic manual chrono. It feels like being barefoot on the beach. Simple.


I regret having sold several of these in the past to be honest and a version with the sapphire back and front could be a great everyday watch. Looking at the insane escalation in prices for these last months these Speedmasters are almost a bargain together with another classic, the Submariner (no date) by Rolex.


Omega...

10 DAYS!

Many times I have thought about my dependance on watches and if it is really true that in "theory" we do not need watches on our wrist today. These doubts came about at a friendly dinner when while discussing our favorite subject, horology, one of the gentleman made us aware that most of the times we, watch nuts, looked at the watch yet did not read the time. Hmmm, interesting and probably true. It is true that in current times there are watches everywhere; on your computer, in your car, your mobile, the street, friends... hell, my oven has a clock! On top of that most of these are adjusted to the atomic time. They are readily available everywhere and are likely to be more precise than even the Tourbillon you might have on your wrist. In theory we would not need to wear any watches at all... well, in theory that is. I went on to trying a small experiment. 10 days without a watch. Here is how it went;

Day 1: I am surprised I started this foolish tests at all. I have checked my empty wrist once but no major nuisance in not wearing a watch.

Day 2: I am sort of relieved not to wear a watch since I have been doing some mowing around the house and it is very likely I would have scratched it numerous times. Mind you, it is Sunday and I am not really in need to know the time at all.

Day 3: Out in the real world... No big deal, but I am starting to get annoyed at having to take out my phone all the time to check the time.

Day 4: I am mostly in front of the computer today and the time is in the upper right corner. No problems but I keep glancing at my naked wrist from time to time. I am starting to experience a "light" withdrawal syndrome.

Day 5: Taking out my phone out of my pocket to check the time is really stating to get on my nerves. In my head I am starting to think that 5 days is enough and maybe I could strap my URWERK (man it looks good!) back on again... NO, I am going through with this until the end!

Day 6: I am wondering if just putting the Linde Werdelin instrument counts as a watch. What about just keeping it in the pocket? No, no cheating...

Day 7: The physical urge of wearing a watch on my wrist has been overcome, BUT because I hate to pull out my phone to see the time I find myself asking my wife for the time ALL the time.

Day 8: My wife is really annoyed at me asking for the time ALL the time. Don't blame her, I am annoyed to ask ALL the time but it beats taking out the phone.

Day 9: I have stopped asking my wife for the time. At this point I fear for my physical well being should I ask her once more. I am back to taking out my phone...

Day 10: My god, I can't wait it to be over. Now, who will be first...

It is clear that after this little test I not only look at watches for the sheer pleasure of looking at them. Granted, many times I do, and I guess so do you. The thing that struck me most is that nobody, I mean NOBODY, asked me in 10 days why I was not wearing a watch. This is particularly relevant since most people go out of their way to see what I am wearing on my wrist. Not that I consider myself that important, but rather I have "peculiar" or "unique" watches that on occasions digress from the more "classic" or standard view.

Anyway, I have sacrificed myself so many of you don't have to. If you have doubts or had them, here is my experience and conclusion. Watches are a part of our lives today more than ever. They not only say something about you and set you apart but they are helpful so as not to loose track in a world where every second counts. Enjoy them, they deserve it!

L.U.C. Tech Twist "CronotempVs I"

A rather mysterious/unknown piece, the "CronotemVs I" has just been delivered to the initial founding members of a private watch collectors club. A sporty interpretation of Chopard's L.U.C. Tech Twist for a private watch collectors club. The first L.U.C. watch with a DLC watch case. The movement is rhodium plated in black with yellow writing to match the indices and yellow Luminova.


Marrying a traditional or classical watch with a more modern sporty look was a bargain but it turns out to work rather well.


CronotempVs is a private watch collectors club that started in Spain yet has since its birth last year several foreign members as well. In order to be accepted you must have a godfather and a board will vote your adherence to the club. Should one not have any access to a member of the club to be introduced there is always the option to prove that you could be a valuable member of this organization either by contributing in knowledge or simply passion for horology. A letter introducing oneself to the organization directly is the first step...


CronotempVs ordered 20 of these to celebrate their first anniversary. Subsequently there will be one watch ordered per year. What will be the next piece is as of now unknown but it will be, like this one, a piece to be remembered.


Chopard...
CronotempVs...

RESSENCE "Zero Series"

At last! One of the few interesting novelties of this year's Basel World 2010 is really coming to life. I was hoping that the Ressence "Zero Series" by Benoît Mintiens becomes fact and not fiction. I must say that I was very impressed when I first saw the prototypes. A new idea in difficult times is definitely worth some attention.

Physically the watch is very well balanced and all the details look quite stunning, especially for a proto. The top and bottom sapphire glass make it a very, dare I say it... sexy watch. (Don't forget that due to this peculiar use of the sapphire glass covering most of the surface of the watch you will have very little scratches on the case). It is extremely pleasant to the touch with almost an eery feeling of "Feng Shui". Holding it almost feels like entering a Japanese Zen Garden. Despite its initially complex design the Ressence is as harmonious as a classic hour-minute dress watch.


The face is flat with all information on the same level front is a regulator with seconds and day night indicator. The back has the same front sapphire glass but shows a rotating disk instead of the classic rotor. The face that incidentally displays everything on the same plane is composed of a main rotating disk for the minutes and three smaller disks inside for the hours, seconds and day/night indicator. A bit tricky at first but it does not take long to get used to. Here is a demo... The crown has a safety in oder to prevent changing the time inadvertently.

All the details are phenomenal and although I have not been able to have a finished production model what I have seen so far was quite impressive. Compared to the original prototype the Zero Series is almost 1 millimeter thiner and the strap at the case is 22 millimeters. Both changes are extremely welcome since they are the only two things that I would have changed from the prototype. The only drawback is that the crown will be larger according to the specs. Although I hope the crown will be only "wider" but shorter since I found it a bit sticking out on the first test models. Perfection would have been this beauty to be manual wind, bliss would have been a seven day power reserve with indication.


I was very impressed with the first trials. This is generally rarely the case with prototypes that disappoint rather than enamor. As with everything this is only the beginning for Ressence and this new idea to tell time so expect there to be more to come after the "Zero Series". However, expect it to be more complex and probably more expensive. I do not have to remind many of you that URWERK's 101 and 102 was a steal at a similar price to this first Ressence (and never to be seen at this price again...).

Prices are excl. VAT and import duties for non-EU countries
For TYPE1001 & TYPE1004: 9950€
For TYPE1002 & TYPE1003: 11500€

Because the Zero Series is hand made there are some possibilities of customization. As with many things, there will be only 50 lucky owners with one of these in their collection.

RESSENCE...

THE HALDA CONCEPT

It is rare that I speak of quartz, let alone digital, watches here at all. Now, there are always exceptions and in order for them to be exceptions they would have to be well worth it. Like many of us in my age bracket (40's...) we do remember that our first love of watches where most likely a digital Casio or Seiko. A long time has passed since them and we have all changed quite a bit in our preferences. To the point of not only avoiding digital but rather shunning it altogether. The question is simple; is it our evolution into more refined/exclusive products or the simple lack of evolution of the digital in the luxury watch segment? I guess a bit of both. Myself, the only digital I wear sometimes, and quite enjoy from time to time, is Linde Werdelin's land instrument. However, it is an instrument and meant as addition to a watch. Surprisingly, being an addict to all thinks that have lights and go beep I have gone the mechanical way when it comes to watches.


It is only yesterday that by chance I came across a new project called HALDA . I must admit I was quite impressed. The HALDA looked like it could be the first Luxury Digital watch to date. A very gutsy move since it is difficult to make anybody, especially watch enthusiasts, spend that amount of money on electronics. VERTU has somewhat overcome that prejudice but still, it will be a difficult task considering the times. The idea is to use the strap as a docking mechanism that will accept not only the two current modules but subsequent modules with different functions and complications in the future. This modular concept might be interesting yet on the long run could limit the possibilities of HALDA to evolve inside this form.


I have not been able to see the HALDA in the flesh so my critique is only based on the product itself and the marketing strategy. Construction-vise I have owned a Sjöö Sandström CHRONOLINK since probably the creation of the company (I am not sure but it was back in 1997 when I got mine) And judging from the make and quality of this watch there should be no problems at all with this one either. The main figure behind this is Mikael Sandström. By the way, thanks for not calling this watch something as unpronounceable as ShjjooossSaaandeströööemm. What a nightmare!

The watch looks quite impressive from the renders. The functions are tuned to space missions and remind me of the functionality of Omega's now retired X-33. There is all sorts of features related to mission objectives like mission timers, countdowns, double timezone, alarms and a G-Force counter that will store the different accelerations in a memory bank. Not that many of us will be going into space anytime soon but I would love to sit in a roller coaster and test this. Another option would be as a copilot inside a Formula 1 car. (Although being Swedish I suspect that some will be tempted to test it during the running of the bulls in Pamplona. Swedes have a habit of getting caught by the bulls... alcohol, no sleep and a pissed-off bull result generally in a large amount of pain.) One of the most aesthetically appealing feature is the self adjusting backlight with an exterior sensor (if this sensor is coupled with the actual watch computer it could lead to some very interesting features). The sensor is located at 12 o'clock and will automatically adjust the intensity and even the color wavelength of the display. Very cool! My last surprise is that contrary to the X-33 or the Speedmaster the HALDA goes 100 meters deep. Which according to my scale it is well inside the casual swim or "poolproof" parameter. Which comes quite handy since it is much more likely to end up in a pool than in space.

The mechanical movement seems to be a bit left out compared to the impact of the space module. This module is no joke, a very desirable NOS Andersen tuned to operate at 36,000 bph. The design is clean and straight to the point although on the back the rotor is maybe too classic for this concept. I would also note that the mechanical module is only 50 meter waterproof. This creates a disparity between both modules and could lead to confusion by the owner. For some reason the mechanical module is 2 millimeters thiner than the space module. I am not certain if it would help, but making it the same thickness as the space module to make it waterproof to 100 meters. This would standardize not only the size but also the performance.

On the negative side; The proportions seem to be quite well balanced although the case "sounds" a bit thick at slightly over 17 millimeters for the space module. However, this could change when seen in the flesh. There are some features or indications that I am missing. Adding things such as an equation of time, sunrise and sunset or even a moonphase would greatly appreciated. The (now lost) nerdy hour chime would also make sense in a watch of these characteristics since it does help keep track of time. I was not too happy initially with the two years battery life yet in the end it is for the best since it forces the watch to go through service regularly for firmware updates and gasket changes to ensure the waterproof property of the watch. I am not particularly fond of the bracelet, especially the part of the clasp. Again, I generally dislike all bracelets except for the Submariner's and RoyalOak. From this view of the watch, the clasp does not look very "luxury" to me. Many times it happens that watch designers put so much emphasis on the design of the watch that details like the clasp are often left to chance. I hope there is a kevlar/velcro option that can be worn on the wrists without the space suit.


These first 128 pieces will be sold directly for the time being. The idea is to slowly setup a network of trusted distributors worldwide. The price is set to 8,800€ for the set with the two modules, the two straps, travel box and the instructions. Delivery is around 3 to 4 months from the initial order. I have not yet had the chance to get my hands on the HALDA for a definite critique but from what I see I must say I like the whole idea very much.

HALDA...