THE HALDA CONCEPT

It is rare that I speak of quartz, let alone digital, watches here at all. Now, there are always exceptions and in order for them to be exceptions they would have to be well worth it. Like many of us in my age bracket (40's...) we do remember that our first love of watches where most likely a digital Casio or Seiko. A long time has passed since them and we have all changed quite a bit in our preferences. To the point of not only avoiding digital but rather shunning it altogether. The question is simple; is it our evolution into more refined/exclusive products or the simple lack of evolution of the digital in the luxury watch segment? I guess a bit of both. Myself, the only digital I wear sometimes, and quite enjoy from time to time, is Linde Werdelin's land instrument. However, it is an instrument and meant as addition to a watch. Surprisingly, being an addict to all thinks that have lights and go beep I have gone the mechanical way when it comes to watches.


It is only yesterday that by chance I came across a new project called HALDA . I must admit I was quite impressed. The HALDA looked like it could be the first Luxury Digital watch to date. A very gutsy move since it is difficult to make anybody, especially watch enthusiasts, spend that amount of money on electronics. VERTU has somewhat overcome that prejudice but still, it will be a difficult task considering the times. The idea is to use the strap as a docking mechanism that will accept not only the two current modules but subsequent modules with different functions and complications in the future. This modular concept might be interesting yet on the long run could limit the possibilities of HALDA to evolve inside this form.


I have not been able to see the HALDA in the flesh so my critique is only based on the product itself and the marketing strategy. Construction-vise I have owned a Sjöö Sandström CHRONOLINK since probably the creation of the company (I am not sure but it was back in 1997 when I got mine) And judging from the make and quality of this watch there should be no problems at all with this one either. The main figure behind this is Mikael Sandström. By the way, thanks for not calling this watch something as unpronounceable as ShjjooossSaaandeströööemm. What a nightmare!

The watch looks quite impressive from the renders. The functions are tuned to space missions and remind me of the functionality of Omega's now retired X-33. There is all sorts of features related to mission objectives like mission timers, countdowns, double timezone, alarms and a G-Force counter that will store the different accelerations in a memory bank. Not that many of us will be going into space anytime soon but I would love to sit in a roller coaster and test this. Another option would be as a copilot inside a Formula 1 car. (Although being Swedish I suspect that some will be tempted to test it during the running of the bulls in Pamplona. Swedes have a habit of getting caught by the bulls... alcohol, no sleep and a pissed-off bull result generally in a large amount of pain.) One of the most aesthetically appealing feature is the self adjusting backlight with an exterior sensor (if this sensor is coupled with the actual watch computer it could lead to some very interesting features). The sensor is located at 12 o'clock and will automatically adjust the intensity and even the color wavelength of the display. Very cool! My last surprise is that contrary to the X-33 or the Speedmaster the HALDA goes 100 meters deep. Which according to my scale it is well inside the casual swim or "poolproof" parameter. Which comes quite handy since it is much more likely to end up in a pool than in space.

The mechanical movement seems to be a bit left out compared to the impact of the space module. This module is no joke, a very desirable NOS Andersen tuned to operate at 36,000 bph. The design is clean and straight to the point although on the back the rotor is maybe too classic for this concept. I would also note that the mechanical module is only 50 meter waterproof. This creates a disparity between both modules and could lead to confusion by the owner. For some reason the mechanical module is 2 millimeters thiner than the space module. I am not certain if it would help, but making it the same thickness as the space module to make it waterproof to 100 meters. This would standardize not only the size but also the performance.

On the negative side; The proportions seem to be quite well balanced although the case "sounds" a bit thick at slightly over 17 millimeters for the space module. However, this could change when seen in the flesh. There are some features or indications that I am missing. Adding things such as an equation of time, sunrise and sunset or even a moonphase would greatly appreciated. The (now lost) nerdy hour chime would also make sense in a watch of these characteristics since it does help keep track of time. I was not too happy initially with the two years battery life yet in the end it is for the best since it forces the watch to go through service regularly for firmware updates and gasket changes to ensure the waterproof property of the watch. I am not particularly fond of the bracelet, especially the part of the clasp. Again, I generally dislike all bracelets except for the Submariner's and RoyalOak. From this view of the watch, the clasp does not look very "luxury" to me. Many times it happens that watch designers put so much emphasis on the design of the watch that details like the clasp are often left to chance. I hope there is a kevlar/velcro option that can be worn on the wrists without the space suit.


These first 128 pieces will be sold directly for the time being. The idea is to slowly setup a network of trusted distributors worldwide. The price is set to 8,800€ for the set with the two modules, the two straps, travel box and the instructions. Delivery is around 3 to 4 months from the initial order. I have not yet had the chance to get my hands on the HALDA for a definite critique but from what I see I must say I like the whole idea very much.

HALDA...

RM027 "NADAL"

Awesome! Pictures at last of this little gem! Believe it or not, the watch weights without the strap just little over 13 grams. I held it in my hands during the Geneva show 2010 and it is just mind blowing. There is an unconfirmed rumor that say that Nadal actually has tested this watch during matches under one of his wristbands. Just like Massa wore his Turbillon during racing.


Great move to sign Nadal. Like Felipe he is a very nice and down to earth professional a real joy to have and work with. I rarely like it when brands put famous people under their banners but these two guys are a very good choice.

Richard Mille...

The last V8... I meant , AMVOX2!

Apparently the AMVOX2 will ceased to be produced, at least for the time being. Even if officially Jaeger do not discard to do "some" in the future, these will be for specific occasions and by special requests only. Great move if you ask me. It will help raise the appreciation of the AMVOX2 but also put it in a different, more exclusive spotlight. The AMVOX2 has so far always been produced in Limited Editions even if the number is close to a total of around 4,000 watches there are not many of each especially considering that there are about 1,000 Jaeger dealers around the world. Amanico of "thePuristsPro" has actually made a great chronological summary of the AMVOX2 line. Here...

Now, who/what is the last AMVOX2? Well, the code name is "DR5" or the (newly inaugurated) "Madrid Boutique". DR5 are simply the initials of the address (Don Ramon 5). There will be 25 pieces made and for now it looks like these are the final and last 25. Aesthetically it looks like a hybrid between the first PVD AMVOX2 and the DBS version with the seconds on a disk at 6 o'clock. Unlike all previous black AMVOX2 versions the trigger and crown in this version are also black PVD.


Together with this piece comes the exclusivity of the owner to have preferential rights to the next Madrid Boutique limited edition with the matching watch number. This preferential option is for the "owner" and not the "buyer" in order to avoid any type of speculation. Don't miss interpret this by thinking that owners will be penalized or punished for selling these pieces. This simply means that if you are a registered owner of this piece you will receive information and the chance to reserve the next LE before anybody else. This is a way to reward and give preferential treatment to collectors and give them the safety to NOT be always on the lookout.

Needless to say that those registered owners will also receive the Boutique VIP status. What is VIP status? Well, receiving pieces well before everybody, the possibility to reserve number if still available, visits to the manufacture, Jaeger Master Class courses, tickets to events sponsored by Jaeger, etc... I guess buying from a Jaeger leCoultre Boutique has its perks.

The price is 13,500€ and the discount is strictly (and most unfortunately) ZERO. Orders and reservations will be accepted starting April 5th. If you are interested here are the details;

eMail: Boutique.Madrid@jaeger-lecoultre.com
Tel.: +34 91-781-9600 (English spoken)
Address: Don Ramon de la Cruz 5, 28001 MADRID

Jaeger leCoultre...

BASEL WORLD 2010

Basel was incredibly uneventful this year, the Tourbillon is no longer the star of the show (thank god for that...) and the big boys are making the effort in making cheaper/more affordable watches. sad, because from the looks of it they seem to have forgotten how to do that. One or two "cheaper" models are not going to help any brand out of a slump. It might help set the normalization but ultimately if the eyes are not set on the near future such moves are basically inconsequential.

Surprisingly there is no need for me to make a list of the worst of the Basel Show this year. Since most brands have dropped the fanfare and bull-crap for logical reasons. As with everything there is always one that shits beside the pot. Patek, who else? They deserve a separate and more in-depth analysis.

Things in the watch world are back to normal; competitors hating and bashing each other's products, ultra expensive pieces are having a lot of trouble selling, collector and watch lovers are back in vogue, no more expensive opulent parties, Rolex presents basically nothing new, Omega presents its annual edition of the Speedmaster, ... the watch world is back to its origins.

There are few things that I can really say that where memorable this year. I can sum them up in a few instances; URWERK retires the 103 with two great pieces, Speake-Marin has had a considerable jump in quality (and price) since I last saw his work, The new Tudor Montecarlo remake (not kidding...) is probably my favorite of the show, L.U.C. still amaze me with four completely new movements amongst them a proper Tourbillon for 53,000 Euros... and there is a new kid in watchtown called Benoit (but more on him later).


All in all, with less shown Basel was probably more pleasant than previous years. I only spent two days this year due to other engagements so unlike other years I had no chance see everything. Even if I surely missed something the general feel was of acceptance that the golden age is over and it is time to go back to normality. At last.

Extreme Lab 2

There is no doubt in mind that these years star of the show is Jaeger's "Extreme Lab 2". Not only for the complications at what I consider to be a more than very competitive price but because it might be the begging of a completely new direction for Jaeger. There has been a lot of critique on this piece, in favor and against. This leeds me to believe that it will indeed be a hot seller. When you have such opposite feelings regarding a product it is generally a sign of success. Indifference would be the worst possible scenario.

For 39,000€ you get a radial power reserve indicator, digital minutes 24-hour chrono, date, GMT, function selector, antimagnetic mechanism, reset to zero seconds, ceramic bezel, TiVan 15 case, fine adjustable buckle and a watch that is made out of over 500 parts! There is no argument with me that 39k is a lot of money, yet considering what you get here is a bargain! I asked several aficionados/collectors to quote me a price after they have been presented the piece at the Jaeger stand and no one was below 200k! I will not want to make too much predictions here but at this price and only 300 pieces in titanium and 200 in rose gold, they might be difficult to source. All really depends if Jaeger is able to breach the "glamour barrier" since a watch at this price point is subject to more superficial valuations rather than complications or performance. AP is the perfect example for a brand that has successfully breached the "glamour barrier" for expensive watches with little complications inside. Needless to say that this could eventually backfire if you expect this to go on for ever. I hope that Jaeger will not increase quantities for this watch despite having three times the demand.


The Extreme Lab 2 is based or rather takes several aesthetic and mechanical details from the first Extreme Lab. At 46mm it is quite an increase in size and most Jaeger customers might feel a bit overwhelmed with its size. Thankfully there are two things that make this actually a very pleasant watch to wear despite the size. One is the strap ball-bearing mechanism inherited from the Extreme Lab 1 and the other is the curvature of the case bottom. Not only that but the ardillon buckle is adjustable to ensure a perfect fit, even if your ideal size is between two holes on the strap (usually ALWAYS the case...). This makes the Extreme LAb 2 one of, if not the most comfortable watch I have ever worn.


The watch has only one handicap. It looks much better on the wrist than off the wrist. Similar to AP's "Survivor" it is a watch that kicks you in the head once on your wrist. There are some minor changes that could, and should, take place before reaching final stage of production. Some change in the Luminova and a more logically color-coded power reserve indicator should be some. Right now the time is unreadable at night despite having quite thick hands and indices. The problem lies with the tip of the minutes that coincides with the indices. At night this tip disappears when in front of any of the indices making the hours and minutes almost indistinguishable. The power reserve in white and red is simply not clear enough. The combination should be white and black or red and black.

Despite some minor logical flaws I can't wait to get the hands on mine. Unfortunately I will have to wait until November according to Jaeger. However, knowing Jaeger's history in being a couple of months behind when it comes to new models, you can be sure that the is NO WAY IN HELL that any of these will be delivered by then. In fact, I am going to bet with my official importer here that if I where to receive mine by... let's say the last day of November, I will shave my head. Trust me, the chances for me to do that a very, very slim...

Jaeger leCoultre...

De Bethune

A pleasant surprise. My first official contact to see De Bethune in the flesh. As far as I can remember the thing that kept me away from De Bethune was its funky moon-phase. Well, I still cant stand that revolving ball that just does not look right inside the dial of a watch. It might be a great technical feat, yet to me it's just... I don't know, it simply doesn't work for me. It's distracting and even if it is more graphically accurate I just can't seem to get the idea as to why interpret this complication as a 3D object when in fact we see and perceive it a a 2D object due to the distance. Regardless of the fact that this type of moon-phase thickens the watch at least a couple of millimeters.

Technically the whole collection is impeccable. True that most are a bit too big for my taste. Also having too much "extras" on the outside of the case make the whole a bit distracting. A lot of swinging parts to adapt to the wrist and awkward crown placements make it sometimes scary, yet the finishes are simply beyond reproach. Interestingly, and this is a first, I was much more interested in some of the more affordable models that the important pieces. These are smaller, cleaner and with the same finishes as the rest of the collection but with less distracting stuff inside and around the watch. These two pieces have definitely caught my eye.

DB25: Make me think what would happen if a Richard Mille "Perini Navi" and Patek "Calatrava" had a love child. These type of marriages rarely are successful but in this case i think they both would be proud. The DB25 is simply striking in its elegance despite being a modern watch. The power reserve at 12 o'clock is non-intrusive on the dial yet very easy to read. Like with all the rest of the collection the finishes are impeccable and technically right up there with the best. The DB25 is rather expensive yet it is well placed in its price range.

My only regret are the skeletonized strap holders and blue watches generally look better with dark blue straps. Other than that the DB25 is a very well balanced piece. Great watch.

DB24: This is a much more sporty version and also much larger than the DB25 yet thankfully it remains relatively thin. The dial has no paint/enamel since that blue color is achieved through heat and finished by various polishing methods. Like Richard's RM010 you have three positions to adapt the speed of the winding rotor to your lifestyle. However, here you can actually set them yourself at anytime without having to open or send the watch for service.

The setting can be seen from the front of the watch as well as from the back. I would have done without the front display since both indications are redundant. One would have suffused and having it in the back only would make the dial a bit cleaner. The power reserve at 12 o'clock looks hot yet a bit hard to see and the hour hand is easily confused with the minute hand or even dial. It is a possible option for those that want something modern yet just don' like the RM's tonneau shape.

I still think that prices such as these are no longer justifiable through "exclusivity" alone. With De Bethune I get hight prices but also more than others if compared at the same price range. De Bethune is a niche, a complicated one at that but one that has been growing strong especially during this crisis. The question remains if they will manage to get on that boat. Personally, I hope so.

De Bethune...

IWC: SIHH 2010

I wasn't expecting much from IWC this year. To be honest the las years have been quite boring or simply horrifying with the new interpretation of the DaVinci, the ghastly vintage collection or the "Lego Diver" collection of last year. Nothing really that got me interested at least since the Ingenieur Ceramic. The Portuguese has never really clicked with me. That is until now... I always found it blend, boring and expensive. That and the feeling that IWC could go a bit further with the Portuguese. You know, that feeling that they just came up short in with some details.

Now looking at this years Portuguese collection I must say that I am pleasantly surprised. Everything seems to be where it should be and the collection seems to have been injected with that little extra that makes it worth a second look. Out of all of them one stands out above the rest. I was especially surprised by the Portuguese Manual ref. 5454. Hmmm... nice, very nice.

The proportions are very elegant being 44mm wide and 10mm thick even if it could have been just a tad smaller. The dial looks much more elaborate that the previous equivalents and there is nothing to complain about the finish. What is a hit is the price that will be close to the 6,000 € mark. This one goes definitely on this year's list for candidates to be purchased.

Ahhh, and I forgot the 8-day Automatic. A bit of a contradiction (8-day automatic movements) but a welcome addition to the Portuguese collection.


The DaVinci chrono in ceramic on the other hand, is serious shit gone wrong. It looks like nothing, says nothing and is just as bad as all other DaVinci models. Have a look for your self. No comment.


IWC...

Jaeger leCoultre: SIHH 2010

There are many very interesting pieces from Jaeger this year. Some where presented at the SIHH and some will be presented at a later date and I can't discus these yet. here are some of the highlights of Jaeger;

Extreme Lab 2: I was going to tell you later about my choice for the star of the 2010 SIHH but I can't hold it anymore. As far as I am concerned the Extreme Lab 2 takes that spot. I had three contenders in that cathegory; Lange's Zeitwerk, Richard Mille's RM027 and the Extreme. I will comment in a separate post later as to my reasons.


Master Grande Tradition:

I could have lived without that Tourbillon but what is really astonishing about this piece is the repeater volume. Simply astounding. I have not herd this decibel level from a pocket repeater ever, let alone from a wrist watch! This beast was very, I mean VERY loud in a padded room crowded with people at a distance of 5 meters!!! For a second I even thought there was a mic in the room. The trebuchet hammer system coupled with the one and a half time revolving gong spring simply blast anything I have ever heard before. Honestly, this beast was so loud I simply did not stop and look at any of the other complications! I would love to see a striped down version with this repeater system at a much lower cost. The first time I would consider a wrist repeater for myself.



Duometre Moon: The second watch in the Duometre collection that confirms that there will be a continued Duometre line. This makes me very happy. This is one of those "smart" products that have sprung out of this year's SIHH (there are surprisingly many this year!). The time display is properly placed on the right side of the dial and the chrono has been replaced by a date and moon-phase. All this drops the list price by 5,000 Euros while it maintains the architecture and so much appreciated finish of the movement. Most of us do not use a chrono anyway so changing that for a more commonly useful complication while dropping the price is nothing but good news.


Navy Seals Automatic: Very clean with a great size and shape for normal wrists. It will be bellow the 6,000 Euro threshold. I like it, but I am not sure why yet.


Memovox International: As discussed in a previous post it is one of the most elegant watches I have seen in a long time. There is something almost mystical about the watch. I have held many Memovoxes yet this one has something special about it. I have had the chance to review this piece before the SIHH and my mind has not changed since then. Here is my previous review...


Extreme World Chrono: The reedition of the Extreme Chrono with a very pleasant hour hand on the chrono. Does not look like a Jaeger but it is a interesting development that I am very curious to see how it does in the stores.



Jaeger leCoultre...

URWERK "203 Razor"

The odometer and 5 year oil change indicator are back! But only for 20 times. The 203 could be seen as a fusion between the 201 and 202. The automatic turbine movement remains the same while the minute bezel and hour satellite have been skeletonized. This gives a better view of the turning dice mechanism as well as making the turning central satellite lighter. The finish is sandblasted platinum with URWERK's already popular PVD-like coating.


To be honest I was not expecting much from URWERK this year. Developing something like the CC1 for a small company like URWERK is simply a titanic task. After this "feat" a small rest would have been understandable. I regard the 203 as a "bridge" model for the future things to come. The next few years at URWERK will be very interesting if not astonishing.

URWERK...

UPDATE: MB&F "HM2-SV"

As commented before here are the pictures of MB & F's "Horological Machine Nº2". A hypnotizing piece this HM2-SV. One of those watches that 90% of the time you look at them you do so without the intention to read the time. You just look at it to admire the architecture of the movement. I reckon that this is not everybody's cup of tea yet being different today is almost a complication in itself.


This is the third (actually fourth counting the Alain Silberstein) of the HM2. Very striking although my favorite remains the HM2 Ceramic version.


I know there are already new developments in the oven at MB & F and can't wait to see what will be presented shortly. I have the feeling that the HM2 has already been interpreted in the correct amounts, anymore would be taking the "OffShore" road. If the HM2 is Büsser's hottest product than it deserver a regular production slot. The problem with Limited Editions is explained in their own definition. They LIMIT your success. I still have hope that the industry will learn this, eventually.



MB & F...

Ralph Lauren: SIHH 2010

I think it better to get the garbage out of the way first. As you can appreciate from the pictures below, RL have given us diamonds on last year's phenomenal effort in imagination horological excellence. I would be vomiting right now but thankfully it has been a while since lunch. Thankfully I prepared myself for this year and they did not manage to cheat me into coming in early in the morning to be presented with this... well, whatever.


Barf...


Barf, barf...


Mega barf...

Here is another prediction; I doubt this will last another season. Looking at last years "appalling" success coupled with this year's additions to the collection I doubt there will be a SIHH 2011 for them. If "Ferrari by Panerai" did not make it past year three this will not go much further.

The countdown is about to begin...

The general feel of the fair is better than last year but with with an emphasis on caution. The Tourbillon is still present but at least it has been relayed to a second or even third line. That is the next best thing next to complete normalization of this complication. Don't get me wrong, I have nothing against the Tourbillon, I just believe that they belong in pocket watches (where they should have never left) or at least brands that are built around that complication. Brands such as Greubel Forsey, Richard Mille or Breguet since it was the original inventor. I have no interest in Tourbillons inside Panerai, Jaeger, AP, Patek, Omega, BlancPain, IWC or Lange. I just feel that these have much more to offer when they do "other" things. Well, interestingly this year is the first since long where the Tourbillon is not the center of attention in all stands. Finally... Now the only cancer in the industry are the Limited Editions.

As to inovation Jaeger takes first place this time in detriment of AP. Panerai take first place when it comes to products that make sense and will be actually selling well. Very smart lineup from their side and contrary to las year the focus was much more on the Radiomir. Thanks for that. Vacheron seems to get its head out of the sand and is aiming straight at Patek with several interesting Patrimonies. IWC, well, not as awful as last year but nothing to loose sleep about. Lange introduced a very cool variation of the "Zeitwerk" with Luminova. Richard Mille and Greubel Forsey are part of the game. About time. AP plays it safe with the "Grand Prix" and introduces two pieces that are not new as far as movements are concerned but are holes that needed to be filled in the Jules Audemars and Royal Oak collections. Ralph Lauren... they are back again. Still don't know why. Montblanc has still the intention to make nice and expensive watches that feel like merchandising. Where and to whom do they sell this stuff? I wish they stuck to pens and gave back Minerva's corporate identity. Cartier surprised me with one piece I would actually consider. Stop, it must be the long hours in a closed hangar! GP is surprisingly not bankrupt yet and still present. Piaget is attempting to recuperate all the lost credit since they gave up on European markets since the 70s'. It is going to take them a while as well as a lot of money. Word of advice; MIKA is not the best image for getting serious collectors back. I still can't figure out Parmigiani. I have no clue as to why Van Cleef, Dunhill and Baume are doing there. Ahhh... and Ferrari has introduced a super stealth model... wait, forgot they where gone. I think I said this would happen in a post I made last year. (I remember getting slammed for predicting that...)

Well, I will start by focusing on the watches that caught my attention. I will try to be as brief as possible. The last post will be dedicated to the watch that in my opinion has been this years star at the show... Wait and see.

Good god... a year already!

It almost feels like yesterday since last year's SIHH. I will be off tomorrow to visits the years first show and in a week from know you will have my thoughts (for what they are worth) on this blog.

There is no doubt in my mind that this year's Fair will be interesting, not from a horological point of view, but rather to see how the sector has reacted to these last years of "complicated" sales. From the first view at the pre-Fair news, the Tourbillon as a means of generating hype and fast cash is indeed dead. Thank god for that. All those years lost in developing ultra complicated and expensive tourbillons while not really doing much on the lower end of the watch spectrum has simply resulted in diminishing the worth of the lower-end and mid-range watches on the price list. Many resources spend and time lost making 200k watches and developments that in most cases will never see the light on regular production models despite claims like; "... we will install this revolutionary escapement in over 80% of our watches regardless of their price range by the end of 2011...." Well, the cited escapement is today only available on a watch in the 200K range. Looks like the intention to upgrade all their movements will not be, at least for now.

The second "cancer" that is slowly eating away at the industry are of course senseless Limited Editions. There is nothing wrong with Limited Edition yet all within measure and quantity. By that I mean that very few should be made and very few editions should see the light. If this is not carefully revised the sales or regular production/collection items will be increasingly harder if not impossible. Incidentally several brands are already taking steps towards ending this nonsense, or at least this is what they have been saying for the last six months. We will know next week if this is so.

Well, I hope that this years SIHH and Time Exhibition shows are not as "grim" as last year. In any case I will keep you posted once I return.

MB&F "HM2-SV"

This is only a sneak preview of what MB&F will present this year.


The HM2-SV will be officially presented on the 12th of January. It is based on the HM2 that I already discuseed in a previous post. It will be limited to 25 pieces to be distributed worldwide. As you can se from the picture the front is saphire glass so I will atach pictures of the regular model.


I will be posting full pictures as soon as they are made available yet for now you just must let your imagination fly...

MB & F...

The "Holly Grail" of Swatches

Little is it known that the largest a most complete Swatch collection resides in Spain. In this "temple" there is not only the watches themselves but all merchandise remotely related to the brand. From matches to the Smart-Swatch car. Displays, phones, jackets, pencils, condoms, beepers, banners, stands... He simply has it all. From having almost four of each Swatch ever produced he also catalogues all "dummies" and variations of dummies (these are the watches that are used on displays and that are not really functional), prototypes, wall clocks, freakish mistakes and even fakes. I have seen many collections of many things in my life but something this extensive and complete NEVER.

Most astonishing is that amongst practically all that Swatch has ever produced there is one that might be king of them all. The "HAI ECK". Know as an urban legend to most Swatch collectors I have had the chance to hold it and shoot it personally.

Now to the story; Apparently this piece was made by an employee of Mr. Hayek some time ago. The dial was made to represent a shark and a corner as you might see from the picture. Translated into german this means "Hai" for shark and "Eck" for corner. Together they pronounce "HAYEK" which incidentally happens to be the last name of the owner. Once presented with this piece, far from being flattered at this tribute of admiration, he felt offended. Little was the artist aware of Mr. Hayek's laking sense of humor. Needles to say the creator of this unique Swatch got sacked. The watch disappeared for a while and resurfaced only to be acquired by this collector.

You wonder; "What else doe he have?" Well, practically everything. Apart from several "Kiki Picasso" more "Mimmo Paladino" he has prototypes that have and will never seen the light. Here are some samples.

Some Kiki Picassos and prototypes...





Some Mimmos...



The Puffs...


More prototypes...




Anyway, this can go on for ever. A full guided tour of the premises takes about 2 to 3 hours. I must say that I find myself very fortunate to count the owner of this incredible collection as my friend. Having the chance to see this is simply a privilege reserved for a fortunate few. I was never a Swatch collector, yet this collection it simply jaw dropping and could hardly be described in its full magnitude. I can't imagine what impact this collection would provoke to a real Swatch collector.

Love/Hate at first sight

This is one of those watches that I never considered at first but once discovered... I must admit it is causing me to loose some sleep lately for two different reasons. The first is that I love the back, the second is that I hate the front. Please take time to look at the pictures of the different movements I am including here. Simply breathtaking. Not only the astonishing finish but the whole architecture and design of the movement. Spectacular. The crown is on the back (one of my favorite features) and on top of that the proportions are just close to heaven. These being 41 millimeters wide and 11.3 millimeters thick. It simply fits most wrists from small-medium to large. The case is of classic conception but has some more modern accents. What a beauty. I am speechless.

Now, once I turn the watch and look at the front I just cry in despair. Awful. (Incidentally, I hope nobody at RG is actually reading this... actually if you are, please skip this chapter and go to the next) I just can't get to understand how this can come to be. Is it just me? I know that I am heavily biased against off-centered dials. However, this one is even worse since it is completely off-balance with nothing south on the dial to compensate. Even the design of the dial says absolutely nothing. Blend and boring... only barely elegant. My question to anybody that waste time reading this blog; Do you like the dial? Please be honest. I am trying to convince myself to get one of these works of art, pretty much like I try to convince myself that the Mona Lisa is actually a beautiful woman. After all these years she still looks to me like a flat-chested chubby woman without eyebrows. As far as art is concerned I was always more impressed by Goya's interpretation of "Saturn devouring one of his sons" than with the "Gioconda", connotations aside. Could this be the same here, could I be the "uneducated insensitive to art caveman" that my wife has been telling me for years? Hmmm, possibly...





The finish of the movement is really something to be very impressed about. One of the most difficult things to produce in handmade movements are sharp angles on bridges and baseplates. There are basically two kinds; outward angle and inward angle. The second of these two being the hardest one. When looking at a movement the way to immediately see if it's handmade is to look for these sharp angles. To date these can only be made by hand. No machine, no mater how expensive, can properly execute such angles. Now, until now I have not seen anybody, I mean anybody, make such a deep inward "anglage" like the guys at Romain Gauthier. By that I include any of the big guns like Lange, AP, L.U.C., Vacheron or Patek. These guys are in fact light years away from such finishes. Yes, these finishes are even above those of Voutilainen, Philippe Dufour and could even challenge the ever magnificent reign of Greubel Forsey. Look at this, judge, sit back and enjoy.

The only thing I am certain of is if Romain Gaultier were indeed one day to center its minutes and hours I would be looking for my piggy bank (life savings) like Jack Nicholson was looking, axe in hand, for his wife in the "Shining".

Romain Gauthier...